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Quoted from explosiveegg:How did that tool work out for you? I'm in the same boat you were in and just want to make sure the tool made for an easy install.
The Hanson tool is the definitive solution for casual riveting.
Perfect results.
Quoted from EvanDickson:It worked ok on the first ramp. Someone mentioned that you could use a wood block to back the rivet, but that is not my experience. I found the rivet hammered into my wooden desk before expanding even a little. I then put a thin steel plate (actually a drill hole size gauge) on the desk and found I really messed it up before getting the rivet installed.
That was for the easy ramp that went on to a flat section. The other three will be trickier. I've bought and cut some angle iron that I will put over wood as a backer. I'll wrap that in an old t-shirt or something so I don't scratch up the rivet or ramp.
I also think it would help to have a very heavy work bench over a concrete floor rather than a desk over a wood floor, the latter (which is my setup) probably allows more of the hammer energy to go into bouncing the floor, which means less energy going into deforming the rivet[quoted image]
Riveting is not too difficult but you do need a firm smooth surface to get a clean result:
Use only nickel plated brass rivets.
They dont need much pressure to clinch them.
They should only protrude 1/16" or less before pressing. Use backup washers to fill in the length or use smaller rivets. The "rule of thumb" is that the protruding part should not exceed 1/2 the diameter of the rivet.
In our case of using 1/8" rivets, 1/16" works well enough. But I find that I get less splitting if the rivet protrudes a bit less, something like just a tiny bit more than the thickness of a backing washer.
I generally set the rivet up and place a washer over the end to see how it looks. I dont measure anything.
If the rivet is slightly higher than the washer, Im good to go.
If the part is plastic and needs a washer, I place 2 washers, see how it looks, then remove the 2nd washer.
Using washers to get the right length works beautifully for me.
Its handy to have a helper hold bulky or wobbly items while you setup and press rivets.
Quoted from JodyG:As for the block of wood..
Maple Hardwood floor samples (without foam cushioning) from Home Depot work wonderfully for riveting or clamping protectors.
They are cut into nice 4" squares and they are free.
Quoted from explosiveegg:Using that method you'll need the rollover punch, an appropriately sized rivet (ideally made of nickel plated brass), and a hammer.
You'll need to use a 1/8 in drill bit to drill out the old rivet.
Im using a 3/16" drill bit, either in a drill motor if a hand vice (bit holder). It doesnt take much, or many turns at all.
I no longer drill thru the rivets.
Instead I just thin down the rivet flange to paper thinness.
If you use a brand new bit 3/16" or 1/4", you can use it to carve the flange down a bit by hand even.
Then push the rivet out with a 1/16" harbor freight pin pinch over a 1/4" socket on an extention in my vice as a "catcher".
Generally you need just a light tap with a hammer to get them to push out.
The thinned down flange of soft brass, "folds" around the tool and pushes thru the hole.
A 1/4" hole in a piece of hard wood would accomplish the same think I think.
This avoids the spinning rivet problem which melts plastics etc.
In metal parts you need very little thinning down to pop the rivet thru, sometimes none at all.
This method is 10 times faster and easier on the parts.
Quoted from FatPanda:Ok glad I asked. Will this work? $6 vs $30
amazon.com link »
Most people buy the hanson hand clincher. It works reliably.
the gunsmith punches look pretty good for roll pins and rivet removal. My preference is the flat ended "pin punch" though, you can use then for a lot of things, even pounding out dents etc.
To set a rivet, you can widen the end of the tube with a fat center punch:
Then strike it down with a flat hammer. A dull drill bit would probably work. Brass is pretty forgiving.
This method works pretty good if you can get the rivet flange past 45 degrees with a fat punch.
You dont really need a lot of exotic tools if its only a couple rivets.
Quoted from FatPanda:Yeah, that's why I'm trying to find something cheap or something that will work. I'm sure I'll use it more if I have it, but for right now, it'll only be the one standup target face that I'll be replacing.
I would just use the fat old center punch and a hammer.
Its been done this way for years on casual repairs.
Nickel plated brass rivets are more forgiving than steel ones.
Quoted from Astill:After 23 years of rivet intimidation i bought the pintonka. I cant believe how easy it is to use. I am revisiting all my games with partially installed new plastic sets.
The new rev 2, pintonka is rock solid.
The older one works well enough, but flexes a bit if you have to tighten down it a lot.
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