(Topic ID: 28788)

Worst hack/repair you ever saw.

By mcclad

11 years ago


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  • 4,665 posts
  • 733 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by mojonitro
  • Topic is favorited by 313 Pinsiders

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    You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider grandnational007.
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    #1837 5 years ago

    Damn! I'm actually kind of impressed!

    6 months later
    #2002 5 years ago
    125033 (resized).png125033 (resized).png
    11 months later
    #2496 4 years ago

    I'm a proponent of torx simply for their cam-in properties, and I don't recall ever stripping one.

    4 weeks later
    #2549 4 years ago

    Whridlsoncestood

    Harlem @ Sanctum mystery solved?!?

    1 month later
    #2617 3 years ago
    Quoted from Pinballer22:

    Broken bracket, shoot...this nasty wood screw should do the trick[quoted image]

    I knew before even seeing the coil cover that that was a sega machine; literally every one I've ever worked on, had a broken ball plunge coil bracket.

    My current Baywatch came in with a welded bracket, that is surprisingly square.

    11 months later
    #3080 3 years ago

    Haha, I'm not even that mad

    2 months later
    #3218 2 years ago

    probably a REALLY good way to get all kinds of dust and crud in there...heat sinks are usually meant to be passive, no?

    6 months later
    #3422 2 years ago

    Not sure anyone has ever asked a question here, but...

    Would you consider this a "hack"?

    I have a janky 11pin IDC connector that also has a burnt pin (or at least starting to get dark from a resistance buildup from the shoddy connection over the years) on a GI connection of a WPC game.

    I HATE IDC, and usually replace them with the corresponding number of pin position molex connectors when they eventually go bad. I checked my bin, and of course, I'm out of 11 pins. I do, however, have plenty of 5 and 6 pins.

    If I matched the key position up and stuck a polarizing key in the corresponding connector so it could never be inserted incorrectly, would anybody consider placing the 6 pin next to the 5 pin molex to make the 11 pin a hack? I don't feel like paying shipping on a dozen or so 11 pins when I don't have anything else to lump into an order at this time (Of course I just placed a large parts order a couple of weeks ago...but hey! That's the nature of pinball parts ordering!)

    #3425 2 years ago
    Quoted from cottonm4:

    I do it all the time. It is just a connector that is soldered to the thru-holes in the circuit board. The new rectifier boards I have assembled come with 2 connectors instead of one. No big deal.

    I'm talking about the female plug end, not the board side male header pins, but same difference I guess.

    #3435 2 years ago

    Went ahead, and used the 6 pin molex on the left side, and the 5 pin molex on the right side. Put the polarizing key in the correct 8th slot (2nd pin on the right side 5 pin molex).

    As thought, worked like a charm, and happy with the results. Might put a zip tie around the wire bundle before the two separate connectors, and even sharpie 1-11 sequentially across the two, so it’s even more patently obvious to anyone in the future.

    Top GI string in BSD nice and bright without having to jiggle the connector every few weeks, haha. Hack to fix a hack!

    Thanks for the advice folks.
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    6 months later
    #3640 1 year ago
    Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

    Wire nuts in any location other than in my house's walls makes me rage! If you approach a car or pinball with a wire nut, please think again before proceeding

    Gottlieb System 80 ground mods are about the only case I could make for wire nuts...Just for added shock value, I wrap the bundled wires/wire nuts in electrical tape!

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