Did they use a blow torch heat the shrink wrap?
don't know , that's the way it was when i got the pinball , but i have already replaced the connector since i got it due to some of digits missing from the score displays. whoever did this must have used blowtorch or some big soldering iron.
Quoted from iamdrunker:Did they use a blow torch heat the shrink wrap?
A one-armed blind man with vintage soldering irons.
maybe those were what was used. looks more like antique blacksmith tools , maybe as early as western era.?
Quoted from iamdrunker:Did they use a blow torch heat the shrink wrap?
I tried my best with what I have.
Quoted from GRUMPY:I tried my best with what I have.
[quoted image]
It Burns! It Binds! It Bashes! It Bonds! The world's first and only Soldering Mallet!!
Quoted from Matthew2015:maybe those were what was used. looks more like antique blacksmith tools , maybe as early as western era.?
Those big irons are heated on the flame of an old style gas torch. Used for soldering stained glass windows, auto body work*, sheet metal joining, and other non-electronic things. *Lead alloys are sometimes used as auto body filler and irons like this can smooth it, mold it, etc.
Quoted from Matthew2015:what kind of soldering iron is that? it looks like it has a giant flathead screwdriver tip.
I just saw somebody on YouTube use that to heat a small circuit board to replace tiny surface mount components. He held the iron on the underside of the board and the components up top were released.
Quoted from iamdrunker:Did they use a blow torch to shrink the heat wrap?
Quoted from sparky672:Those big irons are heated on the flame of an old style gas torch. Used for soldering stained glass windows, auto body work*, sheet metal joining, and other non-electronic things. *Lead alloys are sometimes used as auto body filler and irons like this can smooth it, mold it, etc.
[quoted image]
I never seen a complete blow torch with the iron. Cool stuff man.
it might be fast but not very precise.
but it would leave a mark if you touch it while its hot , like a branding iron.
"this mpu connector from a black hole pinball is pretty bad."
I'm thinking he used the drip method? Like they literally poured solder from a tinning cup or something? Wow!
Shawn
Quoted from sparky672:A one-armed blind man with vintage soldering irons.
[quoted image]
7th grade sheet metal class in the 60s. I learned how to solder with these irons.
Quoted from ForceFlow:ChrisHibler posted this on facebook[quoted image]
is that the 'emperor's chair of yellow snakes'?
Not the worst I’ve seen but still, there is something to be said for the uniformity of the wire jumpers.
Gottlieb System 3 Shaq scoreboard
—
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
Thank you for checking out the PinWiki - http://www.PinWiki.com/
that's what happens when you use a wood screw that's too long.
oh wait.. there's two of them ! ... how did they make the same mistake twice?
Quoted from jscaptura:Spotted this "repair" on a Xenon at a local arcade last weekend.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Balls will roll it down flush in no time...
I think on the xenon, that was a mod that was intentionally made to reduce play time.
if your ball is rolling fast, it will probably bounce off of the screw and continue rolling (in some random direction). however, if it's a slow roller, you're going to half to tilt your way out of that predicament. in either case, the operator is going to his money quicker.
those are the type of games that we intentionally seek out for dollar matches because it screws with everyone equally (but we don't play them more than once
Quoted from John_In_WI:Not clear if the fire came before or after their handy work....[quoted image]
I'd say during.
Quoted from jscaptura:Spotted this "repair" on a Xenon at a local arcade last weekend.
...poor mans ball lock...
Quoted from Matthew2015:that's what happens when you use a wood screw that's too long.
oh wait.. there's two of them ! ... how did they make the same mistake twice?
I spotted 3 screws sticking up through the playfield, but the place is so dark there may have been more.
oh .. i see the third one now , right next to the right flipper. it for sure looks it was done intentionally.
Quoted from jscaptura:Spotted this "repair" on a Xenon at a local arcade last weekend.
Somebody call Pin Protective Services on that arcade and take them all away!
Quoted from Wylte:Somebody call Pin Protective Services on that arcade and take them all away!
i would hate to see what bad shape the other pinballs are at this arcade.
Quoted from JethroP:I'm here to fix your pinball machine.[quoted image]
I think it's more like this guy.
Quoted from undrdog:I’m taking the hit for this hack, 'cause I just did it. Some Gtbs used stupid rubber caps on post screws to hold the plastics down.
Not having any, I cut up a rubber ring & drilled a hole for the post with my handy Dremel.
[quoted image]
Rather have anything than the darn non-threaded push down chrome caps. lol
Quoted from koji:Rather have anything than the darn non-threaded push down chrome caps. lol
Bought some. Steve said they were correct. Couldn’t get one on; didn’t see how I’d get it off when needed. Images of my thumb crashing through my vintage plastic as I tried flashed before me.
Quoted from undrdog:didn’t see how I’d get it off when needed.
A socket or nut driver for the speednut and palnut removal tool to hold the post and prevent it from spinning.
Quoted from koji:Rather have anything than the darn non-threaded push down chrome caps. lol
Quoted from undrdog:Bought some. Steve said they were correct. Couldn’t get one on; didn’t see how I’d get it off when needed. Images of my thumb crashing through my vintage plastic as I tried flashed before me.
If it's what I think we're talking about, those make/scratch crude threads as you twist them onto the post. Cannot even imagine the nightmare of pushing them on and pulling them off.
Like ForceFlow said, I just use a nut driver or wrench. If they spin in place, I put a tiny thin open end box wrench on the hex post neck under the plastic and push up gently, giving the speed-nut enough grab to start coming off the post. Craftsman makes nice "ignition" wrench sets that are really cute and tiny, but you only need to acquire the one size... ¼" I think.
You need "thin" more than "tiny" but those two things go hand-in-hand here...
fCraftsman_10_Pc_Metric_Ignition_Wrench_S_6063e6e49adf2 (resized).jpg
Quoted from sparky672:If it's what I think we're talking about, those make/scratch crude threads as you twist them onto the post. Cannot even imagine the nightmare of pushing them on and pulling them off.
[quoted image]
Those things are the pits.
If you like bling, these stainless steel #6 nuts from Amazon look great and are EZ to install.
Quoted from cottonm4:If you like bling, these stainless steel #6 nuts from Amazon look great and are EZ to install.
Yes... you just need a die to cut proper 6-32 threads onto the posts. I thought seriously about doing this. Keeping machine original vs. convenience.
Quoted from sparky672:just need a die to cut proper threads onto the posts
#6 threads already on. The weak point is that they are only 2" long and sometimes with a tall plastic post another 1/4" in length would be helpful.
https://www.pinballlife.com/machine-poststud-530-5010-02.html
Quoted from cottonm4:#6 threads already on. The weak point is that they are only 2" long and sometimes with a tall plastic post another 1/4" in length would be helpful.
https://www.pinballlife.com/machine-poststud-530-5010-02.html
Those are a nice option. Depending on the diameter of the original posts, cutting threads with a die should be fairly easy. Also depending on the number of posts in the game, might be cheaper to cut new threads.
About 20 posts. These aren’t threaded, they have like one long sloping line winding around. There's room for threads and although stainless acorn caps won’t look as great on DAC as they do on Mystic, it’s a nice solution.
Quoted from undrdog:they have like one long sloping line winding around.
That's the "thread" made by the acorn speed-nut.
Quoted from sparky672:If it's what I think we're talking about, those make/scratch crude threads as you twist them onto the post. Cannot even imagine the nightmare of pushing them on and pulling them off.
[quoted image]
Like ForceFlow said, I just use a nut driver or wrench. If they spin in place, I put a tiny thin open end box wrench on the hex post neck under the plastic and push up gently, giving the speed-nut enough grab to start coming off the post. Craftsman makes nice "ignition" wrench sets that are really cute and tiny, but you only need to acquire the one size... ¼" I think.
You need "thin" more than "tiny" but those two things go hand-in-hand here...
[quoted image]
Titan’s “Pinwrench” is the perfect tool for the job:
049BDED5-EDDB-4F22-9F14-7EB7D9A77929 (resized).png
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=24&product_id=152
Quoted from PlanetExpress:Titan’s “Pinwrench” is the perfect tool for the job
Looks perfect. But if one already has a set of ignition wrenches on hand, they are thin enough to work as well.
Quoted from sparky672:That's the "thread" made by the acorn speed-nut
Makes sense. The weird part is, this machine used rubber caps. I’m the one that was going to switch to speed nuts.
Quoted from undrdog:Bought some. Steve said they were correct. Couldn’t get one on; didn’t see how I’d get it off when needed. Images of my thumb crashing through my vintage plastic as I tried flashed before me.
I am helping a friend get his Gottlieb Haunted House up and running after years of sitting idle. There must be 30 of those pal nuts. Most were miserable to remove. I told him, we should try the rubber post caps that were common with other early SS machines. He went with black and so far, it has been fine. I did keep the pal nuts for certain areas like wire gates that didn't have screws to hold them in place.
Quoted from Drewscruis:Those are called pal nuts. No threads are needed for them.
"Palnut" is a brand name and they make all kinds.
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