In my opinion. Get black knight SoR.

I just unboxed an LE.
Man what a game.

It's a William's game through and through.

Does not in any way play like a stern.

Really an amazing game.

Are you suggesting it is on part with the JJP games posted?

This is already coming I mean after that I have room for one more

I would get POTC, bird in hand and all, it could be some time before TS comes out (assuming that ends up being the one?) you can always sell it down the road.

It better than JJP POTC and Wonka.

Probably the best stern ever made.

Probably because it's a Williams game lol.

Great innovation and use of mechanical locks.

Great use of the Knight, you really feel the battle is real.

Great use and integration of the LCD screen.

Deep immersive gamrplay.

It's a winner.

Wow... can't wait to play it then. So many people love POTC, would be interesting to see what you think is a better game.

Play an LE, I was impressed with the build quality and features.

Plus it still felt like black knight only better on so many levels.

I have 2 JJP games and am not impressed with the last 2 offerings.

I'm a bit jaded like many others.

Black Knight SoR, impressed me.

I was never a fan, I'm a DMD-era guy so that's a bit of a tough sell, but I'm interested in what Stern has done as I like many of their newer games.

My castle playfield flipper is rubbing the castle wall. Anyone else seen this? The flipper is weak too. I’m guessing I’ll need to remove the castle playfield to see what’s going on underneath it. Ugh....

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Ironically that was one piece I didn't remove in my recent teardown. I would assume there is nothing to see on the flipper itself, I doubt the bushing is worn enough that the position of the flipper changed. I'd remove that piece of wall and see if it is mounted properly or if I can be moved slightly.

Loosen the screw holding the wall, pull the wall away, retighten the screw. I’ve seen that work often.

That seemed to help some.

I suspect there’s a deep issue with the flipper. The game has around 650 plays on it so in theory the flipper bushing isn’t bad, but the flipper is very weak. I noticed that that the linkage was connected too low on the flipper shaft so there was a lot of slop. You can adjust that without removing the playfield, which I did. Still though, the flipper feels weak. I’ll pull the playfield when I have a few free hours...

I assume you bumped up the coil power setting and that didn’t help? Default is 10 or 12 but mine works perfectly on 9. YMMV

Any adjustments or repairs to the castle Playfield flipper require removing the castle Playfield.

Fortunately removal of the castle Playfield is a simple task follow the instructions in the manual exactly. It takes about 10 minutes to remove.

I had to rebuild flippers on my original game at about 650 plays.

Well this seems like it could be an issue soon.

Have new assemblies on order from Marco.

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Mine comes super close to the wall but doesn't touch it, see picture below. I think you need to dremmel the wall a bit. As to the weakness of the flipper although my case is different, I had the same issue to the point where the bat would stay stuck up. It got sorted out once I levelled the playfield correctly. I was off of 1 degree, at 5.5 instead of 6.5.

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I think he is worried about where it is cracked.

LTG : )

Ayup. Didn't you know Joseph is a flipper assembly master now?

So please forgive my ignorance, I’ve never owned a JJP before. But, in poking around tonight, I found that a lot of the coil strengths had been reduced. Such was the case for the castle flipper. I returned it to default and voila, it works fine.

The lower main flippers were reduced. Various VUKs, the sling by the roller over lanes, etc. I assume people leave coils at the default value? Just found it odd that so many had been reduced...

WOZ (Or JJPs in general, I only have one), is quite sensitive to ac power, I reduced all the flippers and vuks coil power when I first got it, balls were flying everywhere. Then I bought a power rectifier and put them back to their standard settings. This could be why yours were reduced.

Not everybody has the same power. Previous home for your game may have had higher voltage power and yours may be lower voltage.

Which is why you can adjust coils on WOZ. Even the factory can be different from your house.

LTG : )

Without looking at the schematic, I assume a transformer steps down the AC, which is the rectified and smoothed via caps. And the resulting DC power is used for coils? Just seems like a 5VAC difference at the wall would be negligible by the time it gets to the flippers? Then again, you are LTG.....and I’ve been reading your posts since way back in the rgp days. So no disrespect meant. Back in those days I read damn near every post. So much was learned from reading that newsgroup...

To be fair, I find the lower flippers to be too strong at default power. But the castle playfield flipper was set at 7, and had very little umph.

What is a power rectifier? I know what a bridge rectifier is, but I’m guessing you are talking about something different?

My bad english ! I'm using this, and it sorted out my AC power issues.

https://www.apc.com/shop/us/en/products/Line-R-1200VA-Automatic-Voltage-Regulator/P-LE1200

I find I have to adjust the power to the coils at different points during the year. When it is hot out, and the AC is running full blast, the coils seem a bit weaker, so they get turned up. In the winter, it is the opposite.

A variac

Flippers and the high voltage system is unregulated as far as power goes.

Dont ask why, it's just always been done that way.

Low voltage is regulated.

Wall current has a big affect on the high voltage system.

Build quality? Metal back box ? Exterior bolts ? Ace hardware lockdown bar ?
Or the cheesy folding speaker panel ?

To appreciate build quality in my mind
Completely you need to restore a game
And a few playfield swaps or 50 ! Then you get a better perspective on what exactly build quality is. Stern games (some) are fun but if a game can’t be put on route and pay for itself before it’s ready for land fill then it’s junk ! Just saying

Not bashing your BK

Back to WOZ
My YBR #110 arrives this week
And has good company waiting

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So this error message just started appearing when my monkey started to stop half way down to grab the ball and go back up. I cannot for the life of me locate this switch.

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On the back side of the back wall of the playfield. Small circuit board with two screws and a couple wires to it, that plug into a connector nearby. Reseat it, and be sure it is plugged in. See the playfield magnet post in the rear lane of the playfield ? It's is striaght back from that on the other side of the wall.

In Tests - Devices, there is a monkey sense switch test.

LTG : )

Heres a pic of it on mine when I was having a problem. Only one screw in it here.

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Page C-70 in the manual switch #6

LTG : )

Here's another pic of it with cable disconnected. The sense switch is closest to the motor side.
It probably, like mine, moved left or right.
I also only had one screw in mine. Fixed now.

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Yup, you nailed it. Big thanks @LTG @Ericpinballfan Thanks for the pics u guys rock.

Holy shit when one issue is fixed another is close behind
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EDIT: These errors are inconsistent. Sometimes they appear on boot, sometimes they do not.

Did you follow that sense switch back to the board and bump something else?
Just thinking out loud.

Munchkinland loop upper is the top house playfield rollover and is not a guarantee to be hit especially if novice players play. Test switch tests matrix switch tests and roll the ball around the house and see if it works. If it does error will go away.

Here’s a simple, cheap mod of the illuminated winkie target mod - what do you guys think? Going to bed but can post details tomorrow if there’s interest.

I’d love to know more.

In case anyone is interested, it was the magnet sense board. $9.95 US from JJP direct (+ shipping). While waiting for that to arrive I also decided to try and repair the board so replaced the Hall Effect Sensor (OH090U) (around $3 to $5 each) and it works like a charm

Not sure the method used above but here is what I did for the winky lightup target switch, just updated my lighting development thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/documenting-custom-woz-lighting-upgrade-kit#post-5018064

Ok WOZ fans - here’s a install video of my lighted Winkie mod mod. Again, the lighted Winkie target is awesome, but being lit up all the time - even when the target is down just doesn’t feel factory. It’s pretty simple if you can solder and shop a pin, and fully reversible back to stock.

Nice! I actually don't have the proper mount for the switch in my game so I didn't think of that. I finally have the right pieces to mount the original switch properly.

Thanks Harry - you motivated me dude! Next up is attacking the starmap backboard on Pirates.

HA... already in process
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/would-anyone-be-interested-in-replacement-star-map-plastic-for-jjpotc

Waiting on test parts to be delivered.

Venting here more than anything. I spent over an hour last night trying to fine tune the witch target, and still it is not consistent. I tried bending the arms a bit on the switches, and then took to bending the brackets a bit. I thought I had it right only to realize that using my finger to activate the switch was different than using the ball, which apparently hits higher. So back to adjusting. Still, after an hour, it is very inconsistent. I can nail it dead center and it doesn't register. Sides seem to work a little better.

I feel like it's almost impossible to make it reliable. Please tell me I'm wrong....