Got a call to look at a 2014 JJP WOZ. I had seen this game before but it was to troubleshoot some features not working. The game booted OK so I wasn't into the electronics other than a bad opto. Mostly re-plugging connectors back in.

This time the game is dead. Coin door lights lit, no display, no playfield lamps, board led's all seem lit at first glance. Sent a quick text to Lloyd for his expertise. Thank you big fella!

Looking at other posts on the subject and Lloyd's advise I took a quick shot at the reset trick. Not the problem. OK, now I get to use all those years of troubleshooting experience. (Getting lazy and was hoping not to go there).

What do you do? Check voltages on the Unified Power Source Board. +5 and +3 good. +12 missing. OK now we know why it doesn't boot.

Fuse F6 Good but the LED under it was out. Checking found no +12 on either end of fuse holder. Looking at the circuit schematic to understand the specifics I then took a good look at the pcb. Q21 blown and some other damage. Can not tell if the Synchronous Buck Controller is damaged. I hate SMT. Time for a new board.

What took it out? I'm guessing a Surge.

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Never done a repair ticket with JJP. I will have Lloyd walk me through it. Thanks for the info.

Frank at JJP was awesome. Explained what may have happened and is going to take care of it with a replacement. That is customer service at it's best. Apparently L9 had been upgraded after this version.

Well, not everything is as simple as it seems. The customer got the replacement Unified Power Supply from JJP. After a close look at it I installed it. I had forgot to mention that I had checked the input voltage to the board. The schematic states 30VDC. It's actually reading 40 VDC but that is with a crippled board that doesn't have this +12 VDC circuit loaded down yet. The bridge is OK.

Upon power up there is no difference. Game is still dead as far as the CPU is concerned. No fan, no monitor, just a bunch of lights on the other boards. F6 LED on the Unified Power Supply is not lit. Hummm. Why? New board and input voltage is sufficient. This is the same as with the bad board except for one thing. There is a rapid ticking sound in the audio.

At connector J1, (Labeled Spare for some reason), there is no +12 VDC. Fuse F6 LED is out as I had mentioned. I pulled this plug out, F6 LED lights, and the CPU fan starts. The monitor shows "no signal" and that's it. If you plug J1 back in again the LED goes out and the CPU fan stops.

J1 in the manual states +12 VDC for chassis muffin fan.

Time to talk to Frank again.

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Unfortunately I was unable to get this running for Thanksgiving. Pinballomatic was spot on. You really should send both boards back at the same time. The reason is obvious. With the power board problem you can't tell if the motherboard has been damaged unless you have a way to test it.

Another call to Frank at JJP and he graciously sent out a new motherboard and a small board labeled "Hi Temp" 15-0000-31-1, that goes at the back of the display.

The motherboard came with a memory stick already installed so the stick in the original CPU will be left in it's socket and returned. There really isn't any installation instructions to follow but beware the new motherboard had it's connectors re-arranged on the board. Make sure when plugging cables back in to follow the mask labels.

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There is a gasket at the edge of the motherboard that will need to be re-attached to the new motherboard prior to installation. The motherboard is held down by 6 screws. Do not over tighten these. Just good and snug.

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Re-insert the cables at the back of the chassis. Insert the USB device with the game serial number into the USB slot.

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Here is where the new LED board goes. When removing the four screws holding the monitor board to the frame I suggest using a magnet nut driver. There isn't much room for fat fingers in there. I was not able to locate this board in the manual. Actually couldn't find much about the monitor at all.

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After making sure it all is connected up properly power the game back on. You will have to re-customize the game for play again.

Service note: I was looking at the playfield rails. It is possible to pull the playfield out too far and drop the upper end into the cabinet. Don't go beyond the second set of bumper pads.

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Wanted to add that in all the years I have been working on games, going to service schools, hanging with the people behind the scenes, and fixing the tough dogs that the other guys wouldn't even show up for I have experienced a lot of interaction with game manufacturers service departments.The guys at Bally in the early days were great. Ed Schmidt, Mark McKay, and others were always super. Williams was great and always went an extra mile when I had to deal with them. Tom Cahill was a guy you could count on. Gottlieb/Premier was super as well, Tony Calabrese always followed up with me on issues. Alvin G and Capcom I had minor dealings with but was more than satisfied.

Jersey Jack Pinball, Frank in particular, went way beyond my expectations. This case may be an unusual one and not an everyday situation. Warranties are what they are and in this case Frank realized I was dealing with an issue that was only going to be resolved by JJP stepping up.

This customer is looking for a second game to go with this WOZ. I recommended Hobbit.

One last thing. The two connectors at the top of the motherboard had RTV keeping them in place. I noticed that the connectors do not have a lot of tension on them when plugged in. Since I did not realize this until I removed the motherboard I did not have any with me so I used a small piece of electrical tape to secure them from lifting off.

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