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Quoted from Atari_Daze:The nicest hack I've seen, a very expensive amphenol connector in today's pick up of a Stern Magic.
Actually considering just leaving it. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I worked with those connectors before in my career. The connector never breaks, just the rubber cable sleeve...and then the cable.
This is one of my favorite threads.
I had one last week that I was too rushed to stop and take a photo. Shame on me. But it was just a course thread wood screw jammed in a coil stop bracket. Nothing new or earth shattering.
Quoted from MarAlb:Fuses are for wimps….
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Yes. Now you know what to do with that extra drill to socket adapter! I'd say that is good for at least 20 Amps...maybe more.
I worked with an intern that checked a PC power supply (back in the late 90s / early 2000s) by shorting the 5V to ground. I had no clue what was going on until I heard bang and the lights dimmed. I told him it was working and now it is trash. I suggested he use his meter first.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:They wanted the notoriety of sometime in the future being featured in this thread on Pinside?
Ha! That's a great comment.
Quoted from Enaud:I picked up a Captain Fantastic today. If the rubber ring breaks, just replace it with a zip tie.[quoted image]
And I'm sure the seller listed it as mint condition!
Quoted from ForceFlow:At least that's easily repairable since they were screwed into the holes where the screws are actually supposed to go. Often times, that's not the case
Yes. The holes were so enlarged. I used the toothpick and wood glue method to fill the holes.
Quoted from koen12344:The Bally Game Show Not sure what they were trying to do here
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That's where my speaker wire got to. LOL
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Hair. Impressive or scary. You decide!
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Holy crap. I've done a lot of board stitching, but that is something!
Quoted from MrBally:No flipper rubbers needed on the Spiderman at the TA truck stop in Rawlins, Wyoming.
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Careful, EM guys will argue endlessly over how much alcohol and magic eraser is needed to get the swirl marks out of that machine.
Quoted from chad:A non scarring hack at least...
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That's where my 1/2" PVC coupling landed...
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Things to avoid:
Insurance companies
The police
The mob
The gov
None of those are your friend
You forgot: Forgetting to pay your Pinball Resource invoice on time.
Quoted from cottonm4:What was this screw holding down?
Yes, a playfield post on a Bally Mata Hari. Yikes!
Quoted from Tallon:How has no one mentioned lamp cord. For bonus points, used lamp cord!
I have a fishing boat that is completely wired with brown lamp cord. No fuses, nothing is labeled and not much works. The person that did that should be hung. My boys and I plan to totally rewire this winter with things like marine wire, fused distribution blocks and LABELS. We have put a whole bunch of hours on it this summer. Winter is project time.
Quoted from phishrace:See if you can spot at least two hacks on the board below. Solenoid driver board from a Bobby Orr Power Play. Only issue on the game currently is down center post coil doesn't fire in test or during play.
First issue is painfully obvious. Never make this mistake while doing board work as it never works. Ever. Second issue is more subtle, game specific, and frankly, makes no sense at all. I'm still scratching my head.
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Q3 wrong part? Q17 installed backwards?
Quoted from JethroP:I'm here to fix your pinball machine.[quoted image]
I think it's more like this guy.
20230204_101008 (resized).jpgQuoted from undrdog:Bought some. Steve said they were correct. Couldn’t get one on; didn’t see how I’d get it off when needed. Images of my thumb crashing through my vintage plastic as I tried flashed before me.
I am helping a friend get his Gottlieb Haunted House up and running after years of sitting idle. There must be 30 of those pal nuts. Most were miserable to remove. I told him, we should try the rubber post caps that were common with other early SS machines. He went with black and so far, it has been fine. I did keep the pal nuts for certain areas like wire gates that didn't have screws to hold them in place.
Quoted from pinballplusMN:Anyone have 5 cents for a quick fix?
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That's hilarious!
Quoted from Pintopia:Miracles do happen Duracells that did not leak![quoted image][quoted image]
That is amazing! Go buy some lottery tickets with that luck.
Quoted from idealjoker:I cannot be the only one reading this thread for ideas. I have a game that smells like a musty old cupboard. I might try leaving an open cinnamon container on the inside for a few months. (My brother has a wooden cinnamon jar that smells great.)
Dryer sheets work well. The smell will never go away, but you can reduce it dramatically.
Yes, I had car that smelled like cigarettes and Febreze worked well. But was not sure how that would work on wood.
Quoted from statictrance:While I'm here - found this in a customer game the other day. He said the game didn't do anything. Actually, it just had a blown solenoid fuse and 80B games won't do anything till the ball kicks over.
Anyway - here's what blew his fuse... Looks like the EOS failed and someone very poorly attempted to wire around it. Except - it blows the fuse instantly so... yeah
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As Beavis and Butthead would say...Fire, Fire!
Thank goodness for fuses.
Quoted from Sputnik:I picked up a Lost World project, they it was working until some smoke came out. F4 had a 25 amp fuse in it, might be something to do with hole burned in board by the bridge.
Some nice wiring hacks also.
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Lol. That's nicely hacked. Also, the date code on the cap from the sound board is 7813. As in 13th week of 1978! Enjoy the project.
2 diodes are over rated.
Quoted from MrBally:But, where is the 2nd diode????
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Quoted from alf_1968:Bally Paragon
Test/diag switch new location...
Those bridges are singing Phil Collins In the air tonight...
Last picture, can you see what is wrong?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
What a mess!
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