(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 16 minutes ago by Pinballomatic
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#7701 52 days ago

Almost impossible is too strong but it can be tricky for sure. In my experience the weakest spot to get consistent hits is dead center as you say. You did try working the sliders underneath right? I mean loosening the nuts and moving the switch brackets? That can be the answer more than bending switch actuators. Behind the bash plate (I call it that - the thing that gets struck by the Ball) are springs that can resist against its moving and keep it from getting stuck back too far. Behind the front strike plate there are two places where it attaches to the bracket through two parallel holes and the spring keeps it straight and absorbs the impact of the Ball but it still needs to push the switch actuators open - think of it as a more elegant version of the safe on Sopranos where the impact from the front tries to push the metal “flags” into and thereby close the microswitch actuators which are normally open. This is the reverse with normally closed switches having their arms pushed away. So it’s a bit counterintuitive in a way. I’m just glad the same mechanism didn’t end up on the Hobbit production model as it was supposed to most of the way through the design process. Anyway, it’s certainly doable. The last software version but one also changed the de-bounce (if that’s right - need Keefer) timing so if your witch was for lack of a better term dialed in before, and then you updated to 6.60 (I think), it might no longer be perfect.

#7702 52 days ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Almost impossible is too strong but it can be tricky for sure. In my experience the weakest spot to get consistent hits is dead center as you say. You did try working the sliders underneath right? I mean loosening the nuts and moving the switch brackets? That can be the answer more than bending switch actuators. Behind the bash plate (I call it that - the thing that gets struck by the Ball) are springs that can resist against its moving and keep it from getting stuck back too far. Behind the front strike plate there are two places where it attaches to the bracket through two parallel holes and the spring keeps it straight and absorbs the impact of the Ball but it still needs to push the switch actuators open - think of it as a more elegant version of the safe on Sopranos where the impact from the front tries to push the metal “flags” into and thereby close the microswitch actuators which are normally open. This is the reverse with normally closed switches having their arms pushed away. So it’s a bit counterintuitive in a way. I’m just glad the same mechanism didn’t end up on the Hobbit production model as it was supposed to most of the way through the design process. Anyway, it’s certainly doable. The last software version but one also changed the de-bounce (if that’s right - need Keefer) timing so if your witch was for lack of a better term dialed in before, and then you updated to 6.60 (I think), it might no longer be perfect.

Yeah, I should have noted that I loosened the nuts and slid the switches back and forth a good bit last night. I'm going to try it all again tonight.

I bought the game last weekend and noted that the witch target rarely if ever worked. Then diagnostics reported the switches as bad. So I dug into it last night and found them to be poorly adjusted, I assume from the factory.

I'm running 6.60 (I think, definitely not 7.x). I guess I just need to keep tinkering tonight. I'll be honest in saying it's a little disappointing that they witch switch isn't more consistent, as it seems to be an integral part of gameplay.

Other than that, I'm starting to get my game dialed in (ha). My state fair pop still seems to lack umph, so maybe I'll bump it up a bit in settings. But otherwise, things seem to be working. And man, what a game. I'm a die hard TZ fan, but I'm really enjoying WOZ. Seems like it'll keep me entertained for a few years...

#7703 52 days ago

Keith's prototype WOZ is sitting in a TZ cabinet. To quote a semi-famous person, Pat L on a bad day is worth a drawer full of anyone else.

#7704 52 days ago

Weird, two WoZ here right now and I've had many castle door issues but never any witch issues. Similar situation, switch fine tuning.

#7705 51 days ago
Quoted from PinJim:

Venting here more than anything. I spent over an hour last night trying to fine tune the witch target, and still it is not consistent. I tried bending the arms a bit on the switches, and then took to bending the brackets a bit. I thought I had it right only to realize that using my finger to activate the switch was different than using the ball, which apparently hits higher. So back to adjusting. Still, after an hour, it is very inconsistent. I can nail it dead center and it doesn't register. Sides seem to work a little better.
I feel like it's almost impossible to make it reliable. Please tell me I'm wrong....

I feel your pain. Someone needs to redesign this.

#7706 51 days ago
Quoted from fnosm:

I feel your pain. Someone needs to redesign this.

I ended up redesigning the castle door switch triggers. They were just geometrically designed in a weird way that caused them to take way more pressure to close than needed. In fact, the switches used were probably a bad choice and the position was definitely poor. With some simple tweaks to layout I reduced the pressure needed by a lot and made it much easier to adjust the door springs properly.

I've replaced some parts on the witch but not touched the switches. Wondering if there is a simple fix that can help relocate those switches in a way that will allow for easier setup/triggering. I can take a look if no one else does.

12
#7707 51 days ago

Finally joining the club today, after a very long wait...

WOZECLE (resized).jpg
#7708 51 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I ended up redesigning the castle door switch triggers. They were just geometrically designed in a weird way that caused them to take way more pressure to close than needed. In fact, the switches used were probably a bad choice and the position was definitely poor. With some simple tweaks to layout I reduced the pressure needed by a lot and made it much easier to adjust the door springs properly.
I've replaced some parts on the witch but not touched the switches. Wondering if there is a simple fix that can help relocate those switches in a way that will allow for easier setup/triggering. I can take a look if no one else does.

I wonder if you can retrofit optos like on the YBR edition.

#7709 51 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I've replaced some parts on the witch but not touched the switches. Wondering if there is a simple fix that can help relocate those switches in a way that will allow for easier setup/triggering. I can take a look if no one else does.

I'm going to dig into mine more tonight, but it sure seems like a bad design. I'd be game if someone came up with a better target / switch setup.

#7710 51 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I wonder if you can retrofit optos like on the YBR edition.

With the witch or castle doors? They are basic micro switches on the castle doors so if you can send the same signal with optos (which I have no idea) then it would seem possible. I wonder if the overall mech has changed to accomodate, maybe we can get a pic from someone (fat chance, taking off the Castle PF is a pain). I thought the new design was one door, as well. So likely it all changed.

#7711 51 days ago

I didn't ever see a video of the color changing LED in the coin door, here it is:

I also tried some different colors in my POTC door:

Blue spot compared with OEM
0530191531 (resized).jpg

Blue spot with brighter blue spot
0530191532 (resized).jpg

Blue spot with green spot
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Blue spot with bright white spot
0530191536 (resized).jpg

OEM with bright white
0530191536a (resized).jpg

OEM with bright purple
0530191537 (resized).jpg
0530191539 (resized).jpg

#7712 51 days ago

I dedicated another 30 minutes to the witch switches tonight. Here’s what I did.

First, I bent the brackets back into their original condition. Then I loosened the switch plate nuts and played in switch test mode a bit. More or less, the switches did not default to closed all of the time, even with the switch plates as close to the target plate as possible. It’s as though the target plate doesn’t rest in a consistent position.

Next, I bent the switch arms a bit. Back into switch test mode. Even after bending the arms, I can’t get it dialed in. I observed the target plate actuator arms when using a ball to push on the playfield side of the target plate, and they actually push on the target switches, as opposed to opening them. And then sometimes they would open but never close the switches. Frustrating. So in short, the whole system seems inconsistent.

I suppose the situation is better, but not right. I played a few games, sipped some burbon, and the switch target registered about half of the hits. That’s about 50% below my expectations. Ha.

Has anyone made theirs more reliable? I’m an engineer at heart so I want it to be 100%. I’m losing faith. I don’t want it t be a deal killer with me and the game, but it factors into things. Short of that switch, the game is bad ass. But it bothers me...

Anyone else got theirs working better than 50%?

#7713 51 days ago
Quoted from PinJim:

Anyone else got theirs working better than 50%?

I’ve been following your witch switch problem. Saying to myself, “yeah, That was the same with mine” the whole time. My witch switch didn’t work well for a while, 6 months or so, and I didn’t look into it. Just put up with it and added it to the list of pinball “things to do”. Then a more important audio problem occurred and was traced to output from the motherboard that I subsequently had to replace. After replacement and full game reset, I haven’t had the issue with the witch switch. It plays 100% now. I know it doesn’t specifically help and it’s weird, but that’s what happened to me, FWIW.

#7714 51 days ago
Quoted from PinJim:

I dedicated another 30 minutes to the witch switches tonight. Here’s what I did.
First, I bent the brackets back into their original condition. Then I loosened the switch plate nuts and played in switch test mode a bit. More or less, the switches did not default to closed all of the time, even with the switch plates as close to the target plate as possible. It’s as though the target plate doesn’t rest in a consistent position.
Next, I bent the switch arms a bit. Back into switch test mode. Even after bending the arms, I can’t get it dialed in. I observed the target plate actuator arms when using a ball to push on the playfield side of the target plate, and they actually push on the target switches, as opposed to opening them. And then sometimes they would open but never close the switches. Frustrating. So in short, the whole system seems inconsistent.
I suppose the situation is better, but not right. I played a few games, sipped some burbon, and the switch target registered about half of the hits. That’s about 50% below my expectations. Ha.
Has anyone made theirs more reliable? I’m an engineer at heart so I want it to be 100%. I’m losing faith. I don’t want it t be a deal killer with me and the game, but it factors into things. Short of that switch, the game is bad ass. But it bothers me...
Anyone else got theirs working better than 50%?

How are the springs? Have you tried stretching them out or getting new one? Maybe they are too collapsed.

I know the mechanism is different but the spring is the crux of the situation with the castle doors. Even if I take the springs that JJP supplied me new, the switches they supplied me new and using new motors they supplied me the doors were FAR from even working. I had to tweak and tweak to get them to work properly. There isn't even an adjustment for the switch position there like there is on the witch. There has to be enough tension in the spring to close the door fully and overcome the switch pressure but slack enough that the motor can overcome the spring tension to open the door. Oddly, the motors aren't that strong and so there is a very narrow margin in which they will actually open.

#7715 51 days ago

I got around to installing the PinGraffix side art decals on my RR yesterday. Super nice mod, though a bit nerve racking to install and need to be very careful not to damage them. This is still the prettiest game out there IMO.

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#7716 51 days ago
Quoted from darkryder:

I got around to installing the PinGraffix side art decals on my RR yesterday. Super nice mod, though a bit nerve racking to install and need to be very careful not to damage them. This is still the prettiest game out there IMO.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Wow those do look nice. I have ZERO confidence I would not destroy them.

#7717 51 days ago
Quoted from SDpinballer:

I’ve been following your witch switch problem. Saying to myself, “yeah, That was the same with mine” the whole time. My witch switch didn’t work well for a while, 6 months or so, and I didn’t look into it. Just put up with it and added it to the list of pinball “things to do”. Then a more important audio problem occurred and was traced to output from the motherboard that I subsequently had to replace. After replacement and full game reset, I haven’t had the issue with the witch switch. It plays 100% now. I know it doesn’t specifically help and it’s weird, but that’s what happened to me, FWIW.

Odd. Did you change software versions at the same time?

#7718 51 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

How are the springs? Have you tried stretching them out or getting new one? Maybe they are too collapsed.
I know the mechanism is different but the spring is the crux of the situation with the castle doors. Even if I take the springs that JJP supplied me new, the switches they supplied me new and using new motors they supplied me the doors were FAR from even working. I had to tweak and tweak to get them to work properly. There isn't even an adjustment for the switch position there like there is on the witch. There has to be enough tension in the spring to close the door fully and overcome the switch pressure but slack enough that the motor can overcome the spring tension to open the door. Oddly, the motors aren't that strong and so there is a very narrow margin in which they will actually open.

I'm sure there are springs somewhere on the mech, as is somewhat snaps back into place. But I did not see them last night. Then again, the bourbon took effect so maybe I missed them. I'll look again today. That switch will not win!

#7719 50 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Wow those do look nice. I have ZERO confidence I would not destroy them.

Pull the playfield out, much easier to install them.

#7720 50 days ago

Installed mine last week. Not easy leaving the playfield in but doable. Came out nice.

2019-05-31 09.07.27 (resized).jpg2019-05-31 09.07.42 (resized).jpg
#7721 50 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Pull the playfield out, much easier to install them.

It's not that, it's the repeated pulling out of the playfield. I've hit the sides of my cabinet too many times with the playfield to know those would stay looking good. At least with the black sides I can touch it up. I am going to install some felt on the sides of my playfield to see how that works out, so maybe with some protection it might be ok. I love the look.

Anyone have some mirror blade shots?

#7722 50 days ago

Another question. The lights circled below are off in color from the rest of the lights - at least during game play. You can somewhat see it in the picture, but it's more pronounced in person. What's odd is that they are fine if I illuminate them in diagnostics. It's just during game play. Like they aren't rendering the mixing of colors like the rest of the lights.

Is this normal, or (I'm guessing) something's wrong with my machine?

lights (resized).jpg
#7723 50 days ago
Quoted from PinJim:

Another question. The lights circled below are off in color from the rest of the lights - at least during game play. You can somewhat see it in the picture, but it's more pronounced in person. What's odd is that they are fine if I illuminate them in diagnostics. It's just during game play. Like they aren't rendering the mixing of colors like the rest of the lights.
Is this normal, or (I'm guessing) something's wrong with my machine?[quoted image]

They are the proper color in the LED test for all colors? (W, R, G, B)

Which LED board version do you have?

#7724 50 days ago
Quoted from PinJim:

The lights circled below are off in color from the rest of the lights -

The first six inserts are yellow. Every other insert in clear.

So the first six often look different.

LTG : )

#7725 50 days ago
Quoted from PinJim:

Another question. The lights circled below are off in color from the rest of the lights - at least during game play. You can somewhat see it in the picture, but it's more pronounced in person. What's odd is that they are fine if I illuminate them in diagnostics. It's just during game play. Like they aren't rendering the mixing of colors like the rest of the lights.
Is this normal, or (I'm guessing) something's wrong with my machine?[quoted image]

Which LED boards do you have? What version of WOZ software are you running?

#7726 50 days ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Which LED boards do you have? What version of WOZ software are you running?

What ever he has is good. The first six inserts that are yellow is throwing him off.

LTG : )

#7727 50 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

What ever he has is good. The first six inserts that are yellow is throwing him off.
LTG : )

Ah interesting I never noticed that on mine hah.

Something to note, when I first installed 7.01, it seemed fine and after a day or two the LEDs were "off". In tests they all worked as expected, but during games they would not light or would be the wrong color etc. Reinstall of 7.01 fixed it right up and it had worked fine ever since. Figured I'd mention in case anyone else had this.

This was with 2.0 boards, so it was something with the update.

#7728 50 days ago

Thanks all. I’m running 6.61 and the LEDs work fine in all of the test modes, well, except white. I didn’t notice that white shows as slightly yellow for those lights. And yeah, now I see that those inserts are in fact yellow. Thanks LTG!

Now if I could only get my witch switch fixed.

#7729 50 days ago
Quoted from PinJim:

Now if I could only get my witch switch fixed.

Maybe this will help.

LTG : )

Loosen the nuts circled in RED allowing you to move the switches closer to the plate. Reach around the lifted playfield and tap the strike plate while moving the swiches closer. When you have the sensitivity you want, just tighten the nuts back down.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/89824152@N07/sets/72157634995600921/

#7730 50 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Wow those do look nice. I have ZERO confidence I would not destroy them.

These things rule, slap em on and lift the playfield to your heart's content!

https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html

#7731 50 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Anyone have some mirror blade shots?

They can rub but haven’t scratched yet

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#7732 50 days ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

These things rule, slap em on and lift the playfield to your heart's content!
https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html

How exactly do those work? They look temporary (like you put them there when you lift the playfield?). And the magnets are there just to hold them in place while you do work on the playfield? Interesting..

#7733 50 days ago
Quoted from mountaingamer:

They can rub but haven’t scratched yet[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice, I was wondering what they looked like on WOZ. I like the other blades better

#7734 50 days ago

Someone make a new munchkin hut!

#7735 50 days ago

Back to WOZ
My YBR #110 arrives this week
And has good company waiting[quoted image]

Congratulations!

Are you going to place the YBR besides your Emerald...

#7736 50 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

How exactly do those work? They look temporary (like you put them there when you lift the playfield?). And the magnets are there just to hold them in place while you do work on the playfield?

Pretty much exactly like that

#7737 50 days ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Pretty much exactly like that

Thanks. Considering those for sure. Especially since I'm considering the pingraffix.

#7738 50 days ago

I've had my pingraffix on my WOZ for over 2 years and been under the hood tons of times. Never had a problem with the art scratching or rubbing off FWIW.

#7739 50 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Nice, I was wondering what they looked like on WOZ. I like the other blades better

That was from my ECLE - they look way better on the RR

#7740 50 days ago
Quoted from mountaingamer:

That was from my ECLE - they look way better on the RR

HAH... I just played YBR a bunch at the NW Pin Show and they look awesome. I have them in my cart... of course pingraffix has stuff for other games I own so now I am contemplating spending more of my retirement funds lol.

#7741 50 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

How exactly do those work? They look temporary (like you put them there when you lift the playfield?). And the magnets are there just to hold them in place while you do work on the playfield? Interesting..

You gotta have them these days.
I have 3 sets. They live inside the games.

I pull them out always and slide them on before working on any game.

No Nick's, no scratches in the black paint, no tearing of the side art.

They are a must have, and you have to develop the habit of using them.

So I got multiple sets to always have them on hand.

#7743 49 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Wow those do look nice. I have ZERO confidence I would not destroy them.

Lol, yeah, I’ve torn and crinkled more of these $80 decals than I can recall. I screwed up 4 sets in a row on different games one day, but now I’m getting better at installing them wet and keeping the playfield and metal slide/support bracket things from tearing into them. Super happy i didn’t mess up these WOZ decals

#7744 49 days ago
Quoted from avspin:

Installed mine last week. Not easy leaving the playfield in but doable. Came out nice.[quoted image][quoted image]

Fellas because I’m new in WOZ, I have a question please...

Is this is a MOD lightning the State Fair, or all the RR they come with this standard?

6020B81C-CDA6-4442-BC90-C17A7F009B1F (resized).jpeg

Mine doesn’t have that nice light...

B9D0A1EE-B652-4C29-85C8-F944E1B2B150 (resized).jpeg

#7745 49 days ago
Quoted from Rolls-Royce:

Is this is a MOD lightning the State Fair,

It's an aftermarket mod.

LTG : )

#7746 49 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

It's an aftermarket mod.
LTG : )

Thank you very much LTG!

#7747 49 days ago

Has anyone replaced the decals on the backbox? Mine had a scratch and I got replacements but wanted to know the proper way to do it. on a side note my POTC CE coming Wednesday! Will look great next to WOZ RR. I love JJP! I just hope they dont make another pin for a while. Im overwhelmed

#7748 49 days ago

Does anyone know the size of the fan in the side of the CPU case? Or have a suggestion on a replacement on Amazon? That thing is loud as heck. Hard to get a tape measure down there.

#7749 49 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Does anyone know the size of the fan in the side of the CPU case? Or have a suggestion on a replacement on Amazon? That thing is loud as heck. Hard to get a tape measure down there.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/52#post-3425897

#7750 49 days ago

Ok... first of all, how do you find these things so quickly? I searched and couldn't find it, maybe I'm not proficient at searching here.

Second.. did you find any posts where someone did the fan replacement? I was hoping maybe someone had good results with a fan, I saw some "I like these fans" but not where someone actually did it. I guess I'll get just something with similar CFM and low DBs.

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