$1100

I believe 800 for a “limited time”.

On light boards, anyone have any GI boards start no longer showing correct colors without impacting anything downstream? Would that be just a bad Led module? Going to replace the whole little board anyway, just curious.

I don't know what it is right now, but my understanding is the price was going to be $800 for a while as a "promotion" and then go up to $1100.00

It certainly couldn't hurt to call JJP back and verify this information. If you do, please post back so everyone will know what it is.

Granted it's not cheap, but it's a good investment. The 2.0 system is far more robust with better engineering and design. This system was first introduced on Hobbit and from my understanding the incidence of lamp board failure with this system is far lower than the 1.0 system.

That's why I'm not doing it. The cost of a Ruby Red WOZ the upgrade should be free. I will spend 80 bucks for cables first. There mistakes should not cost me or consumers $$. Just my thoughts.

As a RR owner that has had multiple issues with 7.5v system I wouldn't call it hype. Rather, I suggest this should be considered a YMMV situation.
Some lucky owners with 7.5V systems will never have any issues and for them I say the 2.0 isn't needed.
There are also some folks that like a continuous string of issues to be fixed. For those folks the 7.5v system may be a nonstop source of amusement.
But for people like me and the future downstream owners who will come to this issue completely oblivious to it, we stand to benefit a great deal by conversion to the 2.0 system.

Lastly if I was buying one today, I would insist on 2.0 or else make sure the price reflected a discount equal to the cost of the upgrade.

That's happened to me quite a bit. I've had to replace the GI boards.

My right witch target is always on. Is there any way to fix it without remove the whole witch set?

Maybe this will help -

Loosen the nuts circled in RED allowing you to move the switches closer to the plate. Reach around the lifted playfield and tap the strike plate while moving the swiches closer. When you have the sensitivity you want, just tighten the nuts back down.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/89824152@N07/sets/72157634995600921/

LTG : )

Be careful when you tighten the nuts.
It is pretty easy to break off the bolt from the bracket. Which will require a replacement of the entire bracket since the bolt is a non-removable part of the bracket.
Ask me how I know

Fixed!!!

20180525_205117 (resized).jpg

Excellent ! Glad you can enjoy your game now.

LTG : )

Thanks. Now to finish installing Pinstadiums.

I got this from jjp to reduce buzzing/humming noise on machine. Can anyone tell me Where I install this or a link to instructions on how to install it thanks

6A7F36AC-2F95-444E-B830-993B76BBB53D (resized).jpeg

There is an audio input cable into the metal box in your cabinet. You unplug that, plug it into the noise filter you just bought, and then plug that into the input in the box. I forget which cable it is, but if it is not obvious, the manual will probably say.

Basically I believe the idea is to put that electrically between the output from the PC and the input into the audio amplifier.

Unplug the speaker cable from the back of the computer.
Plug the speaker cable into the isolator.
Plug the other end of the isolator in the jacks on the computer that you unplugged the speaker cable from.

No tools needed its a 5 min install but well worth it.

My ECLEWOZ came with one factory installed.

I had to add one to my Hobbit.

I had to take mine out because it broke and I couldn’t get sound. JJP said they were causing trouble and stopped adding them to the games. But they still might work for some. I don’t really have a problem with buzz.

I imagine that if they were failing, they would suggest removing them.
But that would mean that it was an inferior quality GLI. Really the device should last a lifetime as its only a wire with a ferrite core.

I really don’t know much about them other than it was fine for a while, then I wasn’t getting sound, JJP told me to remove it, and I got sound again. I thought they told me they removed them from more recent games for performance issues, but I could be mistaken. Either way, something failed in mine.

How do you know if your 75th Ruby Red WOZ is a 2.0 or not?

It will be labeled on one of the big boards under the playfield.
It will also not have as many the small GI led boards all over the place.

The new manual shows the differences in it. Download it from JJP.

Look in the manual.

Page C-54 has the old system board layout. Page E-22 and E-24 has the 2.0. If your game has the B.A.G. board and HUN board and ethernet cables, you have the 2.0

Or if you LED boards have a power cable and a couple data harnesses with red and green dots on the connector, you have the older system.

LTG : )

2.0 only has 7 less.

LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd, thats good to know.
Ive only seen The 2.0 version in the new manual as my game is early 7.5v

Not only fixed but Pinstadium installed.

20180526_190116 (resized).jpg

20180526_190143 (resized).jpg

You need a new witch!

Send me one.

I like the before picture better, but then again I’m more a fan of theatre lighting where shadow is used to add to dramatic effect and guide the eye vs sporting event lighting.

I'm totally different. Pinstadium lighting has allowed me to see the pinball and put up some of my best scores in some pins. To each his own.

WOZ absolutely needs lighting.
I added spots and light strips.
Pinstadium would have been great 4 years ago.

Well done.

Just found my old email from JJP about this. JJP said they were in early games but got pulled because they were causing problems like mine when the noise would go out. JJP felt they were causing more problems then they were solving. That’s all I know.

Dear Helpful Pinsiders:

I’m trying to take my castle playfield off, and I’m stuck early in the process. I can’t for the life of me get the 12 pin connector to come apart. I’m even gripping both ends with those mats you use to open jars, but even then I can’t get enough force. I’m afraid of breaking it or ripping the wires out. (Don’t worry, I’m not pulling by the wires.) Is there a trick to this that I’m missing.

Yours truly,

Stuck In A Basement

It can be really tight.

Similar connectors on cars shrink with age and are difficult to budge.

Make sure you release the latch on the connector completely or bend it high with a screwdriver or cut it off if it's misshapen.

On some I have had to hold one side with channel locks and wiggle the other side until it breaks free.

Thanks! Got it. With a couple of wrenches.

I’m stepping away from my castle disassembly for a while. I ran out of time, and disconnecting that connector raised my blood pressure too much. I’ll have to meditate and come back to it next weekend when I have a more empty day.

Maybe some light heat? Hair dryer

I just noticed below the spinning house this broken white o ring was sticking out blocking the balls where they come down from oz skill shoot. I looked in book and dont know where it goes? Any help would be appreciated.

B17E8E36-2DAE-47D8-A7DA-12559DBE62F6 (resized).jpeg

377DB140-CAAA-49ED-B086-BA77C7EE91CF (resized).jpeg

I believe this o ring goes underneath the picture where it says number 32, but in the book it only shows black o rings. I think it is 2 inch rubber ring in book. How do i replace that. Do i have to remove everything? Does anybody else have white rubber ring there?

A80EC8C2-F438-4E77-A659-84BC7974AB19 (resized).jpeg

Around the posts and slingshot under the spinning house. Turn the power on that slingshot down a little.

PM me your email address and I'll email you the 10 minute fix for it.

LTG : )

All of the games I have seen come with a white rubber on that upper sling.

I guess they just wanted a little more action there due to the fact that white is a little tiny bit more bouncier than black.

But it's just a guess.

The rubber kits I bought from jjp have a white rubber in them specifically for that area.

Mine currently has a black one there because the black is more durable than the white the game seems to play the same.

I have usually put my pinball machines into three parts when carrying them downstairs - backbox, playfield and cabinet. However, when trying to disconnect the WOZ's playfield, I noticed that the violet wires have been screwed into the power in the back.

What would be the best way to remove them in order to be able to be able to detach the playfield from the cabinet? It seems that there are no big connectors that one could separate.

Please share your best practices, if you have had to separate the playfield from the cabinet. Thank you!

WOZ_wires (resized).JPG

Power to the LED boards. Put labels on each one, remove them. And get them back in the same spots. Phillips head screw driver to remove the screws holding them on.

LTG : )

And as always take tons of pictures!

Ordered mine, probably gonna be a while before it gets here.
If I had mine at home I might not worry about it, or like others said get it now for the cheaper price and install if needed. It was frustrating when one light board took the whole game out of commission, which happened probably once to twice a month. About half of the time in general, issues aren't reported via Payouts or through customers, which means until you discover the machine is acting funky, you loose money.

It might of been an internal ground fault like pinballinreno said but chances of me finding it, if that's the issue are slim.
They are pretty much doing these kits at cost or close to it, I don't expect them to give it away. JJP would go bankrupt doing stuff like that.

Did you get it sorted Monte ?

With some help from JJP I just fitted mine.

Lift off the lid from the big silver box in the cabinet. Look for the smallest board in there.It has a PINK connector at the top left of that board.Unplug the male connector and run it through your ground loop isolator and back to the pink connector.Couple of cable ties to neaten it all up and your done.
Works like a charm.No more annoying buzzing sound.

I just removed the cable for audio from out of the connection behind the silver box, plugged the ground loop isolator into that connection and plugged the audio cable back in to the ground loop isolator. It seemed to have solved the problem. Is it better to open the big silver box and do it like you just said?

Steve from JJP explained via email to do it that way. I have zero buzzing from doing it as he said.

If someone is doing same kind of carrying job - the simplest way was to remove the power as well and stick it into same plastic bag with the wires from the playfield.

Haven’t owned WOZ for a long while but I wrote this up on replacing that rubber. Hope it helps.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-fan-club-members-only/page/47#post-3364781