I know. The game was in my home until Dec 2017. At that point it was on 5-6 hrs a day for 6 days a week max. Also, more than half of the plays are started games and never played. The light intensity was never changed from the factory settings. Pinstadium lights were added for additional lighting.

This guy knows

Well - just thinking out loud here since you have JJP stumped. I know my game is 7 days younger but has 21 thousand less starts on it. Maybe the battle of GI’s VS pinstadium weakened them?

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I think you should play more

I think what they were talking about was the color tint depending on the type/model/PN/spec of the LED used (although, being an RGB LED I would find that odd, but I'm no expert). If your saying it started out bright white, and then later turned yellowish, that would be pretty strange.

However, this topic is being beat to death, lol. Time for a beer.

I did this as well. The conversion kit is very good.

Can someone tell me what is the proper screw / washer to secure the right side bottom castle wall? I lost my screw and need to order a new one.

LTG any ideas ?

I think this is what your needing - 21e in the pic?
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E022828A-96D4-4F0A-BBC9-BFC8E6D0AFC6 (resized).png

Yes I just need to know what screw goes there... I lost mine.

No idea. I'd try one and see if it fits/works. Screws at hardware stores are cheap, grab some #6 or #8 sheet metal screws in various lengths and see if they work or you need bigger, smaller, shorter, longer.

LTG : )

Naive question (I never had to touch the doors). What are the odds that the right door uses the same screws as the other doors ?

To hold the door to the post? They all use the same screws. It's a M6 or M8 I believe, like a few mm long. I ordered them from JJP since I didn't know the specs, but then someone posted them here (maybe LTG).

The tail end of the smaller YBR lights go from blue to green. Is that normal?

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Same. Check the manual. Page C-37 and C-38. You can download the manual from jerseyjackpinball.com - Support - Downloads - WOZ.

LTG : )

Yes

absolutely

As i said in another thread. Led's are sensitive to voltage drop, and White require The most power.
If lights start to change from White, i would bring my trusty old volt-meter.

The first six inserts in the yellow brick road are colored so yes

Door attachment screws are 6-32 x 1/4 pan head phillips screws black painted

the post to motor shaft are 6-32 x 3/16 (1/4 also work perfectly) black oxide Allen cap screws.

The motor shaft screws in the game are a bit soft. If you get replacements, get case hardened grade 12 if you can.

The manual states 6-32 x 1/8" set screws for the motor shaft to post.

This is incorrect. They were upgraded to Allen screws to get them tighter fitting very early in production, like week 1.

Hello everyone, I am new to the Woz Family. I purchased a Ruby Red edition and loving every minute of it. It was a bumpy road in the beginning with the machine not powering on right, had tons and tons of awesome help from the JJP team and I have to say they are the best. Also had tons of help from fellow Pinside members, great people and very helpful. In the end it turned out to be my house power and all I needed was a dedicated circuit all by its self. Now it plays perfectly. I do have a few questions.

1. I noticed when I am playing a game and the monkey comes down to capture the ball, does the ball stay captured or is it released instantly? Mine the ball is released instantly

2. Ball lock, when the ball is locked or 2 balls locked sometimes it releases a ball out of nowhere when I am playing and then end up with 2 balls. Just wondering if this is normal stuff

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1: What do you mean by released instantly? Is the Monkey not picking up the ball (it should) or is it picking it up and dropping it before it gets up to the lock position in the castle?

2: This is not normal, the only times I get un-intended multiballs, which is rare, is if I have ball(s) locked in the Munchkin lock, lock is not lit and I hit the ramp two balls will escape instead of just one being released due to timing of the lock release mech. If you are randomly having them released from the lock at other times I'd suspect an opto or trough switch (I suddenly can't remember if WOZ uses switches or optos in the trough but I think it's switches) issue. Is it always released from the munchkin lock when this happens?

P.S. Welcome to the club!

Ooooh so close... optos, we were looking for optos in the trough. He's on it - also check your settings to make sure monkey lock isn't set for virtual otherwise the door opens every time the game sees the monkey lock switch behind it. You have a ghosting or doubling opto issue I would guess - hitting some switch triggers ramp ball lock three or some switch that then tricks the lock into thinking an imaginary ball is approaching so it raises the arm to let a ball out and keep the flow going. Tests - switch tests - matrixed and then start touching them by hand - you will find something.

Welcome to the club! I’m sure your issues will be corrected in no time, tons of good and helpful people in this group!

Yes thank you. I had the virtual lock on, i turned it off and now the ball stays locked also I will check the optos, I am sure that’s the issue. Love this pin

Is there a way I can have only one song play on the attract screen when no one is playing?

How can I tell if my game's lighting has been upgraded to 2.0?

Check the manual, LED board layouts are in there for both. You can download the manual from jerseyjackpinball.com

Or look underneath your playfield, two square boards perpendicular to the playfield near each other, one has a bunch of fat light blue ethernet cables running from it to some of the LED boards ?

LTG : )

LED boards and data harnesses on page C-54. 2.0 System and ethernet cables on page E-24

LTG : )

OK....NOW you've crossed the line and you're just askin' too damn much.

This is what 2.0 looks like from under the playfield
https://images.pinside.com/b/4c/48/b4c482e639ad1339751db557e80494b7bd3ce1c5.jpg

I keep hearing this as the way to tell, and it was told to me as well. Everything here is correct except one thing. Don't count on the fact that the ethernet cables are blue. Mine are all grey.. Straight from JJP as I bought it NIB from them near the end of the run. But everything else is right and the boards all have 2.0 printed on them as well.

Quick question... Considering a RR built in 2015, but I'm concerned that it doesn't have the 2.0 light kit.

Will it eventually need replacing?

Likely at some point you will need to replace a board. Some have better luck, others not so much. I used to have a handful of the GI boards fail every winter when the air started getting dry and staticky. I also had a couple of the larger boards fail. I eventually did the 2.0 upgrade. It is not too bad to do, just time consuming. If you can get a RR for a decent price and are willing to do the upgrade, I would go for it.

I figured that would be the answer.

Not sure I want to run that risk. Maybe I'll hold off for a later build with the 2.0 upgrade.

If the price accommodates $800 and your time to install, then it's a good deal. Otherwise don't bother.

I haven't had any issue on my 7,5v buffered boards for a year now, so I decided to not take the risk, spend the time and the money for now. It's empirical but I really tend to think there was some randomness in batches more than issues on the design.

Same here

I had exactly the same concerns a couple of months ago before I bought mine.
In the UK I could have spent literally years waiting for a 2.0 upgraded game to appear for sale. So I pitched for a very early run standard editon (27/1000) it has all original 5v boards. So far no issues. I purchased the JJP 2.0 kit and it sits under the machine like a giant £700 paper weight juuuuuuuust in case I ever need it. Must be mad but WOZ is no ordinary game. Buy one, enjoy it, if it breaks buy the upgrade kit and fix it. Life is too short to worry about things that might not happen.

Fellas, any ideas please what’s wrong with my crystal ball?... I bought my Pinball about 3 weeks ago(I’m new in your Club and this is my 1st JJP), sometimes while playing the game the crystal ball is fixed by itself, but usually I just have to restart the game to fix that.

Thank you.

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Welcome

Try re-seating the connector on the back of the CB.

Hi Sir I emailed Andrew yesterday explaining the peculiarities of the crystal ball (understanding of which becomes second nature after awhile, much like the bank door ramp stopper on Monopoly).

I just joined the club and got my WOZ (pictures to come) yesterday. I posted under just tech, however thought this may be a better place to post my current challenge with it. I almost have it dialed in perfect, however I have been experiencing a couple of issues with the ball lock. The first thing that I noticed, is the ball lock releasing a 2nd ball when it is not multiball. My question on this is exactly how do you suggest I set the timing? there are 3 ball lock options in settings, who's default is 250. Do I leave ball one timing alone and only adjust the other two? Do I want the numbers higher or lower to try and get it not to release a 2nd ball? Do I need to drop my pitch? Just trying to troubleshoot.

The other odd challenge is when I get "there is no place like home" and there is a ball in the ball lock it will release it into play(before starting there is no place like home). if I drain that ball i do not receive there is no place like home. This has happened a couple times so not sure why or what is telling it to release the ball during there is no place like home.

Thanks in advance for any and all assistance!

The ball lock settings are individual to each game.

The numbers represent how long the arm is suspended up above the balls in milliseconds.

The 3 settings are how long the arm stays up with 1 or 2 or three balls already present in lockup.

Its very common for a ball to escape once in awhile.

On my game its the second ball always with one ball in lockup. You hit the ramp with a 3rd ball and one ball is released but once in while a second ball will escape.

Adjusting the 2nd ball lock setting can help. But if its infrequent, the ball escapes are considered normal.

If you dont have the patience or time to make fine adjustments, virtual locks are provided in the service menu to bypass the mechanical locks.

Thank you for this quick and thorough response! It seems to happen everytime when two balls are locked up so I will look to mess with the settings however it's great to know I can move it to virtual locks if I get impatient enough

Try setting Ball lock 1 to 235.
Ball lock 2 to 255, Ball lock 3 to 250.
Helped mine.

Thank you both again as I was able to fix the ball releasing challenge by entering in the lower settings!!! No the only thing left that is odd is when I get there is no place like home and there is a ball in the lock it is released... so odd. I am ok with this for now as I do not get there is no place like home but maybe once a game

I have been trying to join this club for the last month or so. I’ve been on the hunt for a Woz Standard NIB with 2.0 boards and think after yesterday I have exhausted all distributors in US/Canada. A few distributor websites still have listed for sale (and in stock) on their websites and after putting in your cart to purchase or inquiring through email I’ve been getting the “Sorry Out of stock” message. Bummer. I think it is safe to say that the Standard Editions are sold out everywhere despite some sites stock listings saying otherwise. If you are a distributor and reading this PM me if you have in stock.

Mike at Automated has some

Thanks for the lead, I will check that out-

Doubt you want something used but I have one for sale.