Wizard of Oz
Jersey Jack, 2013
Wizard of Oz (Yellow Brick Road LE)
Jersey Jack, 2019I bought mine in August last year. I was talking with the JJP tech guys (for my DI) and asked about getting one. I was told they don't have anymore there but gave me a couple of distributors that had. I was told to make sure they were 2.0. They also said if I wait they would be running more at the end of the year. I did't want to wait so I bought then. But looking back, they may have been referring to the YBR version.
Quoted from avspin:Just took this screen shot now.
[quoted image]
Thanks I see that now. Totally missed it. I know distributors were told by JJP that the 1500 limit was removed. Curious if there are any in the wild that are over number 1500. Distributors were also told more will be made later this year.
Quoted from bobukcat:It is supposed to tell the game if the ball was actually captured by the PF magnet so the Monkey can pick it up, they are difficult to get adjusted just right and at some point long ago they changed the code to just act like it captures it even if it doesn't so it's not that important anymore.
Ah great thanks for that mate.
So if the ball doesnt make it round to the magnet and the monkey comes down anyway and goes back empty handed,
How do you relight the capture Dorothy magnet again? The flying monkey targets seem to remain lit.
Apologies for dumb questions. I still haven’t got a clue how to play the game, nevermind figure out if mechs and working as they should!
Quoted from f3honda4me:Thanks I see that now. Totally missed it. I know distributors were told by JJP that the 1500 limit was removed. Curious if there are any in the wild that are over number 1500. Distributors were also told more will be made later this year.
I think JJP removing the limit is not true. If they remove the limit they would be opening themselves up to a huge lawsuit. They may have been talking about it last year and decided then to make a new version to avoid the legalities.
When I bought mine I didn't know of the limit, just wanted one based on aesthetics compared to the green one. Played both at Golden State and the wife wanted the red one so that was that.
The number itself doesn't mean anything as far as production. There is a roll of numbers and they just grab one for each machine. So mine is 1460 made Feb 2017. I'm pretty sure it wasn't one of the last at that point.
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:Ah great thanks for that mate.
So if the ball doesnt make it round to the magnet and the monkey comes down anyway and goes back empty handed,
How do you relight the capture Dorothy magnet again? The flying monkey targets seem to remain lit.
Apologies for dumb questions. I still haven’t got a clue how to play the game, nevermind figure out if mechs and working as they should!
It will just act like it locked the ball anyway and Dorothy is still considered captured so you can start Rescue MB like normal. When you start it an additional ball will be ejected to compensate for the one that want physically locked. Read the rulesheet on Tilt forums or watch @pinball_keefers excellent tutorial on YouTube (Road to SWOTR) for help with gameplay questions.
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:Ah great thanks for that mate.
So if the ball doesnt make it round to the magnet and the monkey comes down anyway and goes back empty handed,
How do you relight the capture Dorothy magnet again? The flying monkey targets seem to remain lit.
Apologies for dumb questions. I still haven’t got a clue how to play the game, nevermind figure out if mechs and working as they should!
If the ball is too slow to make the magnet in time.
The monkey goes about half way then returns to the castle.
This is normal.
Thank you all so much for the replies. I feel much better now. It’s really isn’t a big deal then at all. The game just compensates.
On a side note, my standard edition 27/1000 has a clear coated cabinet. I thought these were reserved for the ECLE’s. My friend has something in the 800’s/1000 and his doesn’t have the clear coat.
Quoted from avspin:I think JJP removing the limit is not true. If they remove the limit they would be opening themselves up to a huge lawsuit. They may have been talking about it last year and decided then to make a new version to avoid the legalities.
When I bought mine I didn't know of the limit, just wanted one based on aesthetics compared to the green one. Played both at Golden State and the wife wanted the red one so that was that.
The number itself doesn't mean anything as far as production. There is a roll of numbers and they just grab one for each machine. So mine is 1460 made Feb 2017. I'm pretty sure it wasn't one of the last at that point.
Yeah, sounds a bit odd.. that also they would compete with themselves in launching a new version and then providing more of an older version. Maybe they haven't made all 1500?
Quoted from harryhoudini:Yeah, sounds a bit odd.. that also they would compete with themselves in launching a new version and then providing more of an older version. Maybe they haven't made all 1500?
Not really competing with themselves. JJP is targeting different buyers with the YBR.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Yeah, sounds a bit odd.. that also they would compete with themselves in launching a new version and then providing more of an older version. Maybe they haven't made all 1500?
I thought there was an interview were Jack said they had sold all 1500 but I can't find it at the moment so I could be mistaken.
Me again 
Ok, so I sorted the hall sensor by zip tieing it in the loom just above the magnet. Works a charm. Can’t sway in to anything to risk a short.
In other news, I noticed that occasionally when I started mutiball, the balls wouldn’t release. It would do a ball search forever but never realease the balls from the lock. In coil test the lock coil wouldn’t work. I had to remove the glass and manually lift it. Then it would work ok for a bit, then do the same.
Luckily I removed the glass quickly to investigate as I touched the coil it was red hot and then started to smoke.
I was in coil test at the time and it suddenly started lifting and dropping as it should. I obviously then turned the machine off and left it.
So in essence. The coil isn’t permanently locked on. It will function correctly sometimes. Does this rule out a dodgy transistor?
I’m guessing The coil is now fried so will need a new one anyway. I can’t test for resistance at the moment as it’s cooling down and I need to get to bed!!
This machine is testing me!!
Edit. I Have a theory and I’d be interested to hear your views. I just read a thread on pinballinfo whereby people had problems with the ball lock not lifting the armature as the gap between the magnet and the arm was too big so it couldn’t lift the arm. I’m thinking if this is the case with mine, the coil stays energised until a ball lock switch is triggered telling the machine a ball has been released, thus switching off the coil. Otherwise it continues to try and lift the armature.
Sound plausible?.? I don’t know. It kind of makes sense given that the coil isn’t locked on the whole time.
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:Me again
Ok, so I sorted the hall sensor by zip tieing it in the loom just above the magnet. Works a charm. Can’t sway in to anything to risk a short.
In other news, I noticed that occasionally when I started mutiball, the balls wouldn’t release. It would do a ball search forever but never realease the balls from the lock. In coil test the lock coil wouldn’t work. I had to remove the glass and manually lift it. Then it would work ok for a bit, then do the same.
Luckily I removed the glass quickly to investigate as I touched the coil it was red hot and then started to smoke.
I was in coil test at the time and it suddenly started lifting and dropping as it should. I obviously then turned the machine off and left it.
So in essence. The coil isn’t permanently locked on. It will function correctly sometimes. Does this rule out a dodgy transistor?
I’m guessing The coil is now fried so will need a new one anyway. I can’t test for resistance at the moment as it’s cooling down and I need to get to bed!!
This machine is testing me!!
DANG! You should definitely call or open a ticket with tech support.
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:Me again
Ok, so I sorted the hall sensor by zip tieing it in the loom just above the magnet. Works a charm. Can’t sway in to anything to risk a short.
In other news, I noticed that occasionally when I started mutiball, the balls wouldn’t release. It would do a ball search forever but never realease the balls from the lock. In coil test the lock coil wouldn’t work. I had to remove the glass and manually lift it. Then it would work ok for a bit, then do the same.
Luckily I removed the glass quickly to investigate as I touched the coil it was red hot and then started to smoke.
I was in coil test at the time and it suddenly started lifting and dropping as it should. I obviously then turned the machine off and left it.
So in essence. The coil isn’t permanently locked on. It will function correctly sometimes. Does this rule out a dodgy transistor?
I’m guessing The coil is now fried so will need a new one anyway. I can’t test for resistance at the moment as it’s cooling down and I need to get to bed!!
This machine is testing me!!
Edit. I Have a theory and I’d be interested to hear your views. I just read a thread on pinballinfo whereby people had problems with the ball lock not lifting the armature as the gap between the magnet and the arm was too big so it couldn’t lift the arm. I’m thinking if this is the case with mine, the coil stays energised until a ball lock switch is triggered telling the machine a ball has been released, thus switching off the coil. Otherwise it continues to try and lift the armature.
Sound plausible?.? I don’t know. It kind of makes sense given that the coil isn’t locked on the whole time.
Does the lock bar lift everytime in test with no balls? With 1? 2?
Quoted from f3honda4me:Thanks I see that now. Totally missed it. I know distributors were told by JJP that the 1500 limit was removed. Curious if there are any in the wild that are over number 1500. Distributors were also told more will be made later this year.
I purchased mine almost 3 years ago direct from Jack. I was able to nail down with him #1939 (year the movie was made). To my knowledge this is the only one over the number 1500.
Quoted from avspin:Just took this screen shot now.
[quoted image]
When I bought mine in 2014,new, it was #34. Advertised the same as this picture. 1500 limited,again?
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:Me again
Ok, so I sorted the hall sensor by zip tieing it in the loom just above the magnet. Works a charm. Can’t sway in to anything to risk a short.
In other news, I noticed that occasionally when I started mutiball, the balls wouldn’t release. It would do a ball search forever but never realease the balls from the lock. In coil test the lock coil wouldn’t work. I had to remove the glass and manually lift it. Then it would work ok for a bit, then do the same.
Luckily I removed the glass quickly to investigate as I touched the coil it was red hot and then started to smoke.
I was in coil test at the time and it suddenly started lifting and dropping as it should. I obviously then turned the machine off and left it.
So in essence. The coil isn’t permanently locked on. It will function correctly sometimes. Does this rule out a dodgy transistor?
I’m guessing The coil is now fried so will need a new one anyway. I can’t test for resistance at the moment as it’s cooling down and I need to get to bed!!
This machine is testing me!!
Edit. I Have a theory and I’d be interested to hear your views. I just read a thread on pinballinfo whereby people had problems with the ball lock not lifting the armature as the gap between the magnet and the arm was too big so it couldn’t lift the arm. I’m thinking if this is the case with mine, the coil stays energised until a ball lock switch is triggered telling the machine a ball has been released, thus switching off the coil. Otherwise it continues to try and lift the armature.
Sound plausible?.? I don’t know. It kind of makes sense given that the coil isn’t locked on the whole time.
Your coil is very likely just fine.
I have smoked mine several times.
The wrapper looks bad but the coil is very durable.
Check for cold solder joints on each coil wire, flux and reflow them.
They are under the munchkin hut plastic and very easy to access with the playfield in the pulled out service position.
Adjust the lock arm a little closer to the coil so it grabs it easier about 1/16" closer.
LTG has some pictures of exactly where to bend the bracket.
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:Thank you all so much for the replies. I feel much better now. It’s really isn’t a big deal then at all. The game just compensates.
On a side note, my standard edition 27/1000 has a clear coated cabinet. I thought these were reserved for the ECLE’s. My friend has something in the 800’s/1000 and his doesn’t have the clear coat.
Very early standards have the same direct print clearcoated cabinets as the ECLEWOZ versions.
They were first on the line and the first games made.
There are somewhere between 20 and 200 of them.
Once again thank you to the pinside community for taking the time to help me. The coil still tested within range so it’s fine. I followed LTG’s picture guides from the other threads and it’s all good.
Until next time......
I owe you all a beer.
Think i also have my first lamp board issue. Ramp lock light. Works in test and cycles all colours. Doesn’t illuminate during gameplay. Well it starts lit then goes out.
I can see this game becoming firewood
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:Once again thank you to the pinside community for taking the time to help me. The coil still tested within range so it’s fine. I followed LTG’s picture guides from the other threads and it’s all good.
Until next time......
I owe you all a beer.
Think i also have my first lamp board issue. Ramp lock light. Works in test and cycles all colours. Doesn’t illuminate during gameplay. Well it starts lit then goes out.
I can see this game becoming firewood
Loose cable?
It works ok in test though. I’ll have a check. Since I turned it off and on again it seems to be working correctly.
Now I just need to fine tune that damn monkey who doesn’t drop the ball at the top. Most of the time the ball drops when you press the flipper causing it to vibrate off.
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:It works ok in test though. I’ll have a check. Since I turned it off and on again it seems to be working correctly.
Now I just need to fine tune that damn monkey who doesn’t drop the ball at the top. Most of the time the ball drops when you press the flipper causing it to vibrate off.
Yep. Sounds like a loose cable.
Carefully unplug and replug all the cables on the board.
Pay attention the the fine wires.
Try not to pull on them, but press the side release and pull on the connector end instead.
Try...its a very tight installation in most cases.
I have had the use a probe to unlatch a connector before and a pick to lift the connector.
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Woz rr has arrived now to hope it’s mint and intact
[quoted image]
Nice!
No powerwall?
Quoted from Oneangrymo:What’s a power wall ?
Tesla batteries for Solar Power solutions.
Looking to get these and a Tesla) down the road.
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Woz rr has arrived now to hope it’s mint and intact
[quoted image]
AWESOME!
Do let us know!
Quoted from joseph5185:Tesla batteries for Solar Power solutions.
Looking to get these and a Tesla) down the road.
Oh this is a loaner I have a model x . No power wall
Not to get off the topic too much from pinball/WOZ, but I have heard about the home charger.
I assume it costs more, but is easy enough to install/use?
Quoted from joseph5185:Not to get off the topic too much from pinball/WOZ, but I have heard about the home charger.
I assume it costs more, but is easy enough to install/use?
U need a Tesla certified electric company to come and install it . And also don’t forget it’s tax deductible !
Quoted from Oneangrymo:U need a Tesla certified electric company to come and install it . And also don’t forget it’s tax deductible !
Wow! Nice!
Okay then...
How should the magnet that stops the ball for the winged monkey work?
When it is active should the ball stop if it is shot up either the right or left loop?
I always thought it stopped both ways but now during gameplay it only stops if shot up the right loop
Quoted from kidchrisso:I purchased mine almost 3 years ago direct from Jack. I was able to nail down with him #1939 (year the movie was made). To my knowledge this is the only one over the number 1500.
I got #39 for the same reason.
Quoted from NYG:How should the magnet that stops the ball for the winged monkey work?
When it is active should the ball stop if it is shot up either the right or left loop?
I always thought it stopped both ways but now during gameplay it only stops if shot up the right loop
It should work both ways if its lit.
Check/clean the opto's in the haunted forest loop. Might be unplugged, wire loose, bad crimp etc...
Check it in switch test with a ball
I would MAYBE pay $11k for YBR, but that $500 just hurts. I know it's "only" $500, but still..
Still REALLy hard to choose YBR over RR or EC (Automated).
Quoted from Oneangrymo:U need a Tesla certified electric company to come and install it . And also don’t forget it’s tax deductible !
No you dont lol. :p I did the install myself. But if you have never done electrical you should have an electrician do it.
Quoted from joseph5185:Not to get off the topic too much from pinball/WOZ, but I have heard about the home charger.
I assume it costs more, but is easy enough to install/use?
Cost is $500, have an electrician install it. Charges faster, and more efficiently so you're paying less $ per KWh.
Quoted from joseph5185:I would MAYBE pay $11k for YBR, but that $500 just hurts. I know it's "only" $500, but still..
Still REALLy hard to choose YBR over RR or EC (Automated).
Not even close for me. Automated exclusive Emerald Green 2.0 all the way. 
Quoted from f3honda4me:No you dont lol. :p I did the install myself. But if you have never done electrical you should have an electrician do it.
Cost is $500, have an electrician install it. Charges faster, and more efficiently so you're paying less $ per KWh.
Not even close for me. Automated exclusive Emerald Green 2.0 all the way.
Yeah I’m not messing with high power voltage and a POtential fire hazard .. get a professional !
Quoted from f3honda4me:Not even close for me. Automated exclusive Emerald Green 2.0 all the way.
Yea. I completely agree! =)
Quoted from pinballinreno:It should work both ways if its lit.
Check/clean the opto's in the haunted forest loop. Might be unplugged, wire loose, bad crimp etc...
Check it in switch test with a ball
Both the left orbit enter and left orbit made switches work in test mode.
Anything else to check?
The monkey sensor switch does not work in test.
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Woz rr has arrived now to hope it’s mint and intact
[quoted image]
I would love a NIB RR! Are there still some out there?
Quoted from homegameroom:I would love a NIB RR! Are there still some out there?
Yep and they are making more!
6 years later and the game is still...AMAZING!? ...
Seems like it.
How about the code update last month? That's just impressive...
I saw that they were making more, but I would like to keep the monkey in the machine (they may not remove it, but they may... and I'd rather be safe than sorry).... and I like the RR topper the best out of all of them.
Are they really making more RR? Have we had conclusive evidence?
And then, are the including the monkey and are they updating the castle doors to the new one? That would be important to know.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Are they really making more RR? Have we had conclusive evidence?
And then, are the including the monkey and are they updating the castle doors to the new one? That would be important to know.
Based on the flyer in THIS thread, they are not modifying the machine other than to enhance it and of course put the new 2.0 light boards in.
I'm pretty sure as of now the YBR is the only one with the exclusion of the beloved monkey...
Quoted from NYG:Both the left orbit enter and left orbit made switches work in test mode.
Anything else to check?
The monkey sensor switch does not work in test.
What version of code are you running?
Quoted from NYG:Both the left orbit enter and left orbit made switches work in test mode.
Anything else to check?
The monkey sensor switch does not work in test.
Is white button left of the coin door pulled out to enable power?
Check it in game.
Press the winged monkey standups until the back board light flashes. Throw a ball thru the loop.
Might have to adjust the sensor so it sees the ball from both directions
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