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Working through a TZ and TAF. I keep forgetting to take photos of some of these things. I'm often too busy trying to figure out what was done, determining if it's correct and how to restore it back to factory (or as close to factory as possible). I fixed the issues on the TZ but last night I remembered to take photos of the TAF power harness (after I started fixing it but before I really completed it).
Three photos. One of the flipper drive connector at J802. The other two of the wires for the lower left and upper left flippers. The wire configuration was originally swapped from what you see in the photo. That is ... blu-blk connected to blu-gry and org-gry connected to org-blu. The wires of the lower left flipper were cut and connected to the upper left flipper. The wires of the upper left flipper were then connected to the (cut wires of the) lower left flipper. It took me a while to figure out what was actually happening (pre WPC-DCS flipper wiring color is consistent between games but does not follow what I would consider an "obvious" pattern). The why of this "hack" is another question. Not sure I can think of a good reason. The puzzle is left to the reader. As a clue look carefully at J802.
I always forget to take photos before starting work.
Two different kinds of creative solutions on the same board.
1- Two sockets of different manufacturers and sizes combined into one.
2- One socket that is too large with excess pins removed (also inserted in the incorrect direction).
Quoted from PghPinballRescue:This is the kind of thing I love to repair.
With my OCD the way it is, even if that worked, I'd have to fix it.
I'm much the same. I went to town on the board the very night I got it home. That's why I didn't take "before" photos.
For the record ... the only history of this board that I know is that it came out of a The Who's Tommy Pinball Wizard after being replaced by a new Rottendog. The board is revision -04 whereas the game is supposed to have shipped with revision -03. It's actual state is described as it had some weird behavior in the Tommy.
Quoted from PghPinballRescue:Lots and lots of lifted pads, so good luck with that!
I imagine the back of the board is just as bad, if not worse.
There were about 4 or 5 jumper wires in various places across the back of the board. I removed them all in the process of undoing the previous work.
<rant>After spending some time working on boards I completely understand why quite a few repairers won't touch boards that have been previously repaired by someone else. The principle of "you touch it ... you own it" seems to prevail no matter what industry you work in.</rant>
Here are some (closer) photos of the pads and one of a not so unusual finding that I didn't even notice until after I had removed the sockets. The sockets were so obvious that other things were overlooked. The sockets came out cleanly so all this damage was done by the previous repair.
1) alphanumeric PIA
- pin 13 broken trace
- pin 15 broken trace
- pin 17 lifted trace
- pin 19 missing trace (the entire trace is GONE)
- pin 25 missing pad and broken trace
2) lamp PIA (component side)
- pin 23 missing pad and broken trace
- pin 34 broken trace
3) lamp PIA (solder side)
- so nice of the previous repairer to mark the broken traces
4) switch return (rows)
- pin 10 broken trace
5) resistor
- R66 fried
- Q23 and Q24 missing
1_pia_alphanumeric (resized).jpg
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