(Topic ID: 28788)

Worst hack/repair you ever saw.

By mcclad

11 years ago


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    You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider robertmee.
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    22
    #1935 5 years ago

    Not a hack, but sure was someone cross-eyed.

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    #1938 5 years ago

    That would be a tilt deactivate device....slap .99c on it and sell them

    14
    #1943 5 years ago
    Quoted from MrBally:

    Three bucks at Marco....

    Plus 8.95 to ship it.

    1 week later
    #1964 5 years ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    Maybe the bulb kept coming out?

    I've seen that before with putty...keeps the bulb from vibrating loose in a worn socket.

    3 months later
    #2067 4 years ago
    Quoted from Billc479:

    Doesn’t lamp cord and 20 gauge wire do the same thing?
    Where did my smiley face go?

    Lamp cord is mostly 14 or 12 awg, so it actually is better than 20 awg from a current capacity standpoint.

    #2071 4 years ago
    Quoted from chas10e:

    Most lamp cord is actually #18 gauge, larger #16 gauge is available also. https://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical-Wire-Lamp-Wire/N-5yc1vZc575

    Admittedly, haven't bought it in 30 years. Like everything else, got more expensive and smaller

    1 year later
    #2965 3 years ago
    Quoted from pinball4ever:

    Why spend 20 cents on new flipper rubber when you can just take an old crusty piece that broke off and a tube of super glue and fix it? You don't use the back side of the flipper, so you don't need anything there anyway, right?[quoted image]

    From the looks of the glue, looks like liquid nails.

    5 months later
    #3202 2 years ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    This is something like what I do when I need to splice two wires together (referred to as a lineman's splice), although, I don't pre-tin, use quite so many wire turns on the ends or quite as much wire length since the wires are not load bearing. I use just enough to physically hold them together, then solder, then cover the joint with heatshrink. That way, the splice is secure and there's no chance of it breaking, unlike with a butt connector.

    Been soldering for 45 years starting with model railroads and this is the only method I've ever used.

    3 months later
    #3294 2 years ago
    Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

    Yes I did. That is a switching 5v regulator from https://www.ezsbc.com/product/psu5/
    Every time I come a cross a WPC driver board with low 5 volts, I replace the regulator with one of these and the caps. It works about 90% of the time.

    Yep. I have a ritual. Every time I encounter a 5V issue, I throw in a Kahr board, order the connectors and pins and an ezsbc (although I usually keep a couple on hand). Kahr works until I repin the 5 and 12V connectors, replace the caps and install the ezsbc. Then off comes the Kahr.

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