(Topic ID: 135412)

WOZ 75th Problems


By greatwichjohn

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 24 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by greatwichjohn
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 4 years ago

Had my WOZ for free play at Pintastic for free play, & play at home. At Pintastic Jack, Butch, myself worked on the pin, & Lloyd watched as we got my pin back up for play Friday morning (next to the Hobbit). It was a small board with electrolytic capacitors near the monitor, took out the game until it was replaced with one next to it. Found the wiring wasn't plastic ties decently on this pin. The power wiring to the monitor board would come loose. I have redone these myself, & used a little bit of clear tape to secure it to the board. Made the cable ties better going to the head. Found I was blowing the fuses for header marque, spot light leds, start button, & throne head blowing the fuse. Looks like it was shorting on the metal L bracket (marque), & light strip. I used masking tape to the bottom (metal strip) & solved this problem. Blew a 4 amp slow blow connected to this while looking for the problem, so no spinning house, or flying monkey until replaced. Radio Shack here in Canada is almost $3 a fuse, so I used masking tape to tape a big 2 amp slow blow to the standard blown fuse in the fuse holder. Until I get a reasonable priced replacement.

#2 4 years ago

Thanks for your post, it made me lol.... I like that the 3.00 fuse is a no go after spending 7k plus on the game. There had to be a line drawn somewhere though, sounds like Radio Shack is the big loser here.

#3 4 years ago

But the tape companies are laughing all the way to the bank!

#4 4 years ago

Actually it's a $13k+ Canadian pin for us north of the US Border. Fuse prices are crazy in my area even from the 2 electronic wholesalers. I will still likely buy a replacement here, but I'm considering buying in bulk from China. Radio Shack (The Source) in Canada looks like fuses & parts will be a memory soon. Everyone here loves the pin, & this is my second WOZ (sold my WOZEC & got a lot of shit from my wife about it). Seems like the only modern pin that appeals to everyone of all ages, & women with no interest in playing pinball!

#5 4 years ago

That's a surprising amount of problems for a game that has been on the line and should (in theory) have had all the kinks worked out a while ago.

Thank you for making your 13K+ pin available to others in Canada. WoZ certainly is a game my daughters each enjoyed playing at the pop-up arcade PinballKyle set up in Vancouver. It not only caught their eye but did hold their attention for the many games we played.

#6 4 years ago

Yep. Wife loves our WOZECLE. Guess it's staying put indefinately.

#7 4 years ago

Wife hated me when I bought my WOZEC. The game will not be leaving, it is her favorite now.

#8 4 years ago

Jesus don't do that! I'll mail you a fuse!

#9 4 years ago

I can send you some chewed bubble gum to keep that 13K Woz running .

#10 4 years ago

Tape works & I will be getting the correct fuse installed. But it goes to show how you can get by in a pinch. I should get a fuse puller that holds onto the fuse. The little bastards disappear, or are hard to find in the big steel box. The tape under the marque will stay, to solve that problem.

There are some things that could of been improved on the design of this pin.

#1 for the display, & it's mounted board. Would of used a bottom hinge assembly. Like pins on panel bottom, hinges with open slots at top. Chain maybe on the right side, so you could drop it down flat for service. Have release buttons at top for quick opening. So you get rid of the stupid 4 screws, & mounts. Then you don't have to balance the display or hold it for service. Could quickly remove it if you had to change the display monitor. Mini boards for service could be easily worked on with it secured flat in place.

#2 Wiring should be properly run to the head & have more length. Stern pins are also bad for these when laying the head down for transport.

#3 with new board designs getting small. Maybe in the future a better placement. Maybe they should go in the head. It would make it way easier to service. Instead of the early electronic days with inner head door, you could have the monitor board drop flat to service boards mounted to the back in the head.

2 weeks later
#11 4 years ago

Well now my WOZ looks like its having light board problems. 75% out or more, only 9 up towards the top middle, & upper left playfield working. Played a game & monitor wouldn't light up on reset (power off/on). So looked at the monitor & wiring ok. Put it back together & it plays. I hope Jack might think of putting the monitor on a bottom hinges for future Hobbit pins. Make it easy to have a look, than removing 4 screws & placing it on the game. My pin is still going strong with the masking tape of 2 amp fuse, & masking tape under the marque metal strip. Still waiting on fuses from China. My pin drops the ball before reaching the castle mostly now also.

#12 4 years ago
Quoted from McCune:

I can send you some chewed bubble gum to keep that 13K Woz running .

Very generous of you Jim. lol

#13 4 years ago
Quoted from greatwichjohn:

Well now my WOZ looks like its having light board problems. 75% out or more, only 9 up towards the top middle, & upper left playfield working. Played a game & monitor wouldn't light up on reset (power off/on). So looked at the monitor & wiring ok. Put it back together & it plays. I hope Jack might think of putting the monitor on a bottom hinges for future Hobbit pins. Make it easy to have a look, than removing 4 screws & placing it on the game. My pin is still going strong with the masking tape of 2 amp fuse, & masking tape under the marque metal strip. Still waiting on fuses from China. My pin drops the ball before reaching the castle mostly now also.

"My pin drops the ball before reaching the castle mostly now also"

Do you mean the ball eject up to the castle? If that is the case, just increase the coil strength in the settings.

#14 4 years ago
Quoted from greatwichjohn:

My pin is still going strong with the masking tape of 2 amp fuse, & masking tape under the marque metal strip.

The stuff of legend..... If your day job fails you, it appears you may have a career as an operator. Better load up on wood screws on that bulk order from China....

#15 4 years ago

On older pins (Not Jersey Jack). I have seen my share of wood screws (going through the playfield) to hold flipper plates or coil stops on. Also abundance of dry wall screws used for repairs. Haven't used bubble gum yet. I have no lighting from #14 - #28, so about 80% is out. Cheap masking tape to hold the longer 2 amp slow blow fuse to blown one is still working out good. Frank is responding.

Does anyone else have ball hang ups under the castle playfield? Also to make the game more fun maybe increase ball save time from 20 to 30 seconds.

#16 4 years ago
Quoted from McCune:

I can send you some chewed bubble gum to keep that 13K Woz running .

Better not, people might start to confuse it with a new Stern...

#17 4 years ago

When I had that, the wires from the castle playfield weren't secured properly and they were stopping the ball. The very first plunge of a NIB game and the ball wouldn't even travel around the orbit.

Quoted from greatwichjohn:

Does anyone else have ball hang ups under the castle playfield?

#18 4 years ago
Quoted from jalpert:

When I had that, the wires from the castle playfield weren't secured properly and they were stopping the ball. The very first plunge of a NIB game and the ball wouldn't even travel around the orbit.

I checked my wires they seem ok now. Maybe pulling the playfield back & forth, raising it cured it. I did rotate the plastic tie up & away, ball moves freely.

My lighting fully returned after I replaced the new cheap 2 amp slow blow fuse from China. So see above comment about playfield moving. Didn't work before I removed the tray cover. But as soon as I replaced the fuse & turned on the game all lighting is good. Seems like quality fuses dirt cheap pricing, $4.75 US + free shipping for 100 of the little bastards!

ebay.com link

You can see how I piggy backed a older standard 2 amp slow blow fuse with masking tape. Served me well until proper fuses were affordably bought. Haven't blown the fuse since installing masking tape under the steel bracket for the head marque.

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#19 4 years ago
Quoted from greatwichjohn:

Well now my WOZ looks like its having light board problems. 75% out or more, only 9 up towards the top middle, & upper left playfield working. Played a game & monitor wouldn't light up on reset (power off/on). So looked at the monitor & wiring ok. Put it back together & it plays. I hope Jack might think of putting the monitor on a bottom hinges for future Hobbit pins. Make it easy to have a look, than removing 4 screws & placing it on the game. My pin is still going strong with the masking tape of 2 amp fuse, & masking tape under the marque metal strip. Still waiting on fuses from China. My pin drops the ball before reaching the castle mostly now also.

I have the same problem. Checked all light boards and they seem fine. Opened the box and it looks like F2 is out. I checked the fuse and it's fine! So something else on the power board is malfunctioning, causing that part of the LED string not to work...

Did you find a solution yet?

#20 4 years ago
Quoted from Cenobyte:

So something else on the power board is malfunctioning,

You might have a shorted LED board. Start with WOZLED1, unplug the power connector to it and see if the LED for F2 lights up. If not try unplugging the larger LED boards one at a time to see if you turn up anything.

You do this with the power on, only unplug the power connector. Turn the game off before plugging the power connectors back on.

LTG : )

#21 4 years ago

Turned out #13 was the bad board. I have a replacement coming. I replaced #13 with #26, so I have almost all lights. But it throws it off towards the end for proper lighting. Better than no leds until part comes.

#22 4 years ago
Quoted from greatwichjohn:

Turned out #13 was the bad board. I have a replacement coming. I replaced #13 with #26, so I have almost all lights. But it throws it off towards the end for proper lighting. Better than no leds until part comes.

You can disable a board in the game settings which wont throw things off. So if you took 26 out, and put it in 13's slot, disable 26 in the menu.

Just remember to re-enable it after putting the new board in.

#23 4 years ago

On my WoZ I discovered the big capacitor on wozled5 has one lead broken off inside the cap. I removed the board, closed the string back up by rerouting around wozled5 and shut down Wozled5 in the settings menu. Unfortunately the problems remain the most of the LED's still stay dark (no change).

About the wozled5 board: I'm not sure if I can replace the capacitor since all soldering points are so small?

#24 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinchroma:

You can disable a board in the game settings which wont throw things off. So if you took 26 out, and put it in 13's slot, disable 26 in the menu.
Just remember to re-enable it after putting the new board in.

Thanks I turned it off as you suggested. Didn't know that was a option. For the above capacitor replacement, as long as you could solder leads (wire) on. You could solder a new capacitor on, & likely silicone it (glue) it to the board to prevent movement.

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