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(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

6 years ago



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  • 11,382 posts
  • 581 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 18 hours ago by jorant
  • Topic is favorited by 271 Pinsiders

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There are 11382 posts in this topic. You are on page 123 of 228.
#6101 2 years ago

Finally after getting beat up by countless multiballs, the diode on my glinda target broke off.

Poor glinda should look like a hockey goalie after fending off so many balls lol !

Got a check switch 74 in the self test. I hadn't seen that before.

Checked the glinda target and it worked in test.

Removed it from the playfield and the diode fell apart in my hand.

5 mins later after installing a new diode it's back up perfectly.

It's amazing how robust these standup targets are. Designed to take a beating, and they do !

#6102 2 years ago

The guys on the Head to Head pinball podcast mention that the WOZRR edition has now sold out (1500 units I believe) and that they are planning a different "Yellow Brick Road" version. No details about trim, or if it will be limited or not so far. It sounds like this is all coming from Wayne in Australia rather than directly from JJP. http://www.head2headpinball.com/

#6103 2 years ago

Wow another 1500 sold.... wondering about the new addition

#6104 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

The guys on the Head to Head pinball podcast mention that the WOZRR edition has now sold out (1500 units I believe) and that they are planning a different "Yellow Brick Road" version. No details about trim, or if it will be limited or not so far. It sounds like this is all coming from Wayne in Australia rather than directly from JJP. http://www.head2headpinball.com/

wow nothing I said about that edition, only 75th sold out and they made several editions why wouldn't they make another version id demand was there

#6105 2 years ago

In the new WOZ edition all of the boards and guts will be up in the head (like DI). That was their original intent, but not physically possible at that time.

#6106 2 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

How difficult it would be to change the playfield in comparison to e.g. WMS tables? I have some wear in front of the winkie target, so I am thinking about doing this. The playfield parts are in good shape, so I am thinking just porting the parts to the new playfield to make the exchange easier for myself (i.e. without cleaning the parts). I have procured a rotisserie and this would be my first playfield swap. Anyone done this and have a website full of teardown pics?

Bump! Anybody here who has made a playfield swap - and better yet if that would have been your first swap. It would be nice to hear how difficult it was. I am planning on making the swap, but this would be my first swap and WOZ is full of stuff, so I am gathering courage. I have installed several playfield protectors and detached the playfield from cabinet many times when carrying the pins to downstairs, so I have some experience atleast in regard of those activities.

#6107 2 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Bump! Anybody here who has made a playfield swap - and better yet if that would have been your first swap. It would be nice to hear how difficult it was. I am planning on making the swap, but this would be my first swap and WOZ is full of stuff, so I am gathering courage. I have installed several playfield protectors and detached the playfield from cabinet many times when carrying the pins to downstairs, so I have some experience atleast in regard of those activities.

I'm curious, why are you looking at doing a playfield swap ? Is yours worn out ? If yes could you send pictures and tell me how many games it has.

#6108 2 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

I'm curious, why are you looking at doing a playfield swap ? Is yours worn out ? If yes could you send pictures and tell me how many games it has.

Hi! Sending a PM to you.

#6109 2 years ago

Hey guys,

Does anyone know when the upper right flipper orbit magnet is supposed to work?

Thanks,
Ted

#6110 2 years ago
Quoted from teddyb73:

Hey guys,
Does anyone know when the upper right flipper orbit magnet is supposed to work?
Thanks,
Ted

It stops the ball during witch hurry ups to make it easier to hit the witch.

There is a setting in the menu to turn this on or off.

#6111 2 years ago

First coil issue I’ve had in my short pinball career. Any help greatly appreciated.
My illuminated winkie target mod broke (should have listened to the reviews)
I reinstalled the original target and started a new game. Now my ball launch coil won’t shoot the ball into the shooter lane. Just bangs the bottom of the ball repededly but ball doesn’t launch. I have a video but not sure how to post videos to Pinside from my phone.
Thanks for any help.

#6112 2 years ago
Quoted from Grateful_Pin:

Now my ball launch coil won’t shoot the ball into the shooter lane. Just bangs the bottom of the ball repededly but ball doesn’t launch.

Plunger broke ? Coil sleeve broke ? Something obstructing the ball going up ?

LTG : )

#6113 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Plunger broke ? Coil sleeve broke ? Something obstructing the ball going up ?
LTG : )

Found my broken piece.....any way to repair this? I assume Im going to need to order the black piece from JJP vs a quick fix.
We have a party for my sons basketball team next Saturday so I’ve got a little time to get it delivered.
Was just curious if it worth attempting to repair.

85B514E4-585D-4022-9B1C-EC61A1B37301 (resized).jpeg
#6114 2 years ago

Repair might not last. No idea if you can get just the black plastic piece or if you need to buy the whole plunger.

I'd put some five minute epoxy on the black plastic, a piece of scotch tape across the hole, pound it in. Leave the glue dry. Hope it lasts ahwile.

LTG : )

#6115 2 years ago
Quoted from Grateful_Pin:

Found my broken piece.....any way to repair this? I assume Im going to need to order the black piece from JJP vs a quick fix.
We have a party for my sons basketball team next Saturday so I’ve got a little time to get it delivered.
Was just curious if it worth attempting to repair. [quoted image]

Possibly this but not sure if it is the same measurements (says 3-3/8" in the actionpinball link):

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2987

http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=04-10291

#6116 2 years ago

Thanks LTG and DCFAN!
My plan is to try the repair tomorrow while also ordering a replacement as I’m sure the repair will be short lived but worth a try.

#6117 2 years ago
Quoted from Grateful_Pin:

Thanks LTG and DCFAN!
My plan is to try the repair tomorrow while also ordering a replacement as I’m sure the repair will be short lived but worth a try.

I hope you get the right part if you order one. There seems to be about four different versions for Williams/Bally games.

#6118 2 years ago
Quoted from Grateful_Pin:

Found my broken piece.....any way to repair this? I assume Im going to need to order the black piece from JJP vs a quick fix.
We have a party for my sons basketball team next Saturday so I’ve got a little time to get it delivered.
Was just curious if it worth attempting to repair. [quoted image]

Maybe jb weld, but nothing really sticks to nylon.

Maybe it'll get you a couple hours play though, reinforced with thin tape.

#6119 2 years ago

I finally figured out why my fuse F710 keeps blowing which controls the drop target retract, castle doors vuk, castle double doors latch, and house wall drop. I just don't know how to fix it. I realized recently that somehow by hitting the winkie guard target it activates the mechanism that controls the witch (i.e. If the witch hurry up is going on and I hit the winkie guard target it places a hit on the witch-- I have been noticing that when I have one more hit on the witch to drop her down and I hit the winkie guard target she drops down). This shouldn't be the case. So I noticed the fuse is blowing when the witch light is red (i.e. ready to start Battle of wicked witch) and I hit the winkie guard target. If I hit the winkie guard target, it activates Battle the wicked witch mode (which it shouldn't) causing the fuse F710 to blow. It must be the target retracting at the same time the retraction coil is firing. In any event, the problem is somehow the winkie guard target is activating the wicked witch mechanism which leads to the problem? I don't know how that would be, but maybe LTG or pinballinreno may have suggestion. Thanks for the help.

#6120 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

I hope you get the right part if you order one. There seems to be about four different versions for Williams/Bally games.

Ended up ordering directly from JJP.
Was $2 cheaper than pinball life and at least I know it’s the right part. Frank with JJP spent well over 30 minutes on phone helping me order the correct part, sent me a new board under warranty for my DILE to fix some LEDs that weren’t working (lightning bolt flashing LEDs behind QED guy and under theatre didn’t work) and ordered my DI manual for me!
He was awesome!! Thanks JJP and Pinsiders for the help.

#6121 2 years ago
Quoted from monte_:

I finally figured out why my fuse F710 keeps blowing which controls the drop target retract, castle doors vuk, castle double doors latch, and house wall drop. I just don't know how to fix it. I realized recently that somehow by hitting the winkie guard target it activates the mechanism that controls the witch (i.e. If the witch hurry up is going on and I hit the winkie guard target it places a hit on the witch-- I have been noticing that when I have one more hit on the witch to drop her down and I hit the winkie guard target she drops down). This shouldn't be the case. So I noticed the fuse is blowing when the witch light is red (i.e. ready to start Battle of wicked witch) and I hit the winkie guard target. If I hit the winkie guard target, it activates Battle the wicked witch mode (which it shouldn't) causing the fuse F710 to blow. It must be the target retracting at the same time the retraction coil is firing. In any event, the problem is somehow the winkie guard target is activating the wicked witch mechanism which leads to the problem? I don't know how that would be, but maybe LTG or pinballinreno may have suggestion. Thanks for the help.

Could be a short.
Contact JJP for better answers.

They have a very large data base of problems.

#6122 2 years ago
Quoted from monte_:

I finally figured out why my fuse F710 keeps blowing which controls the drop target retract, castle doors vuk, castle double doors latch, and house wall drop. I just don't know how to fix it. I realized recently that somehow by hitting the winkie guard target it activates the mechanism that controls the witch (i.e. If the witch hurry up is going on and I hit the winkie guard target it places a hit on the witch-- I have been noticing that when I have one more hit on the witch to drop her down and I hit the winkie guard target she drops down). This shouldn't be the case. So I noticed the fuse is blowing when the witch light is red (i.e. ready to start Battle of wicked witch) and I hit the winkie guard target. If I hit the winkie guard target, it activates Battle the wicked witch mode (which it shouldn't) causing the fuse F710 to blow. It must be the target retracting at the same time the retraction coil is firing. In any event, the problem is somehow the winkie guard target is activating the wicked witch mechanism which leads to the problem? I don't know how that would be, but maybe LTG or pinballinreno may have suggestion. Thanks for the help.

It will be a bad solder joint on the pink target near plastic ramp, or a rainbow target, also your target drop coil will be blown

#6123 2 years ago

So my WOZ is down --- no signal used the reset button to get it back in action once, but it died mid game play, reset button did not bring it back to life. Tried a full install on a memorex 32 GB new flash drive and the machine is still not booting, getting one error about a file overriding when doing the extraction (will make a note of it next time) so basically, when hitting the reset button all led's flash but the fan stops after only making a small rotation on the CPU board. Any suggestions?

#6124 2 years ago
Quoted from coz6:

So my WOZ is down --- no signal used the reset button to get it back in action once, but it died mid game play, reset button did not bring it back to life. Tried a full install on a memorex 32 GB new flash drive and the machine is still not booting, getting one error about a file overriding when doing the extraction (will make a note of it next time) so basically, when hitting the reset button all led's flash but the fan stops after only making a small rotation on the CPU board. Any suggestions?

Sounds like a bad SSD drive in the game.

Use a proven usb flash drive to mount the image. Kingston 8gb have never let me down.

Do a complete and total power fail before you start reinstalling.

#6125 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Sounds like a bad SSD drive in the game.
Use a proven usb flash drive to mount the image. Kingston 8gb have never let me down.
Do a complete and total power fail before you start reinstalling.

Please explain more - not sure how to do any of that outside purchase a Kingston

#6126 2 years ago
Quoted from coz6:

Please explain more - not sure how to do any of that outside purchase a Kingston

I have had a few incompatible USB stick drives that did not work.

The Kingston 8gb usb stick drives have never failed me.

As far as the SSD drive inside the game. Most seem ok, I prefer Samsung SSD drives.

I have never had to change one out.

#6127 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Sounds like a bad SSD drive in the game.
Use a proven usb flash drive to mount the image. Kingston 8gb have never let me down.
Do a complete and total power fail before you start reinstalling.

Are you suggesting that I do the image on the Kingston per JJ instruction but just with a known working flash drive brand? What is "a Do a complete and total power fail before you start reinstalling" thanks for the suggestion

#6128 2 years ago
Quoted from coz6:

Are you suggesting that I do the image on the Kingston per JJ instruction but just with a known working flash drive brand? What is "a Do a complete and total power fail before you start reinstalling" thanks for the suggestion

Dud you replace the SSD drive inside the game?
It might be bad or going bad.

#6129 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Dud you replace the SSD drive inside the game?
It might be bad or going bad.

Not yet but I can - what I find concerning is the CPU does not seem to be booting up enough to even run the flash drive for a new install the light on the flash drive is only half powered before it stops I tried a keyboard to see if I could hit f2 and same issue the keyboard has no power

#6130 2 years ago
Quoted from coz6:

Not yet but I can - what I find concerning is the CPU does not seem to be booting up enough to even run the flash drive for a new install the light on the flash drive is only half powered before it stops I tried a keyboard to see if I could hit f2 and same issue the keyboard has no power

Try unplugging the cable to the USB flash drive from the back of the computer, then plug the usb flash drive directly into the computer where the cable was.

Does the usb flash drive boot?

Its possible that the cable is bad.

#6131 2 years ago

When was your WOZ built? If more than 5 years ago, could it be the motherboard battery? That reminds me ... I need to look up that procedure and replace that.

#6132 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Try unplugging the cable to the USB flash drive from the back of the computer, then plug the usb flash drive directly into the computer where the cable was.
Does the usb flash drive boot?
Its possible that the cable is bad.

I did try a direct plugin - the USB does not boot. I'll have the Kingston drive on Wed

#6133 2 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

When was your WOZ built? If more than 5 years ago, could it be the motherboard battery? That reminds me ... I need to look up that procedure and replace that.

Also tried that yes older than 5 years old pinside did say many times only replace when machine is powered on - but if it fails and battery is low you should be able to get into the bios with F2 - replaced battery after all other steps were failing

The battery does seem logical because the game would not boot and it had been off a bit but reset button fixed it only when the game died mid play could it not rebboot

#6134 2 years ago

If there are zero signs of life on the motherboard, I would check power first.

One of those cheap computer power supply testers can be real handy for that, just unplug the connector on the MB and plug the tester in and you’ll instantly know if power is good or not. If good and there are zero signs of even attempting to boot I would personally look to the MB being dead as a bad drive would still try to boot but then report that it can’t.

#6135 2 years ago

One of my problems I am having on WOZ is that the winkie guard target and the winkie guard vuk are both activating the witch (i.e. putting a hit on the witch) which obviously should not be happening. Frank (JJP) and I have come to the conclusion based on a lot of testing over the phone that my witch right and left switch are much too sensitive. Has anyone adjusted the switch to make it less sensitive and if so what is the best way of doing it? Any help would be appreciated.

#6136 2 years ago
Quoted from monte_:

Has anyone adjusted the switch to make it less sensitive and if so what is the best way of doing it? Any help would be appreciated.

From the WOZ Forum

Loosen the nuts circled in RED allowing you to move the switches closer to the plate. Reach around the lifted playfield and tap the strike plate while moving the swiches closer. When you have the sensitivity you want, just tighten the nuts back down.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/89824152@N07/sets/72157634995600921/

LTG : )

#6137 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

From the WOZ Forum
Loosen the nuts circled in RED allowing you to move the switches closer to the plate. Reach around the lifted playfield and tap the strike plate while moving the swiches closer. When you have the sensitivity you want, just tighten the nuts back down.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/89824152@N07/sets/72157634995600921/
LTG : )

When re-tightening the nuts do so gingerly. I would even say don't use a ratchet wrench. It is very easy to break the little attachements and then the whole bracket needs to be replaced which is a bit of a pain.

#6138 2 years ago

The witch bash mech seems to be a weak point on this game. Has anyone come up with a good replacement? IMHO a better solution will instantly become a must have mod.

#6139 2 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

The witch bash mech seems to be a weak point on this game. Has anyone come up with a good replacement? IMHO a better solution will instantly become a must have mod.

I have the original setup and have never had an issue over the 9000 games we put on it.

Castle doors however are another story.

#6140 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

From the WOZ Forum
Loosen the nuts circled in RED allowing you to move the switches closer to the plate. Reach around the lifted playfield and tap the strike plate while moving the swiches closer. When you have the sensitivity you want, just tighten the nuts back down.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/89824152@N07/sets/72157634995600921/
LTG : )

Well I got that fixed and now the witch is not activated by hitting winkie guard target or winkie guard vuk. I am still blowing fuse F710 repeatedly (20V Coils/Motors; Drop Target Retract, Castle Doors VUK, Castle Double Doors Latch, House Wall Drop. Frank (JJP) and I have come to the conclusion that the coil that controls the drop target retract is bad. Frank sent me the coil assembly to replace shown below. I have never done soldering/desoldering so I would appreciate if someone could tell me what I need to buy to do this job. In addition, let me know if there are any tricks to replacing this piece. Thanks.

IMG_7560 (resized).JPG
#6141 2 years ago
Quoted from monte_:

Well I got that fixed and now the witch is not activated by hitting winkie guard target or winkie guard vuk. I am still blowing fuse F710 repeatedly (20V Coils/Motors; Drop Target Retract, Castle Doors VUK, Castle Double Doors Latch, House Wall Drop. Frank (JJP) and I have come to the conclusion that the coil that controls the drop target retract is bad. Frank sent me the coil assembly to replace shown below. I have never done soldering/desoldering so I would appreciate if someone could tell me what I need to buy to do this job. In addition, let me know if there are any tricks to replacing this piece. Thanks.
[quoted image]

Its way easier than you think.
Practice by soldering paper clips together.

Use a bit of flux on everything, it cleans off with rubbing alcohol when you are done.

Heat the part not the solder.
Add solder when the area is hot enough to melt solder.

Dont overheat so it all turns black and tape other wires out of the way with masking tape if you work in a confined area.

See below, it's easy.

#6142 2 years ago
Quoted from monte_:

let me know if there are any tricks to replacing this piece.

LTG : )

#6143 2 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

In the new WOZ edition all of the boards and guts will be up in the head (like DI). That was their original intent, but not physically possible at that time.

Curious to know however, what are the changes in boards and tech? The current and older hardware (driver board etc...) seems like it is possible to repair as it has larger components. If everything is downsized and uses more SMDs, then it starts to close the door on local repair. Depending on the quantity of new WOZ pins that are made, it could also mean that there would be less of the newer 'tech' available if they stop manufacturing WOZ, sooner than later. Can they produce this 'indefinitely', license wise? That would be cool and might address my concern.

#6144 2 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Curious to know however, what are the changes in boards and tech? The current and older hardware (driver board etc...) seems like it is possible to repair as it has larger components. If everything is downsized and uses more SMDs, then it starts to close the door on local repair. Depending on the quantity of new WOZ pins that are made, it could also mean that there would be less of the newer 'tech' available if they stop manufacturing WOZ, sooner than later. Can they produce this 'indefinitely', license wise? That would be cool and might address my concern.

Business can change a lot in pinball, but what Jack told us back in July is that they were going to still be making WOZ for "quite a while" as it continues to sell well. I don't remember his exact words, but from what he was saying, it seemed like the license is either a longer term license, or that it was renewed. He did say that with the "original" purchase of the license back in the beginning, it was quite expensive with lots of meetings involved. (probably normal for pinball licenses) He will likely say something about WOZ in the JJP seminar at Expo. If people continue to buy WOZ pins, I think they will keep making them. It's their best seller (total sold) so far.

#6145 2 years ago

Has anyone considered replacing the rather loud fans with other alternatives ? Back in the days I was into CRT projectors, that were super loud, so we replaced many fans with Pabst one, who were known to be silent without losing efficiency. I'm considering doing the same in my WOZ.

These fans look interesting : https://www.quietpc.com/gel-silent8

#6146 2 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

Has anyone considered replacing the rather loud fans with other alternatives ?

Happens on many games from many manufacturers. Easy to search Pinside for ideas.

LTG : )

#6147 2 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Curious to know however, what are the changes in boards and tech? The current and older hardware (driver board etc...) seems like it is possible to repair as it has larger components. If everything is downsized and uses more SMDs, then it starts to close the door on local repair. Depending on the quantity of new WOZ pins that are made, it could also mean that there would be less of the newer 'tech' available if they stop manufacturing WOZ, sooner than later. Can they produce this 'indefinitely', license wise? That would be cool and might address my concern.

The compnents in the box aren’t exclusive to WOZ so there would be anything to worry about. While I haven’t had to compare them side by side from what I’ve seen with Dialed in and Pirates is that the driver board is still basically the same.

I imagine if they do move the components to the head it may have more to do with simply wanting to reduce the number of different cabinet styles they keep on hand so we could probably expect the speakers to be moved as well.

The more they update the factory build the better our chances of getting replacement MB’s, etc in the future as the software will be updated to work with whatever the latest they are using, while still supporting our older hardware.

#6148 2 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

The witch bash mech seems to be a weak point on this game. Has anyone come up with a good replacement? IMHO a better solution will instantly become a must have mod.

Quoted from LTG:

From the WOZ Forum
Loosen the nuts circled in RED allowing you to move the switches closer to the plate. Reach around the lifted playfield and tap the strike plate while moving the swiches closer. When you have the sensitivity you want, just tighten the nuts back down.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/89824152@N07/sets/72157634995600921/
LTG : )

I have the same problem here. I got a NIB WOZRR this year and the witch is always the problem (too sensitive). I tried LTF's solution before. But the problem is I cant move the switches closer anymore. The solution is you need to take out the witch from playfield. Tighten the nut (as #7 in the picture) but not too tight. Leave a very little space between the front plate (#1) and (#2). Then you will have more space to adjust the switches that LTF mention.

It took me 2 days to figure it out...

Currently my witch is not perfect (95% good), sometimes while I hit right edge of the bash plate, it won't trigger a hit. But at least I don't have too sensitive problem.

Screen Shot 2018-10-03 at 10.58.59 AM (resized).png
#6149 2 years ago

If this has been covered before, forgive me. I’m trying to troubleshoot my Throne Room opto. Machine thinks there is a ball in there all the time. Took both sides off of the bracket and held them right across from one another, and it still thinks there is a something between them. Anything else to do before I replace the opto?

Thanks for any suggestions.

#6150 2 years ago
Quoted from Ricmaz:

If this has been covered before, forgive me. I’m trying to troubleshoot my Throne Room opto. Machine thinks there is a ball in there all the time. Took both sides off of the bracket and held them right across from one another, and it still thinks there is a something between them. Anything else to do before I replace the opto?
Thanks for any suggestions.

Maybe try reseating the opto connectors.

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