(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

6 years ago



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#6001 1 year ago

Over the Labor Day weekend I installed the 2.0 light kit upgrade to my RRWOZ.
My machine came with the 7.5v light system originally.
This is a great kit.
3 cheers for Butch Peel making this a reality.
I followed the instructions and it worked. No trouble shooting. It just worked. Amazing
It took me around 20 hours to finish this project over three days. I also took this opportunity to rewire and rerun all the mods that I have on this machine so it tool more time than it would have if I hadn't taken on this extra work. But now it all looks cleaner when I raise the playfield.
If you are considering this I say do it. It wasn't hard just time consuming.

Some suggestions based on my experience:
As mentioned by DANGERTERROR (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/113#post-4425303),
have the wiring diagrams (pages E-20 - E-25) from the WOZ manual ver 3.5 handy and the bigger the better. I displayed the manual on a 60" tv and it was extremely helpful. Especially the orientation of the single LEDs
Read all of the instructions relating to a step before embarking on a step. There are several steps with subsequent information that you will be glad you knew of before proceeding. (Ex. one step is to remove all the large boards, which I did, then I read after that each board should be replaced as removed and that removing them all without replacing them would make it more difficult to put the new boards in place. Fortunately, the pictures in the manual made it easy to put the new boards in place but I think you get my meaning. Read the whole step.)
You will need some 1/4" 8-32 SMS and brackets for mounting the new power supply to the rear of the lower cabinet. I used some plastic Plumber's Tape to strap it in place.
In the manual, on page E-23 Cable 8's part number is 19-3096-08. In the kit this cable is now 19-3096-09, there are 4 of them. Not a big deal but I relied heavily on the manual and this was the only disconnect between the manual and the kit that I found.
The kit comes with some #4 x 3/8" SMS but I didn't see any instructions on where to use them. Instead there are many callouts for the #4 x 1/2" SMS. I went and bought a bunch of #4 x 1/2" SMS but I think I should have been using the 3/8" SMS for the single LEDs (the ones with two mounting holes 15-0025-01) that get mounted directly to the playfield without standoffs. Again not a big thing but I would do it differently next time.
Also the kit included new plastic pop rivets. As it turns out I used the original ones, but after crawling across my garage looking for the original sleeve that fell and me wondering how I was going to proceed I found the bag with the new pop rivets and I almost cried. JJP had my back - I wish all companies were this thorough.

#6002 1 year ago

I bought a RR, nib 3 years ago. I thought there were only going to be 1500 of these made. Hard to believe they are not gone. Anybody know how close they are? Just curious,thanks.

#6003 1 year ago

just wondering if anyone has seen this problem. About 1 out of every 10 games the ball doesn't make it onto the upper castle play field. The VUK fires fine and the ball enters the wireworm, but actually comes through the wire form and bounces back onto the main play field. Its odd to me that the ball would actually fit through the wire form but it does (right at the 90 degree bend).

#6004 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

just wondering if anyone has seen this problem. About 1 out of every 10 games the ball doesn't make it onto the upper castle play field. The VUK fires fine and the ball enters the wireworm, but actually comes through the wire form and bounces back onto the main play field. Its odd to me that the ball would actually fit through the wire form but it does (right at the 90 degree bend).

Adjust the power of the VUK coil down a point or two and see if that helps.

#6005 1 year ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Adjust the power of the VUK coil down a point or two and see if that helps.

I'll try that today, but I was surprised the ball can actually fit through the wire form....its a design flaw in my mind unless for some reason mine was a defect

#6006 1 year ago

Just want to give a shout out to Frank at JJP tech support.

I recently acquired my first JJP game, an ECLE w/ 7.5 buffered boards. After transport the majority of the lights went out. DOH. Picked up some longer cables and traced it to three big ones and three GI, they were kind of all over the place in the chain.

I was all set to bite the bullet and do the 2.0 upgrade, as six is just too many light boards to replace... but Frank suggested I first inspect the fuse lights in the power board. Sure enough, one of them (F2) was dark, so I followed his next steps and unplugged the power from W1, and F2 lit right up. I then reconnected the boards with just W1 bypassed... everything came back on, amazing.

He also helped me work out a couple other random gremlins, and I'm basically 100% dialed in now. Very impressed with this level of support for an out of warranty machine!

If I'm still as excited about this game a year from now I'll most likely do the kit upgrade, which he graciously offered to lock the current price at should it go up. But for now, he set up an exchange for a very reasonable cost and I'll just swap it out, enjoy, and focus on educating myself on the 300 pages of rules

#6007 1 year ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Just want to give a shout out to Frank at JJP tech support.
I recently acquired my first JJP game, an ECLE w/ 7.5 buffered boards. After transport the majority of the lights went out. DOH. Picked up some longer cables and traced it to three big ones and three GI, they were kind of all over the place in the chain.
I was all set to bite the bullet and do the 2.0 upgrade, as six is just too many light boards to replace... but Frank suggested I first inspect the fuse lights in the power board. Sure enough, one of them (F2) was dark, so I followed his next steps and unplugged the power from W1, and F2 lit right up. I then reconnected the boards with just W1 bypassed... everything came back on, amazing.
He also helped me work out a couple other random gremlins, and I'm basically 100% dialed in now. Very impressed with this level of support for an out of warranty machine!
If I'm still as excited about this game a year from now I'll most likely do the kit upgrade, which he graciously offered to lock the current price at should it go up. But for now, he set up an exchange for a very reasonable cost and I'll just swap it out, enjoy, and focus on educating myself on the 300 pages of rules

JJP has always been very helpful...I have the same buffered boards as u....just out of curiosity what was the cost to exchange the boards if one was to fail? Do they have an exchange program (reduced price on the new or refurbished board if u send back your failed board? I've had two WOZ machines with these same boards and have yet to see an issue.

#6008 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

JJP has always been very helpful...I have the same buffered boards as u....just out of curiosity what was the cost to exchange the boards if one was to fail? Do they have an exchange program (reduced price on the new or refurbished board if u send back your failed board? I've had two WOZ machines with these same boards and have yet to see an issue.

Mine was an exchange for substantially less than the $250 a new one costs, but still $$$ of course as I'm out of warranty. PM'd you the details as I don't want to proclaim this is any kind of a universal system, and presume they make arrangements on a case by case basis.

#6009 1 year ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Mine was an exchange for substantially less than the $250 a new one costs, but still $$$ of course as I'm out of warranty. PM'd you the details as I don't want to proclaim this is any kind of a universal system, and presume they make arrangements on a case by case basis.

sounds good....JJP has always been great at taking care of its customers.

#6010 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

just wondering if anyone has seen this problem. About 1 out of every 10 games the ball doesn't make it onto the upper castle play field. The VUK fires fine and the ball enters the wireworm, but actually comes through the wire form and bounces back onto the main play field. Its odd to me that the ball would actually fit through the wire form but it does (right at the 90 degree bend).

Adjust the vuk power down a couple notches.
Put a nylon wire tie sll the way around where the ball goes thru the wireform to act like a wire.

It may be welded a bit off.
Order a new wireform if this is the case. Call Frank at JJP and tell them its defective.

#6011 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

just wondering if anyone has seen this problem. About 1 out of every 10 games the ball doesn't make it onto the upper castle play field. The VUK fires fine and the ball enters the wireworm, but actually comes through the wire form and bounces back onto the main play field. Its odd to me that the ball would actually fit through the wire form but it does (right at the 90 degree bend).

That's odd. I checked on mine and there is no way the ball would fit, can you take pictures I think yours is misplaced, have you ever moved it ?

#6012 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Adjust the vuk power down a couple notches.
Put a nylon wire tie sll the way around where the ball goes thru the wireform to act like a wire.
It may be welded a bit off.
Order a new wireform if this is the case. Call Frank at JJP and tell them its defective.

I opened a ticket with JJP....we'll see what they say. I adjusted the VUK power, but the issue still exists. I think the only way to solve is to replace with a new wire form....I could always put something there to prevent it from happening, but it won't look good I'm sure JJP will get back to me soon as they are good at responding....

#6013 1 year ago
Quoted from adol75:

That's odd. I checked on mine and there is no way the ball would fit, can you take pictures I think yours is misplaced, have you ever moved it ?

my thought exactly....I haven't touched it, and the original owner I purchased it from didn't have many game plays so he may not have noticed the issue....I'll snap a few pics later....

#6014 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

I opened a ticket with JJP....we'll see what they say. I adjusted the VUK power, but the issue still exists. I think the only way to solve is to replace with a new wire form....I could always put something there to prevent it from happening, but it won't look good I'm sure JJP will get back to me soon as they are good at responding....

A black wire tie and you won't notice it at all. At least while waiting for replacement parts.

#6015 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

A black wire tie and you won't notice it at all. At least while waiting for replacement parts.

Yep...good idea....

#6016 1 year ago

I have a new problem on my woz rr. The winkie guard target is not working properly during the battle against the wicked witch. After i complete the four red shots, i believe the winkie guard target is supposed to retract so i can hit the vuk castle shot, but the the target is retracting halfway and getting stuck and not moving. The winkie guard is working fine and not getting stuck when i am trying to go into castle to complete rescue multiball. Lloyd help me fix the winkie guard a couple of weeks ago as it wasnt working at all. Thanks for the help.

I have a video of it I just don’t know how to attach it here.

#6017 1 year ago

Here is a link to video

#6018 1 year ago
Quoted from monte_:

I have a new problem on my woz rr. The winkie guard target is not working properly during the battle against the wicked witch. After i complete the four red shots, i believe the winkie guard target is supposed to retract so i can hit the vuk castle shot, but the the target is retracting halfway and getting stuck and not moving. The winkie guard is working fine and not getting stuck when i am trying to go into castle to complete rescue multiball. Lloyd help me fix the winkie guard a couple of weeks ago as it wasnt working at all. Thanks for the help.
I have a video of it I just don’t know how to attach it here.

I can’t imagine why it would do this during that one mode and not at other times. Could it be just a coincidence? How many times have you tried this both during the battle mode and other modes? Are you sure it is not sticking at all at other times?

#6019 1 year ago

that is really odd? But drop targets typically are either up or down... The mechanics are NOT made to have a "half way" state. Which makes me think this is coincidence, id check the meck from under the playfield and make 100% sure there is no binding, its moving freely, and that the entire meck itself is positioned so that the drop target is not pressing on the playfield hole it sits within. my 2 cents

#6020 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

that is really odd? But drop targets typically are either up or down... The mechanics are made to have a "half way" state. Which makes me think this is coincidence, id check the meck from under the playfield and make 100% sure there is no binding, its moving freely, and that the entire meck itself is positioned so that the drop target is not pressing on the playfield hole it sits within. my 2 cents

You mean they are "not" made to have a half-way state. I would check to see if the target is rubbing the edge of the playfield. The whole mech can be carefully bent a little to adjust.

#6021 1 year ago

yup dcfan exactly, and ya that was a typo

#6022 1 year ago
Quoted from monte_:

I have a new problem on my woz rr. The winkie guard target is not working properly during the battle against the wicked witch. After i complete the four red shots, i believe the winkie guard target is supposed to retract so i can hit the vuk castle shot, but the the target is retracting halfway and getting stuck and not moving. The winkie guard is working fine and not getting stuck when i am trying to go into castle to complete rescue multiball. Lloyd help me fix the winkie guard a couple of weeks ago as it wasnt working at all. Thanks for the help.
I have a video of it I just don’t know how to attach it here.

Does the target raise and lower in test?

Is it assembled correctly i.e. not missing an e-clip and washers on one of the attachment posts?

Retraction spring getting weak?

You can give the spring more tension by just re-hooking the spring a 1/4" lower than the end loop within the spring itself.

Is it binding on something (playfield, wire underneath etc.)?

You can gently pull the whole mech forwards (bend it) toward the front of the game a little bit at a time until the target part stops rubbing on the playfield.
Adjust the nut on the bottom if the target protrudes above the playfield surface after bending it

Take a look and report what you find.

#6023 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Does the target raise and lower in test?
Is it assembled correctly i.e. not missing an e-clip and washers on one of the attachment posts?
Retraction spring getting weak?
You can give the spring more tension by just re-hooking the spring a 1/4" lower than the end loop within the spring itself.
Is it binding on something (playfield, wire underneath etc.)?
You can gently pull the whole mech forwards (bend it) toward the front of the game a little bit at a time until the target part stops rubbing on the playfield.
Adjust the nut on the bottom if the target protrudes above the playfield surface after bending it
Take a look and report what you find.

I did tighten the spring and noticed it was a little better but still noticed it didn't go down all the way. When looking at the target from above when not fully retracted it is actually rubbing on the wood toward the back part of the machine and when I look underneath the play field the black part connected to the target almost looks like it is bending a little underneath the play field. I don't really understand how to adjust the target unless somebody shows me specifically. On a worse side note I had the machine on during witch mode playing around with the glass off and noticed smoke coming from the machine. I immediately turned it off and noticed the part just to the left of the winkie guard target assembly was extremely hot and I assume the smoke was coming from this (see pic). Now I have two problems, winkie guard target and something was burning. I need some serious help.

IMG_7531 (resized).JPGIMG_7532 (resized).JPG
#6024 1 year ago
Quoted from monte_:

I did tighten the spring and noticed it was a little better but still noticed it didn't go down all the way. When looking at the target from above when not fully retracted it is actually rubbing on the wood toward the back part of the machine and when I look underneath the play field the black part connected to the target almost looks like it is bending a little underneath the play field. I don't really understand how to adjust the target unless somebody shows me specifically. On a worse side note I had the machine on during witch mode playing around with the glass off and noticed smoke coming from the machine. I immediately turned it off and noticed the part just to the left of the winkie guard target assembly was extremely hot and I assume the smoke was coming from this (see pic). Now I have two problems, winkie guard target and something was burning. I need some serious help.[quoted image][quoted image]

The coil was getting hot from working too hard and being energized too long.
The smoke was from the coil wrapper heating up.
Over all coils are pretty robust, you are probably ok since you noticed it and turned it off.

Carefully check around the area for any wires that may have melted together, if none found your still probably ok.

The drop target (black plastic piece of the assembly) is binding on the playfield you say?
This would cause the coil to work too hard and heat up.

With the playfield on its service rails and the rubber feet on the lockbar receiver.
Reach underneath the playfield and grab the whole drop target mechanism in your hand and either push it back or pull on it forwards until the black plastic piece no longer rubs on the playfield.

In your case since you report that its rubbing on the rear of the target, push the entire mechanism back maybe an inch or until the target is free. Its ok if the mech runs at an angle when done its designed for this, its ok to bend this mech.

Raise the playfield and carefully lean it back against the backbox head. Dont move the game around with the playfield in this position, it could fall.

With the power off test that the target raises and lowers with very little resistance and rubs on nothing.

Make sure the spring on the side of the black plastic piece is hooked on and retracts the target efficiently.
You can press on the brass colored piece with the little finger on it to manually knock the target off its metal ledge, the target should snap back into place if its working properly.

This is the factory method to resolve the rubbing issue.

Try to determine if its just the black plastic piece that is the culprit and not the plunger part inside the coil.

#6025 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The coil was getting hot from working too hard and being energized too long.
The smoke was from the coil wrapper heating up.
Over all coils are pretty robust, you are probably ok since you noticed it and turned it off.
Carefully check around the area for any wires that may have melted together, if none found your still probably ok.
The drop target (black plastic piece of the assembly) is binding on the playfield you say?
This would cause the coil to work too hard and heat up.
With the playfield on its service rails and the rubber feet on the lockbar receiver.
Reach underneath the playfield and grab the whole drop target mechanism in your hand and either push it back or pull on it forwards until the black plastic piece no longer rubs on the playfield.
In your case since you report that its rubbing on the rear of the target, push the entire mechanism back maybe an inch or until the target is free. Its ok if the mech runs at an angle when done its designed for this, its ok to bend this mech.
Raise the playfield and carefully lean it back against the backbox head. Dont move the game around with the playfield in this position, it could fall.
With the power off test that the target raises and lowers with very little resistance and rubs on nothing.
Make sure the spring on the side of the black plastic piece is hooked on and retracts the target efficiently.
You can press on the brass colored piece with the little finger on it to manually knock the target off its metal ledge, the target should snap back into place if its working properly.
This is the factory method to resolve the rubbing issue.
Try to determine if its just the black plastic piece that is the culprit and not the plunger part inside the coil.

There are only 2 adjustments to the drop target assembly:

Bending the entire mech forward or backwards to keep the target from rubbing on the playfield.

and

Adjusting the stop screw at the very bottom of the metal coil housing to raise or lower the target when its retracted.
Properly adjusted the target would be flush with the surface.

#6026 1 year ago

I'm having LED Issues(7.5v buffered boards), and/or issues with the Multi-Output Power Supply. Game was working fine, I opened the coin door to go into the diagnostic menu, while in the menus I noticed one of the GI lights flickering fast, so I powered off the game. When I restarted the only LED's that were working were the LEDS on Light Board 6, and all of the other leds plugged directly into Light Board 6, including light board #29. So LED #128-140 were the only ones working. The next board in the chain was #1 that was not working. I jumpered around #1 and no luck, all other LEDs still not working. I also jumped from Light Board #6 to #1, and still no change.

I checked the Power Supply board and found that the LED Light under fuse F1 was not lit. I checked the voltages at J4. The first pin had 0.2 volts, and the other two had 7.6 volts as they should. I turned off the machine and unplugged J4. When I powered it back on the LED under fuse F1 lit up and I also had 7.6 volts on the first pin of J4. Weird??

Any idea what my issue could be? I would greatly appreciate any advice!

#6027 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

There are only 2 adjustments to the drop target assembly:
Bending the entire mech forward or backwards to keep the target from rubbing on the playfield.
and
Adjusting the stop screw at the very bottom of the metal coil housing to raise or lower the target when its retracted.
Properly adjusted the target would be flush with the surface.

I believe I know what the problem is but I don't know how to fix it. When I push down on the brass metal bracket it is getting stuck down in that position which does not allow the target to retract (see video).In the video, it pops back up, but most of the time it stays stuck down. I feel like the little brass arm that pushes down on the black bracket underneath is getting stuck on it somehow. Do i bend that little brass arm going down to fix it? I don't know. I assume the coil causes the bracket to push down in witch mode to cause the target to retract. I assume I am not having problem during regular play and only during witch mode is that the coil/bracket has nothing to do with retraction of the target when the ball hits it during regular gameplay. Lloyd, you have any thoughts on how to do this? I assume the coil overheats because it is staying stuck down.

IMG_7535 (resized).JPG
#6028 1 year ago

I would remove the drop target meck so you can have it I. Your hand an ensure you can move it freely. If you can more it, then most likely it’s binding or rubbing on the playfield

#6029 1 year ago

I also have another problem that just started. I don't know if I did something while trying to look at the other problem, but the castle doors aren't opening. When they are hit, they both try to open and I can feel the motors working, but they feel like they are stuck because I can't manually open them either when the doors are hit with the ball. Feels like they are caught on something. Any help would be appreciated.

#6030 1 year ago
Quoted from monte_:

I believe I know what the problem is but I don't know how to fix it. When I push down on the brass metal bracket it is getting stuck down in that position which does not allow the target to retract (see video).In the video, it pops back up, but most of the time it stays stuck down. I feel like the little brass arm that pushes down on the black bracket underneath is getting stuck on it somehow. Do i bend that little brass arm going down to fix it? I don't know. I assume the coil causes the bracket to push down in witch mode to cause the target to retract. I assume I am not having problem during regular play and only during witch mode is that the coil/bracket has nothing to do with retraction of the target when the ball hits it during regular gameplay. Lloyd, you have any thoughts on how to do this? I assume the coil overheats because it is staying stuck down.
[quoted image]

Is the decal bunching up and hanging on the metal edge?
If so scrape off the lower 1/4" of the decal to free it up.

It's easier to work on the mech if you take out the 4 screws with a magnetic screwdriver or a magnetic 1/4" nutdriver and ease it out.

It will still be attached by small wires but you can unplug the bigger ones to let you hang it in the harness to look at it.

#6031 1 year ago

Found it interesting that Jack announced at Vancouver the sales numbers for his games:

1. Wizard of Oz - 4,000
2. Hobbit - 2,000
3. Dialed In - 1,600

#6032 1 year ago
Quoted from knobstone:

Found it interesting that Jack announced at Vancouver the sales numbers for his games:
1. Wizard of Oz - 4,000
2. Hobbit - 2,000
3. Dialed In - 1,600

I missed that so thanks for sharing, I'm a bit surprised that DI hasn't outsold TH, I guess the theme + price point must be a factor but they can probably keep cranking out DIs as long as they can sell them since there's no license to renew.

#6033 1 year ago
Quoted from knobstone:

Found it interesting that Jack announced at Vancouver the sales numbers for his games:
1. Wizard of Oz - 4,000
2. Hobbit - 2,000
3. Dialed In - 1,600

Interesting data...

#6034 1 year ago
Quoted from knobstone:

Found it interesting that Jack announced at Vancouver the sales numbers for his games:
1. Wizard of Oz - 4,000
2. Hobbit - 2,000
3. Dialed In - 1,600

Those are great numbers.
Similar to William's numbers per title.

Way to go JJP!

$60 million in sales? Wow.

#6035 1 year ago

Not sure what distributors pay for the game nor how many games were direct sales, but at an avg sales price of say $7500 thats $57M in revenue, which isn't bad, but probably not enough to be profitable...I hope their numbers continue to increase to the point where they become profitable...

#6036 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Not sure what distributors pay for the game nor how many games were direct sales, but at an avg sales price of say $7500 thats $57M in revenue, which isn't bad, but probably not enough to be profitable...I hope their numbers continue to increase to the point where they become profitable...

All they have to do at this point is continue making titles that sell in similar numbers.

That's really the art of it all.

They have already changed many things in the industry through innovation and service.

#6037 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

All they have to do at this point is continue making titles that sell in similar numbers.
That's really the art of it all.
They have already changed many things in the industry through innovation and service.

I agree...

#6038 1 year ago

So I filed a ticket on JJP site to get the WOZ mylar kit for my pin. I got a response pointing me where to but it on the site for 9.99, great! Add it to the cart... shipping is 16.75!?. Really ? I mean its a thin piece of film, maybe weighing a few grams

#6039 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

So I filed a ticket on JJP site to get the WOZ mylar kit for my pin. I got a response pointing me where to but it on the site for 9.99, great! Add it to the cart... shipping is 16.75!?. Really ? I mean its a thin piece of film, maybe weighing a few grams

I got the exact same response....although I didn't realize shipping was $16.75...thats ridiculous....

#6040 1 year ago

Its actually worse...for some BS reason their charging a $3.00 handling fee....WTF...I'm all for JJP making a good profit, but $29 for mylar that probably cost them less than $1 to make and certainly less than $3 to ship is beyond crazy....

#6041 1 year ago

I'd call them and talk to Frank, see if he can help you out with that.

#6042 1 year ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I'd call them and talk to Frank, see if he can help you out with that.

It looks like their shipping and handling fees are fixed....clearly fine if your ordering heavy larger parts, but not on a $10 piece of mylar....

#6043 1 year ago
Quoted from knobstone:

Found it interesting that Jack announced at Vancouver the sales numbers for his games:
1. Wizard of Oz - 4,000
2. Hobbit - 2,000
3. Dialed In - 1,600

I'd be curious about the breakdown between operators and home use owners. 1$ a game does make it seem hard to make a profit and for some reasons, unlike arcade, when 2 pinballs are next to each other the difference in value that would explain a higher game price doesn't jump up to people's mind.

#6044 1 year ago

The more it goes the more I wish Dorothy was actually singing SOTR especially because I love this song. I understand there's a story with rights to get the song, but I'm wondering if there's a way to replace the sound file with its equivalent but home made with the song. I'm not looking at messing anymore with the code, but this would be a really cool mod.

#6045 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

It looks like their shipping and handling fees are fixed....clearly fine if your ordering heavy larger parts, but not on a $10 piece of mylar....

I meant with the shipping fees, I may be wrong but it's worth a shot at least.

#6046 1 year ago
Quoted from adol75:

The more it goes the more I wish Dorothy was actually singing SOTR especially because I love this song. I understand there's a story with rights to get the song, but I'm wondering if there's a way to replace the sound file with its equivalent but home made with the song. I'm not looking at messing anymore with the code, but this would be a really cool mod.

Agree.

#6047 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

So I filed a ticket on JJP site to get the WOZ mylar kit for my pin. I got a response pointing me where to but it on the site for 9.99, great! Add it to the cart... shipping is 16.75!?. Really ? I mean its a thin piece of film, maybe weighing a few grams

I just cut sheets of my own mylar on my wifes cricut cutting plotter for my FH (worked out pretty good), i may just do the same for WOZ (they sent me a kit for free years back but it was the wrong kit, instead of clear mylar, its got the artwork underneath in case you are covering up wear)

1 week later
#6048 1 year ago

I am a fairly new owner for of WOZ, so my questions probably are such that have been already been asked and answered. In any case, if you can give a few pointers, it would be great.

These are the problems that I have noticed:

1) sometimes I notice that the monkey goes down its rail and tries to catch the ball at the magnet, but the ball has not been captured to the magnet. So then the monkey just goes up again without the ball.

2) the hounted forest -sign on the left. There is a tiny red light, but its not working.

Also, are there supposed to be some leds in the hands of the haunted forest trees (on the pop bumbers)?

Thank you for any tips on how to rectify the above!

#6049 1 year ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I am a fairly new owner for of WOZ, so my questions probably are such that have been already been asked and answered. In any case, if you can give a few pointers, it would be great.
These are the problems that I have noticed:
1) sometimes I notice that the monkey goes down its rail and tries to catch the ball at the magnet, but the ball has not been captured to the magnet. So then the monkey just goes up again without the ball.
2) the hounted forest -sign on the left. There is a tiny red light, but its not working.
Also, are there supposed to be some leds in the hands of the haunted forest trees (on the pop bumbers)?
Thank you for any tips on how to rectify the above!

I also had the red led light not working on the haunted forest sign. Starting in May 2018 submitted several tickets, voicemails and received no response. Then was finaly able to talk to Frank at JJP in July of this year about replacing the wireless harness for the light. Unfortunately, the wiring harness is not listed as a part in the WOZ manual. Frank informed he would talk to the engineers about the part, but still no response after repeated voicemails, tickets. and emails. I then decided to build another harness and determined that the wires from the forest sign were incorrectly installed to another harness underneath the playfield. I also want to mention that Frank is great talk to and is been very helpful with other issues, but again very frustrating.

Bottom line: After spending close to $18,000 on two JJ pinball machines, it's very disappointing that I can not even get a LED light replaced from this company.

IMG_2259 (resized).jpg

#6050 1 year ago
Quoted from knobstone:

I also had the red led light not working on the haunted forest sign. Starting in May 2018 submitted several tickets, voicemails and received no response. Then was able to talk to Frank at JJP in July of this year about replacing the wireless harness for the light. Unfortunately, the wiring harness is not listed as a part in the WOZ manual. Frank informed he would talk to the engineers about the part, still no response after repeated voicemails and tickets I then decided to build another harness and determined that the wires from the forest sign were incorrectly installed to another harness underneath the playfield. I also want to mention that Frank is great talk to and is been very helpful with other issues, but again very frustrating.
Bottom line: After spending close to $20,000 on two JJ pinball machines, it's very disappointing that I can not even get a LED light replaced from this company.
[quoted image]

Thanks for the info. I am equally frustrated for the lack of support and no conclusion on replacing my lockdown bar for my DI, as mine looks like it has been poorly handpainted rather than powdercoated.

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