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(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only


By TigerLaw

6 years ago



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  • 11,382 posts
  • 581 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 hours ago by jorant
  • Topic is favorited by 271 Pinsiders

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There are 11382 posts in this topic. You are on page 113 of 228.
#5601 2 years ago
Quoted from chalkup8:

Did you get it sorted monte ?
With some help from JJP I just fitted mine.
Lift off the lid from the big silver box in the cabinet. Look for the smallest board in there.It has a PINK connector at the top left of that board.Unplug the male connector and run it through your ground loop isolator and back to the pink connector.Couple of cable ties to neaten it all up and your done.
Works like a charm.No more annoying buzzing sound.

I called jersey jack and did it just like that. Thanks.

#5602 2 years ago

Does anyone have a new spare rainbow light board they want to sell...version 1.5 ,,,,,I believe...please send me a PM

#5603 2 years ago

If you haven’t heard, the creator of the amazing witch mod is at it again. List forming and wallets emptying...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-witch-red-smoke-mod/page/25#post-4425189

12
#5604 2 years ago

I installed the 2.0 kit in my ECLE this weekend. This is the second 100% lamp replacement this machine has had, from 5V to 7.5V and now to 2.0. I had constant lamp issues with both sets. Extremely excited to put that behind me.

*It took two experienced (PF swap level) people approx 12 hours to do. A third helped assemble lamp brackets.
*The back half of the (very good) instructions pointed to manual pages with wiring I only could pull up on my phone, I recommend printing those pages first.
*You have to drill pilot holes for the GI boards. Terrifying at first, but fine.
*The new wiring harnesses for GI and single LED boards are so tight I had to re-drill and reposition some lamps. Again, get those manual pages first to see how the lamps should ideally be positioned. The instructions implied you can wing it. Do not.
*Ethernet cabling is awesome.
*The mini PFs are still the worst thing ever to remove.
*It turned on and everything worked! When has that happened to anyone after a huge project, ever?

93076406-696F-4819-A6C8-A40C8C07040D (resized).jpeg

#5605 2 years ago

Awesome! I almost want to try this just because but haven’t had anything other than the odd GI board failure so can’t justify the spend.

#5606 2 years ago
Quoted from monte_:

I called jersey jack and did it just like that. Thanks.

My pleasure.JJP are very helpful all round.

#5607 2 years ago
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:

I installed the 2.0 kit in my ECLE this weekend. This is the second 100% lamp replacement this machine has had, from 5V to 7.5V and now to 2.0. I had constant lamp issues with both sets. Extremely excited to put that behind me.
*It took two experienced (PF swap level) people approx 12 hours to do. A third helped assemble lamp brackets.
*The back half of the (very good) instructions pointed to manual pages with wiring I only could pull up on my phone, I recommend printing those pages first.
*You have to drill pilot holes for the GI boards. Terrifying at first, but fine.
*The new wiring harnesses for GI and single LED boards are so tight I had to re-drill and reposition some lamps. Again, get those manual pages first to see how the lamps should ideally be positioned. The instructions implied you can wing it. Do not.
*Ethernet cabling is awesome.
*The mini PFs are still the worst thing ever to remove.
*It turned on and everything worked! When has that happened to anyone after a huge project, ever?

I don’t see the GI working in that pic.

#5608 2 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

I don’t see the GI working in that pic.

Hard to see. You can see it a little in Dorty's face by the state fair balloon, and the clock on the right return lane.

LTG : )

#5609 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Hard to see. You can see it a little in Dorty's face by the state fair balloon, and the clock on the right return lane.
LTG : )

Ah yes...don’t see them in the slings though. Both slings are chipped on the lower corners, replace those and protect them!

#5610 2 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Ah yes...don’t see them in the slings though. Both slings are chipped on the lower corners, replace those and protect them!

GI is working. Game is in a heavy play, dedicated pinball location and has fender washers but still gets chipped slings. With the washers on, why keep replacing the expensive sling plastics? The plight of the operator. When it comes home someday, perhaps.

#5611 2 years ago

Looks like it’s going to be an exciting day !!! Can’t wait to get her inside and set her up, can’t play yet though because I’m waiting on my full cliffy protection set But nice to have it in the house.

66610729-0735-4782-BC31-0BDEDE454223 (resized).jpeg

#5612 2 years ago

I am waiting on an order,he said 10 weeks behind on Cliffys. Can you wait that long?

#5613 2 years ago

Just Mylar the munchkin playfield edge and play on while you wait for the Cliffys

#5614 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Just Mylar the munchkin playfield edge and play on while you wait for the Cliffys

Yep, I know a owner with an ECLE that has to have thousands if not 10s of thousands of plays on it with only mylar to protect that edge and it is fine, just use more than one layer.

#5615 2 years ago

Some thick double sided tape will work, just don’t peel of the other side. Might as well order your new witch and winkie target while your at it

#5616 2 years ago

Yeah, I hear he’s a little behind with the protectors. Good for him and his business though!

Thinking I’ll grab either a foam strip or rubber strip with adhesive on the back to add to that area temporarily from Lowe’s - Should work good right?

#5617 2 years ago
Quoted from Beez:

Yeah, I hear he’s a little behind with the protectors. Good for him and his business though!
Thinking I’ll grab either a foam strip or rubber strip with adhesive on the back to add to that area temporarily from Lowe’s - Should work good right?

Some foam weather stripping will be a safe temporary protector so you can play your game while you wait for a Cliffy. The top edge is the most important area that needs protection because that area causes the top clearcoat and paint to start cracking off when the edge is hit by the ball.

#5618 2 years ago

Anybody know where the heck this goes? I heard it fall when we pulled the playfield up for the first time ...

2C8FCD35-DA6C-4E14-98E7-00613FD316D7 (resized).jpeg
#5619 2 years ago
Quoted from Beez:

Anybody know where the heck this goes? I heard it fall when we pulled the playfield up for the first time ...

Holds one of your two coin chutes in position.

LTG : )

#5620 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Holds one of your two coin chutes in position.
LTG : )

Well, that’s exactly where it goes! Thx! The bad news is now I need to find the other 3 ... lol. #missing

#5621 2 years ago

Hi all. I have both a pat on the back and a request for advice.

First, the pat on the back goes to . . . ME . . . and all of YOU . . . who offered advice prior to and during my castle playfield removal. As some may remember, I tried this last weekend, got stuck removing some connectors, ran out of time, and raised my blood pressure too much. I decided, wisely, to put it aside and wait a week before trying again. This time, I was smarter and more calm. I did it!!! I broke it into two parts: removal and then adjustment and reassembly. Taking a break in the middle also helped me stay calm. So, thanks everyone! I feel more confident and am glad that I finally did it.

Now, for the request for advice. While putting my main playfield back in, it wouldn't quite go, so I did like all good repair techs do and tried to shove it a little harder. It still wouldn't go, and I finally looked under again and saw a cable hanging down that was getting caught. Turns out the cable was the power (I believe) cable to GI board 13, and probably due to my shoving, the little tab holding it in place snapped off. I can plug it back in, but it is a bit loose. Everything is working, and the lights are all on, so I am wondering whether I just leave it alone, and if vibrates loose at some point, I just plug it back in. Or, do I do something about it. I can probably add a hot glue bead to keep it in, but that might be hard to remove if I ever need to replace it. Or, I could just order a new one. I think they are only $26 or so. I'm tempted to just leave it alone until it becomes a problem. However, I thought I would ask if there are any other hacks to get that to stick in better.

Thanks!

#5622 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Hi all. I have both a pat on the back and a request for advice.
First, the pat on the back goes to . . . ME . . . and all of YOU . . . who offered advice prior to and during my castle playfield removal. As some may remember, I tried this last weekend, got stuck removing some connectors, ran out of time, and raised my blood pressure too much. I decided, wisely, to put it aside and wait a week before trying again. This time, I was smarter and more calm. I did it!!! I broke it into two parts: removal and then adjustment and reassembly. Taking a break in the middle also helped me stay calm. So, thanks everyone! I feel more confident and am glad that I finally did it.
Now, for the request for advice. While putting my main playfield back in, it wouldn't quite go, so I did like all good repair techs do and tried to shove it a little harder. It still wouldn't go, and I finally looked under again and saw a cable hanging down that was getting caught. Turns out the cable was the power (I believe) cable to GI board 13, and probably due to my shoving, the little tab holding it in place snapped off. I can plug it back in, but it is a bit loose. Everything is working, and the lights are all on, so I am wondering whether I just leave it alone, and if vibrates loose at some point, I just plug it back in. Or, do I do something about it. I can probably add a hot glue bead to keep it in, but that might be hard to remove if I ever need to replace it. Or, I could just order a new one. I think they are only $26 or so. I'm tempted to just leave it alone until it becomes a problem. However, I thought I would ask if there are any other hacks to get that to stick in better.
Thanks!

A little hot glue on one edge of the connectier will hold it just fine. I do it all the time on electronics that I ship. It comes off easy with a small screwdriver.

Order a new one for a spare if it gets annoying later on.

#5623 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

A little hot glue on one edge of the connectier will hold it just fine. I do it all the time on electronics that I ship. It comes off easy with a small screwdriver.
Order a new one for a spare if it gets annoying later on.

Will do. Thanks!

#5624 2 years ago

I have some problem with the castle right door. It gave in a bit in such manner that the ball got into the castle, but however not into the hole. There was a ball search and the ball dropped into the hole and machine started ejecting the ball. However now only the left castle door was open, so the eject hole was banging the ball from the hole each time to the shut right door.

I am sure this is some common problem for which a solution has been detailed in this thread. However, any pointers to the solution or information in a reply would be most appreciated. If the fix will require the removal of the mini-playfield, I would be grateful from any instructions relating to that as well.

Thanks!

#5625 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

A little hot glue on one edge of the connectier will hold it just fine. I do it all the time on electronics that I ship. It comes off easy with a small screwdriver.
Order a new one for a spare if it gets annoying later on.

Hot glue worked perfectly. Thanks again.

#5626 2 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

However, any pointers to the solution

Latch below the castle playfield bent ? Door motor bad ?

LTG : )

#5627 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Latch below the castle playfield bent ? Door motor bad ?
LTG : )

I will check. If there are instructions for removing the castle playfield, it would be good to have - or maybe they are in the manual?

#5628 2 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

or maybe they are in the manual?

Rear of the manual. You can download the latest from jerseyjackpinball.com

LTG : )

#5629 2 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I have some problem with the castle right door. It gave in a bit in such manner that the ball got into the castle, but however not into the hole.

I'm having the same issue. I think someone else here too ( Nokoro just went through taking it off).

Could also be the set screw for the door. Hoping to find time to fix it... This Summer..ha!

First step take it off and look around. Any luck its something loose and not broken.

#5630 2 years ago

Looks like it is a loose set-screw regarding my right door. How have you managed to get the set-screw to stick? I remember the earlier owner telling me that he had to fix the set-screw and I noticed the castle playfield flipper was set to be very weak. I put more power to it and in no time the door broke then.
Is there something specific about the orientation of the set-screw - how to ensure that its in correct place once tightened?

Set-Screw (resized).JPG

#5631 2 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Looks like it is a loose set-screw regarding my right door. How have you managed to get the set-screw to stick? I remember the earlier owner telling me that he had to fix the set-screw and I noticed the castle playfield flipper was set to be very weak. I put more power to it and in no time the door broke then.
Is there something specific about the orientation of the set-screw - how to ensure that its in correct place once tightened?

The shaft of the motor is flattened, The screw engages the flattened area, there is no real orientation just tighten it.

The castle play field must be removed from the game in order to work on this. The instructions are in the manual. Follow the instructions exactly. It's not difficult nor is it really time consuming. If you have done it before it's about a 25-minute fix. It will take you a little longer for your first time.

By all means put blue Loctite on the screw threads when putting them back in.

If you're smart remove all of the screws from both doors and put blue Loctite on everything.

This is a good exercise because later on when you need to replace one of the electric motors you will know exactly what to do.

On most games problems only occur on the right door it takes the most abuse.

#5632 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The shaft of the motor is flattened, The screw engages the flattened area, there is no real orientation just tighten it.
The castle play field must be removed from the game in order to work on this. The instructions are in the manual. Follow the instructions exactly. It's not difficult nor is it really time consuming. If you have done it before it's about a 25-minute fix. It will take you a little longer for your first time.
By all means put blue Loctite on the screw threads when putting them back in.
If you're smart remove all of the screws from both doors and put blue Loctite on everything.
This is a good exercise because later on when you need to replace one of the electric motors you will know exactly what to do.
On most games problems only occur on the right door it takes the most abuse.

Thanks! I have removed the playfield, so now its time to put Loctite on the screws then!

#5633 2 years ago
Quoted from boomgopinball:

I'm having the same issue. I think someone else here too ( Nokoro just went through taking it off).
Could also be the set screw for the door. Hoping to find time to fix it... This Summer..ha!
First step take it off and look around. Any luck its something loose and not broken.

I will attest that I'm not very good at these things, and I was very nervous about removing the castle playfield. In the end, it wasn't as bad as it seemed. The instructions are excellent, and I felt great for getting it accomplished. Every pin fix for me adds to my confidence level.

#5634 2 years ago

Need to ask further guidance. It seems that loctite had been placed into the set-screw hole, so I will have to familiarize myself with how to clean the old loctite.

However, now when I have put the doors in their place, it seems that the latch does not open sufficently anymore. How can I adjust it to open a bit more? I think 1 mm should do it nicely.

Thank you for any help!

#5635 2 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Need to ask further guidance. It seems that loctite had been placed into the set-screw hole, so I will have to familiarize myself with how to clean the old loctite.
However, now when I have put the doors in their place, it seems that the latch does not open sufficently anymore. How can I adjust it to open a bit more? I think 1 mm should do it nicely.
Thank you for any help!

Don't clean off the old loctite. Just put new on top of it.

#5636 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

More
Don't clean off the old loctite. Just put new on top of it.

Thanks for the tip.

I noticed that someone had installed the left door a bit higher than the right door. This maybe was done to ensure the clearance with the latch. I pressed both doors down and now there is the tiny clearance issue with the left door and the latch. There must be some way to adjust the latch...

#5637 2 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Thanks for the tip.
I noticed that someone had installed the left door a bit higher than the right door. This maybe was done to ensure the clearance with the latch. I pressed both doors down and now there is the tiny clearance issue with the left door and the latch. There must be some way to adjust the latch...

Adjust the doorposts so that the stops barely clear the latch (1/64") but don't scrape on the wood.

The latch does have an adjustment but leave it alone for now.

Most of the games have one of the doors slightly higher than the other.

#5638 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Adjust the doorposts so that the stops barely clear the latch (1/64") but don't scrape on the wood.
The latch does have an adjustment but leave it alone for now.
Most of the games have one of the doors slightly higher than the other.

Thanks - I noticed that there was a small gap between the motor and the pole for the left door and I put it tightly together, but I will now adjust it so that the gap is there again. Then it will clear the latch.

#5639 2 years ago

Anyone have this happen or any advice?

Game plays perfect since new Feb 2017. Just recently, ball started kicking out of the Crystal Ball VUK so hard that it comes off the rails into the middle of the playfield. I figured I can go into settings and reduce the power. If that is the recommendation, any reason why? Do these just randomly ramp up in power? Thanks.

#5640 2 years ago
Quoted from hd60609:

I figured I can go into settings and reduce the power. If that is the recommendation,

That is what I'd do.

Maybe your house current is stronger than it used to be ?

LTG : )

#5641 2 years ago
Quoted from hd60609:

Anyone have this happen or any advice?
Game plays perfect since new Feb 2017. Just recently, ball started kicking out of the Crystal Ball VUK so hard that it comes off the rails into the middle of the playfield. I figured I can go into settings and reduce the power. If that is the recommendation, any reason why? Do these just randomly ramp up in power? Thanks.

Quoted from LTG:

That is what I'd do.
Maybe your house current is stronger than it used to be ?
LTG : )

Every so often, I have to tweak the coil settings. It depends upon the time of year and whether the whole neighborhood is running AC or not. WOZ seems to be sensitive to current fluctuations, more so than some of my other pins. Or, at least, it is more noticeable with WOZ.

#5642 2 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Every so often, I have to tweak the coil settings. It depends upon the time of year and whether the whole neighborhood is running AC or not. WOZ seems to be sensitive to current fluctuations, more so than some of my other pins. Or, at least, it is more noticeable with WOZ.

Thanks for the advice. I will adjust...

Coincidence that the Crystal Ball display acts up intermittently? There is an image most times. No image at times, but I have always assumed that was part of the game.

Occasionally, the image changes to complete pixelation, but then back to clear images. First noticed the pixelation of the image after the machine was on for a while during a party.

I went to make sure all connections were tight and re-seated the SD card (per previous posters/advice). Further thoughts?

#5643 2 years ago
Quoted from hd60609:

Occasionally, the image changes to complete pixelation, but then back to clear images. First noticed the pixelation of the image after the machine was on for a while during a party.
I went to make sure all connections were tight and re-seated the SD card (per previous posters/advice). Further thoughts?

Mine does that as well, but it is infrequent enough that I don’t worry about it. I think it is a common issue. If it happens to you frequently, you may want to try some more things. I just put up with the occasional glitch.

#5644 2 years ago

Had the most amazing game last night ... I love this PIN! All my friends and family get excited to play it ... JJP Rocks!

B7ABFEFF-1FBA-45C2-A408-62A04A35633C (resized).jpeg
#5645 2 years ago
Quoted from Beez:

Had the most amazing game last night ... I love this PIN! All my friends and family get excited to play it ... JJP Rocks!

You might want to get one if the add on lighting kits. It makes a huge difference.

#5646 2 years ago
Quoted from hd60609:

Anyone have this happen or any advice?
Game plays perfect since new Feb 2017. Just recently, ball started kicking out of the Crystal Ball VUK so hard that it comes off the rails into the middle of the playfield. I figured I can go into settings and reduce the power. If that is the recommendation, any reason why? Do these just randomly ramp up in power? Thanks.

Check to see if every nut, bolt and screw is tight around it.

Also check the throne room deflector while you are at it.

Adjust power settings as needed.

#5647 2 years ago

I had my first try to put the castle mini playfield back. Something went wrong with the wiring I think even though the previous owner had numbered the connectors. I have to remove the mini playfield and try this again. I got some error messages, also the castle doors where banging open and shut and the wizard was rising and going down and also turning in its slot...

Errors (resized).JPG
#5648 2 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I had my first try to put the castle mini playfield back. Something went wrong with the wiring I think even though the previous owner had numbered the connectors. I have to remove the mini playfield and try this again. I got some error messages, also the castle doors where banging open and shut and the wizard was rising and going down and also turning in its slot...

The Sharpe marked connectors are from JJP assemblers. Renew the markings if they rub off.

Optic cable might be wrong.
A cable still disconnected.

It's hard to get it wrong as the connectors only match to themselves.

Usually it's a broken unrelated wire (one that was marginal and broke just because you looked at it) or you left one still disconnected.

Fortunately it doesn't hurt it really at all.

It just confuses the he'll out of the computer.

Go through the disassembly instructions in the manual slowly and methodically, you will find the mistake.

Check the monkey motor wire. It falls off easy and is near the work area.

#5649 2 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Something went wrong with the wiring

Check page D-9 in the latest manual. You have some connectors not plugged in, plugged into wrong spots, or plugged into a wrong connector in that area.

LTG : )

#5650 2 years ago

I got a RR 3 years NIB. I finannallygot trouble. My F14 fuse blew,I replaced it, & now tests good!but none of my 12v lightd or all motors. F9 & f13 are piggybackes to f14. They all trst good but, don't work. Is a transistor out,& if so I Can't find a cause. Do they just go out? Lights are out beside suspected fuses. Thanks for any help.

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