It's not really necessary.
The vast majority if the earlier games have few lighting issues for home use.

I know of at least a few people who have had little or no issues, yet are buying the 2.0 for back up just in case.

Up to the individual to decide if it's worth it. If you have one of the games that chews up boards, it would be worthwhile. 3 or 4 of the big boards and you've paid for the kit.

LTG : )

The buffered GI boards are interchangeable and any new boards you can buy are probably buffered.
I just bought a 5 pack off the website they were buffered and work perfectly in my un-buffered early game.

Has anyone added the led back box lights to woz like they have for DI?

Yes.

LTG : )

Ordered Cliffy’s Full Set protection (minus rollovers and magnets) - got the email today that WOZ is on a truck and heading my way!!! Hopefully I’ll get it before the weekend!

ohh, that castle cliffy, what a P.I.T.A !

If you don't get the set before the game go buy some mylar and apply strips to the edge of the munchkin mini-pf to protect it until you get the chance to install the cliffy.

To replace the bumper rubber on the top right side (under the spinning house playfield), do you have to remove the entire mini playfield? I'm thinking it may be easier to try and repair the rubber. Thanks.

No you can just loosen the plastic and slip it under it.
It's about a 10 min job that's fairly easy.

Been having trouble with my Castle doors. The left opens fine. Right tries to open but looks like it is restricted or the door stop isn't disengaging. I think in test it seemed like the 'lock' for the door (what keeps it closed when hitting it) wasn't engaging.

Plan on taking the Castle pf off to see what came loose as it'll work intermittently. Any ideas what to look at.

It might be loose and the screws need to be tightened, or the motor is burned out.

Both of mine eventually did this, loose set screw.

I have a WOZ Standard, which is connected with VGA to the monitor. There is some interference in the picture, so I would like to try it with DVI. But how do I access the monitor connectors? Is there an easy way to open the monitor from the backbox - what should one do in order to access them?

Thanks for any tips!

PM me your email address and I'll email you the 10 minute instructions.

LTG : )

I tried bending down the backbox for the connectors and noticed that my monitor apparently only has a VGA-input, so no use to mess with DVI. Apparently I need to get some better VGA-cable due to interference though. I tried some other shorther VGA-lead that I could find in my storage, but it was not any better. Any suggestions on good VGA-cables are appreciated.

Is it a cable? Or do you have a fault in the mainboard video system? Or a loose/worn connector?
It could also be a bad monitor.

Test the monitor by plugging it into a laptop that has VGA out.
Its usually not the cable. I have the same cables on my workbench for the last 20 years. They get loose but they are still perfect.

More likely its a failure in the video subsystem on the PC mainboard or a loose/cracked connector on the mainboard.

Thanks for the tips, I was so ready to blame the cable that those matters did not come to my mind.

It the monitor looks to be ok, maybe I should try this, since the computer has a DVI-output:
ebay.com link: 5FT 1 5M DVI I Dual Link 24 5 Male to VGA Male Video PC Adapter Monitor Cable

Put something like this on the end of the monitor cable:

ebay.com link: DVI I male Analog 24 5 to VGA Female 15 pin Connector Adapter lot wholesale

You can probably get one locally from a computer store or repair shop DVI-I male to VGA female adapter.
They are fairly common.

Hey guys, so I have a question for ya'll. I'm about to order a WOZ. But, I'm thinking of getting a standard, and powder coating all the trim green (LIke the ECLE) as I personally love the green, but want 2.0 system.

Other than some visual nick nacks (castle doors, toto, tornado etc..) is there any real difference between the RR and standard? thanks

None.

But get a used ECLEWOZ if you can. And add the RR toys from Matt at Back Alley Creations.
If your going to try and make a green one.

Dont buy into the 2.0 hype, the 7.5v system works just fine.

Headphone jack?

I noticed that http://pinballs.com has some ECLE's in stock.. but don't appear to be the original ECLE's that JJP sold... rather some green version that they are claiming is ECLE??? I called and the sales rep said they were made specifically for them? ANyone have an input...

I'm a little hesitant to order from them as I have read countless posts of bad experiences ordering from pinballs.com

Yes, dont get those. They were just dumb, trying to capitalize on the demand for the original ones.

Thank you pinballinreno so shady

This is a dumb question but the software version on my WoZ is 6.10. The JJP support site has a delta update going to 6.61 from 6.06. Can I still upgrade from 6.10 to 6.61? Or will I need to install 6.06 and then go to 6.61?

Another question is the USB stick that I'm using. It's a Sandisk Cruzer and it has a folder containing 2 PDF's and an executable. Will these interfere with the update? I've seen posts from others having issues with the update and some were attributed to the stick not being entirely empty.

Thanks!

Yes you can go right to 6.06, just follow the delta instructions.

I wouldn't use Sandisk or any USB stick with anything else on it.

Some people have had success with Sandisk, and from what I've seen in tech support, some haven't.

LTG : )

I have to take my castle playfield off this weekend for some maintenance. For those who have done it, how long to take off and put back on? Thanks.

First time, hour, hour and a half. 4th time - 20 or 30 minutes.

LTG : )

Don’t forget the EOS connector when putting it back on. That thing dedicated to just that so it is small and likes to hide. Seems like I always forget about it.

Thanks. Reminds me of the Ikea chairs I assembled a few weekends ago. The first one took twenty minutes, the sixth took five.

Oops sorry. Is that just to take off, Lloyd, or to both take off and put back on?

Remember where each of the connectors goes through the holes in the play field.

This will save you a bunch of time take a picture if you must.

Other than removing the artwork there's really only 4 screws holding the Castle Playfield on.

So if you've done it before it's really about a 20-minute job 10 minutes to remove 10 minutes to reattach

The whole process. Off, back on, potty and beer break.

LTG : )

Got it. Thanks. Not to mention taking the time to clean and wax the orbit while the playfield is off.

90% of my lights are out. I just ordered 13 light cables. Replacing 1-13 to start. This sucks.

And make sure none of the harnesses are hanging down below the castle playfield trapping balls in the lanes.

LTG : )

If 90% of the lights are out the problem is way down at the beginning of the daisy chain. Bypass one or two at a time until you get some action in the lighting system.

I have had similar ended up being 2 GI light boards in a row that were bad that was it everything else was fine. Bypassing boards by moving the cables around is the only way to fix it or at least to see where the problem is. Basically start at the beginning and work your way up.

Maybe get a 5 pack of GI light boards off the jjp website.

Troubleshooting the lighting system seems daunting and impossible at first. But if you break it up into sections by bypassing whole sections you will see that the lighting actually works and then backtrack for the problem area is. The first time it happened to me I thought it was just impossible to sort out but once I started working on it I figured out what was wrong in 20 minutes just by moving cables around while the machine was live and running and getting things to light up that way I could prove what worked and what did not I think in most cases it ends up being the little GI boards that fail.

He's pretty well versed at figuring this out. His game has a few things going on. Both LED board and connector type stuff. We've talked in the past.

LTG : )

Edit: Never mind, posted before seeing Lloyds post. I'll leave it here in case it helps someone else.

I never had a cable fail, it was always a light board, usually a small GI board. I think the troubleshooting technique is to find the first board that is not working correctly (they're numbered and the manual shows how they're daisy chained) then bypass the board before it.

Reasoning is that the board that is bad is not passing the data on to the next board. If this doesn't work, then try bypassing the board that appears to not be working.

Once you bypass the problem board the lights should start doing something. To get them working correctly you have to go into the settings menu and let the system know which board(s) was bypassed.

Skyemont has some issues you haven't run into.

LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd, edited my post.

Thank you for that. We'll never know how many people get help here without posting or asking.

LTG : )

I got a sense that something was not normal on that game since the mainboard was replaced.
At least it boots up now.
I hope it gets resolved soon, this game has been down for awhile.

Thanks for the tips everyone. LTG has helped alot. I think the lamp board cables green/red are very sensitive. If u pull to hard trying to get them out of the board, the wires come out of the connector. I think this is my problem some were at the beginning. I just ordered 13 cables to replace them all from 29-1 / 1-2 and so on. This has been one hell of a ride for sure.

I have to ask...

If you are going through this much effort why not consider upgrading to the 2.0 system? Then all of these problems with fragile cables, defective lamp boards, etc, all go away.

What's the cost of 2.0?