(Topic ID: 89659)

WOZ check list

By pinstyle

9 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 59 posts
  • 21 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by billycrna
  • Topic is favorited by 38 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

There are 59 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 9 years ago

Here is my WOZ check list i have been building for a while now. I am listing it as per request of another Pinsider.

For those who do not have the time, confidence or knowledge to make there own adjustments/repairs, you have a few options:

Open a help desk ticket: jerseyjackpinbal.com (you'll need to register an account)
Phone support: #####?
Email Mr. Lloyd: [email protected] or [email protected]

******WOZ check list******

•Make sure monkey magnet ball sensor is working correctly.

•Grease monkey mech. (I would use a light weight synthetic grease, something that won't get sticky over time)

•Make sure monkey doesnt rub on castle wall.

•Make sure witch clears on lowering/raising, hat rubs clear cover in the back.

*Add drop dead target foam to back of Glinda target (this will minimize air balls)

•Check playfield hinge screws after a while, they can come loose over time.

•Ramp diverter might scrape ramp assy.

•Pop bumper scrapes ball guide by crystal ball.

•Pop bumper trees come loose after
a while.

• Make sure crystal ball is secured, some are known to fall off mount.

•Make sure crystal ball plug is secure, could cause crystal ball display issues.

•Wire guide or ball might scrape crystal ball.

•Turn down left upper playfield flipper.

•Check castle door mechs for tightness, set screws for doors are known to come loose.

•Check left side special target clears playfield guide.

•Make sure drop target is flush to playfield and doesnt rub going up or down.

•Motor wires for castle doors might touch ball guide.

•USB cable could be loose from driver board to PC, could cause resets.

•Keep an eye out for 4-40 screws that may come loose and fall into cabinet.

• Install cliffys, throne room hole and crystal ball vuk are known to have clear coat cracking around the holes.

• When downloading updates, make sure downloaded file size matches route file after download is complete.

• Check witch drive screw to make sure it doesnt hit opto when witch goes down.

• If game powers off mid game, (only lights on are coin door and back glass, playfield is dark), call for a Unified Power Source Board.

• Add nylocks or thread lock to the screws on the drop target switch (these have been known to come loose).

• F709 should be 3amp slow blow

• If a ball is lost, it could be under the castle playfeild up in a bundle of wires off the main playfield.

• Removing one or two washers from the shooter rod should make the ball launch (plunge) less unpredictable.

• If monkey magnet sense switch (tiny board on back of playfield next to OZ lane magnet) does not work, try turning the board upside down. Could be a polarity issue.
*****magent sense switch should light up green only when the ball is on the magnet. If the magnet sense does not sense a ball on the magent after both opto and roller switch in orbit have been triggered, then monkey will cancel his decent and go back up to the castle*****

• A castle door that wont open (often a buzzing sound heard), it could be that the set screw for the door loosened and the door has now dropped making it not possible for the door to clear the door latch inorder to open.

• Raise wire form in back of search loop on castle playfield if ball is rejected or not smoothly transistioning through the loop. Wire form should be at 50% of ball or higher.

• If game wont power up (nothing at all, dead), check the Power Box Assy., varistor could be blown, should be obvious.

New additions, thank you guys:

*Ball traps under the Munchkin Playfield's flipper: Bend the wire under the flipper upwards a little bit so that the ball rolls into the hole.

*Rubber breaking at the slingshot under the two top OZ rollover lanes: The plastic piece on the slingshot kicker can have sharp edges that cut the rubber and eventually break it. File the sharp edges.

****Link to adjust spinning house****

#2 9 years ago
Quoted from pinstyle:

• F709 should be 4amp

3amp, I wouldn't over fuse it.

LTG : )™

#3 9 years ago

Great list, tighten Winkie guard plastic tab on the switch if it quits working

#4 9 years ago

Also the crystal ball disconnect is no longer an issue. We fixed that ages ago.

#5 9 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

3amp, I wouldn't over fuse it.
LTG : )™

Edited. Somewhere along the road I believe a 4amp was suggested, this is just stuff I picked up along the way. I trust your word though LTG.

#6 9 years ago

Wow that's a long list. I guess this is everything that could possibly need adjustments over a long time?

Thankfully I've only had to slightly adjust a couple of things that probably moved around in shipping and were no big deal to make work 100% of the time.

#7 9 years ago
Quoted from Pinchroma:

Also the crystal ball disconnect is no longer an issue. We fixed that ages ago.

Alex, isn't there another issue that could be a result of a loose connector on the crystal ball? I can't remember but I know it is still suggested to check to make sure the connector is not loose.

#8 9 years ago
Quoted from WesleyCowan:

Wow that's a long list. I guess this is everything that could possibly need adjustments over a long time?
Thankfully I've only had to slightly adjust a couple of things that probably moved around in shipping and were no big deal to make work 100% of the time.

Hopefully, most people (myself included) won't see a fraction of these issues, but when your waiting for your game, you might as well make good use of the time and pay attention to the issue people have had as they come up.

#9 9 years ago

"Hopefully, most people (myself included) won't see a fraction of these issues, but when your waiting for your game, you might as well make good use of the time and pay attention to the issue people have had as they come up."

Agree and here's wishing and hoping you get your WOZ soon and really enjoy it!

#10 9 years ago

Another to add:

-Check the Throne Room deflector. If it is loose (and it often loosens up), the ball will eject SDTM.

#11 9 years ago

Protect the edge of the Munchkinland mini-PF before you even launch your first ball. It gets bashed by airballs (near the right ramp entrance flap).

#12 9 years ago

Regarding F709, yes, 3 Amp, and it needs to be a Slow Blow.

#13 9 years ago
Quoted from Paul_from_Gilroy:

Protect the edge of the Munchkinland mini-PF before you even launch your first ball. It gets bashed by airballs (near the right ramp entrance flap).

Never happened to mine, only had one small hit in my first few hundred games. have a cliffy now and don't think it has hit in the last few hundred. Like the way the cliffy looks though!

#14 9 years ago

Very good list !

I have my WOZ for around 100 games now:

- Castle door went stuck.
- Droptarget switch got loosen
- Airballs .. will install Cliffys today for the VUK´s and Mini PF ... all the others are ugly

Still problems:
Balltrough often the ball needs up to 8 attempts to make it to the shooter lane.
Right upper flipper .. hard to make the skillshot, no power on top of the flipperbat. EOS, etc checked .

#15 9 years ago

Thanks for posting this list pinstyle.

Obviously, you've done your research.

Another thing to point out....adjust your castle VUK so that is has just enough strength to get the ball up to the upper playfield.

The stock settings were too strong...It would launch the ball hard enough to cause it to come out of the side on the wireform, right where it is supposed to drop down to the upper playfield.

JJP should have extended the two 1/8 diameter wireform rods that are on the sides of the drop area about 1/2 inch, then the ball would have no way of coming out the sides

#16 9 years ago

question for other owners...

When the ball comes out of the crystal ball VUK, sometimes it flies out of the wireform as it approaches the inlane/outlane area, which causes the ball to land where the state fair pop bumper is.

Is there an easy "tweek" to fix this?

I've only played about 80 games on my WOZ and have had this happen several times already.

#17 9 years ago
Quoted from pinstyle:

Alex, isn't there another issue that could be a result of a loose connector on the crystal ball? I can't remember but I know it is still suggested to check to make sure the connector is not loose.

Not any longer. The crystal ball disconnect reset issue was handled.

#18 9 years ago
Quoted from TomDK:

Very good list !
I have my WOZ for around 100 games now:
- Castle door went stuck.
- Droptarget switch got loosen
- Airballs .. will install Cliffys today for the VUK´s and Mini PF ... all the others are ugly
Still problems:
Balltrough often the ball needs up to 8 attempts to make it to the shooter lane.
Right upper flipper .. hard to make the skillshot, no power on top of the flipperbat. EOS, etc checked .

On the ball trough problem there are a few possible issues and fixes. First watch the ball as it tries to eject. Is it hitting the little flap cover? If so it may need to be bent. Same with the angle deflector. Also you may want to bump the coil power either up or down a few ticks. Too hard and it may rattle around and bounce off the edge of the angle deflector, too soft and well; you know

Did you bump the coil strength up on the right upper flipper? Also check it's not binding for any reason.

#19 9 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

question for other owners...
When the ball comes out of the crystal ball VUK, sometimes it flies out of the wireform as it approaches the inlane/outlane area, which causes the ball to land where the state fair pop bumper is.
Is there an easy "tweek" to fix this?
I've only played about 80 games on my WOZ and have had this happen several times already.

Drop the power on the crystal ball vuk about 2 or 3.

#20 9 years ago

Some more:

-Ball traps under the Munchkin Playfield's flipper: Bend the wire under the flipper upwards a little bit so that the ball rolls into the hole.

-Rubber breaking at the slingshot under the two top OZ rollover lanes: The plastic piece on the slingshot kicker can have sharp edges that cut the rubber and eventually break it. File the sharp edges.

#21 9 years ago
Quoted from Pinchroma:

Drop the power on the crystal ball vuk about 2 or 3.

Alex,

I've tried that.

After lowering the setting, the VUK has to make multiple attempts to kick the ball through the wireform. Usually, after a few attempts, the machine seems to resort to a higher coil setting on it's own, resulting in the ball flying out of the wireform once again.

I'm guessing that this is because of the software???

Does the machine recognize that it is having trouble, and somehow ups the coil strength on its' own to clear the ball from the VUK?

#22 9 years ago
Quoted from stangbat:

Rubber breaking at the slingshot under the two top OZ rollover lanes: The plastic piece on the slingshot kicker can have sharp edges that cut the rubber and eventually break it. File the sharp edges.

1st I've heard of this.

Thanks for the heads up.

#23 9 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

Alex,
I've tried that.
After lowering the setting, the VUK has to make multiple attempts to kick the ball through the wireform. Usually, after a few attempts, the machine seems to resort to a higher coil setting on it's own, resulting in the ball flying out of the wireform once again.
I'm guessing that this is because of the software???
Does the machine recognize that it is having trouble, and somehow ups the coil strength on its' own to clear the ball from the VUK?

When the vuk has trouble the software compensates by incrementally increasing strength until cleared.

#24 9 years ago
Quoted from Pinchroma:

When the vuk has trouble the software compensates by incrementally increasing strength until cleared.

That's what I thought was happening.

I was wondering if maybe putting in a slightly taller stand-off might help...it would give the wire-form assembly a slight "twist/lean".

It's almost as if the lower wire-form requires some "side-rails" to keep the ball captured within the wire-form.

#25 9 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

1st I've heard of this.

Thanks for the heads up.

I've seen it happen on two games. Kind of a pain to remove the Munchkin PF to replace a broken rubber.

-4
#26 9 years ago

Alex, you should print this list and put it in the factory so the games will be tested and shipped without these issues.

#27 9 years ago
Quoted from Pinchroma:

Not any longer. The crystal ball disconnect reset issue was handled.

I removed the "could cause resets", and added the obvious "could cause display issues."

#28 9 years ago
Quoted from stangbat:

Some more:
-Ball traps under the Munchkin Playfield's flipper: Bend the wire under the flipper upwards a little bit so that the ball rolls into the hole.
-Rubber breaking at the slingshot under the two top OZ rollover lanes: The plastic piece on the slingshot kicker can have sharp edges that cut the rubber and eventually break it. File the sharp edges.

Added yours to the list, thank you Stangbat.

#29 9 years ago
Quoted from Paul_from_Gilroy:

Regarding F709, yes, 3 Amp, and it needs to be a Slow Blow.

Edited, thank you.

#30 9 years ago
Quoted from SilverBallz:

Alex, you should print this list and put it in the factory so the games will be tested and shipped without these issues.

Silver you should keep your passive aggressive trolling out a what is a very useful and informative thread. Most of these issues were very early builds and have been addressed. This is just a comprehensive list of issues people have seen some of which are one off's and were never systemic.

#31 9 years ago

Alex, has the issue with one of the bumper rings rubbing against one of the playfield guides been addressed at the factory?

#32 9 years ago
Quoted from jadziedzic:

Alex, has the issue with one of the bumper rings rubbing against one of the playfield guides been addressed at the factory?

I honestly don't know because my game doesn't do it so I have no point of reference.

#33 9 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

Is there an easy "tweek" to fix this?

Lower the power on the VUK coil. See if the wireform needs to be gently bent to bank the travel of the ball.

LTG : )™

#34 9 years ago
Quoted from TomDK:

Balltrough often the ball needs up to 8 attempts to make it to the shooter lane.

ttp://www.pinplay.com/5/adjusting_the_ball_trough_on_woz.html

LTG : )™

#35 9 years ago
Quoted from Pinchroma:

Silver you should keep your passive aggressive trolling out a what is a very useful and informative thread. Most of these issues were very early builds and have been addressed. This is just a comprehensive list of issues people have seen some of which are one off's and were never systemic.

Agreed, i've had maybe 1 or 2 of these items happen to me. so the majority doesnt apply to myself, however I think its handy to have a reference like this as a go to in case something does happen. +1 for this thread.

#36 9 years ago

I agree this list can be helpful just to know what might need to be tweaked, but thankfully most WOZ's probably have a low % of the issues listed and many are easy fixes. Yes the board issue was upsetting to many but JJP is working very hard and is fixing that.

I'm so grateful for everyone who works for JJP, their dedication, hard work and long hours to create and produce a truly great game. Any company starting out has a lot to learn a lot and will have glitches no matter how hard they try not to. That's not a put down at all, just a reality IMO. I hope JJP employees won't get overly discouraged and realize there are many, many people really enjoying their WOZ's and quite excited about the prospects for future games as well.

My first reaction to this thread wasn't positive, on further reflection, I believe it can be a learning and helpful tool if used wisely and I see several helpful responses.

#37 9 years ago

Thanks for your hints guys !!!
Installed today the Cliffys. Tomorow I will work on the ballthrough and repair my castledoor again.
I tightened all 4 screws, for any reaso the right side will now not open ...

Thanks so far ...

Nobody else with a weak reight upper flipper ? Power is on highest setting but on the top .. powerless. Instead a shot to the skillshot target the ball moves to the left side of the playfield. In the middle it is strong enough but only possible to hit the popbumber.

#38 9 years ago
Quoted from TomDK:

Nobody else with a weak reight upper flipper ?

Be sure the connectors are on tight. In Tests - Switches - Dedicated, push in the flipper button slowly and be sure both leaf blade switches work.

LTG : )™

#39 9 years ago

Thanks again.
Connectors on the coil are fine.
Maybe I bend the EOS little more to the end, it seems that the bat has only "hold voltage" when the ball is on the top of the flipperbat.
The blades from the flipeprbuttons are very wide open, but I guess this is okay. The upper right bat reacts very late due the gap on the blades in the cabinet.

#40 9 years ago

Nice list

#41 9 years ago

Thank B9, I added Mr. Tonks video for adjusting the house. I figured it's another common thing a lot of people ask about.

#42 9 years ago
Quoted from Pinchroma:

When the vuk has trouble the software compensates by incrementally increasing strength until cleared.

Uh, one big increment to max power is all I ever see it do. I wish it was incremental, whenever two balls get stuck in the VUK I kiss them goodbye. One is going over the flippers and one usually lands over the balloon.

#43 9 years ago

I got one.

Phone support, ticket desk, email, what ever.

If you don't hear from me in one day. Please email me. [email protected] or [email protected]

The world isn't perfect and crap happens. I want to be sure you get the help I can provide.

LTG : )

#44 9 years ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

Uh, one big increment to max power is all I ever see it do. I wish it was incremental, whenever two balls get stuck in the VUK I kiss them goodbye. One is going over the flippers and one usually lands over the balloon.

That's all I've ever seen it do too.

#45 9 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

That's all I've ever seen it do too.

Me as well. Up and over they go

#46 9 years ago

I think the lower area of the wireform needs the steel rods shaped into a "tunnel" configuration. There'd be no way the ball could fly out of the wireform.

The castle VUK wireform needs the 2 side rods extended about 1/2 inch in the area where the ball is supposed to drop to the upper playfield. I've seen the ball fly out the side several times already. A few people have already told me the plastic over the winkie target is broken.

I'm going to design a protector for the plastic that is above the winkie target. The protector will go on TOP instead of the bottom, so that when the ball flies out and lands on that plastic, hopefully, nothing breaks.

#47 9 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I got one.
Phone support, ticket desk, email, what ever.
If you don't hear from me in one day. Please email me. [email protected] or [email protected]
The world isn't perfect and crap happens. I want to be sure you get the help I can provide.
LTG : )

Your at the top Lloyd. Thank you kind sir.

#48 9 years ago

"I'm going to design a protector for the plastic that is above the winkie target. The protector will go on TOP instead of the bottom, so that when the ball flies out and lands on that plastic, hopefully, nothing breaks."

Tim,

I think the protector should be established under the decor.
the ball hits the decor when it bounces off the drop target and claw the decor.

And I think it's possible to manufacture also a protector for replaced the top translucent decor.
it must also avoid the ball to jump over.

Thank you in advance for your work

2 years later
#49 7 years ago
Quoted from pinstyle:

Ramp diverter might scrape ramp assy.

How's it possible to fix this? Mine and my friend's game are rubbing really bad creating both a gouge and plastic powder deposited on the ramp from the rubbing.

#50 7 years ago
Quoted from audihere:

How's it possible to fix this? Mine and my friend's game are rubbing really bad creating both a gouge and plastic powder deposited on the ramp from the rubbing.

Loosen the coil, turn slightly, tighten the coil.

LTG : )

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 259.99
Cabinet - Toppers
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
10,500
Machine - For Sale
Warner Robins, GA
$ 395.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pinball Mod Co.
 
$ 24.50
$ 199.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pixels Arcade Games
 
9,300 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Santa Maria, CA
$ 29.99
Hardware
Classic Game Rooms
 
$ 91.00
From: $ 39.00
From: $ 24.00
$ 55.00
Lighting - Other
Pinball Mod Co.
 
$ 345.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pinball Mod Co.
 
$ 225.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pinball Mod Co.
 
11,000 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Burlingame, CA
$ 5.00
10,000 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
San Jose, CA
From: $ 165.00
Lighting - Led
Pinball Mod Co.
 
$ 49.99
Cabinet - Toppers
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 29.00
Cabinet - Other
Filament Printing
 
From: $ 24.00
$ 30.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
From: $ 90.00
Playfield - Other
RavSpec
 
$ 9,800.00
Pinball Machine
Pixels Arcade Games
 
$ 159.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pixels Arcade Games
 
From: $ 12.99
$ 16.95
Great pinball charity
Pinball Edu
There are 59 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-check-list and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.