(Topic ID: 76237)
New Haven, CT
Normally I assume 20% tolerance if cap it not marked which would be +/- 3000uf.
Yes, it is bad. I didn't think it is possible for a capacitor to have a perfect ESR of 0.00 ohms.
Quoted from Wolfmarsh:I would, that sucker is way out of tolerance.
20% of 1500 is 1300, so anything below that is out of spec.
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:I think it was a rhetorical question guys. Viper knows what he is doing with boards
Thanks Jim -
The plan was always to replace it even though I'm not using another snap cap...
Came out clean no damage to the through holes.
I found it interesting that its ESR is fine but it's lost some capacitance.
And I was curious if everyone would think the same as I or if someone had a different opinion.
viperrwk
Quoted from mikebetz42:20% of 1500 is 1300, so anything below that is out of spec.
Isn't that what I said? 
Berlin
Ya that looks like a nice tester!
Whats the best way to remove those caps? there's no room to cut the legs. Desolder the back side and hope all the solder comes off?
Quoted from barakandl:I want one! I can't test large caps effectively with my meter and no ESR.
Vid's been using this tester for a while.
It's the only one I know that will test both in circuit and out and has an automatic discharge function. It's pretty idiot-proof. It may not give you a capacitance reading in-circuit but it will always give you an ESR reading which is most important.
Quoted from northvibe:Ya that looks like a nice tester!
Whats the best way to remove those caps? there's no room to cut the legs. Desolder the back side and hope all the solder comes off?
This is where a Hakko really comes in handy. Carefully heat up the joints and remove the solder. Once you have most of it off both leads you can start wiggling the cap and carefully remove it without damaging the through holes. It passed continuity tests on both sides of the board after the cap was out.
Quoted from Schwaggs:C11 on the Flashlamp power circuit? Can a bad cap there cause resets?
I should have mentioned I already replaced C4 & C5 and tossed them as they too tested bad. Since the ESR+ tests in circuit, I was able to test all the electrolytics on the board with it and knew which ones needed changing (C4, C5 & C11.) Finally got around to taking out C11 which had good ESR but bad capacitance so wanted to post the photos with the tester and get people's thoughts.
viperrwk
Viper - thanks! yeah that hakko looks great. And I'd like one along with getting broken pins to fix so I can actually use it a lot. But for the time being I have a standard desolder gun w/ the rubber air bulb. Has worked okay, but I couldn't get a cap off well....I have one like yours but it is bulging on the top.
Quoted from northvibe:Viper - thanks! yeah that hakko looks great. And I'd like one along with getting broken pins to fix so I can actually use it a lot. But for the time being I have a standard desolder gun w/ the rubber air bulb. Has worked okay, but I couldn't get a cap off well....I have one like yours but it is bulging on the top.
Sage advice from Ed @ GPE:
"Electrically, there is no difference between a snap fit cap and a standard radial lead cap.
Snap fit caps were originally used because they are less expensive and work well for automated assembly (these cap hold themselves in place for wave soldering). BUT, as you have found out, they can be a real bugger to replace at times and risk wrecking the board's pads. For this reason, I always recommend replacing them with standard radial lead caps.
When I last replaced, I sucked the solder out, flattened the leads with needle nose while hot, cut off excess sticking through board and was then able to remove it fairly easily. "
viperrwk
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