Sorry if I overlooked it. Everybody is talking about JJP selling the 2.0 set. But I did not see it anywhere on their page. Is it out of stock?
Thx
Sorry if I overlooked it. Everybody is talking about JJP selling the 2.0 set. But I did not see it anywhere on their page. Is it out of stock?
Thx
Quoted from nostra:Sorry if I overlooked it. Everybody is talking about JJP selling the 2.0 set. But I did not see it anywhere on their page. Is it out of stock?
Thx
You probably have to call the service department to order it.
Just moved my WOZ to a new location and ran into a problem. No display and no playfield lights! Checked the CPU connectors and connector behind the display (swiveled the display down for access), but all connections look good. The CPU fan is running and I get green LEDs all around on the PCBs in the bottom of the cabinet, though the CPU LED indicator light on a PCB flashes rather than stays solid. Most importantly, after booting the machine, in order to get anything on the backbox display, each time I have to physically press the on/off button on the display, with the LED light first going green and a "No Signal" message on the display, then that LED goes red and flashes.
Any ideas? I'm stumped.
Quoted from JOESCHALL:Just moved my WOZ to a new location and ran into a problem. No display and no playfield lights! Checked the CPU connectors and connector behind the display (swiveled the display down for access), but all connections look good. The CPU fan is running and I get green LEDs all around on the PCBs in the bottom of the cabinet, though the CPU LED indicator light on a PCB flashes rather than stays solid. Most importantly, after booting the machine, in order to get anything on the backbox display, each time I have to physically press the on/off button on the display, with the LED light first going green and a "No Signal" message on the display, then that LED goes red and flashes.
Any ideas? I'm stumped.
I'm thinking maybe it needs to be reset?
Thanks for the reply. No reset button in sight. I read this and the related threads and reseated all the relevant connectors. Now I get the same error message as at the very end of the following thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-no-signal-on-wozrr
Essentially, the message says that all settings were reset to default values, and to press F1 to run setup and F2 to load default values and run setup.
Any further ideas are appreciated. The thread linked above did not end in any resolution to this error message.
Quoted from JOESCHALL:Thanks for the reply. No reset button in sight. I read this and the related threads and reseated all the relevant connectors. Now I get the same error message as at the very end of the following thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-no-signal-on-wozrr
Essentially, the message says that all settings were reset to default values, and to press F1 to run setup and F2 to load default values and run setup.
Any further ideas are appreciated. The thread linked above did not end in any resolution to this error message.
If I’m not mistaken, you need to connect a USB keyboard to the game and hit F2 as instructed to load default and run setup.
Quoted from JOESCHALL:Thanks. I'll try that and get back.
Correct, thats what i think it is too. If it does that every time you turn the machine on then I assume the battery on the motherboard is dead.
Also, once you hit F2 and the BIOS screen loads, just look for "Save&Exit" (or something along those lines)
Quoted from JOESCHALL:Thanks. I'll try that and get back.
Jumper the reset pins on the mainboard if there's no switch.
Just like a PC.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Jumper the reset pins on the mainboard if there's no switch.
Just like a PC.
Pins 6 and 8 on JFP1.
LTG : )
jumpstart (resized).jpgphoto 2 (resized).JPGyou need to bypass a light board. Find the last working one and bypass to the next board. Go into menu and disable that light board.
Quoted from Wanderers:what the problem could be and a solution.
This should help you :
Please check out page C-54 in the manual ( you can download it at jerseyjackpinball.com ) that page shows the data harness path. From W6 to #29, to #1, to #2, to #3, etc. etc.
Please go into Tests - LEDs - All LEDs, this turns any working all white. Lift playfield and lean on backbox. You can see the working ones kind of glow.
They are wired in series, a straight line. Find the last working one, the one after it that is out is the bad one. With the power on, you can by pass the data harnesses on the LED boards, bypass the bad one, and turn off in settings. ( be sure and turn it back on when you replace it ) this will help you identify a bad one.
As an example, say #15 was out. You can run the data harness from red on W2, to green on #16 instead of #15. If the rest light up, you know #15 is the bad one.
With the power on you can move data harnesses. They go red to green from board to board. Don't mess with the power connectors with the power on.
LTG : )
I have an issue where the winky drop target is stuck closed. We had WOZ on all day Christmas eve & there was no problem. Now the drop target does absolutely nothing & I checked underneath the playfield & all connections appear to be fine. Though this does make achieving rescue mutiball much easier, any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Quoted from Ockeyhead:any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Check the switch at the bottom of the drop target assembly. Could be loose or fell off. The tab on the drop target closes it going down and releases it going up.
LTG : )
Quoted from Ockeyhead:any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Here are pictures so you can compare to yours.
LTG : )
IMG_0436 (resized).JPGIMG_0437 (resized).JPGHow best to collect Horse of a Different Colour?
I find it a difficult shot.
A very fine tip from the lower left flipper or timing a back hand from the lower right flipper? Either way,it's tricky (for me).
When i compare this to lifting the mini flipper on TZ to make the shot under the mini playfield,Twilight is a walk in the park.
Quoted from chalkup8:How best to collect Horse of a Different Colour?
I find it a difficult shot.
A very fine tip from the lower left flipper or timing a back hand from the lower right flipper? Either way,it's tricky (for me).
When i compare this to lifting the mini flipper on TZ to make the shot under the mini playfield,Twilight is a walk in the park.
It is the hardest shot in the game because it can be so powerful. The best way to do it if the timing works out is to backhand the shot with two balls on the right flipper during multiball. You can sometimes get it from the left flipper, but you have to be spot on with your aim.
Quoted from darkryder:I'm still searching for a quality shooter rod for my WOZ RR. The colored balls I've seen don't impress me like the gold shooter ring on Hobbit or the Aztec coin on POTC. What are other WOZ owners using for custom shooter rods on their games? I just want to replace the plain black shooter knob with something that blends with the game and isn't tacky. Suggestions?
I like my Toto rod
FCF98742-F74A-42C7-91C1-872BDE70127C (resized).jpegQuoted from Nokoro:The best way to do it if the timing works out is to backhand the shot with two balls on the right flipper during multiball.
Thanks for the tip Nokoro I'll try that.
Quoted from arcadenerd925:Quoted from JOESCHALL:Thanks. I'll try that and get back.
Correct, thats what i think it is too. If it does that every time you turn the machine on then I assume the battery on the motherboard is dead.
Also, once you hit F2 and the BIOS screen loads, just look for "Save&Exit" (or something along those lines)
WOZ is now booting. I both jumpered the reset pins as suggested above and then tried the F2 key after hooking up a keyboard via a USB. After hitting F2, first I got a JJP screen, then a request for a password! (ummmm . . .). So I powered the game off; then when I powered the game on the machine booted and all was well. Thanks to Lloyd and others who replied.
Quoted from JOESCHALL:WOZ is now booting. I both jumpered the reset pins as suggested above and then tried the F2 key after hooking up a keyboard via a USB. After hitting F2, first I got a JJP screen, then a request for a password! (ummmm . . .). So I powered the game off; then when I powered the game on the machine booted and all was well. Thanks to Lloyd and others who replied.
I would suggest replacing the battery next time when your machine is booted.
Quoted from capguntrooper:I would suggest replacing the battery next time when your machine is booted.
Thanks much. Will do.
Happy New Year, first game played was Woz this morning. Somethings never change had chance to melt the witch but didn't. My success rate is probably less than 10% in melting her , but when I do I feel like I won the game.
Quoted from indybru:Happy New Year, first game played was Woz this morning. Somethings never change had chance to melt the witch but didn't. My success rate is probably less than 10% in melting her , but when I do I feel like I won the game.
I’ve only succeeded in melting her once, but luckily it was when I was hosting a holiday party, with a bunch of people around to see it! They are not pinheads so they didn’t realize it was a big deal, but I am glad I had witnesses.
Happy New Year!
Ok so I have noticed a few niggles with my WOZ.
1st number 3 LED isn't lighting up yellow, on the yellow brick road on the start of game play only when the game moves on and the rest of the GI LEDs start changing colour etc.
2nd when you have completed WIZARD and extra ball feature is called should the extra ball light be lit ( I think it should ) the LED extra ball does work as I have tried it in test mode.
In ordered test on the LEDs they seem to be out of sink on certain ones.
I have disconnected and bypassed single GI board 4 as its not working. Could this
be the reason I am having these issues?
Thankyou in advance to any one who has a lot more experience with this machine.
My Crystal Ball no longer displays anything.
Is there a trouble shooting guide for getting this back on line?
Quoted from fnosm:My Crystal Ball no longer displays anything.
Reseat SD card behind it. Reseat cable there and at motherboard. For a start.
LTG : )
Quoted from jasonbar:Anybody want this for a mod/topper/bottommer/sider/behinder?
Best behinder ever.
Hi!
I have a lightning problem with WOZ. I booted the game up today and suddenly I am missing half of the led-lightning on the playfield. More precisely it seems that leds #1-65, 67, 121, 126 and 140 (B) are out.
If I look at the chart for led boards on the manual, it seems that possible culprits are the small boards 15-17. For some reason board 16 seems to work however. Am I right to assume this?
Funny thing is that when I was testing the led-boards, for some reason the non-working leds started quite a lightshow with strange flickering. Have a look at the video:
What do you think - how should I proceed? When thinking about replacing the boards - are the small boards 15-17 similar to each other?
Thank you for any info!
Gutted thought I had LED problems again with my WOZ. On my GIs i only had tin man number 28 and a few others lit up ( like the photo )
Messed with bypasses etc for 2 hrs, nothing positive. Turned the machine off and on again, it worked perfect. Why?
Quoted from Wanderers:Gutted thought I had LED problems again with my WOZ. On my GIs i only had tin man number 28 and a few others lit up ( like the photo )
Messed with bypasses etc for 2 hrs, nothing positive. Turned the machine off and on again, it worked perfect. Why?
[quoted image]
You have a loose connector somewhere.
Hard to find.
Ok yes your definitely right, iv just had a few games and they have gone off again.
All I can put it down to is the board that the first grey wire is connected to ( the one that is under the foot of the ramp and goes off to 29)
Should I order another one ( board that is) ???
Quoted from Wanderers:Ok yes your definitely right, iv just had a few games and they have gone off again.
All I can put it down to is the board that the first grey wire is connected to ( the one that is under the foot of the ramp and goes off to 29)
Should I order another one ( board that is) ???
When I lost all of my lights like that, it was a loose connection at a back connection in the cabinet going to the power supply. Check all of those big connectors down in the cabinet.
Yes i have done that, it’s very intermittent either all on, a few on or nothing. It’s all pointing to a loose connection does any one have any idea which connection it could be. ?
Quoted from Nepi23:Hi!
I have a lightning problem with WOZ. I booted the game up today and suddenly I am missing half of the led-lightning on the playfield. More precisely it seems that leds #1-65, 67, 121, 126 and 140 (B) are out.
If I look at the chart for led boards on the manual, it seems that possible culprits are the small boards 15-17. For some reason board 16 seems to work however. Am I right to assume this?
Funny thing is that when I was testing the led-boards, for some reason the non-working leds started quite a lightshow with strange flickering. Have a look at the video:
What do you think - how should I proceed? When thinking about replacing the boards - are the small boards 15-17 similar to each other?
Thank you for any info!
I think my message might have got lost in the other light-related topic, any ideas on this one?
Quoted from Wanderers:Here is a photo of the problem I am having, yet I can turn the machine off and on again and all ok.
[quoted image]
That insert light that is on is on one of the boards very upstream in the chain. It is either a connection related to that board or perhaps something wrong with that board or the next one. Follow the trouble shooting tips in the manual.
I detached the wires from led-boards 15, 16 and 17 and then reattached them. It seems that the boards get light now, but there is some strange flicker going on. What might be a proper next step? Have a look at the video:
EDIT: seems like led-board 17 was broken. Had one little board in the goodie-bag and replaced it. Seems to work again.
Wow, awesome that JJP is tossing in a little led board in the goodie bag. I need to order a few more of those myself. Haven’t really lost one completely but often get one or two locked onto some wrong color. Since downstream boards not impacted the chip itself must be dying.
Anyone know those small boards just using WS2812 chips or something similar? Got a surface mount rework station for Christmas so might try repairing one on my own.
Quoted from merccat:Wow, awesome that JJP is tossing in a little led board in the goodie bag. I need to order a few more of those myself. Haven’t really lost one completely but often get one or two locked onto some wrong color. Since downstream boards not impacted the chip itself must be dying.
Anyone know those small boards just using WS2812 chips or something similar? Got a surface mount rework station for Christmas so might try repairing one on my own.
They are different than WS2812's (its not a 50/50 with the driver on the back of the LED). the drivers themselves are deprecated (A6281) and difficult to find (they also have a slug/pad in the middle underneath). If it's the LED itself that went bad you can replace it with something similar (I believe the original is EOL as well) discussed further here a few years back:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/led-driver-replacment
I know I am extremly late to the party but I just ordered my first pinball machine. I ordered a new Wizard of Oz-75th Anniversary LE fromMike at Automated. I am slowly working may way through this thread (currently on page 38 of 129) and hope to make it to the end before I take delivery. I have never seen this machine in person but have fallen in love with it based on videos and reviews I have seen online. I can't wait to play it!!!
Quoted from Gotfrogs:I know I am extremly late to the party but I just ordered my first pinball machine. I ordered a new Wizard of Oz-75th Anniversary LE fromMike at Automated. I am slowly working may way through this thread (currently on page 38 of 129) and hope to make it to the end before I take delivery. I have never seen this machine in person but have fallen in love with it based on videos and reviews I have seen online. I can't wait to play it!!!
Congrats and welcome!
Quoted from arcadenerd925:They are different than WS2812's (its not a 50/50 with the driver on the back of the LED). the drivers themselves are deprecated (A6281) and difficult to find (they also have a slug/pad in the middle underneath). If it's the LED itself that went bad you can replace it with something similar (I believe the original is EOL as well) discussed further here a few years back:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/led-driver-replacment
Dang. Might try just replacing the LED then, the driver sounds like unobtanium as well as a PIA with the slug.
Hi guys! So my monkey seems to have hard time picking the ball up from the playfield magnet. The behavior almost looks like
The playfield magnet is too strong or is not releasing the ball at the right time.
About 50-60% of the time the monkey comes down tries to crab the ball, the ball moves slightly but then does not get picked up by the monkey. I’ll try to post a video, but I think I remember someone else having the same issue.
I have dug around and scoured up quite a few articles on this topic but haven’t been able to find one for my particular issue.
Thank you
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