Yes.

Best put something there to protect it.

LTG : )

I use the styrofoam (I got one or two from NIB WOZ RR) on the other side. It looks like a smaller Yoga Block.

you are doing it right.

Thank you for posting! Any issues with tightness causing scratches?
Thanks

I do like them. They are a bit $. I think they help games that have dark centers in the Playfield. Yes, you have to remove them when you need to slide out or lift the Playfield. They are on magnetic strips. It’s very easy to take them off and reposition.

None. I think, Pinball life sells protectors you slide in when raising the Playfield. If you’re concerned.

Look at #5 on the parts list.

It's a small flat head screw that holds the tree mounting plate onto the hex post.

It probably under or inside the rubber tree and just came loose.

If not you will have to chase it down.

Remove the tree from its mounting plate with a small nut driver. Long shafts work well here.

Just press down on the small black nut firmly. The rubber will move out of the way.

Dont lose the nut. Magnetic nut driver here if you got it.

If the screw has disappeared start looking around in the cabinet or all around the playfield for this small screw. Its black.

A magnet or magnetic pickup tool works wonders to find little unseen parts inside the cabinet or crevices and under lane guides or plastics.

If you can't find it get one from the hardware store 6-32 x 3/8" flat head machine screw with Phillip's head.

10 cent item.

Blue loctite on these if it comes loose again. Not red, use blue loctite or permatex.

Back in the club!! A long time ago I had a WOZ standard which was sooo much nicer than my other games (players TAF and TZ) that I was intimidated by it. A few years have passed and I am super happy to be back in the club.

One issue I am having right now though is- the game is always spitting out 2 balls into the shooter lane. It is really weird, and makes the game virtually unplayable because as soon as i drain, the ball ends, yet the second ball comes rolling along a second or two later. It’s like the game doesn’t realise the second ball is there at all.

The trough optos seem to be working ok (though i am not sure how to test them beyond just tripping the light beam), and the shooter lane switch is working ok.

Sometimes I can leave the ball in the shooter lane for a while and nothing happens, but as soon as I plunge, a second ball is dropped into the shooter lane. So what gives? Connectors to the trough have been checked, switches / optos are ok in test.

So a plunge / upkick of a ball does create a large amount of vibration I would go I to test switch and with glass off give the game a few pounds and see if anything triggers and resolve the flaky switch or optic pound around apron area

Are you sure you have the correct number of balls in the game?

Quite often when someone is having this problem it is the jam opto being flaky. Mine was like that when it arrived NIB.
Switch test may or may not show the problem.

Fantastic, good idea

Jam opto - I had not heard that term, I will look it up! Thanks a lot !

It is the opto on the trough board that is closest to the shooter lane. It senses whether a ball is sitting in the area of the trough chute that should be kicked out to clear it.

Just an example picture circled in red:

jamopto (resized).jpg

The butt end of the opto LEDs should be fairly tight against the board. If not then that sometimes results in a flaky light transmission/reception. Sometimes solder joints are cracked or not well soldered, and sometimes it is just a bad LED.

Thanks, I just happened to find the term in the Mission Pinball Framewoek documentation, but that image is way more helpful. I appreciate it!

If you find the problem in switch test, you may be able to reflow the solder at the solder points if that is the problem.

Right on; I will inspect the solder points closely , thx!

Not getting a response from the ticket I generated in the JJP web site. Tried twice.
Lloyd is there a problem with their network?

Do you have a shooter lane rail cliffy?
Pay attention while a ball is ejected out of the trough into the lane. Is it bouncing back into the trough sometimes? If so, the ball is landing back on top of the next ball. The shooter lane switch doesn't see a ball so the trough VUK fires 2 balls up into the lane. I had this same exact problem on my MET. I ended up having to bend the ball deflector down (towards the plunger) just a hair. This changed the trajectory just enough to prevent the ball from bouncing back into the trough. Problem solved.
Hope this helps.
Nick

No cliffy

The ball is being smoothly ejected, consistently, no bounce backs. Both balls are ejected into the shooter lane

as I was trying to sort this out, I fished around near the jam opto, and made sure it triggered properly. After I re-verified the optos and switch, I started a game. And ... so far no double ball. What the hell?! I changed nothing.

Frank has been gone so they are backed up.

Please keep trying.

I don't have access to ticket desk so I can't do anything there.

LTG : )

Dirty or misaligned opto.

What are your thoughts on changing balls ? I see a lot of people change them every 500 plays, and read some comments regarding the poor quality of JJP balls although it's not much documented. My balls are perfectly clean and shiny after 1500 plays.

Is there any reasons to change them ? Or anything to look for specifically that says it's time to change them ?

1500 plays you should replace the balls. When you get the new ones compare them to the old ones.

JJP uses very good balls, standard high carbon pinballs. They are just fine and low magnetism.

It's not the shinyness we are looking at.

Its surface deformation.

Look at your balls under a jeweler's loupe you will see flat spots and cuts.

Theses surface deformations grind the clearcoat to a fogged surface over time.

Certainly the playfield can be buffed out to clear again, but changing balls makes the playfield last and look new a lot longer.

40000 plays without wax and changing balls removes the playfield art.

Have a look at any location game that has zero maintenance.
You will see unneccessary wear.

After purchase pinball games will still be played 30 or more years from now.

They will look great with a little maintenance.

Soooo.. update. Yep
Switches were fine. Optos were fine. Looking closely, I ejected a ball into the shooter lane. It triggers fine. All trough optos are tripped fine. Wait, all of them? Bad opto?

Let’s just say make sure you count the balls before you play

So wrong # of balls installed huh?

We are looking at WOZ now. The wife hit me with I would like this game too after we already bought a POTC - thanks honey take all my $$!

Did you get it locally (we aren't too far from each other) or did you purchase new if you don't mind me asking.

Thanks for the explanation. I surely am interested in keeping my playfield perfect, so I'm sold !

What balls do you get ?

Get these

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PB116-5

Get 3 tubes so you can change them again in 400 plays.

And wax the playfield and ramp with blitz if you haven't already

I hope Frank is ok. He is great.

I had a call into support and connected with Butch today. He said that they were running thin and he was helping out. Great guy and was very helpful indeed!

That said, I can finally say that I've successfully installed my WOZ 2.0 LED kit. There was a small issue with a hair thin line of solder shorting two solder pads on the back of the COMMS board (board with all of the RJ45 Ethernet connectors on it). It was literally preventing any of the new LEDs from lighting up. Each of the large PCBs had a single greed 'GOOD' LED on but nothing else on for the 2.0 system. Amazing that something so tiny can shut everything down.

I have taken a lot of pics of my work, made notes of discrepancies that I had with the instructions, some of which others have pointed out and noted which of the items were a challenge, IE: RJ45 cable(s) being too short etc... (the white coiled patch cable at the top in the photo will be replaced with a 2' as the included 1' would not reach the COMMS board)

I will have to go through the pics and thin this out as there are too may. That said, not sure if I should share my thoughts and finding here or not. Without a doubt, if anyone is on the fence about the kit, just do it. It's a killer upgrade and I will actually have to go in to see if I can reduce the brightness as these sit closer to the inserts and are just simply brighter. The other thing that I found is that my pin seems to be over powered now, as in all of the coils are running at an increased power. Odd but the pin is super fast right now.

I chose to take extra time and remove everything that would no longer be used in my WOZECLE, full harnesses etc... without cutting or damaging any of it. I now have a fully functional 5v buffered system that I will take pics of, bundle up and put on the market. I've had zero issues with that previously upgraded system, just wanted to move to the 2.0 while it was at the reduced pricing.

IMG_20190208_2044113 (resized).jpg

WOZ 2.0-COMMS (resized).JPG

Butch ( Peel, the manual guy ) is great. Glad you were able to figure that one out !
LTG : )

Yes exactly, another great guy, just like you

I was very happy as I thought that it might the the BAG PCB. They way that we isolated the 'NO LED' root cause was by simply plugging in single large LED board (via it's RJ45 port) directly into the BAG board's RJ45 port, bypassing the COMMS board all together, this was disconnected/connected while the power was off. This single large PCB (and it's satellite LED PCBs) worked without issue after booting up. I then powered down and tried to patch from the BAG PCB -> COMMS as expected but with only a single large board connected to the COMMS (via RJ45), powered up and it didn't light up. Tried another couple of ports, same result. Butch said that it looked to be a faulty COMMS board. But after discussing the simplicity of the board and its traces; how all of the ports are just wired (traced) in parallel, he said that maybe there is a short of some sort. I wiggled the connectors and finally checked the whole thing under a magnifying glass and the second time I noticed an extremely tiny thread of solder shorting pin 1 (square GDN pad) and a round pad (pin 2, of the same port), you can see below how that would short those two traces across the whole PCB.

Here's a pic from his manual that I've just looked up. (KILLER manual, if I haven't already said it a few times now)

Capture (resized).JPG

How long did it take to do the change over, I am contemplating buying the new
kit, but dreading doing it?

I think it took me 12 hours. I took my time to make sure I did everything correctly. There is nothing difficult about it. Just take your time and follow the directions.

Yep.. lol no idea how I did that.

Your WIFE asked you
To get a WOz after buying POTC? Man... wow.

I bought mine from a great guy, another pinsider in a trade. If buying new, talk to Joe @ PinballStar, who can get you one quick. But you can also buy a used one with ease; saves you a bunch of money. Be aware of the light board issues - but it seems to me they are not common.
Eventually they'll fail, but so will everything. I believe there is a WOz with the 1.1 light boards for sale a few hours away in PA.

Yes, others have said up to 12 hours. Initially I thought that if I read through the instructions that it might take less but once I decided to start, I realized that I would be very particular and just take whatever time was needed for me to be happy. I did it over the course of a week so probably many more hours than necessary but totally worth the time.

Curious, have you had board issues? If so, doing this just takes the anxiety away of worrying about 'what next?' or 'when?'. If your WOZ is a keeper, do it. (Or sell and purchase new or gently used with 2.0)

Hey folks - I'm looking for a witch mod to replace the godawful one in the popemobile; i know the goveau one is OOS but are there still others? the hallmark figures?

PM'd Sillyoldelf for his awesome witch. What other great mods are out there?

Folks, what has been some of the ways to fix the release of balls from the munchkin lock?

I think that I have tried everything.

IE: bending the small resting tab underneath the lock bar which holds the balls back (the lock bar which raises and lowers with the coil). I have bent this down and up, both in varying amounts. Basically resulting in the arm letting the first ball through and the arm sitting on top, or slightly top front of the next ball, or letting them through. Note: if I bend the tab to allow the arm to almost sit on the plastic subway then the first ball seems to cup into the backside of the face of the arm and the coil won't pull up the arm. I have put tape across this opening to see if the position of the arm solves the release of multi-balls but it does not.

There is a coil setting for the release timing of balls 1,2 and 3 when locked and releasing them for multiball. I don't believe that has anything to do with what I need. That would just allow you to wait between releasing the balls.

I think that the pitch of the pin is ok. Not sure what else to try. This makes it bad (unfair) for a multi-player game of course.

Yeah we have room for 1 more game and as we were going through potential choices she brought up WOZ again. I'd like to grab a Houdini or perhaps some sort of Stern and rotate it every 6 months or so. Houdini looks great and its basically an LE model for cheap. I think WOZ looks fantastic but the theme does nothing for me, same for Dialed In although I am warming up to DI the more I see it (it kind of reminds of RS which most people hate but I actually love it).

If I could get a good deal on a WOZ or Houdini locally I would probably go for it.

And Joe has been great I am getting my POTC and MBRLE from him. Won't have either for a while (MBR whenever it ships), POTC will pick up at Pinfest (couldn't resist the show special and no shipping, hate the wait though).

Agreed, RS is a beauty. A nice Superpin Widebody, chock-full of goodies!

In the factory they use a 1/4" thick plastic block when adjusting the height of the bottom of the "U" on the lock arm to measure the distance between it and the plastic ramp below. Now please stay with me here I will try my best to explain what I mean. You mentioned the small "tongue" tab underneath the metal arm. That is the key as you said. What you want is to adjust the arm so that the landing spot is 1/4" above the plastic ramp. Naturally there is a bit of bounce as the arm lands and you wouldn't want the thing to come crashing down and land on the 1/4" block hard (imagining it were always there even during game play) as if it naturally it wanted to land lower, you want its resting place to be JUST 1/4" above the plastic ramp surface. Ideally your adjustment would result in the arm being in this position: you have your 1/4" block and the arm is down at rest, okay? You take the block, place it on the ramp and slide it toward the arm from the front - you don't want it to hit the bottom of the "U" on the arm and stop, you don't want it to push the arm up noticeably while sliding through but you also don't want it to completely miss the arm altogether not touching it at all - ideally what you want is for the block to (for lack of a better term) kiss the arm gently on the way by. That's the best result you can get. Now when you are making the adjustment, one of the most common things to do is one you want to avoid especially, and that is, when looking in from the side, it is tempting to think that to adjust the arm to the correct spot you can just grab the rear "wall" of the bracket behind the coil and tweak it forward a bit or pull it back a bit. Try NOT to do that; it's easy to grab and you would think that would be a quicker fix but it can elongate the arm in relation to the optos and screw other things up and contribute to the ball stopping short of the front wall of the arm as you described because it is too low and out of place. That can get more things out of kilter so try not to touch that at all. Just go for the 1/4" over the ramp surface adjustment and THEN you can use the timing settings you mentioned - they actually can help because the balls and the arm behave differently when there is one ball locked up there versus two and then three. If the arm isn't getting down fast enough when it is releasing one of two balls that are parked there, you can shorten that time but then tweak it differently when there are three balls up there depending on how the arm behaves then. You can use the timing settings as needed to tweak how the arm behaves best in each situation so they can be useful. However, first things first, get your arm height adjusted properly and then before you do anything else, experiment with it by starting a game with the playfield down and the glass off. Start a four player game and then lock one or two for player one and then start looping the ramp while playing player two, judge how the arm is handling things with two balls locked and another arriving again and again, then lock one for one player and loop the ramp with no locks lit and see how it handles one, and so on - you get the idea - if it's mostly good, then tweak your timing settings and get it dialed in as best you can. You are never going to get it perfect every time but you should be able to get it to be pretty consistent and it all works off of the proper height adjustment for the arm to start with and then work from there on the nuances. If everything fails, you can of course turn on the virtual lock setting in the software so no one in any multiplayer game or anytime has to deal with any unfair situations involving the lock. Hope that helps.

In order to get the lock bar to work properly you first have to make sure its tightly mounted.
the tolerances are so close that loose screws really affect it.

Under the hut plastic the the top screw on top of the ball lock solenoid assembly is generally not tight.
You might notice this because the lock bar can move side to side in the ramp when it should be firmly mounted.

Tighten the big silver single screw and put blue loctite on it.

Secondly the 2 screws on the bottom of the ball lock coil assembly are always loose.
These are harder to get to as you have to remove the ball lock assembly from the ramp. Its not hard just tediuous.

After you made sure the assembly is firmly mounted, you can proceed with adjustment.

Adjustment is pretty straightforward.

Make sure when the lock bar is raised that it clears the balls by a good margin like 1/4"

When the bar is at rest, the lower front end downward loop has to go about 3/64" past the side apex curve of the ball.
It has to touch the ball just below the centerline.

If its higher, balls will push thru. When its slightly below the center line the balls will try to climb the loop and be trapped.

Measured from the ramp inside bottom the the edge of the loop is approx 12-13mm on my game.

After a few games if balls escape, bend the lock bar down only 1/32", or half a mm at a time until the balls try to climb the loop instead of pushing through.

If the lock bar drags on the balls you have to adjust the solenoid bracket or adjustment tab by bending it open more, until its higher and start over.

Because the sweet spot is only a millimeter or so, its important the the mounting screws are tight to begin with.
It took me 2 years to figure this out.

Properly adjusted and timed the arm will not drag on a ball and a high speed ball will not raise the arm at all if it hits the end. The curve of the ball and its rolling motion should force the arm down under the ball not up.

So, again, start with making sure the ball lock assembly is firmly mounted to the ramp before you adjust anything.
Often its just loose and needs no adjustment at all.

Thanks ! I've just placed my order and added Novus 1 and 2 for cleaning, a bunch cleaning cloths and some grease for the monkey. Looking forward to maintenance day !

Use Novus 1 for plastics but avoid 2 for a few years/decades. That’s for scratches, esp for restorations, not regular cleaning and polishing. Use Wizards Mist and Shine on the play field to clean and polish. JJP recommends this for anti static and pf care. This makes waxing a little much, methinks. Wizards does the trick.