You are correct sir!

And since there is no off switch or low power detent for the motor, when activated, it just jams and stalls when open by design.

This leads to the right motor burning out 3 or 4 times faster than the left, as well as taking the bulk of the abuse from ball hits.

Fortunately they are inexpensive from JJP and fairly easy to replace.

Get a couple spares from the JJP store online.

Just joined the club! The thing was a beast to get upstairs and actually at one point fell on my hand. (At 9pm after the swelling started to go down I was finally able to play.)

I had a couple of questions for those that own a Ruby Red. As you can see in the photo below, mine is missing the numbered plaque on the apron. Is this normal?

Also - don't some RRs come with a ruby red shooter rod housing? Or is that a mod?

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RR do not have red housing that is after market and the number is taped on your box with invoice slip

Ah thanks. Almost accidentally threw that away with the trash!

Had a couple more questions for anyone.

During one ball (in the middle of Emerald City Multiball shortly after updating to 6.61 if that makes any difference), my monitor suddenly went out and all I had was a black screen at that point. I feared a warranty claim was imminent, but I just restarted my machine and all was well with the display. Does anyone else ever experience a glitch like this? I would hate to have this happen again if I have a good game going.

Also - maybe I'm not really understanding Rescue Multiball, but I hit the castle doors three times, they open, I knock the ball inside... and nothing really spectacular happens. My ball just ejects and gameplay resumes as normal. Is there something not registering that my ball made it into the castle? (Even though it ejects?)

EDIT: I think I answered my own question with the second one. I'm assuming the flying monkey has to capture a ball first. Although I'm not sure if I can do it backwards - enter the castle then get the ball captured to start Rescue Multiball.

You have to capture the ball with the monkey first, then spell “RESCUE”, then get the ball behind the doors. But be careful: if you spell rescue and hit the castle loop before getting the ball behind the doors it will lock a virtual ball and you’ll have to spell “RESCUE” again.

Which is a strategic choice one can choose to make — start Rescue MB with only 2 balls or keep locking balls and start Rescue MB later with more balls. You can go up to 5.

I'd check the connections on the monitor cable at both ends (the PC and the monitor), have never had anything like that happen in the three years or so I've had mine.

I try to lock as many as possible. Every locked ball raises the base jackpot level.
Occasionally ill try to stack with EC multiball too.

Ok friends. Looking for a place to start.

Walked into game room to find my game that was previously fine (about 30 mins before. Left room) looked like some light boards locked on in Skittles colors. No pattern just rainbow. And making a faint but rapid ticking sound on the speakers.

Turned it off. Waited, turned back on and now there is a ticking sound coming from the speakers. Loud at first then quiet once it boots. And the biggest thing is all the lights are out.

Turned all light boards off. What's the next steps in diagnosing?

Game seems to play ok just no lights. Figured

See if you have power at the LED boards. If not check the power source next.

LTG : )

Darn throne room LED. Have had the game a year and a half and just ordered my third one from JJP.

Any reason this particular LED strip keeps going out and/or any best practices to keep it working? Thanks!

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I have found that my light board problems are directly mostly related to me - working on The game with power on - basically not treating it like a game with static sensitive issues but not always sometimes the game just wants to be a first gen. I would follow the mist and shine recommendation and never having the glass off and power on

His issue isn't a light board. It's a LED strip separate from the playfield LEDs.

LTG : )

I think a see a issue if not THE issue. Looks like a cap broke loose on board 5. What's the procedure to unhook that one so I can see if the rest come on?

Any other issues possible with this kind of breakage?

Also best way to check power on boards. Never like guessing when the power is on... Are there test points or should I pull the power molex and test there on a few boards?

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Picking up a WOZ next week! Needless to say I’m very excited been wanting one for like a year and a half. Giving up my amazing T2 for it and I know I won’t regret it

Congrats on the new game!

I have never played T2, so I can’t comment on that aspect. But WOZ is a truly special game and I think you will love it. I have a very small collection, but never tire of this game. Just my opinion, but I think it’s one of the best.

Welcome to the club

Still having issues with having no pf lights at all. Moved the issue to a new thread so hopefully someone can benefit when I solve it.

Very open to suggestions. Here is the list of what Ive checked and what I've noticed.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/need-help-woz-all-lights-out

Right front side of the I/O board. With power off, reseat USB cable for the lights.

LTG : )

I did not see a USB cable. But i did reseat the red labeled data cable. As you said, right front side near the Crystal ball data header. Still no luck. I'll double check I had the right one.

Found 2 mini USB. Reseated those and the red data cable. Nothing yet

I don’t even have my WOZ yet and I’m already ordering mods haha. Very excite!

Made a little progress. Pulled woz6 and that seemed to get things moving. Some lights miss addressed. Detailed it in my help thread. Any suggestions on testing woz6 to see if it needs simple repair or needs replaced?

Did you bypass it with the cables and turn it off in the settings?

Yes. Took the green data cable from 6 and out it in 29. Also took out woz5. That green data is now on 28. Both off in settings.

If you have the ins and outs correct and in the right sequence everything should act normal as far as the other lights, when the missing boards are disabled.

Otherwise you get weird light effects.

You would think so. It's odd. It's basically treating #29 as if it were #1. Not a lot I can mess up. It's the first light in the series from the I/o now since I took woz6 out.

Could be one more silly issue. Not the end of the world. Really issue is deciding if woz6 is a bust or I can fix it.

Trying to narrow down any other issues so I can solve it.

Maybe something is screwly with #1 connection. But again, if you take woz6 out and disable it #29 should be the next one. I'll keep looking.

You likely need to turn off 176, 178, and 179 in the settings while you have W6 disconnected/bypassed since those lights are tapped off of W6. That could be why it is treating 29 as if it were 1.
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I assume you meant W5 instead of 5? If it is W5 you bypassed then you likely need to turn off 159 and 160 along with W5 in the settings.

Thanks. I thought that too but couldn't find where to turn those off. Those satellite boards aren't listed in the settings. Just the main ones. I'll look again but could someone chime in if I'm wrong where to turn it off.

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Looked again. Is there another menu? Only lists main boards and gi ones.

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Interesting. It does appear that the boards that are tapped off as dead-ends are meant to be included with the parent boards when turning off the parent boards such as W6 in the settings. Assuming you did the bypass with the wiring harnesses correctly, I wonder if there is a software bug when bypassing the boards that have the dead-end boards tapping off.

Yeah. I figured either a bug or something else is causing an issue. Not really a big deal. I'm sure once I get the other two boards up and running it'll sort itself out.

Speaking of which anyone converting over to 2.0 looking to sell off some 7.5v boards?

I was thinking about it and I may convert to 2.0 and find someone who wants a spare set. Or buy them off someone.

For now I'm happy to have my game working minus a few boards.

On a side note I think this is the ...well one of the... most common rubbers to break on WOZ. Only one I've had to replace just about every year. Video should make those down the line easier to fix. Well done jjp!! Great tutorial!

Just picked up my ECLE WOZ! One of the last production models. Has 7.5 boards and only 24 plays!!

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Well I got my WOZ in my house, fire up... and... bunch of lights out . I am new to JJP, so not sure really where to start... sadly I have a feeling its a lamp board or boards. This does have the 7.5v, and with such low plays kinda hard to believe it would be a board.

LED's 1-37 are not working

Any chance there is a fuse I can check or connections? Love any help thanks so much!
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Did you play test it before bringing it home? If all was fine it might be a loose cable. If not, need to start bypassing boards as described in other thereads and earlier here. Good luck!

Sadly I did not get to, the seller assured me it was 100% working. At this point not sure the evidence is supporting that.

To “bypass” a board do I just go into the menu and start turning them off?

I saw your service email and sent this.

Please check out page C-54 in the manual ( you can download it at jerseyjackpinball.com ) that page shows the data harness path. From W6 to #29, to #1, to #2, to #3, etc. etc.

Please go into Tests - LEDs - All LEDs, this turns any working all white. Lift playfield and lean on backbox. You can see the working ones kind of glow.

They are wired in series, a straight line. Find the last working one, the one after it that is out is the bad one. With the power on, you can by pass the data harnesses on the LED boards, bypass the bad one, and turn off in settings. ( be sure and turn it back on when you replace it ) this will help you identify a bad one.

As an example, say #15 was out. You can run the data harness from red on W2, to green on #16 instead of #15. If the rest light up, you know #15 is the bad one.

With the power on you can move data harnesses. They go red to green from board to board. Don't mess with the power connectors with the power on.

Looking at your picture, it looks like #25 ( the T in T O T O ) is on, then it goes to #26, W4, and #27, etc. up to the end, the R A I N B O W lights. Look at this path on page C-54 in the manual to figure the bad board. See if #26 is on, if so check W4, if on check #27, etc.

I hope this helps you,

Let me know if you need more help. To order a board, please call 732-364-9900 ext. 1 , by your game's serial number they can see what boards are in your game and get you the correct replacement.

Thank you,
LTG : )

No. Only turn off a board that you have bypassed with the data harness.

LTG : )

Thanks LTG it’s crazy the seller claims everything was 100% working yesterday... what if anything could have wiggled loose in transporting? Or can rough vibration toast a board?

You bought it and didn’t test it before paying and taking it home?!!

First check and re-seat the cables (power and data)to the boards that are out. Possible something got looses in transit.

If that doesn't do the trick, bypass the first board in the series that is out and see if that does it.

If it's just one board that is out, call it a fluke, and grab a new one (will play fine with the bad one bypassed).

New 7.5v boards have a daughter board with a buffer that helps prevent issues in the chain.

Imho, original unbuffered boards can be sensitive to noisey AC and/or static electricity build up. I've had 3 boards go over roughly 4 years, but once I got some of those buffered boards in it seems like issues had diminished.

If you blew more than 1 board, I'd say the 100% working claim of the previous owner might be dubious.

That said, an ecle with low plays like that is an awesome find. Sucks that you are having to deal with this but you'll get past it quick and on to enjoyment sooner than later.

Just an FYI, anyone within driving distance of KY want to trade their WOZ for LOTR, let me know.

Thanks for the help arcadenerd925 LTG out of curiosity I pulled up the sellers listing... sure enough even in the photos the lights are out. Super frustrating.

So that rules out transporting causing this. it’s gotta be a bad board and he just didn’t disclose it, I’m going to give him the benefit of the doubt, and believe he didn’t notice... but really

If the Lion rollover (27) is working then between that and W3 may be your problem.

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Remember not to connect / disconnect power to the boards when the game is on.

I would try, with the game off, make sure the connectors are securely fastened on the Lion rollover board 27 and the W3 board.
If that does not fix the problem then bypass the W3 board and remove that board in the settings to see if the rainbow board (W10) is working.

My best guess is you have a bad W3 board.

OK, found the culprit, the data connector going from 56 to 26, on the green end, the ground wire had backed itself out. shoved it back in and hot glued it until i can order a replacement. Speaking of replacement where do i order one? I Could not find it on the part page.

Also, my WOZ head led seems to be out... this common, and should i order another from JJP? or can i use a 12 one I have from comet? Thanks

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