I'm seriously considering swapping to the 2.0 light system and need some honesty about how difficult it is. I am not an expert at pinball repair, but I have fixed several things and can get by. I have never done a playfield swap. I have successfully removed both the castle and munchkin playfields and put them back in. I've read the instructions, and they seem somewhat overwhelming, but I think if I take my time and do it in chunks over the course of a few days, I could do it. Anyway, I'm interested in hearing from others with similar skill sets as me as to how big a deal this is. Thanks!

You can certainly do it. Plan to do a little each day or evening and if it takes 1 week (2 weekends), no problem.

I have made some comments and shared some pics in this thread if you want to go back and review. There are a few of us who can answer questions and guise you through. You will not regret the decision to move ahead!

Thanks! I think I've realized that WOZ is one of those pins that I just don't intend to sell, but right now I feel like every time I turn it on, I hold my breath wondering whether another one of those little GI boards is about to go, which is why I'm considering this.

PM me your email address and I'll email you the instructions and vireland's notes.

Then you can decide. You are the best judge of your tech skills.

LTG : )

Thanks. PM sent. I have the instructions but not virelands notes. Do they clarify certain things?

They cover some of the things that needed help.

LTG : )

Fired up my Emerald city today and half the lights are again from haunted forest down..... replaced board 15 already. Not happy with this as this game is home use only.

I completely understand what you are going through. I felt the same way. It was such a relief to install the new board set and finally stop worrying about when I would lose another board. I couldn't be happier. Based on your description of your skill level, you will be just fine getting the new boards installed. Just take your time. Nothing difficult or overly technical to be concerned about.

Which board set?

All original from day one.

I was in the exact same spot with the lights. Every time I had a party, a board would go out. Because of the serial lighting, that usually meant half the lights went out, killing the best feature of the game. I was pulling the glass off and taking boards out constantly. I was at the point of just selling, even though I loved the pin. Of course, selling meant sticking someone else with the problem. So I decided to go with the 2.0 switch.

No one has less mechanical/ee skills than me. As many have commented, the project is more time consuming and tedious than anything else. The real challenge is all the different versions of Woz, which make the instructions confusing. Vireland's notes really help. I had some post-project issues, but had great help from Butch Peel at JJP. We talked about ways to improve the instructions. Butch has that project on his list. I'm going to email him some proposed edits. They should make separate instructions for each version of Woz. It would be an easy improvement, and it would make the instructions much better.

I'm glad I made the switch. If I do sell, I'm not sticking someone with a high maintenance headache. It's nice turning on the game and knowing it will work. Simple concept.

Do you know if the boards are the original 5.5v unbuffered boards, 5.5v buffered boards, or 7.5v boards? The original 5.5 unbuffered boards are very unstable.

I believe their 5v unbuffered. My last light lite is 86 which is the a in haunted forest. I've jump small boards but never the big one.
Update: I figured out how to jump out W5. JJP time!

Update: JJP sending new 7.5v buffered board to replace my 5v unbuffered as no repaired W5v buffered in stock. The 7.5 can substitute the the 5v but not other way around.

Woz club ? By my photo can you tell me if these boards should be replaced?or tell me what I have
This game has 200 plays built 2012-2013

27333EA9-A9E5-4BF9-9297-10EC680BD0DF (resized).jpeg

F0074BB9-0D2E-49ED-8A26-3CA3831434ED (resized).jpeg

You have 7.5 volt boards.

Unless you are burning out boards, no need to upgrade.

LTG : )

Likely the unbuffered version of the 7.5volt boards. I believe most of the games with buffered boards have the terminals of the coils soldered on rather than slide-on terminals.

Just ordered the 2.0 lighting conversion kit.

I lost yesterday half of my playfield's leds and GI.

Its a bit strange though:
- led 66 works (board 16)
- led 67 does not work (board 15)
- led 68 and onwards works (board W2 and onwards)
- led 65 and leds with a smaller number do not work (from board 17 backwards)

What do you think, which board should be replaced? Its strange, cause working board 16 is in the middle and on both sides of it is a non-working board.

Last time this happened, I think I replaced board 16, but it might have been the wrong board?

Is board 28 working? Is board W5 working? Find the first non-working board to narrow it down. It sounds from what you said the problem is either at 15 or before (such as 15, 28, W5, etc.)

Capture9 (resized).JPG

Thank you, I will have to investigate. I thought that I had found the culprit in board #17, but after I exchanged it, it worked ok only for a while and then the problems reappeared. It might be that there is a bad connection somewhere between the led-boards...

You said 15 is not working so the first problem board cannot be 17 because that comes after 15.

These are indeed unbuffered, just as you've described.
They will have issues, just a matter of when and to what extent. This is certainly the set to have outside of 2.0 though.

I'm looking for an alpha/iso of Woz version prior to 5.x. Does anybody have an ISO?

I can't help but curious to know why if you're willing to share

I have to check from you guys that am I having a led-board problem, or is this something else?

Now all the lights lit and in the start everything is fine, have a look here:

But a bit later in the game, the problems emerge like this:

And how to start figuring out, where the problem is?

Thanks for any info!

It appears that at least some of W2 is working because TINMAN is lit and not flickering. I would try bypassing 15 first.

Thanks DCFAN for the suggestion - here is #15 bypassed.

The first video is taken after it was bypassed. Some strange flickering:

The second video is taken after I also remembered to turn the led off in the WOZ menu. Its better here:

For some reason the tail of the "yellow brick road" seems to sometimes be of different color than the rest of the yellow brick road.

What do you guys think - its better than before, but not fixed totally?

Can you tell by the pics - my boards are 5V unbuffered ones?

IMG_5513 (resized).JPGIMG_5514 (resized).JPG

Maybe because the first six inserts are yellow instead of clear like all the others ?

LTG : )

Ah, ok, thanks, that explains it!

That looks fine - remember that the first 6 small inserts in the yellow brick road are different than the rest but LED wise that looks good.

LTG beats me again

Was it so that the errors in my first video in the post #6827 were probably due to me not disabling board 15 in the menu?

Yes.

Or if you replace a board and don't turn it back on. You get weird stuff too.

LTG : )

Thanks everybody for the tips, board 15 it was then!

I have a couple small LED boards that the steel mounting brackets are falling off.

The rubberized adhesive is failing after years of hanging upside down.

What is that adhesive and where do I get some?

Double sided tape. Auto parts store.

LTG : )

Thanks. I'll see what I can find.

3M VHB with the gray interior looks like it will work.

Need some suggestions to a problem I keep having that I am sure others have had as well. So I am now on the 2nd set of ruby slipper flippers since I bought the game NIB. A ball coming in hot broke my right slipper off of my first pair a couple of months after buying the machine. I glued that slipper back on to the flipper numerous times over about a year using many different types of glue, only to have it come flying off again during game play at some point. I noticed that hard drying glues such as super glue did not last nearly as long as some of the softer dying glues, but no matter what glue I used, it never lasted very long.

I just recently bought a new set of flippers from JJP and installed them since I was tired of the failing glue repair. Those were installed about 2 months ago now and the right slipper just broke in the exact same place on this new pair (right before the heel of the shoe). I wish it had been the left flipper as I had a good left flipper in my parts bin, but no... It had to be the right again. Anyway, I am guessing that these flipper caps break and buying a 3rd pair of flippers is pointless.

So does anyone have any experience using a glue to hold these slippers on the flipper that actually works long term?

Thanks in advance for any and all responses!!

How is your playfield angle ? I never broke a flipper or come close to it so two in a row seems really odd.

Locktite gel. Put a bead on top of the flipper and press down.

Mine have been on over four years in commercial use with that after one repair.

LTG : )

Try gel superglue (what I was taught to use for pool stick tips), and also make sure your flipper rubber is not pushed down too much on the flipper bat face thus reducing the chance of airballs.

Anyone with some extra 5 VDC LED boards for sale, please send me a private message, I would need atleast a few tiny boards.

Frank at JJP recommended Loctite 401. Had to get it on amazon but only needed it once as it has held.
Take the flipper bat out and clamp with a spring clamp overnight.

I’d be interested in a set of the old 5 volt boards if the price is right. My Winged Monkey board just went out. Trying to decide if I buy the $800.00 kit or if I have a whole set of spares. I really don’t feel like spending 8-10 hours on the new kit but I don’t like changing these unreliable ones out either. I have a really early build game. 5/1/2013.

CA gel glue. You dont even have to scrape off the old tape, just 3 or 4 drops and let it dry.
They hold forever;

I have even cut them off after they were glued with a box knife and re-glued them onto new black flipper bats.
Still holding. I didnt even bother to clean them up before gluing lol.

JJP wants silly amounts of money to tape the slippers onto a black bat.

Just scrape them off and glue them onto whatever color you want of flipper bat.

PPS still has the sparkly bats in stock that break easy for $4.50 each. I just bought some more.
Pinballgoddess likes them in spite of durability issues. She has broken 6 of them in 4 years lol.

Its ok, they are cheap enough from PPS to replace them once in awhile. And they play about the same as the black ones.

They dont last but they look good and are cheaper for now.

Going to TPF. Rumor has the Yellow Brick Road edition will be there. I got a Ruby Red new in 2014, but, will send pictures if it is there.

If they come out with YBR and it's at least as good as the 75th was, I am a buyer!

I picked up an original run WOZ recently and an working through some issues as I discover them. Since I'm new to the game, I'm not always sure what behavior is normal. Is the game supposed to release locked balls at the end of the game? Mine does not release balls from the munchkinland lock at the end of the game. If I end a game with balls locked, start a new game and lock a ball it does not kick a new ball into the shooter lane. It goes into a ball search instead. What is normal/ what is wrong with this picture?

Have you guys seen the yellow brick road pics online? $11.5k and no flying monkey!