No, you only have to start the mode. Toto and TNPLH will also allow you to collect a new mode. I usually plunge all the way to the pops to try to collect a haunted forest mode with each plunge often letting the early one to time out.

This one lead to a nice bonus
image-951.jpg

Limelime given your posting history on woz please exit this thread.

ok thanks guys! I think i officially get the haunted modes now.

What is the point of #different color horses#, only a bonus?

Ya I'm a little confused on the whole horse thing.. It seems to have become more interracial part of the game (4.0) I'm hearing more horse sounds. The shots hard, is it even worth shooting for?

HOADC is more integrated into the game as it works as a multiplier towards the munchkin modes. These can start
to rack up if stacked up with some MBs.

Thanks Taylor, but can someone explain the whole thing, or point me to it ,if it's been discussed already thanks .A lot of strands in the dude's head.

Not only are they a multiplier as Taylor mentioned but certain combinations of horses are worth more (the value collected when the 'collect' shot is made). I don't know what equals what. Keith explained the values of each combination but I don't recall it being easy to remember. I have that list somewhere but have yet to study it.

The horse shot is very difficult, thanks for the advice Taylor, that's kind of what I was trying to do but you are right it is very hard to do.

There is money to be made (a little, anyway) for the person who produces a clear, step-by-step, Idiot's-Guide level introduction to this pin--with video, hopefully. I know I'd buy it. The stuff that's out there is helpful, but it could be done quite a bit better. Different people are intelligent in different ways, and easily comprehending and then memorizing complex rule sets is definitely not my forte.

Craig: it wouldn't surprise me if a tutorial from PAPA turned up soonish.

Collecting a set of horses that are either all the same or all different is a 'win'. Any other set of horses isn't.

There's also variable points depending on what set of horses you have, but not a tremendous number--20k or so at max for the first level?

If you 'win', the next set of horse is one bigger. Bigger sets of horses are potentially worth more points.

i'm working on a "visual" graphic that will act kind of like a pretty "how to" that i plan to print and hang up next to the woz, but I'm taking forever to get it done. lol.

Excellent when you get it done a lot of folks would love to see it posted here, thankx

I put them on mine a few months ago. The second game I played with them, I finished TNPLH mode for the first (and only) time. I really like the way they feel and look. A lot more control in my opinion, but they're not for everyone. I put orange on the castle, I think yellow on the munchkin, and then clear on all the red flippers. The clear is awesome.

HODAC (Horse Of A Different Color) is a side game within WOZ that you can play to earn points and bonus multipliers for certain things. It is both completely ignorable and frustratingly enticing at the same time.

The object is to stack up horses in certain combinations. The horses are placed (as far as I am aware) randomly around the playfield shots. The upper sling under the OZ lanes changes the distribution of horses.

I don't have a list of the combinations, but I think I have a base understanding of the concept. Having horses all be different colors earns more when you collect. The chameleon horses (rainbow) are not the same as any other horses. So they are always good. 4 rainbow horses is pretty big points.

The munchkin multipliers were added recently, so I don't have a good grasp of them yet.

The fun part is the collect shot. It is a tough shot. I like to hit it from the right flipper as the ball is near the top of the upturned flipper. But it really is a risk / reward shot. Very often it can bounce and go out the left outlane or into the slings. I look at HODAC as a fun little side game. Sometimes when I'm in the middle of a bad game I'll go after horses and try to build a big combination. It's tough to do because a lot of times you will have a horse on the orbit you don't want, but need the sling up top to change the horses.

Give him a break, he's looking into possibly getting a WOZ

Incredible...Blown away...Superp Work...Unlike anything I have ever played...You can tell they care...MAKE MORE!

Got mine today ! Cannot describe the feeling of Jersey JackMachine compared to my others.

My jaw is on The FLOOR still!

Oh, lol... My shooter rod was bent during shipping so I cannot use it until I get it replaced. Ummmmm Next Software update? Enable the use of a "press left/right or both flippers" to launch ball?

WOW! THANK YOU.

Get a modded shooter, I like the tinman and the scarecrow.

Really liking the way the bonus works in 4.0 now. Had a good ball last night with a couple of haunted modes stacked with multiballs and a munchkin mode or two, multiplier at least up to 8x, and saw the biggest bonus I've ever seen on WOZ: 285,000.

What is the trick to increasing the multiplier?

Does the multiplier multiply the HF and Munchkin modes?

Has anyone had issues with a block or row of lights not working.........

I have had lights 1 to 35 now not work, which is Rainbow targets, Tinman, Scarecrow and so in that area, is there an easy fix for this?

sounds like either a loose connector or bad board. Go into lamp test, find the last working lamp. The next board in line is most likely the culprit.

I thought when their is a fault a red square in the bottom right shows up on the screen?

The machine doesn't show when there is a faulty board, it is only by cycling through the lights that you notice the lights not working.........I know which board it is just don't no the fix.

I don't think the game recognizes a bad board, it just allows for bypassing it. The only solution I know of is to replace.

Yeah probably the outcome, pretty piss poor for a board to go after 5 weeks of having it, do you know if this is common and also how much the boards are worth?

Many of us that have had games built prior to the newest light boards being used had issues with bds blowing out.
Your game most likely has some of those earlier bds...not a big issue except for your location to get a newer bd quickly.
Just let jjp or Lloyd know which bd blew out......and one or 2, whatever, will be sent to you. Its more than a well known problem and JJP has taken care of everyone who has asked for replacements.

I just brought one home yesterday (build date 3/28/14). The previous owners said they've had no issue with the LEDs, but I'm still curious about the variations of boards that are out there. I know these are 7.5V and they don't have the small filter boards on them. Are there boards with integrated filters on the newest games?

It's just my mind running wild until I can get the game into the basement.

WP_20140810_23_02_22_Pro.jpg

WP_20140810_23_02_29_Pro.jpg

Its 2 boards that are out.

No trick, it is just the rollover lanes up top. The machine I play tends to keep the ball up there for a while, so I've seen 10x bonus on several occasions.

Not sure if the multiplier effects the haunted bonuses and munchkin bonuses.

_{Post edited by neurokinetik: speeling}

I was able to find the answer to my own question, in the manual of all places!

Rev 1.3 boards are the original 7.5V ones, and Rev 1.4 boards include a buffer to drive the signals rather than relying on the outputs on the LED driver.

I had a few cases last night where the Crystal Ball VUK kicked the ball hard enough that it flew out of the habitrail and into the outlane. Finding that I could individually control the power of the VUK coil was another extremely pleasant surprise.

Being able to adjust coil strength on just about every coil in the game is nice. So are the diagnostic and test modes for all the special mechanisms.

Then, what are those Rev 1.1 7.5V boards Mato pictured above?

Sorry, I should have been more specific. I was only talking about the single LED boards (15-0019-00).

For the boards he shows (15-0018-03 and 15-0018-04), Rev 1.1 is the 7.5V design without the buffer, and Rev 1.2 is the 7.5V design with the buffer.

The buffer I'm talking about is B100 (a 74AHCT125), and any boards that have it do not need the small daugther boards. I'm guessing that those were a retrofit to include the same part on the output of each board.

From what I understand, any board with a B100 part on it will not be susceptible to lockups.

Edit:
...and after looking closer, the full part number even changes on those bigger boards. The part about B100 still stands, though. It's all in the manual.

This has been discussed, there is an updated board with a filter "daughter" board attached. you can jumper over the bad board and disable it in settings to keep playing while JJP send you a new board(s), Lloyd will hook you up.

Is it in the manual somewhere? I heard this could be done but not sure the steps to take.

_{Post edited by herg: Found it all in the manual}

Yep, pages E-11 and E-12.

*Edit, even better, check out the manual where Herg mentioned*

With the playfield up, find the board that is bad (each one has a number label printed on it). Also, look at whats plugged in, i'm at work right now, but if my memory serves me right, there is a plug with a red end, which is outgoing to the next board, and there is a green plug on the other side which is incoming from the previous board, and a power cable in the middle. So in my case, recently, #25 blew, while I waited for the new board (with the built in filter)

So i went to #24 (the good board b4 25) and unplugged the red outgoing side (which is going to #25), then i went to #25, and unplugged the outgoing red side (which is going to #26) and plugged it in to the now empty slot in #24.

So what I did was bypass the bad #25 (so #24 now goes next to #26)

Then you go into settings, I believe it is game settings, scroll down to the bottom where you see the numbered light boards, and in my case, i found #25, and turned it off.

Once I got the new board, i swapped it in, plugged the cables back in how they were, and turned #25 back on.

Once you figure out how to jump a board (which is very easy and will be a pro at it in no time)….if you are jumping one of the smaller bds, you can use I believe bd 18 which is located under the bottom right or left sling. Take out the smaller bad bd and replace with the good bd #18. This way, most of your lights will work properly (minus the gi lighting under the slings) and your good to go till you get a replacement. If its one of the bigger bds..than you will need to jump that and be without many lights associated with that board.

Wow jump here there everywhere hahaha, I will give it a go..... thanks for all the info.

So, I was getting rejects from the search loop, found the fix, and now that's working great.

Next up is the launch hanging up under the munchkin playfield. If I give it about 60%, it will sometimes go all the way around into the forest, but at 100%, it rarely does. Anyone else seen this? Any fixes?

whats the search loop? on the plunge I've seen that I think the ball jumps a little and doesn't follow the outside wall but if I apply a little downward pressure on the plunger before I let it go it changes where it strikes the ball and sends it all the way through. try that and lmk if that works. or I'm nuts.

What I'm calling the search loop is the arrow shot on the castle mini-playfield. When I first got the game, it would reject solid shots most of the time.

Regarding the launch, I tried the downward pressure thing, and it may have helped a little. Out of six launches, two made it to the trees. Normally, I might get 1 of 10 through when I pull full blast.

Well the there is no place like home, yellow brick road, TOTO lights and everything up the right side like lion board and throne room board to and including the rainbow lights won't work.

LTG : )™

I just received my set of 4 posters of the prototype playfield artwork signed by Jack that they had for sale at last weeks open house, they are awesome!!

$100 plus shipping for the set, well worth it!!

10527481_826757154009549_7932636015223539252_n.jpg

Llyod....if you jump 18 or even 20...and shut those off in the menu, it will only effect the gi lighting. All other lights you mention will continue to work. I did this when either bds 29, 15 and a couple others went out.

I paid for mine on Tuesday, Jen was very good to deal with, I even was able to get the number I wanted too number (200) as number 1 was taken.

Do you know the measurements as I want to by frames for these?

Last night I had a "lollypop lullaby" that ended up at just over 43000 points at end of ball. I hit all the shots for that one and got all eight munchkins dancing on the screen. (Starting ECMB made it easier).

Now, add a HOADC multiplier to that:

1.5x: 64500
2x: 86000
...and so on.

Yes, these give some opportunities to score some big points!

Alright boards dint work and have no idea, I'm confused about jumping boards as well.

When you say they didnt work, you installed them, plugged them in, and nada? Maybe take a picture showing the new board installed/wired up and the one in front and back wiring wise and post it.