Oh sure. I am not done with the program for the twinkle (need some adjusting, slowing down the twinkle speed and number of lights on at any one time). I'm also going to throw in a little bit of random color tint to the stars... a bit of blue or red which should give a cool look.

I'll post an update here shortly, I'm waiting on some different WS2812B lighting strips versus the panel I used in the original. This will let me spread the stars out much further and get behind the ships and such. It should look really cool. I think CE/LE owners will want an addon that gives them a similar effect

Two options. The first one I did was have a decal company print on clear window film (the kind you see in store windows that is transparent but has advertisements printed on it) and then just adhered it to the plastic. They can print reverse so it goes on the "inside" of the plastic.

The better option was to just have CPR print them

For SE owners wanting lights. Take a look at this video. All I want to know is if this number of stars (the total number of the lights on the board) looks good to you. This is one option. It's the more cost effective option I think because install is easier. There is another option which will take more work but will give more stars. How many more? Maybe double. Ignore the way the stars flash and timing and such, I'm still writing some code.

After looking at the mondo number I tested with originally I really like the look of them spread out, going a lot slower and twinkling more. It's less of an attention getting and more of a landscape painting with subtle interest. I'm going to see if I can fit a few more, working on the mounting system. I do have the other "system" coming (got the wrong strip originally) to see how much work it will be to splice and cut the strips in to the right shapes. Flat 90 turns with strips are time consuming or expensive and it has to be in a series, nothing can be parallel so lots of 90 turns.

The lights only wrap around the toys So not only will you see them all, you aren't paying for lights that you can't see.

Here's the 2nd method.... I know this one is better, sigh. It's just gonna cost more. I found another product that might help, but I have to get it from China (the only place I found that has it in the US is like double the price) and it takes like 2 weeks. This version needs like 50 solder connections and I'm already having issues with consistency in soldering them. I'm trying some other ways to make this work reliably.

Btw, my wife has never looked in to paintballing.

Cool, that makes things easier and cheaper. I'll see if I can get some bulk pricing on the led strings. I'll put up an add on product in the store once I know the costs.

I have a grip ton of GI boards that I believe fit POTC (they are from WOZ 2.0). I'll confirm. If so, I can send you one to test. I am guessing they will not because this is an easy programming this to change and I wonder if your boards are already RGB (why make just a white one, cost difference is nothing) but the software keeps them from showing any colors. Take a pic of one of your GI boards and post the part number, then we can confirm if they are RGB or not.

Chest lid? You mean the moving one (or the light)? Both of those are pretty final.

The LE version I can mock up tonight or tomorrow. I have everything, just have to figure out the arrangement. Should not be hard.

Buy your lighting!!

Ok, I think I have this priced out. This includes full installation for you (nothing to do but plug it in). It's about 30 LEDs for the SE version. If you order within the next few days we can get it put in to your plastic before we ship. These are attaching directly to the plastic (for the best visual from the front). If we do not get it in time we can send you the lighting strip and controller to install yourself with instructions on how to properly attach and arrange them.

The CE/LE version is listed but I will be posting an example of that soon installed on the game. I'll get videos of both installed. The LE/CE version has less LEDs and they wrap around the starmap. The LEDs do not match the starmap *Exactly* but they are pretty close. Either version is plug and play. There should be no shipping cost on this product and we'll be able to correlate your order by name (so make sure it is shipping to the same name). Before we ship your order we will verify if you placed an order for lighting. Likely that we would be able to ship these out near the end of next week so get your orders in soon.

https://pinballmods.co/full-width-galaxy-starmap-backboard-plastic-jjp-potc

Pretty much. I'm tweaking the programming just a bit and then making a production sample installed on a plastic. I'll post a video of both versions installed soon.

Totally up to you. If you want to see what the final looks like, sure. I don't think there would be any reason you wouldn't want it if you like the prototype video.

You can place another order.

Video is being made this weekend!

Here is the production sample of the SE version. Some notes, the plastic has all of the protective coatings on it (front and back). I think the back can be left on (it's what the LEDs are attached to and so it can be removed later if wanted). The brightness is more than enough that it doesn't seem to be need to be removed. Doesn't anyone have thoughts on this?

With the lights it is a much tighter fit but still seems to work ok still. This was put together in about 15 minutes so the actual production versions will take some more time to really lay out the lights and secure everything nicely. That's why one or two of them are sort of pointed away (not sure if you can tell in the video) because I didn't use as much adhesive as we would in the real one. Each light will be attached before and after the light, securing it facing the plastic.

I now see we can move a few lights down and a few up in specific areas, so I have a template for the light install on the plastic now, should be very consistent for us to make them. It looks really good. I think the programming is too much, too fast so I'm gonna spend a bit more time on that code. The good news is that if anyone wants anything special and has somewhat basic computer skill I can send them a new program to upload.

Sounds good. Personally, I am not sure if I want it either but worth a look for us to see.

Here's the SE one again with a different camera. Old Nikon handheld, might give a better picture... listen to those gears turn, lol. And I changed my spots out for white finally, so no more purple hue. Again, beware the plastic has the coating on (and slightly pulled off on the top) so it's not a good representation of the plastic itself. Just the lights. Pretty happy with the SE version aside from the speed/coincidence on the lighting.

Here is a CE/LE version without the starmap on so you can see where the lights are. It was hard as heck to get these in position. I have another product coming (flat blendable WS2812B strips) which may do much better.

The difference in the light size/style is definitely somewhat apparent. Of course this was in attract mode, so in the game it may be less noticable. The LEDs just have an entirely different display angle and size. I may be happier with the new flat bendable strips, but I'm unconvinced. Maybe with the new programming they will add some ambience and not compete with the speed/size of the starmap lights as much. The problem is the spacing between LEDs in these strips are quite far so I have to deal with a lot of extra wire. The new strip is much more closely spaced as well so just a few strips should cover most of the areas. I also see some areas that could be better aligned (above the BP specifically).

Yeah, I'm going to "twinkle" them more. So better fading and then some little bursts when they are on. It will be more like starlight show and less like some random blinky lights.

Thanks! I'll make it available for people who want them. I'll update with a new video with better animation.

Install on any of them is about 5 minutes if you have a beer while doing it.

I was just getting ready to post an update on the lighting. It's all good news.

If you did not order lighting they are already shipping, in order of placement. The only thing that was holding any back at this point was combining it with the chest actuating mod but I talked with my wife and she is going to start shipping all other parts of the orders and we'll ship the chest mod separately so the wait isn't going to be extended.

LE and CE are the "last" case I am working on because it's a bit more complex layout but I believe I am using the same method for both, so good news that way. Also good news is that I think the lighting will be seperate from the plastic (still testing this out) so I think I can provide them separately even if we already shipped your plastic. Let me confirm this solution and post an update and then figure out what it is going to take to produce. I had to order the bulk of the lights from China because no US distributor has them that I can find. If you can't find it on ebay or Amazon in the US then you know it's a hard to find thing. I found a small string, really expensive at blinkin but it isn't viable to use those for all plastics. The China stuff takes like 2-3 weeks to get here so that's basically what I need to wait for. I was hoping to find them closer to me which is what I've been working on but I'm striking out. They arrived yesterday from blinkin so I'm literally plugging them in now.

Ok, the lights are awesome. They can sit really flat, fit the curves I need and look great. This is the solution for sure. SE no problem, that is basically what is shown below. That is old code, I have better twinkles and timing that I'll post a better video of soon. LE/CE I am working on how it fits around the existing starmap lights. The problem is there is no easy way to get all of the lights to sit the same distance from the plastic (the starmap lights and the add-on lights) so they look different. I wish it was simple enough for people to drill a few small holes in their backboard to let the starmap PCB sit flat. There are just two small capacitors which keep it from doing that. I guess I can provide those instructions if people want to do it, I'll probably test it out because I'm anal like that. I'll post a video of both ways so people can see what the light differences look like on the LE/CE.