You can mix, no problem.

What's the build date on your machine?

The reason I asked is yours is in the date range of the early build machines that have lockup problems with any version of 6.xx software installed if you leave them on. If you have the problem, it will lock up within 24 hours (sometimes in as little as 3-4 hours) if left on with any 6.xx version running. When it happens, the screen will be frozen, but the attract mode lightshow will still work, and it will accept money. You just can't start a game. VERY annoying for this pin on a route.

IF you have one of these machines, the only two solutions are to revert to 5.05, which has no problems on the early motherboard because it ran a earlier Linux kernel without the chipset bug(s), or change the motherboard and CPU. I recently converted an original 8/26/2013 ECLE machine with the issue to the newer motherboard/cpu and confirmed it solves the lockup problem which is related to buggy Linux drivers for the video chipset used in the newer 6.xx software. Thread with details and parts noted is here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/woz-6xx-attract-mode-lockups

Your WOZ's build date is towards the end of builds using the 5V light boards. JJP switched to the 7.5V unbuffered light boards for WOZ sometime in September of 2013.

My WOZ has a build date of 10/24/2013 and has the 7.5V unbuffered light boards. I seem to recall reading that it was around the middle of September 2013 when JJP started to use the 7.5V unbuffered light boards on WOZ.

Gord

I was told by JJP tech support that 5v buffered led boards are as good as the 7.5v buffered boards. The biggest problems come from unbuffered boards whether 5v or 7.5v.

How do you know if you have a buffered board?

I have a 2014 build with the 7.5 boards. The lights for the slings and flippers are only displaying red and blue. Any ideas where to start?

You have to figure out which board (or boards) are bad by jumping over them with the cables, connecting the "out" from before the board with the problem to the "in" on the board after the suspect board. When you jump over a board, you MUST remove it from the system on the menu or the colors upstream will not be right.

Here's the diagram (click to make bigger):
lightboard-diagram.jpg

Looks like your problem area is between 19 and 21, if it's just the sling area. Did you do the system menu LED test to see if any others don't display Red, Green, Blue, White properly? You may have a bad one earlier in the chain (towards the top of the PF) that you're not aware of.

Looks like I’m having the same issue with 4 thru 7. Thank you for posting this. I’ll check the boards in the next couple days and post an update.

4-7 may be your root problem and the others around the flippers might be fine. If you have a failing board that's a low number, it can cause color errors on any of the higher-number boards. That's why you need to start at 1 and jump over the first problem board, then remove it from the menu, then test and repeat if you find another board. Has to be very systematic, or it will take you forever and you might end up taking good boards out thinking they're bad.

So I replaced 1-10 and 17-21, all fixed! Only issue I have now is it’s not kicking balls into the trough all the time now and sometimes feeding 2. The multiball arm is firing 11 times now when I turn it on or a game ends. I notice after I lock ball one, it doesn’t kick a ball into the trough. I imagine the 11 ball catch flicks are code for something?

Ball trough optos are the first suspect.

LTG : )

Ouch - 14 boards? That's almost halfway to a 2.0 system. If it was say 3 or 4 boards, I can see replacing, but 14? I would have just bit the bullet and got the 2.0 system so you're guaranteed your light problems are over. All you did by replacing all those boards from the old system is put off the inevitable and dumped a bunch of money in the toilet that you can't put towards the new system now.

It was an hour of time and $275 for a complete set of boards and wires. Whole lot more time and money in the 2.0 conversion. But you’re right, it’s only a band-aid. I can’t see myself ever parting with this tank, so it’ll have to be done at some point.

You have to count your diagnostic time, too, and you'll never get that $275 back. Having been through this, just don't be surprised when the next board fails next month or three months from now, and then the next, and the next. Once they start going, it's a cascade effect, at least it was for the one I have. After a year and eventually replacing every board, thankfully the 2.0 kit became available. Zero problems after that.

In post #9, PinMonk showed a photo of the buffered boards with the daughterboards.

My large boards all have the daughterboard, so I think this means they're buffered.
My small ones don't seem to have the daughterboard...or at least they don't look like the picture in post#9, so...does that mean they're unbuffered?

JJP's website sells buffered boards but the picture looks just like mine (pic below from JJP's website).

Does it make sense that all my large boards would be buffered but the GI would not? Did JJP do this for a while?

1 (resized).jpg

sad, jjp doesn't supply parts we all need for these games, its ridiculous actually.

This really is a supply chain disruption issue. We depend a LOT on everything in China working smoothly.

I would highly recommend that EVERY Wizard of Oz owner place an order as soon as possible for the 2.0 light board upgrade. Get it in your hands and you'll be ready for when your 5v, or 7.5v system starts having problems and eventually fails.

My (2.0) lights are working perfectly. No weird flicker at all.

Get the kit now. You are going to need it someday.

hasn't been available for quite some time unfortunately. ive been waiting

2.0 Kit is supposedly in stock and ready to ship, according to the website:

http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/Wizard-of-Oz-Parts/WOZ-Lighting-Upgrade-Kit.html