There is a hole in the dead bumper caps to add a screw if you want. I don't know if they ever came with them - it's on the side vs. the top for pops.

It's because for a long time the correct rebound rubber wasn't available and the replacement was kind of dead. Tim talks about it in one of his old videos.

It's 20 amps at whatever voltage that circuit is - so in theory if there was a 20 amp fuse in the 120 volt line, the 15amp breaker should trip first.

But a 20 amp circuit in a lower voltage circuit could draw that much. Think about it - you can put 4-5 pins on a 15 amp breaker, and #44 lamps draw 1/4 amp.... if it was 1/4 at 115 volts, you could only have 60 total bulbs for all 4/5 machines! We know that's not true.

reinforce that plastic?

Don't most people doing the hardtop do a lot of insert work and clearcoat it before sticking it down though for best results? That's more work to me.

Not from the threads I was reading people were going way more over the top with it, sanding it and multiple coats.

That's for professionals!

/sarcasm implied

On a hot glue related tangent.... lots of hobbyist videos etc. show using hot glue (like portable consoles made from full size units) - and there's a lot of cheaply made retail products made with it as well. It pretty much removes easily repairability IMO and should be avoided.

I don't buy or use mods for the most part except for software. Those who have seen the source to some of my mods would call them the equivalent of hot glue I'd think.

If that works it's impressive.

If you have to work on it, it's scary.

Advancing the Carry over feature to entice play

- or -

Screwing the player over by advancing it back to the s

Oh, that's vintage pre-1980s routing. They were all hand drawn and created.

The guy that did it at williams (Ray Gay IIRC) did a seminar at Expo 2008 or 2009.

Almost anything is better than butt splices.... they just don't last. I've bought cars that have had a succession of stereos and alarms installed and every one of them had bad splices in the wires you would expect to use for those items. At work an outside contractor used them on our equipment about 3 years ago (we are not allowed to use regular butt splices at all) - we are now seeing a lot of failures in the harness work they did. I've been repairing them with heat shrink and solder with the lineman's splice. I would use the marine connector with the heat gun setup but for 2 reasons: We don't have anyway to power the heat shrink gun where the equipment is (no power.... so I use a cordless soldering iron to solder there) and the far more important reason, work won't pay for the good stuff.

Usually on its own!

Even with good tape it still unwraps.... probably from all the flexing. If I need to leave it on/use it I'll do what you said make it long and then put a wire tie on the ends of the tape to keep it in place. I've done that with heat shrink too when I was too lazy to get the heat gun out (not at work though, usually just some kind of bench harness)

When I moved into my current house the previous owner's electrical work was extremely questionable - I guess he missed the part of the NEC where you can't overstuff junction boxes. All of them were overstuffed and all the wire nuts were reenforced with cheap tape, most of which had melted into goo. So you know those boxes were getting hot hot hot.

He buried a lot of those cheap 'handy boxes' in the walls too, that could barely fit a switch or outlet, and managed to stuff extra connections in there, too.

At a previous job we had a ton of Toshiba laptops that would work ok for a while and then just wouldn't charge. Got tired of sending them out where they would just put in an even more f'd up motherboard in them so I took a look - the solder was cracking on the power input.

So, resoldered and re-inforced with.... a bent paper clip. It worked great to beef up the area.

If they'd cut the extra length and made a new ring at the end you probably wouldn't have even noticed it.

coil stop bracket for bally made out of a window shade bracket.

Brilliant!!

coilstophack (resized).png

No problem it's all color coded!

Also more expensive than stand ups. They do play a lot slower which is not what you want on firepower.

Is there enough slack in the wires to mount it on the other side of the bracket? I thought all the shooter mechs always had the wires really close - I'd probably bend the coil lugs out of the way as much as possible and resolder in this situation. That's always a tight area on the WMS mechs like that.

I've done it

People do that a lot because they don't realize you can buy the connector parts or they just don't know how. Better than soldering directly to the terminals which is the usual field fix.

Related back in the day story.... people cut the wiring that went to the rectifier board in stern mpu200 games all the time because they didn't realize the one harness can come UP out of the cabinet. They thought you had to disconnect all the wiring from the head including the soldered in bulbs. Everyone was used to pulling connectors out of the head and dropping them into the cab for breakdown that they didn't realize you could pull that one UP.

Lots of project games acquired where the wiring has been patched (sometimes poorly) where they cut the wires.

The key thing is pretty common I think due to the number of machines it's been found in with the single drop mechs and I'm sure there's at least one of the multibank mechs with some of them installed too. Just think if it wasn't so obviously a key, and was boxy/blocky everyone would be saying "how do I get one of these extra strength reset fingers?"

The trough thing, yuck. But yes, they did anything they possibly could BITD to keep these running, STTNG was a monster on location taking $$$ in. They were selling on the used operator market in 1993-1994 for $7000 in some cases. Total cash cow.