When I bought my White Water, it was showing the F114-F115 error and the previous owner said it would instantly blow a new fuse. So first thing I looked at was the rectifiers.

http://www.siegecraft.us/the_siege_blog/blog/assets_c/2011/05/100_1937-386.html

The left side piece was the problem. Wouldn't have been too bad of a repair actually, using a lug style instead of a lead style..... except they put it in 90 degrees off, and thus was causing a loop short.

-Hans

The sad thing is, two of those nails are factory originals.

Yeah, but yours has TWO of them.

It's a mod so nice,they had to do it twice!

-Hans

https://img-s.pinside.com/market/09/medium/09798470f9aedd210fdb43f02dd9c868e28665b3.jpg

This one came up a month or so ago, a Williams 'Rat Race'.
Never got developed far enough for dedicated boards to be built. Apparently the ALL look like this, and this was original Williams work done during circuit development and prototyping.

Every time I look at it, I see more jumper wires that I hadn't noticed before.

-Hans

Not a worst, but found this in my Big Hurt today when I brought it home. Bypassed the factory 5vdc power supply with an arcade switcher that never shuts off, as long as the game is plugged in. Just set the game up about an hour ago, so haven't traced where the OTHER extra AC power cord goes yet.

IMGP5977 (resized).JPG

IMGP5976 (resized).JPG

ahhhh. That’s it actually. No acceptor mounted but that other ac wire does run all the way around to power one.

I see what you did there.

Which game is it for? Is that a WPC era machine?

So would this be another case that the WPC style mechanism would be an improvement?

Just wait till you find out about all those JIS screws you thought were Phillips. There’s a reason the screws in your Japanese made stuff seem to strip so easy.

Having owned a Land Rover product, I agree with it all.

The Land Rover defender. Turning radius of the titanic, and just as water-tight.

Not a Wico sound board though, that's a more rare beast apparently.

http://pindude152.blogspot.com/2017/01/laniel-synchroson-ml-1600-pinball.html

That busted switch mount on the ramp on WH20 is really common. The ball catches air going around the turnaround and hits the switch instead of passing below it. You'll know this is happening if a good shot up that ramp either gets returned back to you, or slows down considerably.

There's a deflector above the turnaround section on the ramp, which you can just barely see part of it in the top of that pictures. The common fix is to take the spacer off the rightmost screw, which directs the ball back down into the ramp a lot better, and prevents the impact into the switch mount.

-Hans