(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

5 years ago



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There are 10027 posts in this topic. You are on page 120 of 201.
#5951 1 year ago
Quoted from monte_:

the horizontal metal piece does not fall enough backward to push on the small green button to light up the switch.

Adjust it so it does.

Quoted from monte_:

The underside of my target assembly looks different than the one shown by Lloyd. I do not have a cylindrical metal piece that pushes on the thin metal piece to activate the switch like shown by Lloyd

It's the same part as the one I pictured. Here is both sides. Same in every WOZ.

LTG : )

IMG_0436 (resized).JPGIMG_0437 (resized).JPG
#5952 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Orange circle around the arm/lever on the switch. Yellow circle around the tab on the drop target that closes the switch going down and releases it going up.
LTG : )[quoted image]

It's a good thing you didn't put two yellow circles down there LTG!!

#5953 1 year ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

It's a good thing you didn't put two yellow circles down there LTG!!

Some days I amaze myself.

I hope it helps the person sort this out.

LTG : )

#5954 1 year ago
Quoted from monte_:

I checked the matrix switch #73 and it doesn't work if I have the ball manually hit the winkie target, but if I manually reach underneath the play field and pull on the small horizontal piece of metal back all the way the matrix switch does activate and light up green on the testing as shown in picture 1. Basically when the winkie target drops, the horizontal metal piece does not fall enough backward to push on the small green button to light up the switch. The underside of my target assembly looks different than the one shown by Lloyd. I do not have a cylindrical metal piece that pushes on the thin metal piece to activate the switch like shown by Lloyd I do have a newer version wizard of oz ruby red made more recently. There is nothing that pushes on the lever to activate the switch at this time when the winkie target drops back. Maybe they have a new assembly piece. I know I am a newbie, but I think Nokoro was on to something when he said that thicker vertical metal piece should be on the other side of the thin horizontal lever that activates the switch. Even if the switch is activated, does that mean the winkie target will pop up when playing? Does anybody have a newer woz rr and can show me the underside of their winkie target assembly?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The mech looks like it's in good order, the drop target tab is intact and above the switch actuator arm.

So my question is does the switch register in the switch test if manually actuated?

Does the switch make a tiny click when manually actuated?

This would be good to know

You can manually actuate the switch with your finger while in switch test mode with the playfield up.

#5955 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The mech looks like it's in good order, the drop target tab is intact and above the switch actuator arm.
So my question is does the switch register in the switch test if manually actuated?
Does the switch make a tiny click when manually actuated?
This would be good to know
You can manually actuate the switch with your finger while in switch test mode with the playfield up.

Yes the switch works when manually activated in matrix mode. It does click and light up green. I have a feeling the black part that lloyd circled in yellow that pushes on the silver arm is not working or stuck. When the winkie target is down there is no pressure on the silver arm. I will check after kids are put to bed. Appreciate everyones help. I feel like its dorothy’s fault.... she is always asking me to rescue her

#5956 1 year ago
Quoted from monte_:

When the winkie target is down there is no pressure on the silver arm.

Adjust the switch. Loosen the two screws that hold it on a little, turn switch body so the arm gets more pressure, then tighten the two screws back up.

LTG : )

#5957 1 year ago

See the red arrows - loosen those two screws a little. See the yellow arrow - push the switch body down a little that direction, the grooved slot was made just for that. Tighten the screws.

LTG : )

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#5958 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

See the red arrows - loosen those two screws a little. See the yellow arrow - push the switch body down a little that direction, the grooved slot was made just for that. Tighten the screws.
LTG : )
[quoted image]

Do i need to do anything to make the black piece that pushes on the arm to move better when winkie target drops if that is what is sticking?

#5959 1 year ago
Quoted from monte_:

Do i need to do anything to make the black piece that pushes on the arm to move better when winkie target drops if that is what is sticking?

Does the drop target move up and down ? Push it up it locks, knock it and it drops ?

If so don't worry about that black piece, it's part of the drop target.

The plunger in the coil that pushes it up, does it move up and down freely ?

LTG : )

#5960 1 year ago

Blue arrow points to the lock nut on the end of the plunger. Your plunger pushes the drop target up and then drops back down. Does it move freely ?

LTG : )

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#5961 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Blue arrow points to the lock nut on the end of the plunger. Your plunger pushes the drop target up and then drops back down. Does it move freely ?
LTG : )
[quoted image]

It moves freely and I did loosen the 2 screws and adjusted the switch body like you said and now it works perfectly. Now it is going to be much harder to rescue Dorothy. Thanks for all the help. One more simple question. My inlane sensors( metal wires that are raised) sometimes get stuck down after the ball rolls over them. I noticed that on my other pinball games they are very straight up and down but woz they bend in. It is as simple as bending them with my fingers as to straighten them or should I do something else?

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#5962 1 year ago
Quoted from monte_:

It is as simple as bending them with my fingers as to straighten them or should I do something else?

Please do something else.

See where the arrow is pointing ? The arm of that switch is rubbing on the side of the wood slot the arm goes up and down in. Under the playfield is a metal bracket with two screws holding the whole switch. Loosen the screws a little and turn the bracket so the arm is centered in that slot in the playfield. Retighten them.

LTG : )

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#5963 1 year ago

You can bend them. But from the top isn't going to work. Then you'd be better off and remove the bracket they are on and lower them and then bend as needed and reinstall. Careful so you don't effect the flat part that pushes the tiny knob into the switch body.

That wireform part of the switch sticking up should be nice and straight up and down, not leaning to either side. And centered in the slot they go through the playfield in.

LTG : )

#5964 1 year ago

Thanks again Lloyd for the help. I will try that tomorrow.

#5965 1 year ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

I am looking to possibly join the club and purchase a WOZ. Debating between buying a standard nib or a used Emerald City Edition.
Can anyone tell me a bit about the Emerald City LE Edition? I've read it was the first group made. Can anyone tell me what the price was new and how they are holding up over time? New standards are 8k, right?
Any insight is greatly appreciated.

We've had our WOZ ECLE for a while and play it all the time. We have had NO problems with light boards or anything else beyound normal wear and tear (had a rubber break and balls become magnetized sticking in the trough).
I asked the same question you did. Standard(NIB), 75th(NIB) or used ECLE. We went with the ECLE and DO NOT REGRET IT.

#5966 1 year ago

So I was just checking to see if my ECLE had Mylar and it does, but not in the pop bumpers and not in the state fair pop area. Is this something I can order from JJP? I thought someone posted previously about this?

#5967 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

So I was just checking to see if my ECLE had Mylar and it does, but not in the pop bumpers and not in the state fair pop area. Is this something I can order from JJP? I thought someone posted previously about this?

They were providing the precision cut mylar for free a couple years ago.

10
#5968 1 year ago

NEW Interactive Wizard of Oz Game Guide: http://pinballzoo.com/Games/GameTips?id=885

- Shot Map displays info for selected rule
- Optimized for Cell Phones

Please check it out

pbz_woz (resized).png
#5969 1 year ago

WOZ RR LE on it's way to me. Can't wait!

#5970 1 year ago
Quoted from boomgopinball:

The munchkin color tells you which munchkin mode is available if you spin around the munchkin pf enough times ( I think it's 7 to start with). If you look to the right of the mini flipper there are little colored squares that tell you which mode corresponds to that color. Red is Welcome to Munchkin land, Blue is Munchkin frenzy, Green is Lollipop lullaby, and orange is Munchkin Multiball ( you need to start the previous 3 to qualify this). You qualify the Munchkin playfield by completing the rainbow targets, then pop it up the center ramp, spin around 7 times and Robert's your mother's brother. Now, if you complete the rainbow targets you can basically 'pick" which mode you want to go for before you shoot it up the center ramp by hitting the rainbow targets again. Each hit changes it from red to blue to green ( if you haven't started any, if you have it skips the ones you already started). I prefer blue (munchkin frenzy). If you stack that with an emerald city MB and multiply it with a crystal ball mode you're in for a shower of points.

The owl's eyes indicate if you have a haunted forest mode running. You hit enough pops to qualify the mode (7), this will start the arrow near the hainted forest flashing, then hit it into the saucer on the right THROUGH THE POPS not the spinner. This starts a haunted forest mode.
There are a number of game walk throughs available on the next. But this one is the best ( J/K) It's a very very complex game and I still find things to do!

#5971 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

So I was just checking to see if my ECLE had Mylar and it does, but not in the pop bumpers and not in the state fair pop area. Is this something I can order from JJP? I thought someone posted previously about this?

Open up a ticket with support, they will probably send it to you for free (they have in the past).

#5972 1 year ago
Quoted from T7:

NEW Interactive Wizard of Oz Game Guide: http://pinballzoo.com/Games/GameTips?id=885
- Shot Map displays info for selected rule
- Optimized for Cell Phones
Please check it out[quoted image]

Awesome!!!

#5973 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Open up a ticket with support, they will probably send it to you for free (they have in the past).

Is there a spot On The website to open a ticket?

#5974 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Is there a spot On The website to open a ticket?

jerseyjackpinball.com under Support.

LTG : )

#5976 1 year ago

Playing with the boy today. Swapping between Tron & WoZ is hella disorienting. Games are so different. And both so awesome.

And the boy is in pretty good form--gotta back into regular play with him!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/njGmKHLERNLYuY8s8

Thanks,
-Jason

#5977 1 year ago

I was changing the rubbers for my WOZ and noticed that there are some very difficult ones. Anyone know of any shortcuts on how to exchange them (= especially without removing the ramp or the castle miniplayfield)? It looks like removing the ramp is a difficult task. Have a look at the pic, thanks!

WOZ-rubbers (resized).jpg
#5978 1 year ago

nepi23 I just installed full Titan rubbers on mine. It’s all about the right tools. To answer your question no you don’t have to remove the ramp or the castle playfield. The ones near the top rollovers are the toughest. I just loosened the right ramp so I could lift it slightly. Also you will probably need to remove the metal Spacers to allow more room. I used a combination of a long screw driver and an short 90 degree angled one. For the sling under the munchkin playfield here is a good video

#5979 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

nepi23 I just installed full Titan rubbers on mine. It’s all about the right tools. To answer your question no you don’t have to remove the ramp or the castle playfield. The ones near the top rollovers are the toughest. I just loosened the right ramp so I could lift it slightly. Also you will probably need to remove the metal Spacers to allow more room. I used a combination of a long screw driver and an short 90 degree angled one. For the sling under the munchkin playfield here is a good video

I just replaced the rubber of the sling under the playfield, my biggest hassle was the nut under the ramp as I didn't want to remove the ramp. What took me the longest time was the back and forth trips to the hardware store to find the right tool. Screw driver wouldn't pass, wrench was too long etc...

I would surely be interested in getting a list of must have tools from the Woz veterans

#5980 1 year ago
Quoted from adol75:

What took me the longest time was the back and forth trips to the hardware store to find the right tool. Screw driver wouldn't pass, wrench was too long etc...
I would surely be interested in getting a list of must have tools from the Woz veterans

What was the one that worked for you in this instance?

#5981 1 year ago
Quoted from adol75:

I would surely be interested in getting a list of must have tools from the Woz veterans

I've found what works in Bally/Williams ( and many other pins ) works in WOZ.

My basics are nut drivers, 5/32nds allen wrench. Pliers, wire cutter, small vice grip. Soldering iron.

You basically have a Williams DMD era pin there, they just snuck a motherboard and hard drive in it.

LTG : )

#5982 1 year ago
Quoted from dnaman:

What was the one that worked for you in this instance?

There's one nut under the ramp that's really hard to reach, I couldn't get it with the nut driver, so I used a flat flexible wrench to reach it (this tool is magic actually !) and a bent plier to pull the rubber in place (I have big fingers though, not the best for pinball maintenance !)

flat wrench (resized).jpeg
#5983 1 year ago
Quoted from adol75:

There's one nut under the ramp that's really hard to reach, I couldn't get it with the nut driver, so I used a flat flexible wrench to reach it (this tool is magic actually !) and a bent plier to pull the rubber in place (I have big fingers though, not the best for pinball maintenance !)[quoted image]

What size is the wrench?

#5984 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

What size is the wrench?

9mm. I didn't check the other nuts, but I do hope all of them are the same size !

#5985 1 year ago
Quoted from adol75:

9mm. I didn't check the other nuts, but I do hope all of them are the same size !

Ok, so 11/32"

That sounds about right, thanks!

#5986 1 year ago

Just set up my new WOZ. I have 2 small clear plastics with a slot for a screw. Anyone know what these are for? And what looks like a promo plastic but has slots also.

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#5987 1 year ago
Quoted from avspin:

Just set up my new WOZ. I have 2 small clear plastics with a slot for a screw. Anyone know what these are for? And what looks like a promo plastic but has slots also.
[quoted image][quoted image]

The little plastics with slots are there so you can insert them on the larger promo plastic. It creates a “stand” if you'd like to display it somewhere.

#5988 1 year ago

Yup, makes sense. Kind of like the catapult on MM.
thanks

#5989 1 year ago
Quoted from avspin:

Just set up my new WOZ. I have 2 small clear plastics with a slot for a screw. Anyone know what these are for? And what looks like a promo plastic but has slots also.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I bought mine NIB, 3 year’s ago, still love it. I didn’t get that with mine. Bum deal. I sure do recommend getting a Cliffys set for your beauty.

#5990 1 year ago

Hey guys had an odd thing happen today. My buddy was playing my WOZ and all of the sudden all playfield lights went out...? Spotlights and throne room lights where the only ones on. I lifted the playfield to look st connections, and everything looked fine. Turned the game off and back on again... and all lights worked ? Very odd

#5991 1 year ago

Spot lights, throne room light, coin chute lights, are 12 volt and nothing to do with playfield LEDs.

Playfield LEDs may have been a glitch.

LTG : )

#5992 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Hey guys had an odd thing happen today. My buddy was playing my WOZ and all of the sudden all playfield lights went out...? Spotlights and throne room lights where the only ones on. I lifted the playfield to look st connections, and everything looked fine. Turned the game off and back on again... and all lights worked ? Very odd

Lights out crystal ball mode?
What version code?

#5993 1 year ago

I'm finally in the club & WOZ is absolutely an amazing machine. The quality, presentation & gameplay is above & beyond, as no other pinball manufacturer can match. JJP has established & raised the bar to the upper echelon, which currently is the ultimate threshold of all pinball endeavor!

I have two questions in regards to minor concerns w/ our WOZ....

1. The monkey magnet switch is registering as being a closed switch. There appears to be no issues w/ the magnet at this time ~ so should I be concerned w/ this?

2. In attraction mode, the house spins constantly. Then there is game played, then it doesn't spin at all. Is this normal & how do I activate the house to not spin at all in the attract mode? I don't want to wear out the motor.

#5994 1 year ago
Quoted from Ockeyhead:

1. The monkey magnet switch is registering as being a closed switch. There appears to be no issues w/ the magnet at this time ~ so should I be concerned w/ this?

If the monkey grabbing the ball works, I wouldn't worry about this.

Quoted from Ockeyhead:

2. In attraction mode, the house spins constantly. Then there is game played, then it doesn't spin at all. Is this normal & how do I activate the house to not spin at all in the attract mode? I don't want to wear out the motor.

That isn't right. I'd unplug the house motor and go to jerseyjackpinball.com and under Support open a ticket on the help desk. Something that controls the house isn't working. The engineer might need to look into it.

LTG : )

#5995 1 year ago

I installed the Cliffy Munchkin PF protector yesterday.

Not too tricky, except for 1 discrepancy between my machine (ECLE #196) & both the Cliffy & JJP manuals.
A heads-up to you, in case this applies to you.

There was no 2-pin connector under the PF for the black & violet wires. My machine had 2 pairs of black & purple wires snake up through the small hole. I thought perhaps the connector shown in the Cliffy documentation had simply been stuffed up through the little hole & I'd see it on the topside upon Munchkin PF removal.
Nope.

1 (resized).png

Upon removal of the Munchkin PF, I found those 2 black & 2 violet wires terminated in this little 2-pin 90-deg connectordoodle under the "W" in RAINBOW. See red circles in images below. There was enough slack to pull the Munchkin PF up a bit & then undo this connector here, so it worked out fine, but I did scratch my head for a while on this one.

2 (resized).png

3 (resized).JPG

4 (resized).JPG

Installation was otherwise straightforward. Took less than an hour, with 2 phone call interruptions & being stumped by The Case of the Mysterious Missing Connector.

While I had it off, I put a new band on that sideways sling under the O-Z rollovers & did some light cleaning.
Hooray!

Thanks,
-Jason

#5996 1 year ago

My Green lighting for the wizard is really dim...is there an easy way to turn that up? looks like there is a small LED strip lighting it?

#5997 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

My Green lighting for the wizard is really dim...is there an easy way to turn that up? looks like there is a small LED strip lighting it?

Might be wearing out.
It's just 12v strip of 3 LEDs.

Get one from JJP or a small quantity of green strip lights online and solder it in.

#5998 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

My Green lighting for the wizard is really dim...is there an easy way to turn that up? looks like there is a small LED strip lighting it?

Many have replaced this strip including myself. They quit working after a while. Totally worth replacing and it is a pretty easy swap.

#5999 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Might be wearing out.
It's just 12v strip of 3 LEDs.
Get one from JJP or a small quantity of green strip lights online and solder it in.

Great thanks guys....I'll order one from JJP

#6000 1 year ago

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