Thanks mountaingamer but this board is not listes there, I find the parts page to not very helpful in the past I needed a part that was not listed there either?

Anyone?

Parts are available from JJP.
Call them up.

Soulrider911, I just went through a similar issue w/ LED board #12, which is Winkie Guard left, GI, but mine was completely kaput, so most of the PF's lights were out.
The forum helped hold my hand through my fix, so I'll pay it forward:

My machine is an early build, an old 5V, so if yours is also 5V, the following applies:

Per p. C-51 of the manual, boards 1-31 are 15-0006-00 WOZ Single GI RGB LED Board.
I ordered this:
http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/Wizard-of-Oz-Parts/General-Illumination-board-5-Volt-.html
JJP promptly e-mailed me back to ask me which PCB # I wanted, as there some directionality to the bracket.

But, as others have posted, picking up the phone should get you quick results & better accuracy than we can provide.

Good luck!
-Jason

Nice ! I've had my WOZ for 5 months now, and I get to the witch fight quite often but haven't been able to complete it yet. I had one shot left once, and of course the ball decided it was the right time to drain.

I do hope it won't take me 3 years to get there as I'm hoping to do SOTR by then, but I haven't collected one single diamond so far, really need to get my stuff together and practice !

Narrow the outlanes, lower the slingshot power a little.

And award extra balls at scoring intervals.

Not much to go wrong. Magnetized balls. Or divots on the bottom "V" of the ball trough. Divots you can remove the trough, disassemble, file flat, clean, reassemble.

Or - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-16809 stick one of these in the end and be done with either problem.

LTG : )

Had this happen once, also the plunger was having a hard time dispensing a ball into the shooter lane. Balls were magnetized. New balls and all was perfect again.

Its just as Lloyd said, balls can get so magnetized they stick to the trough like glue!

Getting the plastic bottom piece solves it forever and you dont even have to remove the trough:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-16809

So my witch stopped going up. I see it trying to. I did a search and couldn't find much, just check alignment. Before I dive in does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks

Take the plastic cover off and see if it works then. Then figure out what is binding it. ( something bent a little )

LTG : )

Received my full 2.0 upgrade kit this week!

If I have only one complaint so far it was that the kit was not shipped as a 'warranty replacement' (classification) item and unfortunately us Canucks end up paying tax and handling on the full declared value which cost me an additional $70. Not cool when this is easily considered a necessity and not a 'nice to have'.

JJP, please keep this in mind when sending items to Canada. I don't mind paying where required by this is easily preventable when selecting the content type. This is what was done for me after my first warranty replacement item(s) were sent to me a couple of years ago.

Hopefully this helps others, ensure that you ask.

Make sure the led ribbons didn't come loose and maybe get hooked on the which mech?

I removed the cover and in test it only moves about 1/8" up and down. Nothing is hitting anything.

It looks plugged in well. If the ribbons was loose wouldn't the witch not move at all?

So I have small amount of movement, tests are green, what am I missing?
Thanks

Also just noticed that I can't get to "witch Target Left & Right" in test mode. Of the six boxes in witch test only the top two up/home, down/melted and bottom two volume/up, volume/down are accessible. I cannot toggle or get to the middle set target left & right.

Figured out the target test just by touching them.

Check the long screw rod the moves the witch up and down.

It has to be straight and centered.
If it's not centered well it doesn't work right and the sensors dont work.

It can be pushed around a bit without removal.

Did that and it's perfect. What I did was add a tiny amount of lithium to the top of the screw as it enters the motor and now it works. BUT is that ok to do, or did I screw up the motor? But it's now working. On a side note I added lithium to the monkey also as it started screaming noise from it.

Should be fine.

LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd,
My game sat for a year and a half in new in box before I received it, could that be the cause for the screw drives grinding?

I grease both threaded rods little each time I wax, about every 400 plays.

Use the same lithium grease.

Pinballgoddess just posted another 5 million score on her WOZ.

I have to get 4 million just to get on the board now

Yes, old grease could have been gumming up.

LTG : )

I have a couple of questions for WOZ owners. I am looking to trade my TWD Pro plus cash for a WOZ Standard Edition.

1. Are there any issues with the standard edition? I heard something about light boards. The guy I am looking to trade with says a few of the smaller boards and one of the larger boards were replaced.

2. Is 6800 a fair value for a HUO (second or third owner) standard edition WOZ with no issues?

3. Do you think WOZ would complement my Hobbit or would it be too similar? (I know a subjective question)

Thanks!

Light boards: YMMV, some have no issues whatsoever, others have many. Generally speaking, the ones that he replaced the busted ones with probably are the buffered ones (might want to check). In my case, once I got a few of those in there I havent had anything blow since. My .02, be realistic, go into this knowing that you may blow a few boards down the line. That being said, if you blow one, its not a big deal. Jumper around it and disable it in the config (then order a new one).

Price: Subjective and really depends on where you live, also depends on the condition/wear/tear.

IMHO, WOZ and Hobbit are completely different style games. Weather or not they would compliment each other is really dependent on your taste. I do think they would look pretty awesome next to each other. I will say this though, WOZ is very different than TWD.

Good luck!

Anyone ever have their crystal ball come unglued from where it sits?
Didn't get hit with a ball or knocked loose or anything, I don't think.
All the sudden it just isn't stuck in place anymore, and it wobbles whenever a ball goes by in that VUK.

Think I should just try to re-glue it or something?

I’m a second owner to a Emerald edition. I’ve had no issues with the light boards. 6500 would be a fantastic deal in this market. So, 6800 is not that far off. IMHO. I don’t think the Hobbit is similar. However, when playing JJ’s next to each other, the perception of the build will make them feel alike as all manufacturers games do. Something to keep in mind.

When WOZ was announced and made, I was so against it. I just thought is was a wrong stupid theme for a game. When it was at the Expo for the first time. I ate my words. It is a phenomenal masterpiece of game.

So 6800 is pretty good for a Standard edition? Jus want to make sure you are not talking about ECLE and I am comparing apples to apples.

Thanks!

Re-glue it.

Rare, but it happens.

LTG : )

I just re-glued mine with clear 5 min epoxy. Rock solid since.
There is a light ball track in it near the wireform now after thousands of plays. It cleans up nicely though and you cant see the ball track at all from the players perspective.

Thanks, guys!

Can you adjust the angle of view for the crystal ball?

Unfortunately no.
Its pinned by the attachment bolts.

You might be able to slot out the mounting holes to twist it slightly in one direction.

The other direction it hits the wireform.

Maybe warp the mounting plate?
To bend it up for taller players?

I just hunch down to read it.

I know that people say it's a dumb toy with no info on it, but I use it a lot.

Has anyone installed that mod ? It's a throne room lcd screen that does look really cool. My problem is the pictures make it look like the frame is obstructing the view of the right flipper, which might be annoying to play. I'm wondering if it's just the picture of if it is annoying.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1166-pixels-arcade-games/02108-woz-wizard-of-oz-wizard-28-inch-lcd-mod

With that mod I am guessing you no longer can look at the throne room light (flashing) to know when an award is ready to collect.

Looks really nice and professionally made.

I dont know how durable it is.

yep, that was the problem I saw with it too.

I found a nib red smoke witch mod that i probably wont need bc i sold my pin (may get another eventually) . If anyone is interested in one message me with a offer and i may part with it. Its a awesome mod that is hard to find and not being made at the moment and may not be made again.

Oh you are probably right I didnt think about that. Thanks !

Do it! Very different games, both are superb

89DAB4B5-FE73-4E5F-993B-B163F5DC6795 (resized).jpeg

completely different machines and game experience. The only similarities are quality of construction, excellent customer care from JJP and LTG as a tireless resource.

so I have 2 amateur questions that may have already been answered, but i need help, so here goes:
1. how do i know if I have the 2.0 lighting (7.5 boards) in my game? I assume if i have had issues in the past, then i dont have it?
2. the mechanism that pops up the ball to go to the left upper playfield started firing non stop, rebooting the game didnt help and i am not sure how to fix it. also the right lock for the ball lock seems to be doing it occasionally as well. They are acting like it does when looking for a ball when one gets stuck elsewhere, but that is not the case here.

2.0 has ethernet cables all over the underside of the playfield. Or check the current manual ( download from jerseyjackpinball.com ) and compare the line drawings of the old LED system or the 2.0 system.

Go over the optos in there. Dirty, broken wires, need replacing ?

LTG : )

Sounds like a wire fell off its connection somewhere.

WOZ is interesting, if there is a wire unplugged the game does interesting things like fire a coil non-stop.

Quick 5V vs. 7.5V question, please.

Shannan-

I have an older machine that is running the 5V boards: serial number 0196 ECLE.

I received a replacement Haunted Forest LED PCB (PN 15-000018-05) that I purchased from JJP.

Upon receipt, I noticed that it says 7.5V on it.
I did not find on JJP's site a 5V version of this PCB.

A quick Googlage shows that (dependent upon build date?), one can use up to 3 of the 7.5V PF LED PCBs on a 5V machine w/ nary an issue.
Sounds weird, so I wanted to confirm w/ the experts here before I plug it in & power it up.

Thanks!
-Jason

Hello

I have a Eclewoz, with a not working motherboard.

Does anyone know if I can just buy a similar MSI H61M-P31/W8 motherboard and install without problems?

The reason for my question is that on my original motherboard there is a label with a number corresponding to the number on the label of the usb stick. Does this mean that the original motherboard is unique and cannot easily be replaced?

Sorry if i missed any existing threads on this subject