(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

5 years ago



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There are 7538 posts in this topic. You are on page 142 of 151.
#7051 43 days ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

I was in such a hurry, had to get them in the basement before my wife came home. Sometimes she doesnt know I buy new pins, and I would like to keep it that way.. she gets upset with new pinball purchases. So when she leaves I smuggle them into the basement, she doesn't see them and hardly goes in the basement.

It's like another me is out there somewhere posting on pinside with a different username. I thought I was the only one!

#7052 43 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I posted about this in the 2.0 lighting conversion thread, but I figured I would post here as well for those who don't follow that thread. I just finished the work on the conversion this weekend. Overall, it took me about 14 hours, which I spread out in sessions over 5 days (three weekends). If you are considering doing this but are nervous about whether you have the skills, do it. I have very little in the way of repair skills compared to most on pinside, though I'm learning. This conversion is very doable. Just take it in steps, follow the instructions, and ask questions if you need help. Don't let nerves stop you. Honestly, the most difficult part is removing the castle and munchkin playfields, which isn't really all that hard and which you will most likely have to do at some point. Anyway, I just wanted to offer some words of encouragement to those who may be on the fence.

Cool thanks for posting. I’m taking delivery of a very early run of WOZ (No 27/1000) which I will inevitably have to replace the boards at some point. Was it easy to purchase the boards from JJP. And what is the total cost including shipping if you don’t mind me asking, although I’m uk based so will cost more

#7053 43 days ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

Cool thanks for posting. I’m taking delivery of a very early run of WOZ (No 27/1000) which I will inevitably have to replace the boards at some point. Was it easy to purchase the boards from JJP. And what is the total cost including shipping if you don’t mind me asking, although I’m uk based so will cost more

It is up on their online store now so you can order directly from that. Mine shipped the day after ordering. It is $800, which is the discounted rate. At some point, they have threatened to raise the price significantly since they are selling at cost, but that hasn’t happened yet. Shipping wasn’t too bad, but you are right that it will cost more for you. It comes in a fairly large box.

#7054 42 days ago

Installed my drop target from indypinhead

Love the look and how solid this feels in hand, going to be able to take a beating!

IMG_4050 (resized).jpg
#7055 42 days ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Installed my drop target from indypinhead
Love the look and how solid this feels in hand, going to be able to take a beating![quoted image]

I have over 1000 plays on mine, still solid.

The LED bulb broke (easy to just replace bulb) but the target is still good!

#7056 39 days ago

Do I have to take out the mini playfield to change this rubber? ... How do I take out the mini playfield/loosen up to be able to change it?

Thanks Guys!

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#7057 39 days ago
Quoted from RPZ:

Do I have to take out the mini playfield to change this rubber?

Mine broke also.Only loosened the mini playfield to change mine.Two or three hex bolts to be undone enough to lift the playfield a little and get new sling rubber over that third sling post .

#7058 39 days ago

LTG has a guide he can send you about changing that rubber.

#7059 39 days ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

LTG has a guide he can send you about changing that rubber.

Thank You! I just found it, and unfortunately I sent him like 10 PM’s by mistake somehow to get this guide.. oops!

#7060 39 days ago

Is there a link to the guide?

#7062 39 days ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Is there a link to the guide?

Didn’t get the guide, but it’s super easy.

- unscrew and lift ramp

- loose 3 screws. 2 around the house, you have to rotate it until they come up, then a 3rd which you may or may not need to loosen towards the front of Mini playfield.

-Lift up mini playfield enough to fit new rubber through and you are done.

- tight all back up!

#7063 39 days ago

Thanks! Key post made! This thread needs more of them.

#7064 39 days ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

LTG has a guide he can send you about changing that rubber.

There is Butch's video :

And if you want the guide, I need your email address to send it to.

LTG : )

#7065 39 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

There is Butch's video :
And if you want the guide, I need your email address to send it to.
LTG : )

Thanks! Mine just broke today. Pretty easy fix!

#7066 38 days ago
Quoted from lurch:

Thanks! Mine just broke today. Pretty easy fix!

I changed that one a couple months ago, I was totally freaking out about taking of the mini playfield, but this tutorial video saved my life.

One advice though, the nut above the top left playfield (plastic part 14) is really tough to reach. After 30 minutes of struggle, I went to the hardware shop and got a flexible flat wrench like this one and did the job in 1 mn.

Flexible head (resized).PNG
#7067 38 days ago

Also you can gently flex that clear plastic out of the way without pulling out the mounting posts as they are flexible. I’ve always been able to do it with an 11/32 nutdriver.

#7068 37 days ago

I need help. In the middle of a game, one of the coils started acting up and seemed to fire on its own. The game screen then went dark. I shut down the game and restarted it. When it started up, the game seemed ok but very quickly into my first plunge, multiple coils started firing. I heard a pop and smelled burning. I turned off the game again quickly. I looked inside the box, and the only thing I saw out of the ordinary was this burnt looking chip on the I/O board (see picture below).

Note that I recently converted the game to the 2.0 lighting system. However, I played multiple games since doing that and everything played well. More recently, I waxed the game, and this was my first game after waxing. Not that waxing would do anything, but I did pull out the playfield a bit to get everywhere.

Any ideas? Is this just bad luck, and my I/O board went? Do I have some other issue that caused the I/O board to go? I'm really bummed out as I just spent all that time on the 2.0 upgrade only to have this happen a week later. Thanks in advance for the help.

IO Board (resized).jpg

#7069 37 days ago

Are these fuse LEDs supposed to be out?

Also, how did my witch get unmoored from the threaded rod? Perhaps because the motor just kept turning?

When I turn on the machine now, the ball lock door on the castle playfield just keeps clicking open and shut, even when the coin door is open.

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#7070 37 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Are these fuse LEDs supposed to be out?
Also, how did my witch get unmoored from the threaded rod? Perhaps because the motor just kept turning?
When I turn on the machine now, the ball lock door on the castle playfield just keeps clicking open and shut, even when the coin door is open.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Look st the coils, see if any look overheated.

Check for burnt connectors or maybe inserted wrong, smashed or bent onto the siderail or ground.

Looks like a high voltage short to cause that chip to burn.

Check the schematic and see what that chip controls

Could be wire cut, pinched or damaged and going to ground.
Could be a stay wire in a connector.

Screw or washer fell onto a board?

The game will not function properly until your i/o board is repaired or replaced.

Sorry to see this happening after all the work getting 2.0 up and running.

#7071 37 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Look st the coils, see if any look overheated.
Check for burnt connectors or maybe inserted wrong, smashed or bent onto the siderail or ground.
Looks like a high voltage short to cause that chip to burn.
Check the schematic and see what that chip controls
Could be wire cut, pinched or damaged and going to ground.
Could be a stay wire in a connector.
Screw or washer fell onto a board?
The game will not function properly until your i/o board is repaired or replaced.
Sorry to see this happening after all the work getting 2.0 up and running.

Thanks. This is very disappointing. I’ll have to check everything over, likely next weekend. I feel like I’m going to be looking for a needle in a hay stack.

What would an overheated coil look like?

#7072 37 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Thanks. This is very disappointing. I’ll have to check everything over, likely next weekend. I feel like I’m going to be looking for a needle in a hay stack.
What would an overheated coil look like?

Shrunken, singed wrapper. Smells bad etc.

#7073 37 days ago

Witch came up because you lost the 5v dc to that opto control board. Motor keeps running until it sees that up opto and it never did.

#7074 37 days ago

Really sorry to hear this Nokoro. Was following your 2.0 lights with great interest. Don’t know if one had something to do with the other, but I also had an i/o board short out. Never found the cause but had it replaced and it’s been good for years. Darn pinball machines.

#7075 37 days ago

Proud New Owner Today! ECLE #139, June 2013 build date. Appears to have many upgrades including light boards, not the 2.0 but earlier I was told.
My Monkey is not happy.
During game play it will come down track and grab ball....then stops and freeze's. Game search will happen but never corrects monkey, he's frozen to playfield. Had a few good games till bug occured. Its a game over situation, it never moves.
Ive checked the track and lubrication, the 2 ball switches top and bottom. Im able to get ball off with glass off and get the monkey to work in tests. It seems all good, but next game the second it comes down to grab Dorothy it just does it again.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance, I'm sure Ill have many more in years to come.

#7076 37 days ago
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#7077 37 days ago

Does he go back up the hill in test mode? If he does, the problem is he is “plugging” on top of the pinball because he is traveling too far down just a bit - a thread or two - on his threaded rod. Imagine you took off the monkey decoration and could see the small magnet coil - you want him to stop so that the farthest edge of the small coil (not the plastic) bisects the playfield magnet core exactly. Adjust up the bottom microswitch arm JUST a bit so that he stops just higher on the hill than you would think he should. Just a tad sooner than now and his magnet will pull the ball over ever so slightly before lifting it up. Too far down he stops exactly as you describe.

#7078 37 days ago

And congrats - WOZ is great when you get it dialed in just right.

#7079 37 days ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Does he go back up the hill in test mode? If he does, the problem is he is “plugging” on top of the pinball because he is traveling too far down just a bit - a thread or two - on his threaded rod. Imagine you took off the monkey decoration and could see the small magnet coil - you want him to stop so that the farthest edge of the small coil (not the plastic) bisects the playfield magnet core exactly. Adjust up the bottom microswitch arm JUST a bit so that he stops just higher on the hill than you would think he should. Just a tad sooner than now and his magnet will pull the ball over ever so slightly before lifting it up. Too far down he stops exactly as you describe.

Thank you so much. This woz is several years in the making. I recently sold some machines to help pay for this.
What your saying about micro switch sounds dead on, i will try this in a bit. Glass off again. Previous owner recently installed Gouvia New Monkey, maybe that switch or putting new monkey messed with that alignment. Came with red smoke witch mod to. Got really lucky on this WOZ.
Im very good friend from league was willing to sell it. He's taken great care of it.

#7080 36 days ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

Really sorry to hear this Nokoro. Was following your 2.0 lights with great interest. Don’t know if one had something to do with the other, but I also had an i/o board short out. Never found the cause but had it replaced and it’s been good for years. Darn pinball machines.

Thanks Vyzer. What made you finally decide to stop looking for the short and just replace the board? I’m paranoid about replacing it as I don’t want to spend all that money just to short another board, but I’m really not sure what caused this.

pinballinreno all coil sleeves look ok.

I really need to go over everything more closely. I’m going to email JJP and see what that chip connects to to try to narrow this down. I’m not sure if the 2.0 conversion had anything to do with this. As I said, everything worked fine for about a week after I finished, and then this happened.

#7081 36 days ago

I couldn’t nail it down, so called Jjp and actually had Eric M call me back. This was when Eric was not working on designs, etc. He had me checking everything with a multi meter (spent a good amount of time on the phone, couldn’t thank him enough). In the end there was nothing specific that could determine the cause. Just wound up ordering a new board. Keep in mind, my game was a very early production game (May 2013). Because I live in NJ I took the board to Jjp where they work on all sorts of boards to repair. Got a different I/0 board (used) which they felt was more robust for lack of a better word. It has been fine since. Btw, replacing it for you will be a snap after the work you did on the light boards. Do keep us up to date.

#7082 36 days ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

I couldn’t nail it down, so called Jjp and actually had Eric M call me back. This was when Eric was not working on designs, etc. He had me checking everything with a multi meter (spent a good amount of time on the phone, couldn’t thank him enough). In the end there was nothing specific that could determine the cause. Just wound up ordering a new board. Keep in mind, my game was a very early production game (May 2013). Because I live in NJ I took the board to Jjp where they work on all sorts of boards to repair. Got a different I/0 board (used) which they felt was more robust for lack of a better word. It has been fine since. Btw, replacing it for you will be a snap after the work you did on the light boards. Do keep us up to date.

Thanks. I have a friend who is a bit more experienced than me with these things, and he said he would help go through all the connections with me with a multimeter. I still want to call JJP to see if I can narrow it down based on the chip.

#7083 36 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Thanks Vyzer. What made you finally decide to stop looking for the short and just replace the board? I’m paranoid about replacing it as I don’t want to spend all that money just to short another board, but I’m really not sure what caused this.
pinballinreno all coil sleeves look ok.
I really need to go over everything more closely. I’m going to email JJP and see what that chip connects to to try to narrow this down. I’m not sure if the 2.0 conversion had anything to do with this. As I said, everything worked fine for about a week after I finished, and then this happened.

Take a look at the schematic.

#7084 36 days ago

I'm not great with schematics, but if I am reading it correctly, it looks like it is a transistor thingy for the switch matrix columns. If I'm right, maybe that rules out the coils . . . .

#7085 36 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I'm not great with schematics, but if I am reading it correctly, it looks like it is a transistor thingy for the switch matrix columns. If I'm right, maybe that rules out the coils . . . .

Or a coil or diode failure killed the transistor.

#7086 36 days ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Does he go back up the hill in test mode? If he does, the problem is he is “plugging” on top of the pinball because he is traveling too far down just a bit - a thread or two - on his threaded rod. Imagine you took off the monkey decoration and could see the small magnet coil - you want him to stop so that the farthest edge of the small coil (not the plastic) bisects the playfield magnet core exactly. Adjust up the bottom microswitch arm JUST a bit so that he stops just higher on the hill than you would think he should. Just a tad sooner than now and his magnet will pull the ball over ever so slightly before lifting it up. Too far down he stops exactly as you describe.

To answer that first question, yes it goes up hill and down in tests just fine.
Bent the lower switch up a little, it helped some, but not 100%, still did it again today, much better, i will try to tweak it up a little more.
Thank you again.

#7087 36 days ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

To answer that first question, yes it goes up hill and down in tests just fine.
Bent the lower switch up a little, it helped some, but not 100%, still did it again today, much better, i will try to tweak it up a little more.
Thank you again.

Put a little silicone or white lithium grease all along the threaded rod.

Same with the witch threaded rod.

One you get the monkey dialled in, its pretty stable.

I haven't had to adjust mine since the first week I owned it years ago.

#7088 36 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Put a little silicone or white lithium grease all along the threaded rod.
Same with the witch threaded rod.
One you get the monkey dialled in, its pretty stable.
I haven't had to adjust mine since the first week I owned it years ago.

Thanks bud. Im thinking just moving it cross town wiggled it or something. It was working.
Lithium applied to both rods yesterday. Made the noise it makes a little better.
That damn little coupler....at first i thought it was loose, how the hell you tighten that? Micro allen and micro wrench?

#7089 36 days ago

I have been thinking about selling off my Met pro and a few of my arcade machines to buy a Woz standard. Looks like all that is available is the YBR edition most places. Is JJP done making standards?

#7090 36 days ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Thanks bud. Im thinking just moving it cross town wiggled it or something. It was working.
Lithium applied to both rods yesterday. Made the noise it makes a little better.
That damn little coupler....at first i thought it was loose, how the hell you tighten that? Micro allen and micro wrench?

Yeah, it just has to grab.
Dont tighten it very much unless its slipping.

Moderate to light back pressure on it with a finger and it shouldn't slip.

I was concerned that the additional weight of the mod might cause it to slip, but that had not been reported.

I bet yours is just out if adjustment. It takes a little monkeying around with it.

#7091 35 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I was concerned that the additional weight of the mod might cause it to slip, but that had not been reported.

There isnt much weight to the Monkey Mod. Nothing the motor cant handle. Maybe 2 oz.

#7092 35 days ago

All right, owner for 2 days.
Some dumb questions.
Where can I buy green leg bolts to match this beauty?
What connector do i need to power a sub using this outlet on back of cabinet?
At what point do the witch's legs come out of house?

#7093 35 days ago

Wondering why a lot of guys don’t like the YBR ? I think the yellow looks great ?

#7094 35 days ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

At what point do the witch's legs come out of house?

Spell RAINBOW and then launch a ball up the ramp and hit it around the house with the upper right flipper like 10 times.

#7095 35 days ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

At what point do the witch's legs come out of house?

Go through the house calibration in device tests menu.
The legs drop when the house stops spinning.

Calibration can be tricky but yields good results.

Sometimes just manually turn th he house a tiny bit if its close to perfect.

There are a few vids posted about this as well as instructions here on pinside.

#7096 35 days ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

All right, owner for 2 days... ....Where can I buy green leg bolts to match this beauty?

I LOVE IT!

2 days in and you are looking to colour match the bolts, you sir are 'hooked on pinball!'

#7097 35 days ago
Quoted from whitey:

Wondering why a lot of guys don’t like the YBR ? I think the yellow looks great ?

It's got no monkey! (and cost $12.5K)

#7098 35 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

It's got no monkey! (and cost $12.5K)

Yeah, but the sparkles and yellow wire forms and smaller topper is definitely worth the extra 2K.............said no one........like.......EVER!

#7099 35 days ago

I'm looking at getting my first pinball. WOZ looks badass, I like the crystal ball toy with the OLED display inside. Can these units still be bought in brand new condition? If not, I might have to do the Wonka machine, as I like its color pallette, but the toys on WOZ look much more fun vs. Wonka.

#7100 35 days ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

Can these units still be bought in brand new condition?

Check with Chris at Kingpin games - 608-393-2299 . See what he has in stock. Tell him LTG sent you.

LTG : )

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