(Topic ID: 87617)

WOZ Fan Club - members only

By TigerLaw

7 years ago


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11 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 12588 posts in this topic. You are on page 101 of 252.
#5001 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I fixed mine a long time ago ... well fixed it 99% of the time. I unscrewed one of the bottom ramp screws to completely flatten the ramp transition with the metal piece. That fixed it for me. Try it. Someone suggested it to me about a year or so ago and is probably buried somewhere in one of these WOZ threads. Remove one of the screws and see if it helps. If not, switch to the other screw. If that still doesn't work, at least you tried something that worked for a few people.

While I don't have many ramp airballs, it would be nice to have zero. I tried removing each screw & then both screws but could see no change in how the ramp or flap were positioned. Even with those 2 screws removed, I could not pull up on the plastic ramp--it's secured well by other fasteners.

What I *did* notice was that my steel flap was pulled away from the wood playfield juuuust a little on the right side (near the rainbow targets). May be a non-issue, but I didn't see a way to tweak the flap down without pulling the whole ramp.

Thanks,
-Jason

#5002 3 years ago
Quoted from jasonbar:

While I don't have many ramp airballs, it would be nice to have zero. I tried removing each screw & then both screws but could see no change in how the ramp or flap were positioned. Even with those 2 screws removed, I could not pull up on the plastic ramp--it's secured well by other fasteners.
What I *did* notice was that my steel flap was pulled away from the wood playfield juuuust a little on the right side (near the rainbow targets). May be a non-issue, but I didn't see a way to tweak the flap down without pulling the whole ramp.
Thanks,
-Jason

I wouldn't remove both screws at the same time. Just either the LH one or the RH one. Sorry if I wasn't clear on that. If either of those help to flatten the metal piece to the playfield it should at least help with air balls. It did for a few of us that tried it.

#5003 3 years ago
Quoted from Bos98:

I have finally landed in Oz!
Brought home a really nice 2.0 Woz standard.
Fixed up the Winkie drop target switch issues it had and reconnected all the audio and video connections and now the game is perfect.
Picked up second hand castle walls which I got installed today and have the upgraded Wicked Witch on its way from over seas.
My family loves it too and we have been playing it all weekend.
I would love some Invisiglass but I just can’t justify the cost. Maybe I will pull the sheet I have off my Indy.

Congratulations on the new pin and getting it set up. It’s always good when the family can enjoy it too. WOZ is the perfect theme for that. Enjoy!!

#5004 3 years ago
Quoted from pinstadium:

Congratulations on the new pin and getting it set up. It’s always good when the family can enjoy it too. WOZ is the perfect theme for that. Enjoy!!

Rob Stone is doing my powder on it. I may order your pinstadium lights if I can free up some funds after driving down to pick up my parts from him.

#5005 3 years ago
Quoted from Bos98:

Rob Stone is doing my powder on it. I may order your pinstadium lights if I can free up some funds after driving down to pick up my parts from him.

That’s awesome!!! I would be happy to help you out with that. As far as the powder coating goes, Robert does excellent work. Very quality powder coating and I have some of his work on my machines. Plus he’s a nice guy and very helpful. What color are you going to do on your WOZ? You sort of have an open palette to choose from.

#5006 3 years ago
Quoted from pinstadium:

That’s awesome!!! I would be happy to help you out with that. As far as the powder coating goes, Robert does excellent work. Very quality powder coating and I have some of his work on my machines. Plus he’s a nice guy and very helpful. What color are you going to do on your WOZ? You sort of have an open palette to choose from.

He has done my Indy, Tom and a BSD I just sold. We have been discussing a fade up the legs from a metallic Yellow ala brick road to emerald green at the tops of the legs through to the rest of trim.

He is going to test on a sample leg when the colors arrive.

#5007 3 years ago
Quoted from Bos98:

He has done my Indy, Tom and a BSD I just sold. We have been discussing a fade up the legs from a metallic Yellow ala brick road to emerald green at the tops of the legs through to the rest of trim.
He is going to test on a sample leg when the colors arrive.

Yes has done 3 of my machines so far and I’m gradually getting through them all.

I like that idea (Very cool!) and would love to see it. I’m sure if anyone can do it he can. Please let us know how that goes and what it looks like. It’s cool you are doing something unique and having the standard cabinet trim gives you a great opportunity to do that. Exciting!!

#5008 3 years ago

I was able to escape the light issues for some time (on the 1.75 boards) but I noticed this recently. What's weird is that all the lights work and change color during the tests so it's not like there is a few that are out and I can tell easily what the culprit is.
What's happening is the lights will be on and then all of a sudden the majority start flickering white really fast. One thing I did notice was when I put all lights on white, all but 1, 2, 4, 8, 10, 18 and 20 turn white. Those turn blue except for 4 and 8 which turn purple. Lights that are on the w6 board seem to not be effected at all.
Any thoughts or experience that others have faced seeing this before? I ended up jumping 8 but no luck. Also jumped 3 no luck. Regrouping!
Video

Added over 3 years ago: EDIT - issue has been fixed. Thanks guys!

#5009 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

I was able to escape the light issues for some time (on the 1.75 boards) but I noticed this recently. What's weird is that all the lights work and change color during the tests so it's not like there is a few that are out and I can tell easily what the culprit is.
What's happening is the lights will be on and then all of a sudden the majority start flickering white really fast. One thing I did notice was when I put all lights on white, all but 1, 2, 4, 8, 10, 18 and 20 turn white. Those turn blue except for 4 and 8 which turn purple. Lights that are on the w6 board seem to not be effected at all.
Any thoughts or experience that others have faced seeing this before? I ended up jumping 8 but no luck. Also jumped 3 no luck. Regrouping!
Video
» YouTube video

Mine has done this spontaneously in the past. (re-seating both power and data connections on the board seemed to solve it for me)

When all lights are white, its drawing the most power (all three LED's on each board at full brightness) generally speaking, if this is the time when things go wonky the most, I am thinking loose cable or poor connection between pins some where.

Pop that sucker up and disconnect/re-connect the cables to the light boards (I would do them all) to make sure they have a good connection.

That's where I would start.

#5010 3 years ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Mine has done this spontaneously in the past. (re-seating both power and data connections on the board seemed to solve it for me)
When all lights are white, its drawing the most power (all three LED's on each board at full brightness) generally speaking, if this is the time when things go wonky the most, I am thinking loose cable or poor connection between pins some where.
Pop that sucker up and disconnect/re-connect the cables to the light boards (I would do them all) to make sure they have a good connection.
That's where I would start.

Thanks! When you say, "(re-seating both power and data connections on the board seemed to solve it for me)" - what board did you do this on? The board behind the back box?

-1
#5011 3 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Thanks! When you say, "(re-seating both power and data connections on the board seemed to solve it for me)" - what board did you do this on? The board behind the back box?

The individual light boards

#5012 3 years ago

My Woz 75th just crashed on me in the middle of a game. Anyone know how to decode the error message in the log?

A

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#5013 3 years ago

finally getting my WOZRR 2.0 tomorrow. Long journey to find one with no issues.

#5014 3 years ago

Installing a Lermods trough light that I just received from Mezelmods on my RR and have a question: Should the Led strip have a male connector on the end? Mine has a female end and the splitter they sent has a male end that splits to two females. Am I an idiot or should the end of the LED wire have a male to plug into one of the females of the splitter??????????????????

#5015 3 years ago
Quoted from Grateful_Pin:

Installing a Lermods trough light that I just received from Mezelmods on my RR and have a question: Should the Led strip have a male connector on the end? Mine has a female end and the splitter they sent has a male end that splits to two females. Am I an idiot or should the end of the LED wire have a male to plug into one of the females of the splitter??????????????????

Pm sent

#5016 3 years ago

Had an issue with castle exit wire form optics not working. I traced the issue to the orange wire on main optics board connector came out of the pigtail ..easy fix

At the time i noticed castle doors are now opening with only one impact...not the usual three....check all connectors. All good.... any thoughts ??????

#5017 3 years ago
Quoted from mtp78:

Had an issue with castle exit wire form optics not working. I traced the issue to the orange wire on main optics board connector came out of the pigtail ..easy fix
At the time i noticed castle doors are now opening with only one impact...not the usual three....check all connectors. All good.... any thoughts ??????

Maybe the switch got too closely gapped. I never examined the switch there so I don’t know what type it is. But perhaps something to check.

#5018 3 years ago
Quoted from mtp78:

Had an issue with castle exit wire form optics not working. I traced the issue to the orange wire on main optics board connector came out of the pigtail ..easy fix
At the time i noticed castle doors are now opening with only one impact...not the usual three....check all connectors. All good.... any thoughts ??????

I have not had this issue specifically but I did have a motor go out on my right castle door causing it not to open at all. Initially I thought it was an adjustment but turned out it was not. However after having that mini playfield off at least 7-8 times I became familiar with the layout of the doors. With that said one of my thoughts is that it sounds like maybe the switches got bumped during the fix or wires pulled the switch and it is stuck on(making contact). When you go into switch test does it show those castle doors switches activated?

To test the switch and the opening and closing of them to see if all is good you can manually press down on the metal release underneath and see how it registers. Check the wires and screws holding them. They may need adjustment. There are some pics of this assembly in this thread in the “image gallery” that will help.

Just some guesses.

#5019 3 years ago
Quoted from pinstadium:

I have not had this issue specifically but I did have a motor go out on my right castle door causing it not to open at all. Initially I thought it was an adjustment but turned out it was not. However after having that mini playfield off at least 7-8 times I became familiar with the layout of the doors. With that said one of my thoughts is that it sounds like maybe the switches got bumped during the fix or wires polled the switch and it is stuck on. When you go into switch test does it show those castle doors switches activated?
To test the switch and the opening and closing of them to see if all is good you can manually prsss down on the metal release underneath and see how it registers. Check the wires and screws holding them. They may need adjustment. There are some pics of this assembly in this thread in the “image gallery” that will help.
Just some guesses.

Thanks, i am going to reach out to Frank at JJP and see what he says ..I will report back after we find the cause

#5020 3 years ago
Quoted from mtp78:

Thanks, i am going to reach out to Frank at JJP and see what he says ..I will report back after we find the cause

Sure thing let us know what he suspects.

#5021 3 years ago

Quick question: My lockdown bar has quite a bit of play in it. From the day I unboxed it, it has been this way. Anyone else have this issue? And, if so, how did you rectify it? Thanks!

#5022 3 years ago

yep play and yep hard to secure many times

#5023 3 years ago
Quoted from billycrna:

Quick question: My lockdown bar has quite a bit of play in it. From the day I unboxed it, it has been this way. Anyone else have this issue? And, if so, how did you rectify it? Thanks!

There is some adjustment possible, but I ended up putting colored self-sticking felt under the outside edges of the bar where it rests against the rails.

#5024 3 years ago
Quoted from billycrna:

how did you rectify it?

Two brass screws on top of the lockdown bar receiver are used to adjust the sliding mechanism that holds the lockdown bar down so you can make it looser or tighter.

LTG : )

#5025 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Two brass screws on top of the lockdown bar receiver are used to adjust the sliding mechanism that holds the lockdown bar down so you can make it looser or tighter.
LTG : )

Thank you sir! I should have just PM'd you! LOL

#5026 3 years ago

Have a question on the bolts on the backbox hinge assembly. On the left side the bolt and black bushing on the other side are flush to the hinge and cabinet, while on the right side there's about a half inch gap on both sides. Tried tapping together with a hammer but didn't seem to budge. Is this normal? If not how can I rectify it? Thank you in advance!

#5027 3 years ago

A few pages back I made a post about our WOZ that was damaged when it arrived.
Yersterday we got our replacement and this time everything was a-ok.

The playfield is a bit dark for my taste though, need to add some light..

woz (resized).jpg

#5028 3 years ago

Awesome news Wiggy !! Glad you were able to get it sorted out and a replacement relatively quickly. Congrats on a bueatiful game!

#5029 3 years ago
Quoted from Wiggy:

A few pages back I made a post about our WOZ that was damaged when it arrived.
Yersterday we got our replacement and this time everything was a-ok.
The playfield is a bit dark for my taste though, need to add some light..

That is really good news and as always JJP is excellent with customer support. Congratulations and enjoy !!!

#5030 3 years ago

Sadly it took a totalt of 4 games before a new problem occurred, the right castle door wont open

#5031 3 years ago

Looks lie you are going to learn to remove that playfield early in your ownership,done sweat it not bad at all

#5032 3 years ago

Congrats on the new game!

My WOZ RR was dark once. She is brighter and more cheerful now.

20180101_162424 (resized).jpg

#5033 3 years ago
Quoted from ASOA:

Congrats on the new game!
My WOZ RR was dark once. She is brighter and more cheerful now.

Do you have mirror blades on your WOZ?

#5034 3 years ago

No. Side art blades only.

#5035 3 years ago
Quoted from ASOA:

Congrats on the new game!

My WOZ RR was dark once. She is brighter and more cheerful now.

Pin Stadium?

#5036 3 years ago
Quoted from Wiggy:

Pin Stadium?

My WOZ Pin Stadiums will deliver today. It needs it badly.

#5037 3 years ago

Yes Sir! It is a must for that game.

#5038 3 years ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

Have a question on the bolts on the backbox hinge assembly. On the left side the bolt and black bushing on the other side are flush to the hinge and cabinet, while on the right side there's about a half inch gap on both sides. Tried tapping together with a hammer but didn't seem to budge. Is this normal? If not how can I rectify it? Thank you in advance!

I assume the separation shouldn't be there, not sure if it is something that screws together or crimps, first time I ran into this and don't want to mess anything up.

#5039 3 years ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

I assume the separation shouldn't be there, not sure if it is something that screws together or crimps, first time I ran into this and don't want to mess anything up.

They screw together, I believe using an alan wrench. You’ll likely need one on each side. If it feels tight don’t force it as it might be cross-threaded, if that happens try backing it out a bit before retightening

#5040 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

They screw together, I believe using an alan wrench. You’ll likely need one on each side. If it feels tight don’t force it as it might be cross-threaded, if that happens try backing it out a bit before retightening

Thank you for your response. There's nowhere to use a tool on the outside bolt as the surface is solid, will try turning the one on the inner side as you suggest.

#5041 3 years ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

Have a question on the bolts on the backbox hinge assembly. On the left side the bolt and black bushing on the other side are flush to the hinge and cabinet, while on the right side there's about a half inch gap on both sides. Tried tapping together with a hammer but didn't seem to budge. Is this normal? If not how can I rectify it? Thank you in advance!

Don't know if it's considered "normal", but for what it's worth, mine is like that too. 11/2016 build.

#5042 3 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Don't know if it's considered "normal", but for what it's worth, mine is like that too. 11/2016 build.

It is normal on mine too 7/2014 build, the right side it not flush but left one is. Seems like it's all okay and just a production process.

#5043 3 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Don't know if it's considered "normal", but for what it's worth, mine is like that too. 11/2016 build.

Quoted from pinstadium:

It is normal on mine too 7/2014 build, the right side it not flush but left one is. Seems like it's all okay and just a production process.

Thank you both - feel better leaving well-enough alone now, and it appears to be tight.

#5044 3 years ago
Quoted from apinballwiz:

Thank you both - feel better leaving well-enough alone now, and it appears to be tight.

You’re welcome and yes I just decided to leave mine alone too since it functions as it should.

#5045 3 years ago

Just picked up a under 50 play rrwoz . I have a question about the lights .... my first 6 small inserts that start the yellow brick road seem off. They do rgb fine but the white isnt like the rest? Is this normal ? It causes some of the random colors to be a completely different shade than other inserts. They seem to be warm white compared to everything else?20180204_013740 (resized).jpg20180204_013734 (resized).jpg

#5046 3 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

my first 6 small inserts that start the yellow brick road seem off.

Turn game off. Look at them. Yellow inserts for the first 6, all the rest of the inserts are clear.

LTG : )

#5047 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Turn game off. Look at them. Yellow inserts for the first 6, all the rest of the inserts are clear.
LTG : )

Well then i guess i have no issue lol.... ugh sld of noticed that but i haven't slept in and spent all day picking this thing up.... thanks ltg. What's the reason behind the yellow inserts?

#5048 3 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Well then i guess i have no issue lol.... ugh sld of noticed that but i haven't slept in and spent all day picking this thing up.... thanks ltg. What's the reason behind the yellow inserts?

Tracks progress to either an extra ball or big points. Alternatively awarded every 10 shots.

#5049 3 years ago
Quoted from pinstadium:

I have not had this issue specifically but I did have a motor go out on my right castle door causing it not to open at all. Initially I thought it was an adjustment but turned out it was not. However after having that mini playfield off at least 7-8 times I became familiar with the layout of the doors. With that said one of my thoughts is that it sounds like maybe the switches got bumped during the fix or wires pulled the switch and it is stuck on(making contact). When you go into switch test does it show those castle doors switches activated?
To test the switch and the opening and closing of them to see if all is good you can manually press down on the metal release underneath and see how it registers. Check the wires and screws holding them. They may need adjustment. There are some pics of this assembly in this thread in the “image gallery” that will help.
Just some guesses.

Talked to frank , he told me to activate the castle door switch in the matrix...i did that and switches are working correctly. I also banged around to see if and switches activate from vibration..all is okay. I am thinking about reloading the latest code to see if it has any effect....besides that i am stumped.

#5050 3 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Well then i guess i have no issue lol.... ugh sld of noticed that but i haven't slept in and spent all day picking this thing up.... thanks ltg. What's the reason behind the yellow inserts?

The first 6 are purely decorative. I am not sure why they decided to put lights/inserts under those. They could have merely been art on the wood. I guess it was an art choice in that they decided they wanted the lights to be in a spiral pattern the same as the art (like the beginning of the yellow brick road in the movie starts in a spiral). The #1 insert is the first yellow brick road insert for identifying how many of the shots you have made.

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