(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

5 years ago



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There are 7625 posts in this topic. You are on page 146 of 153.
#7251 31 days ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

I was afraid of that possibility, how can i tell if it is a proto from the S/N?

Version 3 is well above the prototype code.

Do you have the 7.5v boardset?

#7252 31 days ago

For what it's worth, I upgraded v1.19 to v7.01 using one of these Enfain 16gb sticks just fine:

amazon.com link »

#7253 31 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Version 3 is well above the prototype code.
Do you have the 7.5v boardset?

5v board set.

I have a feeling the "P" at the end of the 8 number only S/N may indicate this could be a proto machine

#7254 31 days ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

5v board set.
I have a feeling the "P" at the end of the 8 number only S/N may indicate this could be a proto machine

Yes, very early game probably a sample.
Some early games have the tornado plastic behind the munchkin playfield, the prototypes do.

You will probably have to upgrade to the 2.0 boardset. The 5v system was changed within 90 days of production, its pretty unstable.
I got my WOZ in week 12 of production and its 7.5v

Lloyd might be able to answer questions about it.
PM him

#7255 30 days ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

I have a feeling the "P" at the end of the 8 number only S/N may indicate this could be a proto machine

If it's a true prototype, check what version of software is in it. If first version, your game may not be able to be updated.

LTG : )

#7256 30 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

If it's a true prototype, check what version of software is in it. If first version, your game may not be able to be updated.
LTG : )

He says its already at 3.0, are the prototypes stuck at 3.0 being the highest code?

#7257 30 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

He says its already at 3.0

That is good. There are a few true prototype bricks around out there because where they were wanted to buy them rather than return them.

LTG : )

#7258 30 days ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

My WOZ RR shipping soon, no radcals they dont make them anymore

Did they make Radcals for WOZ?

#7259 30 days ago
Quoted from fnosm:

Did they make Radcals for WOZ?

definitely. i saw radcals on a WOZRR on display in Aventura Mall in South Florida. GORGEOUS!

#7260 30 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

You will probably have to upgrade to the 2.0 boardset. The 5v system was changed within 90 days of production, its pretty unstable.
I got my WOZ in week 12 of production and its 7.5v

I was thinking of doing that anyway at some point. was just hoping to get some sweet recent code installed before i get around to that

#7261 30 days ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

I was thinking of doing that anyway at some point. was just hoping to get some sweet recent code installed before i get around to that

What does JJP or Lloyd say about your game?

#7262 30 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

That is good. There are a few true prototype bricks around out there because where they were wanted to buy them rather than return them.

yeah at least 3.0 for now

Capture (resized).JPG

#7263 30 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

What does JJP or Lloyd say about your game?

i talked to Steve through their online ticketing support so far and it was escalated to the programmer yesterday for more info.

#7264 30 days ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

i talked to Steve through their online ticketing support so far and it was escalated to the programmer yesterday for more info.

I really hope you can update the code.
Code 4.5 and 5.0 really opened up the game and 6.1 was incredible.
I started with 3.0 and have done each update since.

#7265 30 days ago
Quoted from fnosm:

Did they make Radcals for WOZ?

Yes I have radcals on my di. They distributor tried to get them on my woz rr but sold out

#7266 28 days ago

Installed 7.01 just to be current. It seems to have confused my LED boards though. All work in test mode, but the numbering is wrong. None are turned off in the menu.

When individuals are tested, #1(W) doesn’t come on , but does when #2 (O) is displayed on the screen. Then all down the sequence are one out until #43 (YBR7). They then correspond to their proper numbers.

Any help appreciated.

#7267 28 days ago
Quoted from dendoc:

Installed 7.01 just to be current. It seems to have confused my LED boards though. All work in test mode, but the numbering is wrong. None are turned off in the menu.
When individuals are tested, #1(W) doesn’t come on , but does when #2 (O) is displayed on the screen. Then all down the sequence are one out until #43 (YBR7). They then correspond to their proper numbers.
Any help appreciated.

I would try going back to a full install of 6.61, if the LEDs work properly with that I would try re-installing the 7.01 build again. What version LEDs do you have?

#7268 28 days ago

Im in no hurry to install this 7.1 code.
Im at 6.61, should I just wait till bugs get sorted out? 6.61 seemed pretty complete for ECLE. Opinions anyone?
Also, what should my main monitor resolution be at. Currently on 1380/ something? I played another ECLE yesterday and made a point to power it on/off. It was at the 1960, and that header page seemed to be off to the left and right to far.
Thanks

#7269 28 days ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Im in no hurry to install this 7.1 code.
Im at 6.61, should I just wait till bugs get sorted out? 6.61 seemed pretty complete for ECLE. Opinions anyone?
Also, what should my main monitor resolution be at. Currently on 1380/ something? I played another ECLE yesterday and made a point to power it on/off. It was at the 1960, and that header page seemed to be off to the left and right to far.
Thanks

No bugs found so far with 7.1

And I have an early game with 7.5v boards.

It seems good.

#7270 28 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I would try going back to a full install of 6.61, if the LEDs work properly with that I would try re-installing the 7.01 build again. What version LEDs do you have?

Early build 5v boards. I have to see if can find the old code as the website only has the most recent. I’ll give it a go thanks.

#7271 28 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

No bugs found so far with 7.1
And I have an early game with 7.5v boards.
It seems good.

Thank you.
What should monitor resolution be at?

#7272 28 days ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Thank you.
What should monitor resolution be at?

I think mine is also 1366?
I'll check.

#7273 28 days ago

Whoops problem fixed. Looks like I bypassed one board a long time ago and forgot (R sling GI that only shows red). All lighting correctly now. Not sure why that affects the order up on the Rainbow light, but back to playing the glory that is WOZ (and stopping getting jealous that I’m spending so muh time on Pirates)!

#7274 28 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I think mine is also 1366?
I'll check.

Thanks. Ive just now seen WOZ Emerald City with 3 different resolutions at boot up. 3 different machines. Not that it really makes a difference, i just like to know what's proper and right.

#7275 28 days ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Thanks. Ive just now seen WOZ Emerald City with 3 different resolutions at boot up. 3 different machines. Not that it really makes a difference, i just like to know what's proper and right.

I guess its just a matter of what code and what version game/screen you have.

My Hobbit is 1080p so I imagine all new games are too.

But in digital graphics it doesnt matter, it all looks similar.

I haven't noticed that my hobbit is better or worse than my woz.

#7276 28 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I guess its just a matter of what code and what version game/screen you have.
My Hobbit is 1080p so I imagine all new games are too.
But in digital graphics it doesnt matter, it all looks similar.
I haven't noticed that my hobbit is better or worse than my woz.

In reference. I unboxed a Dialed In and JJP pirates, they both read 1960 x 1080.

#7277 28 days ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

In reference. I unboxed a Dialed In and JJP pirates, they both read 1960 x 1080.

Yep, it took them a little while to get there.

And the newer computers have way better graphics processors.

I'm thinking if going to an i5 on my woz when I rebuild the pc in it.

#7278 28 days ago

Hi all. Selling my 1.1 light boards, having swapped them out for the 2.0 kit. Here is a link to the ad. PM me if interested:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-11-light-board-set-for-sale

#7279 28 days ago

My munchkin land ball lock at house is having issues.
Doesnt always want to release multiball, it will finally release one in ball search, but not all 3. Works sometimes, but now its reached 50/50.
Ive checked connections and wires, looks tight and good. Thinking cold solder to coil?
Maybe increase strength in coils?
Ideas?

#7280 28 days ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

My munchkin land ball lock at house is having issues.
Doesnt always want to release multiball, it will finally release one in ball search, but not all 3. Works sometimes, but now its reached 50/50.
Ive checked connections and wires, looks tight and good. Thinking cold solder to coil?
Maybe increase strength in coils?
Ideas?

I'd check the optos - makes sure your WOZ is "seeing" 1,2 or 3 balls . If that's OK and the wand doesn't even try to raise it might be an issue with the coil.

#7281 28 days ago

Adjust timing of ball lock one, two, three, in coil settings.

LTG : )

#7282 27 days ago

Also make sure the lock arm is not rubbing on anything and that the end is pretty close to the centerline of the ball top to bottom.

#7283 27 days ago

Using small tongue under lock arm, adjust height of arm. You want the bottom of the U at front of arm to be exactly 1/4 inch above surface of plastic ramp surface. That’ll solve release problems. Pull playfield forward to reach it no disassembly required.

#7284 27 days ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Using small tongue under lock arm, adjust height of arm. You want the bottom of the U at front of arm to be exactly 1/4 inch above surface of plastic ramp surface. That’ll solve release problems. Pull playfield forward to reach it no disassembly required.

This ^^^

Do a test with the glass off. Does the lock release if there is only one ball locked? does it release with 2 or 3 there?

It may just be the bottom/front of the arm resting just under the ball which can sometimes be too much weight for the magnet to pull the arm up.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-ball-lock-arm-not-always-raising

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/munchkin-house-ball-search-issue

#7285 27 days ago
Quoted from wtatumjr:

I'd check the optos - makes sure your WOZ is "seeing" 1,2 or 3 balls . If that's OK and the wand doesn't even try to raise it might be an issue with the coil.

Thank You!

Quoted from LTG:

Adjust timing of ball lock one, two, three, in coil settings.
LTG : )

Thank you!

Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Using small tongue under lock arm, adjust height of arm. You want the bottom of the U at front of arm to be exactly 1/4 inch above surface of plastic ramp surface. That’ll solve release problems. Pull playfield forward to reach it no disassembly required.

Thank You!

Quoted from arcadenerd925:

This ^^^
Do a test with the glass off. Does the lock release if there is only one ball locked? does it release with 2 or 3 there?
It may just be the bottom/front of the arm resting just under the ball which can sometimes be too much weight for the magnet to pull the arm up.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-ball-lock-arm-not-always-raising
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/munchkin-house-ball-search-issue

Thank You!

This has to be it. I will work on it and report back.

#7286 26 days ago

I have (finally) managed to collect my 2 first jewels (I still think I'm terrible at playing that game, but getting there!), 25% closer to SOTR mode !

My life actually got way easier once I found out that getting the ball skillshot gets ball mode ready right away, and same with the witch skill shot to get to Fireball Frenzy faster.

So currently, I try to lock as many balls as I can, to launch new balls and get these skillshots, they are not too hard to reach, especially the witch that I find to be the easiest skill shot of all.

Do you have any other useful technique to collect the jewels, I mean except being a great pinball player (which I'm not yet !)

#7287 26 days ago

My goal is always to work towards Melt the Witch so I'm trying to start both MBs (stacking the 2nd Emerald City with Rescue if I'm having a good game), Fireball Frenzy and a Munchkin mode. Using the Witch skill shot can be very dangerous after locking a ball because those have no ball save so if the witch is throwing balls out the outlanes or SDTM a lot I will often full-plunge them to try to start a Haunted Forest mode if one isn't already running. I have a relatively easy extra ball configured for progressing YBR so I am usually shooting for those a lot at least at the start of games. I have still never completed Rescue MB, I've been very close a few times but most times I can't get all the jackpots required before I am down to one or 0 balls left.

#7288 26 days ago

Echo bobukcat. Completion of Mulitiballs is the difficulty with regard to gems. Especially rescue. I’ve seen that bright red arrow a few times but unfortunately drained before castle doors opened. Keep working at it! Still SUPER fun!

#7289 23 days ago
Quoted from Radius118:

You can run a P33 in an older Woz, but you will have to upgrade the processor at a minimum. I went with an i3-4170 and stuck an 8gb stick of ram in it. The game now boots up a full 10 seconds faster than before and the animation transitions are much smoother.

Well, I have an Atom based proto machine locked on lower code version... I am going to try and get the above (MSI H81M-P33, i3-4170, 8gb ddr3 1600 dim) to upgrade it and see if I can run the latest code.
Does anyone has a picture of the inside of their computer? The Atom MB is clearly smaller so i will have to move things around i think

#7290 23 days ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

Well, I have an Atom based proto machine locked on lower code version... I am going to try and get the above (MSI H81M-P33, i3-4170, 8gb ddr3 1600 dim) to upgrade it and see if I can run the latest code.
Does anyone has a picture of the inside of their computer? The Atom MB is clearly smaller so i will have to move things around i think

You can even use the MB from Hobbit with the new code, and they are easier to get.

#7291 23 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

You can even use the MB from Hobbit with the new code, and they are easier to get.

You have a link to one online? The other one are all used from Ebay.

#7292 23 days ago

I wonder what MB/CPU will be going into the YBR edition? If it's something currently available retail that might be the best bet.

#7293 23 days ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

You have a link to one online? The other one are all used from Ebay.

The used/refurb ones should be ok.
You cant beat the $40 prices.

There's a new open box one on Ebay for $52

I would definitely get the ebay one while you can.

Can someone post the mainboard from a black arrow hobbit?

They are compatible.

Meanwhile there are plenty used mainboards out there or new for a high price:

https://ithardwarehub.com/msi-h81m-p33-lga1150-intel-h81-ddr3-sata3-usb3-0-a-gbe-microatx-motherboard/?gclid=CjwKCAjwqqrmBRAAEiwAdpDXtHTiCoX4EY_NppiUVG1qLg12-k_OyZhLe9ZI9peQLlNlm1kXjWtOmRoC6AUQAvD_BwE

JJP lists the populated mainboards for $199 but claim to be out of stock.

I would call and verify this, its also a good price

#7294 23 days ago

Since installing version 7 my game is awarding HOADC groupings when I plunge a ball (as if I had made the shot behind the upper flipper). If I do a full plunge (i.e., not a short plunge for the witch skill shot, it's giving me credit for the horse that is lit for the right orbit, and adding it to my HOADC group. Anyone else seeing this behavior?

#7295 23 days ago

I installed V7 and it caused my left sling to machine gun. Had to turn the game off to stop it. Rebooted and tested 3 times with the same result. Went back to V6.whatever and all is fine. I'll be waiting for a more mature version of 7 before trying it again.

#7296 23 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The used/refurb ones should be ok.
You cant beat the $40 prices.
There's a new open box one on Ebay for $52
I would definitely get the ebay one while you can.
Can someone post the mainboard from a black arrow hobbit?
They are compatible.
Meanwhile there are plenty used mainboards out there or new for a high price:
https://ithardwarehub.com/msi-h81m-p33-lga1150-intel-h81-ddr3-sata3-usb3-0-a-gbe-microatx-motherboard/?gclid=CjwKCAjwqqrmBRAAEiwAdpDXtHTiCoX4EY_NppiUVG1qLg12-k_OyZhLe9ZI9peQLlNlm1kXjWtOmRoC6AUQAvD_BwE
JJP lists the populated mainboards for $199 but claim to be out of stock.
I would call and verify this, its also a good price

Not out of stock at the factory; the web store isn't always up to date. Still, your other information is valuable.

#7297 23 days ago

WOZ RR coming this Wednesday! The delivery people said 350 lbs.

#7298 23 days ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

WOZ RR coming this Wednesday! The delivery people said 350 lbs.

Yep it's a big boy, more loaded than any other game and totally for the good cause. I don't think JJP will ever do that again, they needed a big first and they got it

#7299 22 days ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

WOZ RR coming this Wednesday! The delivery people said 350 lbs.

Yup - I've moved 8 pins in and out of my place. WOZ is the only one I've needed help with. It's a beast.

#7300 22 days ago

Anyone installed the playfield repair decals? Looking for any advice, procedure, what playfield items were removed, etc. Did you mylar over them?

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