Are there any other switches showing incorrectly open or closed in the switch tests? I would test every other switch that is in the same row and column as that opto.

I've never noticed it before, as in I can't tell if it always was like that or appeared recently, but at the intersection of the 2 ramps, the ball on the lower ramp slightly rubs on the bottom of the top ramp, it slows down the ball a bit.

Can you tell me if you have the same on yours, if not I guess I'm in for adding a washer to lift the top one up.

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I just pulled up on the upper one slightly so that it clears the ball by 1/16" or so. Easy adjustment.

You could also push down on the lower one. Or maybe a a little bit of both.

My witch is stuck between up and down and she will not move. Now I have to figure out how to trouble shoot that.

Take the plastic cover off first and see if it's binding on that.

LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd, I will check that this afternoon.

I have posted this before, but a few members have asked me and for those that have played my machine always ask how my fan is so quiet. Its easy, just move it inside case, just make sure to face it the right direction and make sure the wires do not touch blades. It will fit snuggly, but cut down on the noise A LOT. Hope that helps

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The plastic cover is off of the witch. No movement from the witch. Right now she is either all the way up, or close to it. When I am in the the matrixed switch test, the witch up(22) and down(23) optos, as well as the throne room(15) opto, appear as active. All of the switches in the throne room column and row function just fine. All of the switches in the witch up and down optos column function fine.

Why won’t she move????? .

No power to motor. Bad motor. I'd start there.

LTG : )

I wondered why they did this. The fan fits perfectly well inside the box just like any other PC power supply cooling fan.

Anyone fix castle doors that arent working? Any help? The right door seems to get stuck.

Listen to it, if the motor is whirring and door not moving, the two set screws holding the motor to the door shaft are loose.

LTG : )

I have an early edition standard game, old light boards. Between games all the leds on the right side of the game went out, scarecrow, Toto, rainbow, wizard, lion. Everything left of the yellow brick road still works fine. I would assume this isn’t the boards individually but the main lighting board, any ideas?

Wrong.

Please check out page C-54 in the manual ( you can download it at jerseyjackpinball.com ) that page shows the data harness path. From W6 to #29, to #1, to #2, to #3, etc. etc.

Please go into Tests - LEDs - All LEDs, this turns any working all white. Lift playfield and lean on backbox. You can see the working ones kind of glow.

They are wired in series, a straight line. Find the last working one, the one after it that is out is the bad one. With the power on, you can by pass the data harnesses on the LED boards, bypass the bad one, and turn off in settings. ( be sure and turn it back on when you replace it ) this will help you identify a bad one.

As an example, say #15 was out. You can run the data harness from red on W2, to green on #16 instead of #15. If the rest light up, you know #15 is the bad one.

With the power on you can move data harnesses. They go red to green from board to board. Don't mess with the power connectors with the power on.

LTG : )

Might be a loose cable. Refresh all the cable connections and see if it fixes it.

Or like LTG says its a bad led board. Probably one of the small ones possibly more.

I had 2 out at the same time once.

Read the manual and follow it exactly to remove the castle playfied.

It looks difficult but it's not at all.

Examine the motor, screws and all of the associated parts.

The motor is either slipping due to loose screws (add blue locctite if so) or its worn out.

Not too hard to replace if you take your time.

That was it, 2 and 22 were bad. Appears to be they are pretty cheap to replace too. Thanks.

Today I narrowed the right outlane to the easy setting, I've put probably too much considerations and remorse in doing this, feeling I wasn't up to the game. Truth is that machine is so heavy that nudging it takes a semi-truck force, and I was loosing way too many balls on that outlane, which was both frustrating and exciting.

So I decided to go for the easy route and I'm very happy with it, less frustration, more game, getting closer to SOTR and still losing a bunch of balls in that outlane.

This was my confession of the day !

Dont feel bad, I did the same thing after about a month

It's funny that you mention it. I am having the same struggle right now. Getting closer to tightening the outlane myself. I thought I was the only one...

Those outlanes are brutal. Put both of mine on easy after a month or two as well. I’ve since put the right outlane back to default and am considering putting the left one back as well.

So you put back the right one to normal. Interesting I did the exact opposite. I find the right outlane to be unfair, I lose a lot of balls on it after hitting the witch or the right bumper.

Balls shooting out of the pops and straight out the right outlane is probably the cheapest way to lose a ball in WOZ. I recommend setting the pops in the settings to allow the player to press both flipper buttons to stop them when desired, not just when haunted modes are lit. It gives the user more control and puts some skill into when to have the pops be a factor in the game.

The tree just tried to protect the witch ...

Mine came with the manual too manufacture date of 2-17-17

I bought my RR, nib, 10-14, low number. They gave a cd for instructions. Had to pay to have it copied to a book. Still very happy with mine.

Same here, but I purchased manual. Worthwhile investment!

A manual is always a worthwhile investment. This one is huge.

I thought all RR editions were supposed to come with the printed manual. Mine did.

Again, they only started including a printed manual when they bumped the price up $500 and also included Invisiglass too. Before that both were options on RRs, this has been covered more than once in this thread.

Mine had invisiglass , no manual 10-94. Ruby Red.Mine was $8500 , free shipping.Automated.

Different distributors included different options at different prices at different times, still do. There was an official price bump from JJP three years ago that also included these two items as part of the price bump:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-500-price-increase#post-2581155

Hi All.

What is the next 2.0 edition of WOZ? I hear that WOZ production has been halted for POTC and will resume around January.

Ding dong, the pin is dead.

Please help diagnose:

On power-on, I hear the amp pop & 1 quiet fan is spinning, but the PF remains dark, nothing moves on the PF, & the monitor starts blinking "NO SIGNAL INPUT" after a few seconds.

Opening up reveals:
Fuse in front AC input power supply box not blown.
Power supply at front of PC box puts out 24V.
All fuses on big driver PCB on the left have their red LEDs on.
5 green LEDs lit on the small right Pinnovators audio/video PCB.
Fan on graphics card/mother board (?) isn't spinning.
Fan in back of cabinet isn't spinning.
I *think* the fan on the left side of the PCB box might be spinning--I can't see it well--I don't feel air moving, but it sounds as if some fan somewhere is spinning, & I can see that the other 2 aren't.

Thank you!
-Jason

Have you tried hitting the reset switch in the big metal box with the boards with the power on ?, if your game has one. If not with the power on briefly short pins 6 and 8 on JFP1 on the motherboard.

LTG : )

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I had something similar happen to me today. Hit the switch and nothing. Lifted playfield and noticed a white wire just sitting near the back. Turns out when I lifted the playfield last something pulled the wire from the power plug. Plugged back in and I was good.
This may not be your problem but I never had this happen and wanted to put it out there.

Yes there is a small connector way at the end of the playfield, right near the rear edge that if disconnected, the game wont start.

Good info my game is still dead and wondering what to do. Was going to call support again as othet methods are not working at all can't get the keyboard to even get power. That connector?
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It's a good start to see if anything is unplugged but those look ok.

Check around for a loose cable.
Unfortunately it could be anywhere.

If you haven't pressed the reset or grounded the reset pins on the mainboard I would start there.

Your photo is on the playfield. The wire I was referring to is on the back of the back inside of the cabinet. Where the power cord comes in from the outside.

Lloyd for president (or for whatever office you may be pursuing). You have my vote.
Or, if you've got a favorite charity, I'll throw a few $ at them in your honor.

Reset button in the electronics box near the front did the trick (fortunately, it's labeled clearly: "RESET").
Saw a purple Ubuntu screen for a bit on the first boot after hitting the reset switch, but then all nominal for a few games & power cycles.

Please explain, or please point me to where I can read more: what was wrong, & what exactly is being reset when I push this reset switch?

Thanks!
-Jason

PS--thanks for writing your reply with small, simple words so that I could understand it easily. :]

The motherboard in this case is nothing more than a standard PC motherboard minus the typical computer case. Basically all modern PC motherboards have no physical power switch, this allows them shut down gracefully as needed by modern operating systems.

Because pinball has a physical power switch another component was introduced to help the pc motherboard shut down in a way closer to what it expects if it were in a normal environment.... but sometimes things still get outta whack and you need to hit reset. Most commonly this happens with rapidly turning the game on and off.

Thank you for taking the time to explain--this makes sense!

-Jason

Thanks I knew I was off but not sure where to look

merccat gave a good write up. Can on rare occasion just happen. Or if you turn the game on, and turn off before it's fully powered up can do the problem to.

My pleasure. I'm old school, one button, PHD, push here dummy.

LTG : )

My Winkie Guard drop target fires in test mode but stays down the entire game all of a sudden. Spring is still in connected.
Thoughts.......?

Is the switch still attached to the mech?

Is it loose and need tightening?

is the switch arm on the mech clicking and does it click when the target is down?

You might just have to turn the switch until it clicks properly when its supposed to and tighten it if its loose.

Thanks for the input.
Switch is attached and tight
How would I turn the switch until it clicks properly?

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Here’s a top view.

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