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Quoted from cosmokramer:here is the magnet board I pulled out of a LAH that I picked up a few days ago...for some reason the magnets stay on all the time...
A lot of Last Action Heroes had their magnet assembly pulled
from the game. It was badly programmed and never worked right.
I think they fixed the algorithm on Guns & Roses.
Quoted from StrangeSubset1:Works perfectly fine on mine.
You probably have an upgraded ROM revision. Back in the day
I had to fix Five LAH all had the magnet guts removed. The last
one I worked on back in 2001 the guy wanted the magnets and
board put back in. The magnet driver was no longer available
and it was hard to find the right magnets/brackets at the time.
Sega Godzilla stuff was somewhat available at the time. I do not
know if the operator gave up on the idea or not.
Quoted from bflagg:I bet it was less about rubber size and more about theball getting stuck.
Yup! seen that spot before.
Quoted from Texastravis:I wonder if I should replace that post with a star post then.
I would try a mini post first or add an "L" bracket to the metal post.
Quoted from igo4rams:Not the worst but, really why?
That is easy... On location the weak-link with Bally games was the bridge rectifiers.
Beef them up, no more problems with blown lamp fuses and the ball not kicking out.
e.g. Eight Ball Deluxe.
Your welcome.
Quoted from ajfclark:So the circuit looks like this, but with no load?
No load??? try the 7.5 Dc that feeds the lamp circuity. You know the blue solid wire.
Back in the day, you did what ever you could do to keep the games running 24 hrs a day.
Quoted from ajfclark:I see no blue wire in the picture of the bridges:
Not on the "bridge".....
connectors on power supply pc board.
Playfield J1 pin 5 = color [20] = blue.
Backbox J3 pin 11 = color [20] = blue
From your pictures... the output of the wire lead bridge is cut to feed into the external bridge.
It is like having a big fat diode on the output of the main bridge that then feeds back into the old
circuitry. I wired mine in parallel to the bridge on top, so it is like doubling up on the diodes to the bridge.
What you have is a wannabe hack, not that good. I hate when people cutup circuit boards.
Quoted from dothedoo:Although, why you'd do that with the switched illumination is beyond me. GI is what this was normally done for back then.
Answer: Bally's Eight Ball Deluxe. The MOC 3011 is very "sensitive" 
to any AC repel on the
Switched Illumination Buss.
As for the GI, true, true, true.
Quoted from Bakerman:So much easier to transport like this:
Lol... I had a guy do the same thing to a Williams Tri-Zone.
Quoted from polyacanthus:Not sure what went on here. Seems like a lot of effort to replace a missing rubber ring?
Looks like a Data East Simpson pinball... the coil spring is broken.
It is used to keep the ball from getting stuck in that area.
Quoted from polyacanthus:I'd love to know what it is supposed to look like.
The body of the spring is there.
The top half is missing.
One needs to finish the ¼" turn, then continued with a straight leg that
floats past the pop bumper: The straight part rides next to the ring and rod...
( check out cottonm4 plastic hack to get the angle)
The straight part of the wire form is approximately 1¼" or 1½" long.
The pop bumper's ring and rod taps the top of the straight part of the wire form.
Between the ball hitting the spring wire form and the pop bumper hitting the spring wire form...
it leads to the spring getting fatigued and thus breaking.
Quoted from Tuukka:In the 80's the bad guys used to punch or kick on the speaker grille, so that the speaker got torn loose, and then grabbed coins from cashbox via the open speaker hole. There was a rumour that some operators then mounted razor blades to cashbox back edge. Probably just installing cashbox covers should have been enough.
The thief that got me, back in the day, used a soup ladle on one of my games
in order to "fish out" the quarters.
Quoted from FatPanda:It's for Scorcerer
Space Shuttle, Sorcerer, Comet. have the same flipper bracket that uses 8/32 hardware for the back coil stop.
Williams would upgrade the next iteration of their flipper bracket with 10/32 pem nuts and hardware
along with adding the front bumper plug and pushing the front angle part of the bracket forward to
accommodate the new dampener plug.
Firepower II was the first 50volt flipper assembly.
The coil stops were experimental aluminum blocks with plugs sticking out.
The left and right pawl assembly would also go through deferent iterations.
Quoted from MrBally:That's actually a very good on-location repair when parts are not on-hand. Remember, Meteor was pre-internet and just when Federal-Express was coming into the commercial world. Meteors were bringing in over $250-300 a week depending on location. You did not keep them off earning zero/day at all costs. We had to hack the shit out of Stern's crappy flipper mech plates and drop targets all over the place.
Sadly, the two small screws that kept the cap on are missing.
Quoted from zacaj:There are no screws on dead bumper caps. Any time you see any screw on there, that's an operator 'hack'
When Meteor came out by Stern, the "dead" bumper caps had small screws installed.
I know, I know, I know.
I guess somewhere in production, or operator input at the time, made a change...
The Meteor game, I had, that was purchased back in 1981 had screws installed.
One in the front, and one in the back... just like in the picture above.
The screws were on both "dead" bumpers on the upper playfield.
Note: to fix Bally's new thumper bumper design... one has to use two#4 or #5 /#6 screws to mount the cap.
1) One has to drill two small holes inside the new style thumper bumper body... if replaced with newer style, the holes maybe predrilled.
2) Set caps to proper alignment...
3) Drill two small holes in top cap that align with small holes inside the thumper bumper body.
4) Carefully screw in the two screws through the top cap into the body.
5) Black screws are the best...
---EBD is tricky because of the thumper bumper assemblies are mounted in odd angles.
Quoted from MarAlb:Fuses are for wimps….
[quoted image]
I had a boss that did that, in order to find what ever was bad on a game...
He would wait tell a puff of smoke would come out of the game...
"There it is"... he had no patience.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Either way it's better than not having it and letting a connector be plugged in backwards!
Or off by one.
Quoted from cottonm4:This is a non-working Stern Flight 2000 I brought home 3 years ago. I'm finally getting it unfolded. The right flipper mechanism is the correct Stern flipper assembly.
The left flipper assembly is a Williams set up with that huge flipper coil. It looks like the 50 volt coils on my Data East Robocop ( DE copied from Williams liberally ).
It will be item #1 from the job jar.
[quoted image]
And the bottom left slingshot assembly... You got Data East /Atari /Wico style mix.
Quoted from Murphdom:Oh yeah...forgot about this gem[quoted image]
Bally Knockout!
Quoted from Tuukka:Back in EM days, if a game was in a dark corner, clever kids used a large screwdriver to pry the backbox cover open a little from one side, then turned the credit unit wheel to maximum with a bicycle spoke. We mounted a microswitch detecting open cover and a loud alarm inside the backbox. Also securing rods like that were used.
Jon Norris, the Gottlieb pinball designer, used a large magnet
to guide the ball wherever the good spots to get points are at.
He would rack up several specials and extra balls without damaging
the game.
Quoted from cottonm4:The movie Unban Cowboy was in theaters in June 1980.
And EBD was on the floor less than a year later in April 1991.
Rip Van Winkle.
Quoted from ryanbrooks:Opened a game from the warehouse today…this time the foil was used to jump around the fuse.
[quoted image]
That brings me back to the good o'l rout days. 
Quoted from cottonm4:I'm trying to understand the logic for the green shrink tube at that connector pin.
I have had to do the same thing... I use clear and/or black shrink tubing.
Because:
1) The wire jacket pulls away from re-flowing fresh solder to the wire strands.
or
2) The wire jacket melts away/curls away from the fresh solder, exposing
-- a lot more stranded wires.
Here is a WPC neophyte repair or a revenge repair...I do not know.
No 12+ volts? I wonder why
![IMG_0008[1] (resized).JPG](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==)
IMG_0008[1] (resized).JPG
No 50+volts? I wonder why
IMG_0009[1] (resized).JPG
No 18+volts? I wonder why
IMG_0010[1] (resized).JPG
Finally, no 5+volts... I wonder why.
IMG_0011[1] (resized).JPG
Traces and through holes contacts all torn up. Fun,fun,fun.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:And the original bridges were probably fine....
As Johnny Carson would say "so true".
Quoted from MrBally:Definitely a repaint?
I could see it happening in production as those machines were in high demand when first released
The money was flowing and Williams wouldn't want to delay any sales.
Williams Pharaoh has one front cabinet color stencil backwards on some of their
games... So when you looked at the game, the start button had floating bug legs
on top of it.
Quoted from Williampinball:Really why would u do that lol
That is the quick and dirt rout repair. All operators did that to Bally flipper coil stops.
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