what are sata cables?

LTG, I turned monitor off as soon as it booted. About 30 sec later it reset.

Thx for ideas!

Flat looking things, follow them from hard drive to motherboard.

LTG : )

Try it before turning the game on.

LTG : )

Yep. Had monitor off. Power on. Reset about 20 sec later. What’s weird is after turning monitor back on played a long game with long multiballs and it did not reset till about a minute after game ended

^^^This!

That connector is very loose. I've had to re-apply hot glue to that connector once or twice.

mine looks very tight in the crystal ball...glue still very solid...where does it plug into the game...Ill unplug it and see if problem goes away

also my L9 is the older small one. The Woz service bulletin says they will swap with a newer larger L9 PS board...Even though mine looks fine could it still cause lock ups?

Lockups are generally when the computer stalls but still has some power.
This can happen for a variety of reasons, mostly low power condition or the hard disk becoming disconnected or failing to respond while the computer is running.

Again check all of the cables in and out of the computer inside the big silver box.
Find the Solid State hard disk in the front of the cabinet it is attached to a SATA flat cable.
Unplug the cable and replug it to insure it is snug. Trace that cable to the mainboard of the computer and do the same.

It is possible that the Solid State hard disk is failing. This is unlikely but it does happen.
Im a big fan of the samsung SSD drives if you replace it.
They seem to give me the least trouble of all the offerings.

And possibly get the updated power supply board.

I got a new mother board today. All the screws are out. But, it still is stuck. How do I get it out?

Everything unplugged ? Sure you didn't miss a screw ? Should come out. If it has a gasket on the connector end, maybe pull a little.

LTG : )

Cross posted in Rob’s powder coating thread.

Gave my standard a little upgrade.

FB5427DD-81BF-40C2-A67C-EB029C6053B2 (resized).jpeg

05B67F7B-1328-4128-BEE8-B7372305A0D4 (resized).jpeg

C7F041F5-CAF6-4078-AC54-71935D38A007 (resized).jpeg

Hey! That’s cheating!

Just kidding. Looks great!

Looks great! Been thinking of doing the same to mine. Mind if I ask how much? And what was the turnaround time?

Contact Robertstone0407 on here and he can hook you up.

I had him do a bunch of stuff for. Turn around is quick and he would need to give you a quote on what you want to have done specifically.

Very nice! Now put a munchkin playfield protector on there.

So my letter "N" in rainbow has gone a little off color and flakey. Game is 14 months new, has less than 500 plays...weak! New light board is $239...seriously! Or I can send mine in for a replacement one for $139, probably a referb...complete crap. Anyone replaced one of the light cells before or know where to get one? I have felt that JJP takes good care of their customers but feel butt hurt on this one.

Have you called JJP? They have helped me past stated warranty before.

Being so close to 1 year, have you called to see if they will goodwill warranty it?

I tried and was denied...I bought this direct from Jack as well.

Was it a 2.0 system?

Nope, 2.0 came out couple weeks after my purchase. I was sent a game that was made over a year prior.

I'm way past one year and so far light boards have been replaced for the cost of shipping, at the moment I have a large number of them out (mostly white won't work) and have a ticket open with them so I guess I'll see.

Got a new Mother Board. Turned the game on and this happens. What now???

12649 (resized).jpeg

You might have to plug in a USB keyboard to get past that and make sure the ssd drive is plugged in and posted in the cmos
as the first boot device?

One of my TOTO roll over switches flashes different colors than the other 3. It seems like it never gets back to its initial color.

Is there a way to test that and or buy a replacement light board for it? Game was built 3/27/2017

The older small boards are available on their website : 7.5 or 5 volts - http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/Wizard-of-Oz-Parts/

If it's the 2.0 boards, best call. 732-364-9900 ext. 1 ask for Paul.

LTG : )

Perfect! Thanks

Loyd did you ever finish the 2.0 conversion,I thought you were sent a kit?

Yes.

Kind of. More parts than an actual kit. Preliminary to JJP's making a kit available.

LTG : )

Im surprised no one has helped. Ive had good tech support with JJP so far...

I talked to Paul @ JJP tech support last week and was told that the conversion kit was on sale !

Retails $1099 Now $799

So would the conversion kit pretty much rule out future light board issues? How difficult will the switch out be? $799 is like the cost of 2 or 3 boards, so I’m trying to do the math...

Yes. If your WOZ loses boards. Not all do.

LTG : )

The 2.0 system is the bomb!

I just talked to support on Friday ordering yet another batch of boards and they said the 2.0kit wasn’t out yet. Is it really out?

If support said it wasn't, it isn't out yet.

LTG : )

So 2.0 is bulletproof? I did have aboard go out early on, but it really hasn’t gotten that many plays since. So I worry it’s a ticking time bomb. Am I wrong?

Probably. The newer buffered boards perform well. Some games may have a board go out, and some games don't.

If you rarely lose a board, I wouldn't worry.

If you lose a bunch or some of the big boards. Then I'd consider the 2.0 kit when it comes out.

LTG : )

New to the club with ECLE/6.61 firmware. It was fine when it shipped, but since it arrived, I've only managed a few complete games before it crashes. A few questions for those with more WOZ experience

Q1. It crashes mid-game and then fails to reboot with a black screen and '99' in the bottom right corner of the display. If I lift playfield and shuffle things around, I can often get it to boot. I've spent many hours checking and plugging in everything mentioned in these forums (ram, crystal ball connector, etc.). Lowering the playfield gently or putting the glass-on even caused it to crash. If I let it idle, it will run for hours without issue. Banging on the side of the cabinet has no effect. Has anyone seen this?

Q2. Is it possible to decipher the error log?
N: 2018-02-27 01:47:21 A: 00000000004c9014, S: 0, E: 12006, T: 3, P: 204

Q3. In solenoid test, the crystal ball vuk (6) fires twice in manual test (fires, delays 1sec, fires again). None of the other solenoids do this. What does this suggest?

Thanks for any insight!

Something's loose. You check the power cord into the back of the cabinet ?

Jibberish, won't help.

LTG : )

yeah something is def loose. time to start wiggling everything!

Yes, I've been pushing, pulling, and re-seating everything. The frustrating part is I can't seem to isolate the general location. (I THINK) It behaves like a short since it affects the PC's ability to boot. After a hang/crash, I have to lift playfield, pull PC cover off, curse and throw pixie dust into the air, and then the game will often boot again. If not, I repeat process (with double the dust and cursing) until it does. It'll run unattended all day.

Any additional triage or test suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Well, it's not jibberish. But it doesn't help either. That's a non-fatal error, and has nothing to do with the issue.
--Ted

Like the black flex tubes the wires go through are dragging across wiring or something at the rear of the huge metal box.

LTG : )

Yea this sucks man; and ultimately, it was one of the main reasons I sold my standard. Had the same exact letter go out on me, white and blue wouldn’t display. It really didn’t bother me much, but the fact that when a light goes out it would cost me $100+ was the deciding factor in selling. This was a little over a year ago so I knew nothing of these conversion kits. If I were you, I’d wait for the 2.0 kit to come out and fork over the extra and do the conversion. The game is awesome and I do miss mine at times so may be worth the upgrade. Or live with it until more light boards go out and then do the conversion.

Check out this thread and the other one that is linked inside of it. Sounds like it can be done with caveats. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-rgb-smt-green-issue

I'm so accustomed to looking at playfields I wasn't giving the PC enough attention. I noticed that when the game doesn't boot, the screen has '99' in the bottom right corner... If I push on the top of the enclosure, toward the back, the '99' counts in hex very quickly and the game continues to boot. I don't think the case is hitting anything but I think I've narrowed it down at least...

Does potc use different rgb gi lighting than the new rrwoz? Just wondering as woz isnt very bright? If its different can woz be fitted with the potc rgb gi?

I have a Hobbit and it's bright woz has the problems of a first game from a new company on one hand it's insanely overkill with playfield and software but has the GI issue and light board problems. I have not played the new game but they can obtain any lighting they want. Worst case pinstadium has fixed this issue for sure so you can get any effect you want.

Yea hobbit and di use only white gi ...potc and woz use rgb .... just wondering what was changed on potc bc it seems much brighter.

Okay, my game is running ... for now. I replaced the metal computer top with cardboard and added a computer reset switch.
I'm sure this is hiding/obfuscating the real issue but I just want to play it and couldn't find the root cause yet.

Thanks for the tip LTG.