Have a few 7.5v led cables that are flaky. Planning on getting some new ones. Any clue what they run? I didnt see them listed in the jjp store.

Been nodding away on my new woz. Got a whole bunch o goodies on! The hardest part was the cliffy for the castle VUK. Here is what she has now

• All new color matched total rubbers
• Cliffy’s on shooter lane, all VUK’s, drop target and munchkin playfield.
• Molded castle walls (waiting on the lantern)
• Tornado mod
• Molded emerald city
• Toto
• Target decals
• Mylar installed in front of Winkie target

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Thanks for that info! Well at least this leaves something for the future maybe?

Cheers.

Does yours have mylar in the pops/tree's? might be worth a double check, they did not start doing that until later I believe.

I believe they ran around $8 each when I ordered them. Need to call JJP to place order.

I have owned WOZ for the past 4 years and this is going to sound stupid....but is there a jackpot? If so how do you get it?

There are multiple awards that might be considered Jackpots, most notably the three items the Wizard awards during Emerald City MB (Diploma, Testimonial and Medal). However the only thing that is actually called Jackpots are awarded during Rescue Dorothy Multiball. You have the six main shots lit (Crystal Ball, Loop through pops, Winkie Drop Target, Ramp, Right Loop and Throne Room) and each award Jackpots (1x, 2x) for the first two shots and then a super Jackpot for the third (.5x Jackpots after the third for each shot). You can also get a Super Jackpot on the Castle mini PF (though in general it's not a good idea) and if you are really, really good you can score the Mega Jackpot after hitting 3x all the lit shots, lighting all the RESCUE targets and then doing a one shot loop to castle doors on the Castle Mini PF. Good luck with that!

There may be Jackpots in SWOTR final wizard mode but I've never gotten there so I don't know.

Just curious, but does anyone know what the Mega Jackpot is worth, not that I'll ever get it . . . . ?

I wandered the same thing and actually saw it on a video, it was only like 10K points or something low like that. I couldn't believe that something so nearly impossible to achieve was worth so little.

EDIT: Here's the video I watched, start around 18 minutes in if you want to see it. I believe in the newer code that the RESCUE lights do let you know which targets you've hit but I'm not positive about that. His score for the Mega jackpot was 160K because it was 2xd by the CB mode, so it is actually 80K by itself. Still not many points considering how hard it is to achieve.

Joining the club soon... first JJP, first widebody. Exciting times! It's a stock ECLE w/ 7.5 boards & the Mirco playfield... it only has about 30 plays so I'd like to keep it nice. I'm not going to put enough plays on it to warrant a full cliffy set, but are there any individual must-haves for trouble areas I should pick up?

Cheers!

It's a pain but you HAVE to do something to protect the edge of the Munchkin Playfield unless it already has something. It doesn't matter how much you plan on playing it, one hit to the edge can chip it and take artwork with it. If you don't want to put the cliffy on it at least put a layer or two of mylar on it.

^^what he said^^

I just did the munchkin playfield cliffy... I don’t know why folks think is so painful. I actually found it to be really straight forward... now the castle VUK that’s a doozie

Thanks I’ll pick that guy up. It can’t possibly be worse than removing every white water ramp, replacing all the switches, and re-assembling, right? Because that was NOT a good time!

80k points for one shot is nothing to sneeze at in WOZ, but yeah, I agree with you that I would have expected that jackpot to be worth a bit more.

Go for it, it really is a fantastic pinball. Mine now has close to 1000 games and I got it 2 months ago

+1 Go for it! it’s my favorite game in my collection. It’s just amazing

I am looking to possibly join the club and purchase a WOZ. Debating between buying a standard nib or a used Emerald City Edition.

Can anyone tell me a bit about the Emerald City LE Edition? I've read it was the first group made. Can anyone tell me what the price was new and how they are holding up over time? New standards are 8k, right?

Any insight is greatly appreciated.

Better than IJ?

Its the only version with the wooden apron which makes it pretty unique. The only debate you'll find about getting it is about the light boards. Some have had problems; others have not. With a new standard, you can get the 2.0 boards which are supposed to be more reliable. It is not an insignificant decision.

The ECLE also has the direct print cabinets....which is really sweet.

Utesichiban well... right now yes, BUT Indy will never leave my collection it’s one of my grail pins. Right now woz is still “new” and so much to keep me busy . Indy is one of the best games ever.

I agree. It is still my favorite but the new games always are fun and take priority for a while.

I hope I can find a HUO WOZ in my area. Not as many people as Nor Cal so may take some time.

I know there are some cool things about it but have to admit the board thing makes me a bit nervous.

What do ECLE's typically go for? I'm guessing those with the more reliable 7.5v boards go for a bit more, right?

I have an ECLEWOZ with 7.5v boards in it and have had very few problems over the thousands of plays on it.

My

I was nervous too, but the majority of the heaistation came from issues I’d heard... but low and behold where much more prominent on the 5v boards. I have had zero issues with mine.

My ECLE was one of the last made and it only had 24 plays on it from the previous owner and I paid 7500.00 - it does have buffered boards. Personally I didn’t want a ruby red. The green fits the theme so much better imo. Additionally the direct print can which is gorgeous, and the wood apron. It’s special. For that I was willing to risk having 7.5 boards. But hey if one, or two goes I’ll just buy new ones . If you really want to go for it you can always upgrade to 2.0 boards but it’s about as involved as a playfield swap and you need to drill

I believe the key is to have the 7.5v "buffered" boards. If I remember correctly, JJP replaced the original non-buffered 5v boards with non-buffered 7.5v boards. They were an improvement but still had problems. JJP then released 7.5v buffered boards that eliminated most of the problems. At the time, JJP was also asking owners to send in the "bad" 5v boards when they were being replaced with the 7.5v buffered boards. I could be wrong, but I think JJP then refurbished many of the original 5v non-buffered boards into 5v buffered boards which have proven to be as reliable as the 7.5v buffered boards. At least that has been my experience with my early-build WOZECLE which now has all 5v buffered boards (replaced under warranty) and has been reliable ever since.

Post on the boards:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-75-buffer-boards

I have an original ECLE with the first set of boards and have never had an issue, touch wood (watch them break next time I play the game).

Also never digged the red bull that's a personal preference.

Thank you everyone. Generally, what is a good price for an ECLE and how much do the boards affect the value (if any)?

I have a 7,5V buffered version, got a few boards that died, but it's a breeze to fix and JJP is super helpful and reactive in sending replacement parts, added to the fact that it's a fantastic game I wouldn't worry too much about the boards.

The biggest concern to me is how the early release had no mylar protection anywhere which will inevitably damage the playfield, I would look more on that part than as a biggest long term concern.

This is so true. I had a part chipped in front of the Winkie target recently and I am in the process of repairing it and covering it with mylar.

I believe JJP will send out Mylar for those areas, so as long as there isn't any damage at the moment, one should be fine.

JJP did indeed generously send me free mylar a little while back (ECLE, second owner, not under warranty): forest, balloon, and Winkie areas.

Jason

My RR WOZ states I have a matrix switch #73 not working witch is the winkie target. Basically the target is staying down. I can manually push it up underneath the play field and when i hit the target it retracts so I don't think it is stuck. The coil that causes the winkie target to go down works, but the auto up coil is NOT working when i am in test mode. Any help appreciated. I am attaching pictures so let me know if anything looks out of place. Thanks.

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It looks like the arm of the micro switch that detects when the target is down is on top of the metal tab on the target instead of under it. So it will never be closed. Put it on the other side of the metal tab and see if that fixes it.

I assume you mean that the vertical thicker metal piece needs to behind the horizontal thin piece when looking at it in picture 2. How would tgey get reversed?

The switch arm is okay.

The switch might just need adjusting. Raise target. Go into Tests - Switches - Matrixed, push the arm of the switch down to close it, see if it registers on the screen. If it works, then check adjustment. The black tab on the drop target pushes the switch arm when going down closing the switch and releases it open when going up.

You can loosen the screws holding the switch and turn the switch body to easily adjust the switch to make it work better.

LTG : )

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Sorry. I stand corrected. Lloyd is of course right. I was getting confused by the picture. My switch arm once got bent back but I think it got caught on the other side of the black plastic tab not the metal piece. Sorry for the confusion.

No problem. We're just trying to get the guy going.

LTG : )

So the drop target does not raise when you go into coil test? Are all the other coils working properly?

Yes, if the door switch is pulled out.
You can go up or down in the tests.

I know you can test it, I was asking Monte if I understood his situation correctly and that his up coil is not firing.

It looks like his switch is misadjusted or came loose and isn't being actuated correctly.

I went into the single coil testing yesterday and the coil testing did work for the target pulling it down but it did not work for the coil test that brings the target back up. I didnt realize my winkie guard wasnt working until the machine told me that matrix switch 73 was not working (it shows up red in the switch testing). I havent played in a while but my kids play. I believe all the other coils are working because i played yesterday and the only thing that wasnt working was winkie target. Lloyd said to test switch which i will do tonight. Beyond that i guess i will call Jjp. Lloyd said that switch may need adjusting but i am not sure exactly how to do that. Inam a newbie at repairs. Thanks for the help.

Check the solder joints at that coils lugs. Might have a cold solder joint or broken wire. Carefully dig around the thin wires from the coil to the coil lugs for breaks or cracks.

LTG : )

If the coil to raise the target isn't working in coil test the problem isn't your switch. The game is telling you the switch isn't working because it hasn't seen it change state in a certain number of games. You'll want to check the wiring to the coil as Lloyd suggested and if possible check it with an ohm meter but you may also have a blown transistor or other problem.

I checked the matrix switch #73 and it doesn't work if I have the ball manually hit the winkie target, but if I manually reach underneath the play field and pull on the small horizontal piece of metal back all the way the matrix switch does activate and light up green on the testing as shown in picture 1. Basically when the winkie target drops, the horizontal metal piece does not fall enough backward to push on the small green button to light up the switch. The underside of my target assembly looks different than the one shown by Lloyd. I do not have a cylindrical metal piece that pushes on the thin metal piece to activate the switch like shown by Lloyd I do have a newer version wizard of oz ruby red made more recently. There is nothing that pushes on the lever to activate the switch at this time when the winkie target drops back. Maybe they have a new assembly piece. I know I am a newbie, but I think Nokoro was on to something when he said that thicker vertical metal piece should be on the other side of the thin horizontal lever that activates the switch. Even if the switch is activated, does that mean the winkie target will pop up when playing? Does anybody have a newer woz rr and can show me the underside of their winkie target assembly?

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Orange circle around the arm/lever on the switch. Yellow circle around the tab on the drop target that closes the switch going down and releases it going up.

LTG : )

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