Adjust it so it does.

It's the same part as the one I pictured. Here is both sides. Same in every WOZ.

LTG : )

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It's a good thing you didn't put two yellow circles down there LTG!!

Some days I amaze myself.

I hope it helps the person sort this out.

LTG : )

The mech looks like it's in good order, the drop target tab is intact and above the switch actuator arm.

So my question is does the switch register in the switch test if manually actuated?

Does the switch make a tiny click when manually actuated?

This would be good to know

You can manually actuate the switch with your finger while in switch test mode with the playfield up.

Yes the switch works when manually activated in matrix mode. It does click and light up green. I have a feeling the black part that lloyd circled in yellow that pushes on the silver arm is not working or stuck. When the winkie target is down there is no pressure on the silver arm. I will check after kids are put to bed. Appreciate everyones help. I feel like its dorothy’s fault.... she is always asking me to rescue her

Adjust the switch. Loosen the two screws that hold it on a little, turn switch body so the arm gets more pressure, then tighten the two screws back up.

LTG : )

See the red arrows - loosen those two screws a little. See the yellow arrow - push the switch body down a little that direction, the grooved slot was made just for that. Tighten the screws.

LTG : )

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Do i need to do anything to make the black piece that pushes on the arm to move better when winkie target drops if that is what is sticking?

Does the drop target move up and down ? Push it up it locks, knock it and it drops ?

If so don't worry about that black piece, it's part of the drop target.

The plunger in the coil that pushes it up, does it move up and down freely ?

LTG : )

Blue arrow points to the lock nut on the end of the plunger. Your plunger pushes the drop target up and then drops back down. Does it move freely ?

LTG : )

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It moves freely and I did loosen the 2 screws and adjusted the switch body like you said and now it works perfectly. Now it is going to be much harder to rescue Dorothy. Thanks for all the help. One more simple question. My inlane sensors( metal wires that are raised) sometimes get stuck down after the ball rolls over them. I noticed that on my other pinball games they are very straight up and down but woz they bend in. It is as simple as bending them with my fingers as to straighten them or should I do something else?

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Please do something else.

See where the arrow is pointing ? The arm of that switch is rubbing on the side of the wood slot the arm goes up and down in. Under the playfield is a metal bracket with two screws holding the whole switch. Loosen the screws a little and turn the bracket so the arm is centered in that slot in the playfield. Retighten them.

LTG : )

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You can bend them. But from the top isn't going to work. Then you'd be better off and remove the bracket they are on and lower them and then bend as needed and reinstall. Careful so you don't effect the flat part that pushes the tiny knob into the switch body.

That wireform part of the switch sticking up should be nice and straight up and down, not leaning to either side. And centered in the slot they go through the playfield in.

LTG : )

Thanks again Lloyd for the help. I will try that tomorrow.

We've had our WOZ ECLE for a while and play it all the time. We have had NO problems with light boards or anything else beyound normal wear and tear (had a rubber break and balls become magnetized sticking in the trough).
I asked the same question you did. Standard(NIB), 75th(NIB) or used ECLE. We went with the ECLE and DO NOT REGRET IT.

So I was just checking to see if my ECLE had Mylar and it does, but not in the pop bumpers and not in the state fair pop area. Is this something I can order from JJP? I thought someone posted previously about this?

They were providing the precision cut mylar for free a couple years ago.

NEW Interactive Wizard of Oz Game Guide: http://pinballzoo.com/Games/GameTips?id=885

- Shot Map displays info for selected rule
- Optimized for Cell Phones

Please check it out

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WOZ RR LE on it's way to me. Can't wait!

Open up a ticket with support, they will probably send it to you for free (they have in the past).

Awesome!!!

Is there a spot On The website to open a ticket?

jerseyjackpinball.com under Support.

LTG : )

http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Support-Form/

LTG : )

Playing with the boy today. Swapping between Tron & WoZ is hella disorienting. Games are so different. And both so awesome.

And the boy is in pretty good form--gotta back into regular play with him!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/njGmKHLERNLYuY8s8

Thanks,
-Jason

I was changing the rubbers for my WOZ and noticed that there are some very difficult ones. Anyone know of any shortcuts on how to exchange them (= especially without removing the ramp or the castle miniplayfield)? It looks like removing the ramp is a difficult task. Have a look at the pic, thanks!

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Nepi23 I just installed full Titan rubbers on mine. It’s all about the right tools. To answer your question no you don’t have to remove the ramp or the castle playfield. The ones near the top rollovers are the toughest. I just loosened the right ramp so I could lift it slightly. Also you will probably need to remove the metal Spacers to allow more room. I used a combination of a long screw driver and an short 90 degree angled one. For the sling under the munchkin playfield here is a good video

I just replaced the rubber of the sling under the playfield, my biggest hassle was the nut under the ramp as I didn't want to remove the ramp. What took me the longest time was the back and forth trips to the hardware store to find the right tool. Screw driver wouldn't pass, wrench was too long etc...

I would surely be interested in getting a list of must have tools from the Woz veterans

What was the one that worked for you in this instance?

I've found what works in Bally/Williams ( and many other pins ) works in WOZ.

My basics are nut drivers, 5/32nds allen wrench. Pliers, wire cutter, small vice grip. Soldering iron.

You basically have a Williams DMD era pin there, they just snuck a motherboard and hard drive in it.

LTG : )

There's one nut under the ramp that's really hard to reach, I couldn't get it with the nut driver, so I used a flat flexible wrench to reach it (this tool is magic actually !) and a bent plier to pull the rubber in place (I have big fingers though, not the best for pinball maintenance !)

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What size is the wrench?

9mm. I didn't check the other nuts, but I do hope all of them are the same size !

Ok, so 11/32"

That sounds about right, thanks!

Just set up my new WOZ. I have 2 small clear plastics with a slot for a screw. Anyone know what these are for? And what looks like a promo plastic but has slots also.

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The little plastics with slots are there so you can insert them on the larger promo plastic. It creates a “stand” if you'd like to display it somewhere.

Yup, makes sense. Kind of like the catapult on MM.
thanks

I bought mine NIB, 3 year’s ago, still love it. I didn’t get that with mine. Bum deal. I sure do recommend getting a Cliffys set for your beauty.

Hey guys had an odd thing happen today. My buddy was playing my WOZ and all of the sudden all playfield lights went out...? Spotlights and throne room lights where the only ones on. I lifted the playfield to look st connections, and everything looked fine. Turned the game off and back on again... and all lights worked ? Very odd

Spot lights, throne room light, coin chute lights, are 12 volt and nothing to do with playfield LEDs.

Playfield LEDs may have been a glitch.

LTG : )

Lights out crystal ball mode?
What version code?

I'm finally in the club & WOZ is absolutely an amazing machine. The quality, presentation & gameplay is above & beyond, as no other pinball manufacturer can match. JJP has established & raised the bar to the upper echelon, which currently is the ultimate threshold of all pinball endeavor!

I have two questions in regards to minor concerns w/ our WOZ....

1. The monkey magnet switch is registering as being a closed switch. There appears to be no issues w/ the magnet at this time ~ so should I be concerned w/ this?

2. In attraction mode, the house spins constantly. Then there is game played, then it doesn't spin at all. Is this normal & how do I activate the house to not spin at all in the attract mode? I don't want to wear out the motor.

If the monkey grabbing the ball works, I wouldn't worry about this.

That isn't right. I'd unplug the house motor and go to jerseyjackpinball.com and under Support open a ticket on the help desk. Something that controls the house isn't working. The engineer might need to look into it.

LTG : )

I installed the Cliffy Munchkin PF protector yesterday.

Not too tricky, except for 1 discrepancy between my machine (ECLE #196) & both the Cliffy & JJP manuals.
A heads-up to you, in case this applies to you.

There was no 2-pin connector under the PF for the black & violet wires. My machine had 2 pairs of black & purple wires snake up through the small hole. I thought perhaps the connector shown in the Cliffy documentation had simply been stuffed up through the little hole & I'd see it on the topside upon Munchkin PF removal.
Nope.

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Upon removal of the Munchkin PF, I found those 2 black & 2 violet wires terminated in this little 2-pin 90-deg connectordoodle under the "W" in RAINBOW. See red circles in images below. There was enough slack to pull the Munchkin PF up a bit & then undo this connector here, so it worked out fine, but I did scratch my head for a while on this one.

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Installation was otherwise straightforward. Took less than an hour, with 2 phone call interruptions & being stumped by The Case of the Mysterious Missing Connector.

While I had it off, I put a new band on that sideways sling under the O-Z rollovers & did some light cleaning.
Hooray!

Thanks,
-Jason

My Green lighting for the wizard is really dim...is there an easy way to turn that up? looks like there is a small LED strip lighting it?

Might be wearing out.
It's just 12v strip of 3 LEDs.

Get one from JJP or a small quantity of green strip lights online and solder it in.

Many have replaced this strip including myself. They quit working after a while. Totally worth replacing and it is a pretty easy swap.

Great thanks guys....I'll order one from JJP

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