Charlottetown, PE
Would either of these be suitable for rivetting ramp flaps into place?
(Topic ID: 304953)
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Quoted from dr_nybble:You can also consider a hand squeezer like https://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/topages/handrivetsqueezer.php
I got my dies from https://vintagetrailersupply.com/squeezer-tool-dies-vts-689/
That might be what the doctor ordered. 3" is probably best eh?
Quoted from JodyG:The tool you listed isn't going to work unless you can find squeezer inserts to fit it....which I doubt exist. I've put many flaps on with one of these: HT-174 Hand Rivet Clincher for 1/8" Diameter Tubular Rivets. Designed to BE Used in Conjunction with A Hammer to Clinch/ROLL Tubular Rivets. (Pack of 1) amazon.com link »
Just make sure you support the rivet head with a block of metal or a piece of hardwood, and use a backup washer behind it.
Perfect, I ordered one of these. The squeeze tools seem slicker, but I'm not high volume and this one won't take as much space on the shelf, so definitely willing to give it a try. Thanks! (and thanks to all who replied!)
1 month later
Quoted from explosiveegg:How did that tool work out for you? I'm in the same boat you were in and just want to make sure the tool made for an easy install.
It worked ok on the first ramp. Someone mentioned that you could use a wood block to back the rivet, but that is not my experience. I found the rivet hammered into my wooden desk before expanding even a little. I then put a thin steel plate (actually a drill hole size gauge) on the desk and found I really messed it up before getting the rivet installed.
That was for the easy ramp that went on to a flat section. The other three will be trickier. I've bought and cut some angle iron that I will put over wood as a backer. I'll wrap that in an old t-shirt or something so I don't scratch up the rivet or ramp.
I also think it would help to have a very heavy work bench over a concrete floor rather than a desk over a wood floor, the latter (which is my setup) probably allows more of the hammer energy to go into bouncing the floor, which means less energy going into deforming the rivet
IMG_20220121_110834198~2 (resized).jpgQuoted from zerbam:i have the older version of this..........works great
http://www.arbortime.com/
I have something like this, but mine really sucks. Everything slips sideways long before the rivet deforms.
16427776419057369175767589147113 (resized).jpgQuoted from pinballinreno:Riveting is not too difficult but you do need a firm smooth surface to get a clean result:
Use only nickel plated brass rivets.
They dont need much pressure to clinch them.
They should only protrude 1/16" or less before pressing. Use backup washers to fill in the length or use smaller rivets. The "rule of thumb" is that the protruding part should not exceed 1/2 the diameter of the rivet.
In our case of using 1/8" rivets, 1/16" works well enough. But I find that I get less splitting if the rivet protrudes a bit less, something like just a tiny bit more than the thickness of a backing washer.
I generally set the rivet up and place a washer over the end to see how it looks. I dont measure anything.
If the rivet is slightly higher than the washer, Im good to go.
If the part is plastic and needs a washer, I place 2 washers, see how it looks, then remove the 2nd washer.
Using washers to get the right length works beautifully for me.
Its handy to have a helper hold bulky or wobbly items while you setup and press rivets.
Holy crap. Maybe those are the magic words ("nickel plated brass"). I've been working with the ones I got with the pinbits pressless rivet kit, and the ones I got with the c-clamp pictured above. They're very tough so must be pure steel. I'll have a look for nickel plated brass and try again, thanks for the pro tip!
Quoted from zerbam:i have the older version of this..........works great
http://www.arbortime.com/
This looks like better quality than what I have, and has great reviews. I just ordered one, hopefully it will help me be a riveting fool (instead of just a fool).
2 weeks later
Update: the pintonka clamp/press from arbortime arrived and it's awesome! They provide a guarantee with a test piece, a penny with a hole and an appropriately sized rivet. It works so well! The alignment is great, and there's hardly any play. Clinching was a cinch!
IMG_20220209_085750459 (resized).jpgIMG_20220209_085801337 (resized).jpgIMG_20220209_085840394 (resized).jpgThat link is going to all kinds of various hardware for me. What you're looking for are "tubular" rivets. They look like a short stubby shiny nail with a hollow shaft. 1/8" are what you'll use for pinball stuff. The correct length will vary, depending on the thickness of what you're working with. Probably somewhere between 5/32 and 7/32 for ramps, plastics, and things like that. I'd get an assortment of sizes just to be safe, they're pretty cheap.
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