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(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

6 years ago



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#6251 1 year ago

Wrong link

#6252 1 year ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

Now Im afraid of turning the game on after I just said this.

https://goo.gl/images/xELYjK

#6253 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

To all who have had light board issues, or researched it - what's the story on that now? I understand you can pay the $800 for all new boards, but what about games which are starting to fail? Do you still have to pay full price for each board, or do they do trade-ins, or what? I'm interested in re-acquiring and trying to weight my options. I don't mind doing the work at all, but I need to understand the material cost so I wouldn't lose my shirt. . thanks!

I have 9000+ plays on my game.
It's in near perfect shape.

Audits show well over a million flips on each flipper.

The game is not worn out by a long shot! It's a beast.

Because we love the game, I'm thinking of a partial restoration.

At this time as everything on the game is showing wear now and I want it to play like it did NIB.

I'm thinking of getting a populated playfield from JJP and dropping it in, plus a faster computer to get faster load times.

At the very least I'll get the 2.0 boardset and install the new mainboard and i5 CPU.

#6254 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I have 9000+ plays on my game.
It's in near perfect shape.
Audits show well over a million flips on each flipper.
The game is not worn out by a long shot! It's a beast.
Because we love the game, I'm thinking of a partial restoration.
At this time as everything on the game is showing wear now and I want it to play like it did NIB.
I'm thinking of getting a populated playfield from JJP and dropping it in, plus a faster computer to get faster load times.
At the very least I'll get the 2.0 boardset and install the new mainboard and i5 CPU.

Thanks for the responses guys! I’m potentially looking at a game which already has issues, so I’m not asking “how likely is it to fail?” so much as “what’s it going to cost me?”

#6255 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Thanks for the responses guys! I’m potentially looking at a game which already has issues, so I’m not asking “how likely is it to fail?” so much as “what’s it going to cost me?”

If I found a game with issues for sale, and that was the reason for the sale, I wouldnt hesitate to get it.
Depending on price.
If it was a low play ECLEWOZ definitely get it.

The game is a beast, easy to fix and maintain compared to other games, once you get the hang of it all.

#6256 1 year ago

This is a bit of a repeat but might help someone else in their decision regarding their lighting issue or it will completely confuse the poor individual

As the 2.0 kits are currently, and at available at a reduced price, I have just ordered one. Others are completely right in justifying the cost right now. I purchased my ECLE 8 months used, back in the day, and eventually had light issues with a single board here and there and then a few more etc... I had an opportunity to get a complete 5V buffered set from JJP and moved on it. Replaced everything and sent the old ones back, essentially just covered one way of shipping (thank you JJP). I have had zero issues to date but have been recently looking at options for the future as I will keep a WOZ in my collection.

I will get the kit and if I don't have to send the old boards back, I will just sit on it for a bit. Some have suggested installing the 2.0, document that the older boards are still functional and sell them used to recoup some cash, great idea!

I am also now looking at new and used 2.0 WOZ options. I have checked with a couple of Canadian distributors and there are currently no WOZ pins available until the new year, production on hold due to POTC being run etc... I might list mine locally up until Christmas to see if anyone is interested, with or without the 2.0 kit as it is completely functional as is. Curious to see what the delta on selling and purchasing a replacement (and newer edition WOZ) would be. If it is feasible then why not, if not I just stay with what I have and keep on truckin'.

That said, I noticed in pictures from the Chicago Expo that at least one distributor had a new WOZ at a reduced show price of $9K USD ($495 saving). Does anyone know if this price is still being offered somewhere?

A used 2.0 pin would be of interest as well, especially if closer to me; IE: Michigan, states side or almost anywhere this side of the border.

#6257 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I have 9000+ plays on my game.
It's in near perfect shape...
...I'm thinking of getting a populated playfield from JJP and dropping it in, plus a faster computer to get faster load times.
At the very least I'll get the 2.0 boardset and install the new mainboard and i5 CPU.

Holy heck! What would a completely populated PF field run you? With the list of things you have summarized, why not just sell it and find another? (unless you were a day 1 owner at the $6K or $6500K price, then that might explain it.

#6258 1 year ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Does anyone know if this price is still being offered somewhere?

Maybe that was Chris at KingPin Games - https://www.kingpingames.net/ he posts here as kingpingames.

Great guy, contact him.

LTG : )

#6259 1 year ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Holy heck! What would a completely populated PF field run you? With the list of things you have summarized, why not just sell it and find another? (unless you were a day 1 owner at the $6K or $6500K price, then that might explain it.

Good lord! I’m curious what the price on that is too

#6260 1 year ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Holy heck! What would a completely populated PF field run you? With the list of things you have summarized, why not just sell it and find another? (unless you were a day 1 owner at the $6K or $6500K price, then that might explain it.

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Good lord! I’m curious what the price on that is too

I paid in full years before it was built and received it about 4 months into production.

It has the latest board set prior to 2.0.

I have had zero large board failures but lost 3 single led boards.

I have replaced 6 castle motors.

I have rebuilt the flippers 4 times each.

I have replaced the sparkly flipper bats twice.

I replaced the right castle door the last time I put a motor in. It was pretty beat up but not ruined.

Last week I replaced both flipper bushings they were both broken (probably for awhile).

1.5 million and 1.3 million flipper cycles in the audits.

The game plays perfectlty and looks new. But it lacks the crispness of a NIB game.

I'm weighing the price of restoration vs playfield replacement.

The game hasn't moved since I set it up. It gets about 5 or 7 plays a day.

Most interesting is that pinballgoddess is complaining that the flippers are too strong and the game is faster after the bushings were replaced lol.
They must have been broken for awhile and I didnt catch it.

One other thing of note, she very much prefers perfect play flipper rubbers on this game. I have all of the available types and if I put the wrong ones I hear about it immediately lol

#6261 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I paid in full years before it was built and received it about 4 months into production.
It has the latest board set prior to 2.0.
I have had zero large board failures but lost 3 single led boards.
I have replaced 6 castle motors.
I have rebuilt the flippers 4 times each.
I have replaced the sparkly flipper bats twice.
I replaced the right castle door the last time I put a motor in. It was pretty beat up but not ruined.
Last week I replaced both flipper bushings they were both broken (probably for awhile).
1.5 million and 1.3 million flipper cycles in the audits.
The game plays perfectlty and looks new. But it lacks the crispness of a NIB game.
I'm weighing the price of restoration vs playfield replacement.
The game hasn't moved since I set it up. It gets about 5 or 7 plays a day.
Most interesting is that pinballgoddess is complaining that the flippers are too strong and the game is faster after the bushings were replaced lol.
They must have been broken for awhile and I didnt catch it.
One other thing of note, she very much prefers perfect play flipper rubbers on this game. I have all of the available types and if I put the wrong ones I hear about it immediately lol

Just wondering, if the game plays perfectly and looks new is it worth the trouble and expense to do what you’re proposing? I’d do what I could in tweaks and adjustments to get that crispness back as much as possible, and just play the game into the ground. Otherwise I would just sell your game and get another - you should be able to get good return on a game in condition like yours. Just my 2 cents worth...

#6262 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I paid in full years before it was built and received it about 4 months into production.
It has the latest board set prior to 2.0.
I have had zero large board failures but lost 3 single led boards.
I have replaced 6 castle motors.
I have rebuilt the flippers 4 times each.
I have replaced the sparkly flipper bats twice.
I replaced the right castle door the last time I put a motor in. It was pretty beat up but not ruined.
Last week I replaced both flipper bushings they were both broken (probably for awhile).
1.5 million and 1.3 million flipper cycles in the audits.
The game plays perfectlty and looks new. But it lacks the crispness of a NIB game.
I'm weighing the price of restoration vs playfield replacement.
The game hasn't moved since I set it up. It gets about 5 or 7 plays a day.
Most interesting is that pinballgoddess is complaining that the flippers are too strong and the game is faster after the bushings were replaced lol.
They must have been broken for awhile and I didnt catch it.
One other thing of note, she very much prefers perfect play flipper rubbers on this game. I have all of the available types and if I put the wrong ones I hear about it immediately lol

Thanks for posting the information. That seems like a very reliable game after 9000+ plays, wow. I've been debating on ordering the 2.0 kit (have a 7.5v game) but after reading your post I'll likely hold off. Other owners with 7.5v light boards game have reported them to be very reliable and the few that I've read that have had problems have only had to replace a single LED light board. Nearly every owner of a WOZ with 7.5v light boards I've heard from hasn't had a light board issue.

For those that have games with 7.5v boards I would recommend using Wizards Mist N Shine wax. JJP has recommended it and supposedly it reduces playfield static buildup that can lead to light boards failing. I now use it on all my games.

amazon.com link »

#6263 1 year ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

I have one of the earliest Woz's. Over a thousand + games ....I have replaced very few boards in 3 years. One fish board (W1) very early on and 4 small light boards.
Once I got the new buffer boards (5v) over 2 years ago and hundreds of play, I have not had any other light board issues. Now whether they fail in the future is anyones guess. I remember speaking with Eric (JJP engineer...and now designer!) years ago, he felt very confident with the daughter buffer boards, game would remain solid. In over two years...no lightboard issues..FWIW.
Now Im afraid of turning the game on after I just said this.

Well, the guy I bought mine from 3 weeks ago said he had been sent and installed those fixes but at least one of these has failed with less than 30 plays since acquisition.

My personal opinion is JJP should be standing by fixing all of these early run games at mimimal cost (not $800) given their manufacturing mistakes created the situation for early and subsequent owners but I digress.

#6264 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I paid in full years before it was built and received it about 4 months into production.
It has the latest board set prior to 2.0.
I have had zero large board failures but lost 3 single led boards.
I have replaced 6 castle motors.
I have rebuilt the flippers 4 times each.
I have replaced the sparkly flipper bats twice.
I replaced the right castle door the last time I put a motor in. It was pretty beat up but not ruined.
Last week I replaced both flipper bushings they were both broken (probably for awhile).
1.5 million and 1.3 million flipper cycles in the audits.
The game plays perfectlty and looks new. But it lacks the crispness of a NIB game.
I'm weighing the price of restoration vs playfield replacement.
The game hasn't moved since I set it up. It gets about 5 or 7 plays a day.
Most interesting is that pinballgoddess is complaining that the flippers are too strong and the game is faster after the bushings were replaced lol.
They must have been broken for awhile and I didnt catch it.
One other thing of note, she very much prefers perfect play flipper rubbers on this game. I have all of the available types and if I put the wrong ones I hear about it immediately lol

Here is an idea. Get a Woz playfield cleared by kruzman and do a restore with that. Ive always wondered how the game would play with a high end clear.

#6265 1 year ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

Ok. Thank you. I'm out now but will try to figure if those things work when I get back or tomorrow morning.

Dont worry too much about it, it’s not very hard to fix and you will quickly learn how to diagnose fast and fix faster.

I freaked out on my brand new WOZ where a bunch of small gi boards died within the first 2 weeks. I replaced them, had one more dead right after, fixed it and havent had any single issue with leds after that.

During that time JJP support has been nothing but awesome which in the long run is what really matters.

#6266 1 year ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

Just wondering, if the game plays perfectly and looks new is it worth the trouble and expense to do what you’re proposing? I’d do what I could in tweaks and adjustments to get that crispness back as much as possible, and just play the game into the ground. Otherwise I would just sell your game and get another - you should be able to get good return on a game in condition like yours. Just my 2 cents worth...

I'm also considering a playfield swap and rebuilding every single mech to new. The 2.0 update would be part of the restoration as well as replacing both mini playfields and a total rebuild of the castle pf.
There is a lot to consider...

Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Thanks for posting the information. That seems like a very reliable game after 9000+ plays, wow. I've been debating on ordering the 2.0 kit (have a 7.5v game) but after reading your post I'll likely hold off. Other owners with 7.5v light boards game have reported them to be very reliable and the few that I've read that have had problems have only had to replace a single LED light board. Nearly every owner of a WOZ with 7.5v light boards I've heard from hasn't had a light board issue.
For those that have games with 7.5v boards I would recommend using Wizards Mist N Shine wax. JJP has recommended it and supposedly it reduces playfield static buildup that can lead to light boards failing. I now use it on all my games.
amazon.com link »

I wax every 350 plays with P21S.
I remove ball tracks with novus 2 and lighter fluid as a dewaxer.
I change out the rubber every 2 years or 4000 plays so it plays like new.
I change balls after each big wax job.

I use mist n shine for between waxing cleanings.

Quoted from lordloss:

Here is an idea. Get a Woz playfield cleared by kruzman and do a restore with that. Ive always wondered how the game would play with a high end clear.

If I fo the total rebuild, this is what I will do.

#6267 1 year ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

Well, the guy I bought mine from 3 weeks ago said he had been sent and installed those fixes but at least one of these has failed with less than 30 plays since acquisition.
My personal opinion is JJP should be standing by fixing all of these early run games at mimimal cost (not $800) given their manufacturing mistakes created the situation for early and subsequent owners but I digress.

Few manufacturers if any warrant past the original purchaser.

Stern gives you 90 days period.

JJP is at least a year. Its way more than fair. They also offered 1/2 price exchanges on boards for out of warranty repairs.
I think they are very good and have set the standard for other manufacturers to follow.

Recently CGC has gone to a 2 year warranty on LE models. But only for the original purchaser.

#6268 1 year ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

Well, the guy I bought mine from 3 weeks ago said he had been sent and installed those fixes but at least one of these has failed with less than 30 plays since acquisition.
My personal opinion is JJP should be standing by fixing all of these early run games at mimimal cost (not $800) given their manufacturing mistakes created the situation for early and subsequent owners but I digress.

I don't disagree as far as wishing that jjp offered a better deal on games with at least the 5v boards or even the 7.5 bds. The point of my post was more along the lines of dispelling the notion that all early games without the 2.0 sysytems had serious light board issues. I think the buffered boards helped stop a lot of light board problems.
Also early on, jjp was giving light boards out for free. They then went to still offering boards free when you sent back the failed board. So in my mind, jjp stood by early manufacturing problems in a very good business way.

#6269 1 year ago

Yep - JJPs always been fantastic to customers. Jumper around and disable your bad board, and enjoy the amazing game!

#6270 1 year ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Thanks for posting the information. That seems like a very reliable game after 9000+ plays, wow. I've been debating on ordering the 2.0 kit (have a 7.5v game) but after reading your post I'll likely hold off. Other owners with 7.5v light boards game have reported them to be very reliable and the few that I've read that have had problems have only had to replace a single LED light board. Nearly every owner of a WOZ with 7.5v light boards I've heard from hasn't had a light board issue.
For those that have games with 7.5v boards I would recommend using Wizards Mist N Shine wax. JJP has recommended it and supposedly it reduces playfield static buildup that can lead to light boards failing. I now use it on all my games.
amazon.com link »

I had 7.5v boards and used Mist N Shine. After two large boards and a a single board failed I installed the 2.0 board set.

#6271 1 year ago
Quoted from adol75:

During that time JJP support has been nothing but awesome which in the long run is what really matters.

I can vouch for that !! Bought NIB Aug 2017 WOZ 75.

Four light boards failed.OZ lane sling rubber broke early.Right castle door not opening.Speaker hum fix(local $12 part from electronics store Jaycar)

Once I worked through those bugs with the friendly help from JJP, the game has been solid.I love stepping up to it now.

#6272 1 year ago
Quoted from chalkup8:

I can vouch for that !! Bought NIB Aug 2017 WOZ 75.
Speaker hum fix(local $12 part from electronics store Jaycar)

What was the part you bought to fix speaker hum? Thanks

#6273 1 year ago
Quoted from zutton1:

What was the part you bought to fix speaker hum? Thanks

amazon.com link »

LTG : )

#6274 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

amazon.com link »
LTG : )

The 'pink' outlet on the sound amplifier board or J2 is where I was told to run the ground loop isolator,works like a charm.

#6275 1 year ago
Quoted from mountaingamer:

Yep - JJPs always been fantastic to customers. Jumper around and disable your bad board, and enjoy the amazing game!

I have only accomplished that (killing the witch) once in the 2 years I’ve owned this thing. I was also jumping up and down and waving my arms around - like some kind of little crazy kid. How fun!!!!

#6276 1 year ago
Quoted from SDpinballer:

I have only accomplished that (killing the witch) once in the 2 years I’ve owned this thing. I was also jumping up and down and waving my arms around - like some kind of little crazy kid. How fun!!!!

I have only killed the witch once. But, luckily, it was during my Xmas party with many people there to see it!

Of course it probably helped because my nephew was reading the screen telling me which shots to hit. But the fact that I actually hit the shots as he called them out was amazing.

WOZ is awesome.

#6277 1 year ago

Totally agree... it’s a goal that is accomplishable yet very challenging to reach, the buildup to it is fantastic (battle the wicked witch mode), and the payoff is glorious!

My all time favorite goal (and mode) in pinball by a long shot!

#6278 1 year ago

I’ve beat her a few times but usually flail - the music during battle the witch is just perfect but stresses me out and I usually drain where I normally wouldn’t. My daughter in the video has done it many times and made it to sotr

#6279 1 year ago

Thanks for all the helpful helpers' help!

Ordered a new little light board from JJP.
Figured I'd order 2, as one went out on the previous owner years ago, & might as well have a spare & save on shipping.
Super easy fix.
Wow, #12 GI PCB light (Winkie Target Left) hardly even shows! :\

Minor gripe:
Shipping was $14.20 for UPS Ground on a 0.8-pound fist-sized package & took 7 days to arrive.
USPS First Class package would have cost $5.50 & taken 3-4 days.
And the 2 PCBs, while well protected from the outside world, were jammed together in a baggie w/ no protection from each other.

Thanks,
-Jason

Quoted from jasonbar:

Howdy-
I've got my first (I think) light board weirdness.
I've had the occasional light glitching/sticking/off, always solved by a reset.
Today, for about 3 hard resets, I got the same behavior. Only a few PF lights are on.
The image shows self-test "All LEDs on-white"
Looks as if only light boards W6, 29, 179, 178, & 176 are working, if I'm reading the map correctly.
Per the manual map, W6's connection is "from I/O", but I don't see where it goes next in the chain.

#6280 1 year ago
Quoted from chalkup8:

I can vouch for that !! Bought NIB Aug 2017 WOZ 75.
Four light boards failed.OZ lane sling rubber broke early.Right castle door not opening.Speaker hum fix(local $12 part from electronics store Jaycar)
Once I worked through those bugs with the friendly help from JJP, the game has been solid.I love stepping up to it now.

Oh yes, I forgot the hum in my list ! Probably the worst issue of all, and the fastest to fix . It was a good surprise though, although loosing the hum just made me focus more on the fan noise. Changing the fans is my next scheduled project, that noise is really annoying for home use, especially with the pin in my dining room !

#6281 1 year ago
Quoted from adol75:

Oh yes, I forgot the hum in my list ! Probably the worst issue of all, and the fastest to fix . It was a good surprise though, although loosing the hum just made me focus more on the fan noise. Changing the fans is my next scheduled project, that noise is really annoying for home use, especially with the pin in my dining room !

Move the fan inside the silver box. Usually they fit, if not just get a skinnier PC fan.

90% reduction of noise.

#6282 1 year ago

I need your advice on my leg levels. I just got the pinguy levelling app, set angle at 6.5, did the calibration until I got the perfectly aligned message.

I ended up moving the back too a much higher level, almost at the end of the screw, where the fronts are quite low. It seems odd to me so I wonder if I did something wrong on the way.

Here's a picture of my front and back legs, any help appreciated (as always !)

image_67152129 (resized).JPGimage_67190017 (resized).JPG
#6283 1 year ago

You leveled on the playfield right?

Not on the glass, never on the glass.

The adjusters look ok to me.

I have my woz at 6.3 degrees. I think it plays correctly there, after dialling in all of the settings, and the ball is still fast.

I take the nuts off the front levelers and put them on the top of the screw, or leave them off.

This way you can get the fronts down a little more.

#6284 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

You leveled on the playfield right?
Not on the glass, never on the glass.
The adjusters look ok to me.
I have my woz at 6.3 degrees. I think it plays correctly there, after dialling in all of the settings, and the ball is still fast.
I take the nuts off the front levelers and put them on the top of the screw, or leave them off.
This way you can get the fronts down a little more.

Yes I levelled on the playfield at 6.5. I played a couple games, it does feel much better I must say.

Thanks

#6285 1 year ago

Mine is also right about 6.3. Plays really nice there. Front legs way down and backs way up too. The pics look very similar to my set up.

#6286 1 year ago
Quoted from SDpinballer:

Mine is also right about 6.3. Plays really nice there. Front legs way down and backs way up too. The pics look very similar to my set up.

I've played around 30 games with my now levelled WOZ, it may sound like pushing open doors, but the change in gameplay is impressive. I'm very happy I did that, and want to thank pin guy for that great levelling app.

I can now swap the ball between the flippers with ease, the throne room is easier to reach, same with the B from Ball on the left side. Also I'm more successful at getting the skill shot in the haunted forest. All together the lower part of the playfield is now much more playable.

My pinball has been installed 4 months ago by a "professional", so I've always assumed they did the setup properly. That was a mistake, lesson learned !

#6287 1 year ago
Quoted from adol75:

I've played around 30 games with my now levelled WOZ, it may sound like pushing open doors, but the change in gameplay is impressive. I'm very happy I did that, and want to thank pin guy for that great levelling app.
I can now swap the ball between the flippers with ease, the throne room is easier to reach, same with the B from Ball on the left side. Also I'm more successful at getting the skill shot in the haunted forest. All together the lower part of the playfield is now much more playable.
My pinball has been installed 4 months ago by a "professional", so I've always assumed they did the setup properly. That was a mistake, lesson learned !

Was it too flat or not leveled side to side?

#6288 1 year ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Was it too flat or not leveled side to side?

It was too flat by a wide margin and very slightly tilted to the right.

#6289 1 year ago

I think most WOZ detractors whom have played it got stuck playing one not leveled properly. Some games can handle being somewhat out of level and play pretty good. WOZ is pretty sensitive to leveling and can be a totally different game when not leveled.

#6290 1 year ago

Maybe I need to look more closely,but can someone tell me where the adjustment for the witches feet on the spinning house is?
thanks.

#6292 1 year ago

Thanks zutton1 the spinning house is the feet adjust as well.

#6293 1 year ago

Yes when you adjust the house correct the feet will pop out all the way there’s a pin which pushes up to make feet come down if that is not centered feet will only pop out half way most times.

#6294 1 year ago
Quoted from merccat:

I think most WOZ detractors whom have played it got stuck playing one not leveled properly. Some games can handle being somewhat out of level and play pretty good. WOZ is pretty sensitive to leveling and can be a totally different game when not leveled.

I think that all modern pins that have a lot of modes and gadgets need to be carefully leveled to work right.

#6295 1 year ago
Quoted from merccat:

I think most WOZ detractors whom have played it got stuck playing one not leveled properly. Some games can handle being somewhat out of level and play pretty good. WOZ is pretty sensitive to leveling and can be a totally different game when not leveled.

More than 100 games in now I couldnt agree more with you. It’s like I’m rediscovering my game and now feel SOTR is actually doable.

JJP should put a big note on the box stating how crucial levelling is.

#6296 1 year ago

I haven't played WOZ in a few months (with all of the updates on TH and DI holding my interest). Played it tonight to test out a mod and battled the witch twice in one game and beat her on the second attempt for my first time ever - we've had the pin for about 3.5 years. That felt great and was cool to finally see that fanfare. What's after that? The encore multiball (whatever that is called) after beating the witch had a bunch of lights flashing different colors on the inserts and I shot for and got a few of the white diamonds, but I didn't know what I should do at that point. After that multi-ball, it went back to normal. Never really payed attention to all the hoopla about it before as I had to beat the witch as my short term goal. What a rush! Now my wife is pouting because she had the grand champ score for the last few months and I went past her score. She just has to try some more.

#6297 1 year ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I haven't played WOZ in a few months (with all of the updates on TH and DI holding my interest). Played it tonight to test out a mod and battled the witch twice and beat her on the second attempt for my first time ever. That felt great and was cool to finally see that fanfare. What's after that? The encore multiball (whatever that is called) after beating the witch had a bunch of lights flashing different colors on the inserts and I shot for and got a few of the white diamonds, but I didn't know what I should do at that point. After that multi-ball, it went back to normal. Never really payed attention to all the hoopla about it before as I had to beat the witch as my short term goal. What a rush! Now my wife is pouting because she had the grand champ score for the last few months and I went past her score. She just has to try some more.

Congrats!

The victory laps mode after melting the witch is just a five ball multiball where all shots are lit for jackpots. The jackpot value decreases for as long as you hold in a flipper button. So you kind of want to play it like no hold flippers. It is really fun, and a great reward for finishing off the witch.

#6298 1 year ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Congrats!
The victory laps mode after melting the witch is just a five ball multiball where all shots are lit for jackpots. The jackpot value decreases for as long as you hold in a flipper button. So you kind of want to play it like no hold flippers. It is really fun, and a great reward for finishing off the witch.

Ah, okay, that makes sense with what I saw. Thanks for the explanation.

#6299 1 year ago

Was working on my WOZ yesterday and noticed I think I have a bad LED board? IT is WAAY dimmer than the others and it flickers every now and then to brighter. Pretty sure its bad? How do I go about ordering a new one? Thanks guys

You can see it compared to another here:
LED (resized).png

Looks to be LED #116 Left Orbit High GI
IMG_7138 (resized).png

#6300 1 year ago

You can order replacements directly from their site - 5 or 7.5v.
http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/Wizard-of-Oz-Parts/

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