(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

4 years ago



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  • 6,169 posts
  • 406 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by arcadenerd925
  • Topic is favorited by 184 Pinsiders

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There are 6170 posts in this topic. You are on page 124 of 124.
#6151 7 days ago
Quoted from Ricmaz:

If this has been covered before, forgive me. I’m trying to troubleshoot my Throne Room opto. Machine thinks there is a ball in there all the time. Took both sides off of the bracket and held them right across from one another, and it still thinks there is a something between them. Anything else to do before I replace the opto?
Thanks for any suggestions.

Are there any other switches showing incorrectly open or closed in the switch tests? I would test every other switch that is in the same row and column as that opto.

#6152 6 days ago

I've never noticed it before, as in I can't tell if it always was like that or appeared recently, but at the intersection of the 2 ramps, the ball on the lower ramp slightly rubs on the bottom of the top ramp, it slows down the ball a bit.

Can you tell me if you have the same on yours, if not I guess I'm in for adding a washer to lift the top one up.

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#6153 6 days ago
Quoted from adol75:

I've never noticed it before, as in I can't tell if it always was like that or appeared recently, but at the intersection of the 2 ramps, the ball on the lower ramp slightly rubs on the bottom of the top ramp, it slows down the ball a bit.
Can you tell me if you have the same on yours, if not I guess I'm in for adding a washer to lift the top one up. [quoted image]

I just pulled up on the upper one slightly so that it clears the ball by 1/16" or so. Easy adjustment.

You could also push down on the lower one. Or maybe a a little bit of both.

#6154 5 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Are there any other switches showing incorrectly open or closed in the switch tests? I would test every other switch that is in the same row and column as that opto.

My witch is stuck between up and down and she will not move. Now I have to figure out how to trouble shoot that.

#6155 5 days ago
Quoted from Ricmaz:

Now I have to figure out how to trouble shoot that.

Take the plastic cover off first and see if it's binding on that.

LTG : )

#6156 4 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Take the plastic cover off first and see if it's binding on that.
LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd, I will check that this afternoon.

#6157 4 days ago

I have posted this before, but a few members have asked me and for those that have played my machine always ask how my fan is so quiet. Its easy, just move it inside case, just make sure to face it the right direction and make sure the wires do not touch blades. It will fit snuggly, but cut down on the noise A LOT. Hope that helps

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#6158 3 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Take the plastic cover off first and see if it's binding on that.
LTG : )

The plastic cover is off of the witch. No movement from the witch. Right now she is either all the way up, or close to it. When I am in the the matrixed switch test, the witch up(22) and down(23) optos, as well as the throne room(15) opto, appear as active. All of the switches in the throne room column and row function just fine. All of the switches in the witch up and down optos column function fine.

Why won’t she move????? .

#6159 3 days ago
Quoted from Ricmaz:

Why won’t she move?????

No power to motor. Bad motor. I'd start there.

LTG : )

#6160 3 days ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

I have posted this before, but a few members have asked me and for those that have played my machine always ask how my fan is so quiet. Its easy, just move it inside case, just make sure to face it the right direction and make sure the wires do not touch blades. It will fit snuggly, but cut down on the noise A LOT. Hope that helps
[quoted image]

I wondered why they did this. The fan fits perfectly well inside the box just like any other PC power supply cooling fan.

#6161 2 days ago

Just an update on my fuse f710 that kept blowing on my game. Well replacing the winkie retraction coil did the trick so no more blowing the fuse. A little tricky removing eveything, but always a sense of fulfillment when a novice like me can fix something. I havent soldered since i was 12. Also adjusted the witch switch so not so sensitive. Thanks again frank at JJP, pinballinreno and LTG.

#6162 2 days ago

Anyone fix castle doors that arent working? Any help? The right door seems to get stuck.

#6163 2 days ago
Quoted from pduffy:

The right door seems to get stuck.

Listen to it, if the motor is whirring and door not moving, the two set screws holding the motor to the door shaft are loose.

LTG : )

#6164 2 days ago

I have an early edition standard game, old light boards. Between games all the leds on the right side of the game went out, scarecrow, Toto, rainbow, wizard, lion. Everything left of the yellow brick road still works fine. I would assume this isn’t the boards individually but the main lighting board, any ideas?

#6165 2 days ago
Quoted from Yoxxy:

I would assume this isn’t the boards individually

Wrong.

Please check out page C-54 in the manual ( you can download it at jerseyjackpinball.com ) that page shows the data harness path. From W6 to #29, to #1, to #2, to #3, etc. etc.

Please go into Tests - LEDs - All LEDs, this turns any working all white. Lift playfield and lean on backbox. You can see the working ones kind of glow.

They are wired in series, a straight line. Find the last working one, the one after it that is out is the bad one. With the power on, you can by pass the data harnesses on the LED boards, bypass the bad one, and turn off in settings. ( be sure and turn it back on when you replace it ) this will help you identify a bad one.

As an example, say #15 was out. You can run the data harness from red on W2, to green on #16 instead of #15. If the rest light up, you know #15 is the bad one.

With the power on you can move data harnesses. They go red to green from board to board. Don't mess with the power connectors with the power on.

LTG : )

#6166 2 days ago
Quoted from Yoxxy:

I have an early edition standard game, old light boards. Between games all the leds on the right side of the game went out, scarecrow, Toto, rainbow, wizard, lion. Everything left of the yellow brick road still works fine. I would assume this isn’t the boards individually but the main lighting board, any ideas?

Might be a loose cable. Refresh all the cable connections and see if it fixes it.

Or like LTG says its a bad led board. Probably one of the small ones possibly more.

I had 2 out at the same time once.

#6167 2 days ago
Quoted from pduffy:

Anyone fix castle doors that arent working? Any help? The right door seems to get stuck.

Read the manual and follow it exactly to remove the castle playfied.

It looks difficult but it's not at all.

Examine the motor, screws and all of the associated parts.

The motor is either slipping due to loose screws (add blue locctite if so) or its worn out.

Not too hard to replace if you take your time.

#6168 2 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Wrong.
Please check out page C-54 in the manual ( you can download it at jerseyjackpinball.com ) that page shows the data harness path. From W6 to #29, to #1, to #2, to #3, etc. etc.
Please go into Tests - LEDs - All LEDs, this turns any working all white. Lift playfield and lean on backbox. You can see the working ones kind of glow.
They are wired in series, a straight line. Find the last working one, the one after it that is out is the bad one. With the power on, you can by pass the data harnesses on the LED boards, bypass the bad one, and turn off in settings. ( be sure and turn it back on when you replace it ) this will help you identify a bad one.
As an example, say #15 was out. You can run the data harness from red on W2, to green on #16 instead of #15. If the rest light up, you know #15 is the bad one.
With the power on you can move data harnesses. They go red to green from board to board. Don't mess with the power connectors with the power on.
LTG : )

That was it, 2 and 22 were bad. Appears to be they are pretty cheap to replace too. Thanks.

#6169 7 hours ago

Today I narrowed the right outlane to the easy setting, I've put probably too much considerations and remorse in doing this, feeling I wasn't up to the game. Truth is that machine is so heavy that nudging it takes a semi-truck force, and I was loosing way too many balls on that outlane, which was both frustrating and exciting.

So I decided to go for the easy route and I'm very happy with it, less frustration, more game, getting closer to SOTR and still losing a bunch of balls in that outlane.

This was my confession of the day !

#6170 5 hours ago
Quoted from adol75:

Today I narrowed the right outlane to the easy setting, I've put probably too much considerations and remorse in doing this, feeling I wasn't up to the game. Truth is that machine is so heavy that nudging it takes a semi-truck force, and I was loosing way too many balls on that outlane, which was both frustrating and exciting.
So I decided to go for the easy route and I'm very happy with it, less frustration, more game, getting closer to SOTR and still losing a bunch of balls in that outlane.
This was my confession of the day !

Dont feel bad, I did the same thing after about a month

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There are 6170 posts in this topic. You are on page 124 of 124.

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