(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by Daditude
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#6751 4 months ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

Mine came factory direct with 2.0 November 16 2016[quoted image][quoted image]

I believe that is the earliest date we’ve seen for the 2.0 boards

#6752 4 months ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

I’ve got the very dim green led issue with the strip under the Wizard/throne room

Did you fix the problem?
Will any green LED strip do?

#6753 4 months ago
Quoted from chalkup8:

Will any green LED strip do?

12 volt

LTG : )

#6754 4 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

12 volt

LTG : )

Thanks LTG

#6755 4 months ago

I replaced the ball and used mist n shine to clean the playfield. I’m very happy with the results but I still have these little white stains (visible above the light reflection) that I couldnt get rid of scrubbing with mist n shine. Any idea how to clean those ?

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#6756 4 months ago
Quoted from adol75:

I replaced the ball and used mist n shine to clean the playfield. I’m very happy with the results but I still have these little white stains (visible above the light reflection) that I couldnt get rid of scrubbing with mist n shine. Any idea how to clean those ?
[quoted image]

White Mark's are scuffs from lack of waxing. You can rub them off with novus 2, but I would just wax over them. They will go away.

Time for a little maintenance:

Remove ball tracks with naptha and novus 2.

Ground in dirt remove with novus 2.

Wipe residue off with VM&P naptha (Ronson cigarette lighter fluid for an old zippo lighter, if you dont want to store a big can from home depot).

Apply Blitz wax or P21S (silver can)
With moderate pressure Rub in a very fine coat. Turn pad frequently. Black will appear on the pad, its ok.

Let it dry half a hour.
Wipe it off with microfiber cloth.

Buff with yellow detailing flannel cloth turning frequently.

Wait 15 mins, buff it again. It will get shinier as it gets harder.

Mist n shine is not a wax. It's a cleaner.

Wax it If you want rock hard renewable, scuff proof protection to make your game last decades.

Wax it every 350-450 plays.
Change balls every 350 plays.

#6757 4 months ago
Quoted from adol75:

It doesn’t matter when you bought it, it’s the build date on the back of the pinball that matters. I bought mine nib in march 2018 but it was built a week before they started putting the 2.0 boards, december 15th 2016

Wow! Did you buy from Automated Services? This would not surprise me.

#6758 4 months ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Wow! Did you buy from Automated Services? This would not surprise me.

Curious to know why. I bought my WOZ from them in Aug 2018 and the build date is Feb 2017. Do they hold on to them or get the left overs?

#6759 4 months ago
Quoted from avspin:

Curious to know why. I bought my WOZ from them in Aug 2018 and the build date is Feb 2017. Do they hold on to them or get the left overs?

Can't stress enough why it makes sense as a home hobbyist to find another distributor.

From an earlier post a year ago:
...
But to hear this story twice (confirmed it was a 2.0 but received a 7.5) on the same title and trim level from the same distributor is very disappointing and also a good reminder to make sure you explore your options before buying.

There are many wonderful distributors out there like: (In no particular order)
https://www.kingpingames.net - Wisconsin
http://www.pinballstar.com/ - Pennsylvania
https://gameexchange.biz/ - Colorado
http://www.hemispheresamusements.com/ - Illinois
http://www.abelelectronics.com/ - Michigan

There is a crazy long list of distributors for JJP here: https://www.jerseyjackpinball.com/distributors/

Give these people a call, if you get a tool on the phone take your business elsewhere. I guarantee you there are way more good distributors than bad ones.
These machines are expensive and you should be treated with courtesy.
When you get someone you like, research them on Pinside and the web. Get the feedback. Then buy your game.

In case you are wondering
Pinballs.com is the Games Division of Automated Services, LLC., http://www.automatedservicesllc.com/

#6760 4 months ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Wow! Did you buy from Automated Services? This would not surprise me.

Nope, I got mine from The Pinball Company. I did ask to make sure it was a 2.0 and got confirmed it was a 2.0. It's only when I unboxed it that I realized it was a 7,5v buffered. At that point I could probably have returned it, but I really loved the game, I didn't feel like repacking it and shipping it back and the word was out that it was hard to find NIB Woz, so I kept it.

In the few weeks after I had a bunch of led boards that died, which made me think I shouldn't have kept it, but after replacing a few it's been running like a charm since then, so it's a keeper.

#6761 4 months ago

I just checked mine... I bought it in March of 2017 direct from JJP. It has a build date of 2-23-17 and it's a 2.0. Thanks for the info...

#6762 4 months ago
Quoted from calfdemon:

I just checked mine... I bought it in March of 2017 direct from JJP. It has a build date of 2-23-17 and it's a 2.0. Thanks for the info...

Which Version? RRWOZ, ECLEWOZ, ...?

#6763 4 months ago

Trying to change my WOZ settings so the game plays as close to default settings as possible. Seems like there's 1 default score award at 30k points that awards an extra ball. That point value seems low but maybe that's how the programmer designed it? Also changed ball save to off which is the default setting.

I used to have extra balls given out at 500k and 1 million points along with a 7 second ball save time but after seeing some long running games I prefer the game to be at default settings.

#6764 4 months ago
Quoted from fnosm:

Which Version? RRWOZ, ECLEWOZ, ...?

RRWOZ

#6765 4 months ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Trying to change my WOZ settings so the game plays as close to default settings as possible. Seems like there's 1 default score award at 30k points that awards an extra ball. That point value seems low but maybe that's how the programmer designed it? Also changed ball save to off which is the default setting.
I used to have extra balls given out at 500k and 1 million points along with a 7 second ball save time but after seeing some long running games I prefer the game to be at default settings.

30k for an extra ball is quite low. My default setting is auto, and in that mode, I've never seen eb below 130k.

#6766 4 months ago
Quoted from adol75:

30k for an extra ball is quite low. My default setting is auto, and in that mode, I've never seen eb below 130k.

Yeah that's what I was thinking, will change it. Thanks.

#6767 4 months ago

I was fooling around with Add-a-Ball the other day, and our EB is at 50,000. Not sure if that’s because of AAB or because I suck at WOZ!

#6768 4 months ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Trying to change my WOZ settings so the game plays as close to default settings as possible. Seems like there's 1 default score award at 30k points that awards an extra ball. That point value seems low but maybe that's how the programmer designed it? Also changed ball save to off which is the default setting.
I used to have extra balls given out at 500k and 1 million points along with a 7 second ball save time but after seeing some long running games I prefer the game to be at default settings.

I don't think getting an extra ball for a score award is default. You get the extra ball insert lit at default by getting to 10 on YBR, or by collecting 2 HOADC (I think), or as a random award.

You can award an extra ball for points in settings, but that is not a default setting. I used to have it at 100,000 but took it away when I started getting better.

I do keep a ball saver on. There have been too many times when I plunge, hit the pops and have them shoot the ball right down the right outlane without me ever getting to flip.

#6769 4 months ago

Did the 2.0 light switch (thanks Lloyd and Butch Peel). I now have 2 issues: (1) the melting witch goes up but not down and (2) throne room VUK opto does not read the ball.

On the witch, she does not go up or down on the devise test. But she comes up during play when I manually press her down. The switches activating her work fine. It doesn't seem like a bad motor because it does send her up.

On the VUK, the matrixed switch test shows it as an active (green) switch. But it does not read the ball, so it does not get kicked until the ball search (coil works fine). All the wiring is connected, the opto's appear lined-up, so I don't see the issue.

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

#6770 4 months ago

throne room vuk opto switch 15 AND witch down switch 23 share row 7 the white with blue trace. Chances are something else on that row has a broken double wire and that’s knocking out both of those. You were fiddling around a lot under there so something got bumped or broken. If you want a guess, check the bottom of the skill target on the left middle edge amongst the pops. That target snags on the playfield going up and down and chances are you lost the blue and white there. If not, follow along row 7 on the matrix and check each switch one at a time. Somewhere you’ll find a break I’m betting. Start with the skill target though. Trust me.

#6771 4 months ago

Thanks for the clue, Pinballomatic! I have some home work for the weekend. Vegas calling for some rain tomorrow, so perfect timing. The 2.0 switch has you moving and removing a bunch of wires that are all zip tied. I have no doubt that I'm the source of my problems.

The good news is the new lighting looks fantastic (did not notice the brightness issue) and everything is lighting up the way it is supposed to.

#6772 4 months ago

Yes, the 2.0 is brighter I've actually turned mine down a bit. Very happy to have a 2.0 ECLE now.

#6773 4 months ago

Matrix testing on my switches revealed that Skill Target switch (55) is down. I assumed everything after would be down, but the only other bad switches on the shared row (7) are the Throne Room VUK (15) and Witch Melted (down) (23). All others work. I tried to trace the common wire on the row (white w/blue tracing). Best I could tell there were no cuts/disconnects. Also, all wiring looked clean on the Skill Target switch. This has to be a wiring problem, because there is no way I'd have 3 non-working switches all on a common wire.

One strange observation, I did not see the white/blue wiring going to either the location of the melting witch or throne room.

Glad my day job is not mechanical/electrical engineering. My kids would be starving.

#6774 4 months ago
Quoted from PaddyLV:

Matrix testing on my switches revealed that Skill Target switch (55) is down. I assumed everything after would be down, but the only other bad switches on the shared row (7) are the Throne Room VUK (15) and Witch Melted (down) (23). All others work. I tried to trace the common wire on the row (white w/blue tracing). Best I could tell there were no cuts/disconnects. Also, all wiring looked clean on the Skill Target switch. This has to be a wiring problem, because there is no way I'd have 3 non-working switches all on a common wire.
One strange observation, I did not see the white/blue wiring going to either the location of the melting witch or throne room.
Glad my day job is not mechanical/electrical engineering. My kids would be starving.

Something is disconnected or plugged in wrong.

WOZ does crazy things when you do that.

#6775 4 months ago

Looking for touchup paint for WOZRR. I found some chips on the wire rail.

Thanks!

-1
#6776 4 months ago

Looking to join the club, considering buying a NIB with 2.0 boards WOZ. Prices on used WOZ seem way too high to me considering majority of them don’t have 2.0 boards. $7500-$8000 for a used plus shipping plus another $800 and 12 hours of work installing 2.0 boards, or buy a new one for about $9500 delivered. From reading people seem to indicate it’s not a matter of if but when the 5.5 or 7.5 boards will fail earlier than they should, and people selling with only a few hundred plays seem of the impression their 5.5/7.5 boards will never fail early since they haven’t failed yet, so therefore will never need 2.0. Am I crazy?

#6777 4 months ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Looking to join the club, considering buying a NIB with 2.0 boards WOZ. Prices on used WOZ seem way too high to me considering majority of them don’t have 2.0 boards. $7500-$8000 for a used plus shipping plus another $800 and 12 hours of work installing 2.0 boards, or buy a new one for about $9500 delivered. From reading people seem to indicate it’s not a matter of if but when the 5.5 or 7.5 boards will fail earlier than they should, and people selling with only a few hundred plays seem of the impression their 5.5/7.5 boards will never fail early since they haven’t failed yet, so therefore will never need 2.0. Am I crazy?

I would consider a used game with 2.0 boards that is within driving distance of you. I wouldn't buy a game with 5/7.5v boards. That is how I got bit.

#6778 4 months ago
Quoted from finman2000:

I would consider a used game with 2.0 boards that is within driving distance of you. I wouldn't buy a game with 5/7.5v boards. That is how I got bit.

That was my thought as well. And you wouldn’t be the first. I think the extra $1000 is worth avoiding the hassle and headaches of non 2.0 boards.

#6779 4 months ago

You might find someone that did a 2.0 swap and buy their old boards. I had a friend do it and I bought his. I basically have a whole replacement set. I know it’s still a matter of if, but probably not an issue this way. And way less work to replace a board or two vs the whole thing harness and all...

#6780 4 months ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Looking to join the club, considering buying a NIB with 2.0 boards WOZ. Prices on used WOZ seem way too high to me considering majority of them don’t have 2.0 boards. $7500-$8000 for a used plus shipping plus another $800 and 12 hours of work installing 2.0 boards, or buy a new one for about $9500 delivered. From reading people seem to indicate it’s not a matter of if but when the 5.5 or 7.5 boards will fail earlier than they should, and people selling with only a few hundred plays seem of the impression their 5.5/7.5 boards will never fail early since they haven’t failed yet, so therefore will never need 2.0. Am I crazy?

I just went through this same thing, to buy used or just go for the nib. I ended up going NIB with 2.0 system and feel good with my choice. If you are buying this pin to be a keeper and you’re actually planning on playing it then it seems NIB is the right choice with 2.0. If you’re buying to play and move it on in a few months or so then used would be the choice, but that’s just my humble opinion.

#6781 4 months ago
Quoted from Wildbill327:

I just went through this same thing, to buy used or just go for the nib. I ended up going NIB with 2.0 system and feel good with my choice. If you are buying this pin to be a keeper and you’re actually planning on playing it then it seems NIB is the right choice with 2.0. If you’re buying to play and move it on in a few months or so then used would be the choice, but that’s just my humble opinion.

This would be a buy to keep for quite a while. My family plays it when we go to a friends house that has it.

#6782 4 months ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Looking to join the club, considering buying a NIB with 2.0 boards WOZ. Prices on used WOZ seem way too high to me considering majority of them don’t have 2.0 boards. $7500-$8000 for a used plus shipping plus another $800 and 12 hours of work installing 2.0 boards, or buy a new one for about $9500 delivered. From reading people seem to indicate it’s not a matter of if but when the 5.5 or 7.5 boards will fail earlier than they should, and people selling with only a few hundred plays seem of the impression their 5.5/7.5 boards will never fail early since they haven’t failed yet, so therefore will never need 2.0. Am I crazy?

I have a 7,5v version and now close to 2000 games. I had 2 GIs board that died within the first 2 weeks and nothing else since then. I added a voltage regulator not sure if it helped or not but havent had any issue since then.

So I would say get a 2.0 if you can it’s clearly better but a 7,5 is not a sure path to issues either.

#6783 4 months ago
Quoted from adol75:

I have a 7,5v version and now close to 2000 games. I had 2 GIs board that died within the first 2 weeks and nothing else since then. I added a voltage regulator not sure if it helped or not but havent had any issue since then.
So I would say get a 2.0 if you can it’s clearly better but a 7,5 is not a sure path to issues either.

Thanks for the feedback. For now I've decided to wait and see if there is going to be a new YBR version or whatnot that is announced at TPF, and if I like what I see I'll just buy that through Kingpin/Chris!

#6784 4 months ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Thanks for the feedback. For now I've decided to wait and see if there is going to be a new YBR version or whatnot that is announced at TPF, and if I like what I see I'll just buy that through Kingpin/Chris!

That's the right thing to do. There has been tons of rumours on that YBR version, some say it will be stripped off some features, others don't, so best option is to wait and see the reveal. I love my Ruby Red, but a Yellow version would surely make me reconsider !

#6785 4 months ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Thanks for the feedback. For now I've decided to wait and see if there is going to be a new YBR version or whatnot that is announced at TPF, and if I like what I see I'll just buy that through Kingpin/Chris!

I will be at TPF, also. Jack, himself has come there before. Really nice guy.
I got my RR in 2014, new. 7.5 boards, zero boards issues. However, it has lots of toys. Mine has blown the same fuse, finally did it in front of me. Been going on years. Always tested all toys good, the house motor was bad. You can really scratch your head on this one. Jersey Jack has great support, even 5 years later. I do indeed love this game, though.

#6786 4 months ago
Quoted from HIPPY:

I will be at TPF, also. Jack, himself has come there before. Really nice guy.
I got my RR in 2014, new. 7.5 boards, zero boards issues. However, it has lots of toys. Mine has blown the same fuse, finally did it in front of me. Been going on years. Always tested all toys good, the house motor was bad. You can really scratch your head on this one. Jersey Jack has great support, even 5 years later. I do indeed love this game, though.

I'm not going to TPF but I'm assuming someone will post something on the forums here as soon as the details are out. Our POTC is the most played and continues to be the house favorite, so I am hoping to strike gold in the same way with WOZ.

#6787 4 months ago
Quoted from HIPPY:

the house motor was bad. You can really scratch your head on this one.

That was bizarre. Glad you isolated it and figured it out. In my almost 6 years of doing JJP tech support. This is the only spinning house motor issue I know of.

LTG : )

#6788 4 months ago

I have a late run ECLE with the 7.5 volt boards and have never had a single board issue. My distributor, Abel Electronics, made sure that the board issues were resolved prior to taking shipment of the games.

#6789 4 months ago

I posted that question in the wrong thread, moving it here. I lubricated the monkey and the witch, It was a very good idea as my monkey doesn't have problems catching the ball anymore and it doesn't make any noise moving.

I wanted to lubricate the castle doors, if they need it, but looking at them I dont know where or how to lubricate them. Help appreciated

#6790 4 months ago

I have an early build 5.5 and boards went out regularly. I wonder if weather conditions matter. I live in the desert with almost zero humidity.

#6791 4 months ago
Quoted from adol75:

I posted that question in the wrong thread, moving it here. I lubricated the monkey and the witch, It was a very good idea as my monkey doesn't have problems catching the ball anymore and it doesn't make any noise moving.
I wanted to lubricate the castle doors, if they need it, but looking at them I dont know where or how to lubricate them. Help appreciated

The castle doors dont need lubrication, they are directly attached to the motors.

#6792 4 months ago
Quoted from adol75:

I posted that question in the wrong thread, moving it here. I lubricated the monkey and the witch, It was a very good idea as my monkey doesn't have problems catching the ball anymore and it doesn't make any noise moving.
I wanted to lubricate the castle doors, if they need it, but looking at them I dont know where or how to lubricate them. Help appreciated

I'd like to lube my monkey mech too, may I ask exactly what part of the mech gets lubricated?

#6793 4 months ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

I'd like to lube my monkey

Too much information.

Quoted from apinballwiz:

what part of the mech gets lubricated?

See picture. Red arrow points to threaded rod and smooth rod he rides on. If you lube it, clean off the old first.

LTG : )

IMG_0590 (resized).JPG
#6794 4 months ago

Oh I didnt lube one half of my monkey actually.

Thanks Lloyd, will lube this weekend

#6795 4 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Too much information.

See picture. Red arrow points to threaded rod and smooth rod he rides on. If you lube it, clean off the old first.
LTG : )[quoted image]

Is there a LINK to get the lube for the monkey? I wanna lube it too.

#6796 4 months ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

Is there a LINK to get the lube for the monkey? I wanna lube it too.

I lube with this one
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/66-B105

It’s clean, not greasy and it’s dense enough that you can lube without spilling everywhere.

#6797 4 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

You might find someone that did a 2.0 swap and buy their old boards. I had a friend do it and I bought his. I basically have a whole replacement set. I know it’s still a matter of if, but probably not an issue this way. And way less work to replace a board or two vs the whole thing harness and all...

One of the main things that people fail to realize is the complexity and count of the wiring involved with the pre 2.0 lighting. All of the pass-through LED boards have 3 separate cables connecting them, one for power, one green and one red (in/out). The small white tabbed connectors on the in/out cables are not that great and can be a bit difficult to unplug. If you are in and poking around trying to diagnose faulty boards and break a cable (patch) or connector, these start to get quite expensive. The same 2.0 replacement PCB has a single, robust connector, no contest IMO. That said, some might go a long while without any issues, good luck!

BTW, I have a fully functional 5V buffered set, with all patches and wiring removed. Just going to box it up and list it in the near future. Having the patches along with the boards will be important for those deciding to stay with a pre 2.0 system. Just my 2 cents.

#6798 4 months ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

Is there a LINK to get the lube for the monkey? I wanna lube it too.

white lithium grease:

amazon.com link »

#6799 4 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Too much information.

See picture. Red arrow points to threaded rod and smooth rod he rides on. If you lube it, clean off the old first.
LTG : )[quoted image]

Much appreciated as always!!!

#6800 4 months ago

Happy to report I've finally completed the 2.0 light kit conversion and resolved the post-conversion switch issues (i.e., I lost 3 switches). It turns out I lost a wire link on a connector, and the switches all shared the wire (as Pinballomatic predicted). You could not see any physical issue with the connector. Fortunately, Butch Peel off JJP took the time via facetime to isolate the problem, guiding me around with a multimeter. Way over my pay grade. And rather than replacing the connector, which had something like 16 wires, we connected two switches on the wire by splicing into the wire to eliminate the short (see picture). Everything is now working. If you do the 2.0 switch, be careful moving all the wires. Thanks again to Butch and the JJP team. They were incredibly helpful and patient.

InkedIMG_3904 (002)_LI (resized).jpg
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