(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

9 years ago


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There are 15,233 posts in this topic. You are on page 117 of 305.
#5801 5 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

Cliffy don't do Winkie Targets.

I got my lighted winkie targets at Mezel Mods, your choice of colors. They help a lot.

#5802 5 years ago

Anyone install the 2.0 conversion kit yet? Having a hell of a time moving my ELCE because it has the old boards. Might just keep it and convert it to 2.0 but am interested in hearing how hard/intense the install was.

#5803 5 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

Anyone install the 2.0 conversion kit yet? Having a hell of a time moving my ELCE because it has the old boards. Might just keep it and convert it to 2.0 but am interested in hearing how hard/intense the install was.

I didn't know a conversion kit was out, can you post a link. I've had a few led boards that died so far, nothing too annoying as it's the GI's and they are easy to trace and replace, but I surely wouldn't mind being done for good with changing them.

#5804 5 years ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

Anyone install the 2.0 conversion kit yet?

I have. To learn for tech support.

Now bear in mind, I didn't get a kit, more a box of parts. And some delays getting things that were missing. Your kit shouldn't have that issue.

PM me your email address and I'll email you the instructions.

Basically time consuming, nothing hard. Remove old LED boards, remove data harnesses and power cables. I cut some off flush with harnesses instead of cutting every cable tie and redoing them. Remove power supply.

Put in new big boards, even swap. Small boards you need to drill a pilot hole and use new screws. Instructions say two per board, one is enough. Mount B.A.G. Board and HUB board. Run cables and ethernet cables. Add new power supply then run power cables.

You do need to remove castle and spinning house playfields for this.

Take your time, do a good job. Figure about ten hours.

LTG : )

#5805 5 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

I didn't know a conversion kit was out, can you post a link.

Call factory to order. Try and get Shannon of Frank Becker.

LTG : )

#5806 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I have. To learn for tech support.
Now bear in mind, I didn't get a kit, more a box of parts. And some delays getting things that were missing. Your kit shouldn't have that issue.
PM me your email address and I'll email you the instructions.
Basically time consuming, nothing hard. Remove old LED boards, remove data harnesses and power cables. I cut some off flush with harnesses instead of cutting every cable tie and redoing them. Remove power supply.
Put in new big boards, even swap. Small boards you need to drill a pilot hole and use new screws. Instructions say two per board, one is enough. Mount B.A.G. Board and HUB board. Run cables and ethernet cables. Add new power supply then run power cables.
You do need to remove castle and spinning house playfields for this.
Take your time, do a good job. Figure about ten hours.
LTG : )

Thanks for the info. I would double your estimate since it took me like 4 hours to get the damn castle playfield off and back on correctly when I had to replace the boards under there lol.

#5807 5 years ago

I suggest you inventory your 2.0 kit when it arrives even if you aren't planning on making the swap immediately. Mine came missing a wire harness and I didn't find out till I had a 3 day weekend that I was going to use to make the swap. I knew that JJP would take care of me, (they always have, I can't say enough about the excellent JJP approach to service/support and their people, always top notch), I just wish I hadn't let it sit so long before I found out so I could have had the part in hand when I had the time.

#5808 5 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

I suggest you inventory your 2.0 kit when it arrives even if you aren't planning on making the swap immediately. Mine came missing a wire harness and I didn't find out till I had a 3 day weekend that I was going to use to make the swap. I knew that JJP would take care of me, (they always have, I can't say enough about the excellent JJP approach to service/support and their people, always top notch), I just wish I hadn't let it sit so long before I found out so I could have had the part in hand when I had the time.

Good point. I confirmed with JJP that the kit is out and it is $799. I may just hold out till if/when I have a large board go out before making the swap.

#5809 5 years ago

Does anyone have a 1.1 rainbow light board that fully works and wants to sell? PM me...

#5810 5 years ago

Can I get some help with a transformer problem? Not sure if its common but mine developed an extremely loud buzz after powering on for 5 mins. It gets so loud it can be heard over the music. I tried the old bash it was a hammer that has been suggested but didn't help. I was told it was due to plate vibration in the transformer, and used the existing holes to pass through some bolts to firm it all up, but now it gets so hot I have to turn it off after playing for an hour. Any other suggestions besides shelling out $500 for a new transformer?

#5811 5 years ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

I've heard people say the munchin area (wood edge) can be damaged but I haven't seen this after a few years. Ball doesn't seem to hit it.
I like the look of the wood edge.

When I got my WOZ in 2013, the edge of the mini-playfield (and its artwork, namely the black outline) near the right ramp was very susceptible to damage (due to airballs bouncing off the stand-up/ramp entrance). In fact, you could easily damage it with your very first ball in your very first game. So, before I plunged my first ball, I protected that part of the mini-playfield with a piece of beer foam, and later installed the cliffy edge protector shown below. I wonder if JJP eliminated that issue in newer games.
Cliffy Low Angle.JPGCliffy Low Angle.JPG

#5812 5 years ago
Quoted from Paul_from_Gilroy:

I wonder if JJP eliminated that issue in newer games.

No they didn't. My game was manufactured in January of 2018. Mine chipped within the first several games, AND within the first 30 days (warranty). I wasn't aware of this issue when I bought the machine or I would have taken the appropriate protective measures.

#5813 5 years ago
Quoted from dendoc:

Can I get some help with a transformer problem? Not sure if its common but mine developed an extremely loud buzz after powering on for 5 mins. It gets so loud it can be heard over the music. I tried the old bash it was a hammer that has been suggested but didn't help. I was told it was due to plate vibration in the transformer, and used the existing holes to pass through some bolts to firm it all up, but now it gets so hot I have to turn it off after playing for an hour. Any other suggestions besides shelling out $500 for a new transformer?

If it's getting hot I mean super hot it could have a short in the coil and will probably have to be replaced.

It would be good to know the resistance of a good transformer.

Then do a couple tests.

#5814 5 years ago

I need a little help here, or at least to know if it's common. I'm getting a lot of airballs, some of them hit the glass in a loud noise, no damage but it forces me in game to avoid hitting fast balls right away and instead to hold them on the flipper just in fear they would go flying.

Pretty much every ball that comes down straight from the top of the playfield goes in the air if hit directly. My pinball is slightly tilted down because I wanted to get a bit more speed and because I had a lot of balls that were diverted when touching the characters rollovers.

#5815 5 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

I need a little help here

Quoted from adol75:

My pinball is slightly tilted down because I wanted to get a bit more speed

LTG : )

#5816 5 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

I need a little help here, or at least to know if it's common. I'm getting a lot of airballs, some of them hit the glass in a loud noise, no damage but it forces me in game to avoid hitting fast balls right away and instead to hold them on the flipper just in fear they would go flying.
Pretty much every ball that comes down straight from the top of the playfield goes in the air if hit directly. My pinball is slightly tilted down because I wanted to get a bit more speed and because I had a lot of balls that were diverted when touching the characters rollovers.

Your pitch is too high and your flippers are set too strong.

Of course you are getting air balls

Set the pitch to 6.5.

Lower the flipper strength so that a clean shot from a cradled position to the ramp goes up smoothly but decelerates slightly at the top.

#5817 5 years ago
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:

I installed the 2.0 kit in my ECLE this weekend. This is the second 100% lamp replacement this machine has had, from 5V to 7.5V and now to 2.0. I had constant lamp issues with both sets. Extremely excited to put that behind me.
*It took two experienced (PF swap level) people approx 12 hours to do. A third helped assemble lamp brackets.
*The back half of the (very good) instructions pointed to manual pages with wiring I only could pull up on my phone, I recommend printing those pages first.
*You have to drill pilot holes for the GI boards. Terrifying at first, but fine.
*The new wiring harnesses for GI and single LED boards are so tight I had to re-drill and reposition some lamps. Again, get those manual pages first to see how the lamps should ideally be positioned. The instructions implied you can wing it. Do not.
*Ethernet cabling is awesome.
*The mini PFs are still the worst thing ever to remove.
*It turned on and everything worked! When has that happened to anyone after a huge project, ever?

Regarding 2.0 installation query above ^^^

BTW: No problems since the upgrade!

#5818 5 years ago

I like a pitch closer to 7 myself. I get an occasional airball but it’s rare. If your getting constant airballs ofd the flippers check the positioning of your rubbers.

#5819 5 years ago

I said slightly

#5820 5 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

I like a pitch closer to 7 myself. I get an occasional airball but it’s rare. If your getting constant airballs ofd the flippers check the positioning of your rubbers.

Thank you, that was it ! I noticed (what happens when you don't look), that the right rubber was sideways and almost touching the top of the flipper. I put it back in place and.... all is back in place !

#5821 5 years ago

One thing I've never seen posted anywhere is how to properly position a rubber flipper band on a flipper bat. Are you supposed to shove the band all the way down so the bottom of the band is touching the raised ridge? I usually install mine so there's a gap between the band and the ridge, and an equal gap on top. I figure I'll get less air balls that way.

#5822 5 years ago
Quoted from Paul_from_Gilroy:

One thing I've never seen posted anywhere is how to properly position a rubber flipper band on a flipper bat. Are you supposed to shove the band all the way down so the bottom of the band is touching the raised ridge? I usually install mine so there's a gap between the band and the ridge, and an equal gap on top. I figure I'll get less air balls that way.

You are doing them correct. The only trouble ypu can get into is installing new flipper bats. Always not touching the playfield, but, low as you can. I have seen massive damage when they are too low. I saw a MM recently,flipper weared the playfield bare. Amazing he never caught it. He has got to change the playfield,what a nightmare.

#5823 5 years ago

Help - drop target isn’t resetting on its on. I can reset it with the coil but once it goes down during game play it doesn’t come back up. I found the switch underneath and it was extremely loose. I screwed it back in but still doesn’t recognize when it’s down. ...........

#5824 5 years ago
Quoted from Beez:

I found the switch underneath and it was extremely loose. I screwed it back in but still doesn’t recognize when it’s down.

Make sure it is on right and working. Look at it. A tab on the drop target pushes the switch closed going down and releases it open going up.

Your switch could be mounted wrong, or need adjusting.

LTG : )

IMG_0436 (resized).JPGIMG_0436 (resized).JPGIMG_0437 (resized).JPGIMG_0437 (resized).JPG
#5825 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Make sure it is on right and working. Look at it. A tab on the drop target pushes the switch closed going down and releases it open going up.
Your switch could be mounted wrong, or need adjusting.
LTG : )

I checked the switch it was extremely loose - I tightened it back as you described with the tab however it still isn’t working ...

#5826 5 years ago
Quoted from Beez:

I checked the switch it was extremely loose - I tightened it back as you described with the tab however it still isn’t working ...

Try reflowing solder to the wires on switch and make sure there is continuity between the connectors. sometimes they loose contact with each other inside the housing. This normally happens on assembly line where pins are not properly seated in connector housing and barely touches and eventually is shaken loose, yours could have always been like that and eventually worked free.

#5827 5 years ago
Quoted from Beez:

I checked the switch it was extremely loose - I tightened it back as you described with the tab however it still isn’t working ...

Make sure the actuator arm is in the right place as shown in Lloyd’s picture. After doing some work on mine, my arm got bent up and out of place (above the black tab), making the thing not work. I just had to move it back again.

#5828 5 years ago
Quoted from Beez:

I tightened it back as you described with the tab however it still isn’t working ..

Did you tighten it too tight ?

Check the switch with a meter and see if it works when pressed.

LTG : )

#5829 5 years ago

I need some help again, my castle flipper often stays stuck up and it takes a few hits on the button, or for the ball to roll on it for it to lower again.
When it goes down it stays a bit up, I'm adding a picture to show it, it's subtle but noticeable.

What should I look for ? And any chance I won't need to remove the playfield to fix ?

IMG-3424 (resized).JPGIMG-3424 (resized).JPG
#5830 5 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

And any chance I won't need to remove the playfield to fix ?

No. Looks like it wants a new plunger assembly, coil sleeve, and coil stop.

LTG : )

#5831 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

No. Looks like it wants a new plunger assembly, coil sleeve, and coil stop.
LTG : )

But it's brand new, and I swear I didn't torture it more than hitting balls with it

#5832 5 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

But it's brand new, and I swear I didn't torture it more than hitting balls with it

Then the return spring may have broke. Or plunger assembly is binding. Or coil stop is loose. Or flipper bat needs a little up and down play so it isn't binding on the pawl below the playfield.

LTG : )

#5833 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Then the return spring may have broke. Or plunger assembly is binding. Or coil stop is loose. Or flipper bat needs a little up and down play so it isn't binding on the pawl below the playfield.
LTG : )

Is there some things I can check prior to removing the playfield ? It's annoying but still playable, so if I can diagnose without removing it then I can wait for the spare part(s) to arrive and do the job in a day.

#5834 5 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

Is there some things I can check prior to removing the playfield ? It's annoying but still playable, so if I can diagnose without removing it then I can wait for the spare part(s) to arrive and do the job in a day.

Long shot, but check to see if the orange flipper rubber isn’t rubbing against the castle wall. Look for orange dust in the area. Happened to me, had to dremal off a small portion of wall where it was rubbing. Otherwise there’s probably a mechanical problem as Lloyd pointed out.

#5835 5 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

so if I can diagnose without removing it then I can wait for the spare part(s) to arrive and do the job in a day.

I don't think you'll really need parts. If you would. Exchange the parts with the flippers near the front of the game. Then if you need to order anything new, installation wouldn't involve removing the castle playfield again.

LTG : )

#5836 5 years ago

I noticed today that in my WOZ there is some wear on the PF before the target that leads to the hole that launches the ball to the castle. Have you had similar problems and did you manage to find good ways to cover the wear? I guess otherwise I just put some mylar there. Thanks for any tips!

IMG_4140 (resized).JPGIMG_4140 (resized).JPG
#5837 5 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Thanks for any tips!

Mylar.

LTG : )

#5838 5 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I noticed today that in my WOZ there is some wear on the PF before the target that leads to the hole that launches the ball to the castle. Have you had similar problems and did you manage to find good ways to cover the wear? I guess otherwise I just put some mylar there. Thanks for any tips!

Cover with mylar as soon as possible.

You might have the flipper power set a bit high for this to have happened.

See if cliffy has a protector for this area to help cover it up.

Maybe send him a picture of the wear.

#5839 5 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I noticed today that in my WOZ there is some wear on the PF before the target that leads to the hole that launches the ball to the castle. Have you had similar problems and did you manage to find good ways to cover the wear? I guess otherwise I just put some mylar there. Thanks for any tips!

Jjp makes a decal to overlap that area.

#5840 5 years ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

Long shot, but check to see if the orange flipper rubber isn’t rubbing against the castle wall. Look for orange dust in the area. Happened to me, had to dremal off a small portion of wall where it was rubbing. Otherwise there’s probably a mechanical problem as Lloyd pointed out.

I totally see how this could happen. There's less than an inch between the rubber and the castle wall on mine, It doesn't seem to touch but it's so close that I wonder if when a ball hits the rubber it doesn't move the flipper a bit, it's really really tight.

#5841 5 years ago

What settings are you guys using? I was at 3 ball on the home setting for the last two years. Last night I tried the extra easy for a change.

It actually made the game more fun as I could get closer to the mini wizard mode. I may try 5 balls as well.

#5842 5 years ago

I actually didn't believe it was true, but I hit enough loops around the house and these two little feet popped out. I actually laughed out loud and my ball drained. It sounds corny, but this game is delightful. So much fun.

#5843 5 years ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

Jjp makes a decal to overlap that area.

I do not see it in their shop? Is it through support services? A decal would definetely be better than just regular mylar.

#5844 5 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I do not see it in their shop? Is it through support services? A decal would definetely be better than just regular mylar.

Here is a pic of the decal. It's been 3 yrs but in looking back, it was a guy named Roger Harris @jjp who made this decal. Don't know if he still there but sure they have more. I guess ask Frank @ Jjp.

IMG_1614 (resized).JPGIMG_1614 (resized).JPG
#5845 5 years ago
Quoted from Crile1:

I actually didn't believe it was true, but I hit enough loops around the house and these two little feet popped out. I actually laughed out loud and my ball drained. It sounds corny, but this game is delightful. So much fun.

I had no idea there were feet in that house, until I took a closer look and realized there was a door on the house. Then I tried a ton of times to get the feet but couldn't until I started looking online and saw a tutorial to calibrate the house rotation so the feet are not blocked.

I see feet now, and it's the coolest little detail to this already awesome game.

#5846 5 years ago

Have you guys had good support from JJP with issues? I keep hearing they are the best in the industry, but I'm yet to see that. I called about 2 weeks ago, about 3 times, and always went to VM. I left a message and have heard nothing? Maybe there is a secret I am missing?

#5847 5 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Have you guys had good support from JJP with issues? I keep hearing they are the best in the industry, but I'm yet to see that. I called about 2 weeks ago, about 3 times, and always went to VM. I left a message and have heard nothing? Maybe there is a secret I am missing?

Keep calling, they can be busy.
Mornings have been good for me, call sales and get transferred a couple times also.
Create a suppport ticket it you want.

With a little persistence I always get through, would never wait 2 weeks, I would just hammer them on the phone.

#5848 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Keep calling, they can be busy.
Mornings have been good for me, call sales and get transferred a couple times also.
Create a suppport ticket it you want.
With a little persistence I always get through, would never wait 2 weeks, I would just hammer them on the phone.

Agreed. I've found JJP customer service to be second to none.

#5849 5 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Have you guys had good support from JJP with issues? I keep hearing they are the best in the industry, but I'm yet to see that. I called about 2 weeks ago, about 3 times, and always went to VM. I left a message and have heard nothing? Maybe there is a secret I am missing?

I'm very impressed with JJP support, they are fast, responsive, efficient, really awesome job there. I usually start by opening a ticket on their support page, and eventually call directly using the directory on their voice mail.

I know they did a whole inventory in the last 10 days and the support team was involved in it, so it might be why you haven't heard back.

#5850 5 years ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

Here is a pic of the decal. It's been 3 yrs but in looking back, it was a guy named Roger Harris @jjp who made this decal. Don't know if he still there but sure they have more. I guess ask Frank @ Jjp.

Submitted a question to JJP support about the decal. I see however that even that decal would not completely cover the damaged area in my pin.

Anyone with a hires picture of that area, please let me know? I am thinking about creating a sticker myself and covering it with mylar then. I guess I would need to cut out the insert area from the sticker, so that the insert could shine through.

I guess changing the playfield would be nearly an impossible task for one that has never done such work and that WOZ playfield exchange would be one of the most difficult ones?

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