Quoted from Ceckitti:I’m guessing the previous owner wasn’t a fan of those in lanes.
Indeed, but at least they committed to the "mirrored artwork" aesthetic by reversing the "1" pop bumper cap.
(Topic ID: 28788)
Quoted from Ceckitti:I’m guessing the previous owner wasn’t a fan of those in lanes.
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How many dry wall screws were there before that coat hanger job was added?
Collingwood, ON
Quoted from Ceckitti:I’m guessing the previous owner wasn’t a fan of those in lanes.
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That's one way too keep the ball in play lol
Ramona, CA
Thought I had seen all there was to see on this White Water. Whoever did this is an asshole. On one of the Fliptronics fuses, hidden under the ribbon cables, they jumpered a blown fuse. They put the jumpered side down so you had to take the fuse out to see the jumper. Id have preferred tin foil lol
Quoted from pinballplusMN:Custom battery holder for cyclone. Pill bottle, soldered batteries. Creativity
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That's a new one I guess what u have laying around
Quoted from Knxwledge:Thought I had seen all there was to see on this White Water. Whoever did this is an asshole. On one of the Fliptronics fuses, hidden under the ribbon cables, they jumpered a blown fuse. They put the jumpered side down so you had to take the fuse out to see the jumper. Id have preferred tin foil lol
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Whenever I'm working on a game, I have made it a habit to remove and inspect all the fuses for any issues and make sure they are all the correct values.
First time I've seen something like that intentionally hidden, though.
Quoted from pinballplusMN:Custom battery holder for cyclone. Pill bottle, soldered batteries. Creativity
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
bonus points for trying to create an "anti-leak" mod for the batteries? 
Quoted from Ceckitti:I’m guessing the previous owner wasn’t a fan of those in lanes.
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Is that nasty old lead-based plumbing solder he used to eliminate the lanes?
Just pulled the drop target mech from my STTNG and I'm horrified. Is there a prize for greatest number of botched hacks to a single mech? Let's take a closer look.
1. Base: Screws to attach mech to playfield replaced with much longer screws. Didn't bother using the holes in the base for one since it would involve the trouble of feeding the nut driver around some wires, so screwed down the outside corner of the base in a new angled hole instead.
2. Microswitch: not quite sure what's going on here. Wrong switch entirely, swapped in from who-knows-where; a toaster perhaps? Looks like it's attached to the mech with some random bent/unbent scrap of metal, and by a single screw, plus it's still got a clipped wire attached to it, which may or may not be from this game.
3. Reset plate: let's replace this with a key! Maybe it's the key to the coindoor lock that I had to drill to get into the machine.
4. Target knockdown assembly: coil is missing entirely, and actuator arm is strangely bent, perhaps to keep the target from moving at all. Not that that could possibly happen with this mech.
5. Target: swapped in from a Terminator 2! Maybe the whole mech was swapped in from a Terminator 2 to replace a worse mech, but again, I can't see how that's possible. Spring has been pulled out of shape. And then there's the missing plastic ledge that the face of the target rides against on its way down, not that this one ever goes down. Looks like something that may have once been a pop bumper fiber yoke has been cut down and hot glued in its place.
6: Coil stop: One of the studs has been sheared off entirely. No problem, one stud will do, especially if we install the coil stop loosely and at an angle.
Fortunately the fix for this mess will be quite easy, just buy an entirely new one. Bright side: I now have a replacement drop target for my T2 with a relatively nice decal, should that one ever break.
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100_3471 (resized).JPG
Quoted from jibmums:Just pulled the drop target mech from my STTNG and I'm horrified. Is there a prize for greatest number of botched hacks to a single mech? Let's take a closer look.
1. Base: Screws to attach mech to playfield replaced with much longer screws. Didn't bother using the holes in the base for one since it would involve the trouble of feeding the nut driver around some wires, so screwed down the outside corner of the base in a new angled hole instead.
2. Microswitch: not quite sure what's going on here. Wrong switch entirely, swapped in from who-knows-where; a toaster perhaps? Looks like it's attached to the mech with some random bent/unbent scrap of metal, and by a single screw, plus it's still got a clipped wire attached to it, which may or may not be from this game.
3. Reset plate: let's replace this with a key! Maybe it's the key to the coindoor lock that I had to drill to get into the machine.
4. Target knockdown assembly: coil is missing entirely, and actuator arm is strangely bent, perhaps to keep the target from moving at all. Not that that could possibly happen with this mech.
5. Target: swapped in from a Terminator 2! Maybe the whole mech was swapped in from a Terminator 2 to replace a worse mech, but again, I don't see how that's possible. Spring has been pulled out of shape. And then there's the missing plastic ledge that the face of the target rides against on its way down, not that this one ever goes down. Looks like something that may have once been a pop bumper fiber yoke has been cut down and hot glued in its place.
6: Coil stop: One of the studs has been sheared off entirely. No problem, one stud will do, especially if we install the coil stop loosely and at an angle.
Fortunately the fix for this mess will be quite easy, just buy en entirely new one. Bright side: I now have a replacement drop target for my T2 with a relatively nice decal, should that one ever break.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]
Excellent , love the Key.... I think that is the switch from my washing machine lid interlock ... Big question , was the Tie Back mod done on it ....
Quoted from jibmums:Just pulled the drop target mech from my STTNG and I'm horrified. Is there a prize for greatest number of botched hacks to a single mech? Let's take a closer look.
1. Base: Screws to attach mech to playfield replaced with much longer screws. Didn't bother using the holes in the base for one since it would involve the trouble of feeding the nut driver around some wires, so screwed down the outside corner of the base in a new angled hole instead.
2. Microswitch: not quite sure what's going on here. Wrong switch entirely, swapped in from who-knows-where; a toaster perhaps? Looks like it's attached to the mech with some random bent/unbent scrap of metal, and by a single screw, plus it's still got a clipped wire attached to it, which may or may not be from this game.
3. Reset plate: let's replace this with a key! Maybe it's the key to the coindoor lock that I had to drill to get into the machine.
4. Target knockdown assembly: coil is missing entirely, and actuator arm is strangely bent, perhaps to keep the target from moving at all. Not that that could possibly happen with this mech.
5. Target: swapped in from a Terminator 2! Maybe the whole mech was swapped in from a Terminator 2 to replace a worse mech, but again, I don't see how that's possible. Spring has been pulled out of shape. And then there's the missing plastic ledge that the face of the target rides against on its way down, not that this one ever goes down. Looks like something that may have once been a pop bumper fiber yoke has been cut down and hot glued in its place.
6: Coil stop: One of the studs has been sheared off entirely. No problem, one stud will do, especially if we install the coil stop loosely and at an angle.
Fortunately the fix for this mess will be quite easy, just buy en entirely new one. Bright side: I now have a replacement drop target for my T2 with a relatively nice decal, should that one ever break.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]
Mine also had a key there. Obviously somewhere along the line people figured out it was a quick hack to replace a part with something they had loads of on hand.
Keep in mind too, this vibration ridden mech is where they decided to attached the tieback line that stops the aux board exploding...
Discussion: http://www.pinballrevolution.com/threads/13-sttng-tie-back-mod-best-way.3954/
Quoted from Mageek:Excellent , love the Key.... I think that is the switch from my washing machine lid interlock ... Big question , was the Tie Back mod done on it ....
Quoted from ajfclark:Keep in mind too, this vibration ridden mech is where they decided to attached the tieback line that stops the aux board exploding...
Discussion: http://www.pinballrevolution.com/threads/13-sttng-tie-back-mod-best-way.3954/
Not the first mentions I've seen of this mysterious "tie back mod". Before I delve into your link later, perhaps a terse summation of what exactly it is?
Quoted from jibmums:Not the first mentions I've seen of this mysterious "tie back mod". Before I delve into your link later, perhaps a terse summation of what exactly it is?
The aux board should only really have had flashers hanging off it. Because they put coils on it, there is the usual DC feedback from the coils as the magnetic field collapses.
There needs to be a diode in the circuit etc to protect the transistors. Sadly, rather than do something in the backbox, they used a thin wire from the coil of the single drop reset back to the boards. If that wire vibrates off, you loose all your protection for your transistors on the aux board. They get fried, lock on, and your subway gets toasted.
Picture for 1000 words:
pasted_image (resized).png
Much discussion: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-tieback
Quoted from ajfclark:The aux board should only really have had flashers hanging off it. Because they put coils on it, there is the usual DC feedback from the coils as the magnetic field collapses.
There needs to be a diode in the circuit etc to protect the transistors. Sadly, rather than do something in the backbox, they used a thin wire from the coil of the single drop reset back to the boards. If that wire vibrates off, you loose all your protection for your transistors on the aux board. They get fried, lock on, and your subway gets toasted.
Picture for 1000 words:
[quoted image]
Much discussion: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-tieback
My brand new subway that I just bought? Hell if I'm gonna let that happen. Thanks for the info.
So, the finished mod should look like the diagram on the right, right?
Quoted from ForceFlow:Whenever I'm working on a game, I have made it a habit to remove and inspect all the fuses for any issues and make sure they are all the correct values.
First time I've seen something like that intentionally hidden, though.
I did this for a while, then got lazy or something and stopped, idk. Gonna start doing it again
Quoted from jibmums:My brand new subway that I just bought? Hell if I'm gonna let that happen. Thanks for the info.
So, the finished mod should look like the diagram on the right, right?
Because J106, J107 and J108 share the first 3 pins (you can check for continuity between them with a meter):
pasted_image (resized).png
I find it easier to to utilise the unused J108 as per the link I originally posted. All you need is a 3 pin socket and a single pin to crimp on.
Otherwise, yes, you can put a jumper and punch it straight into the existing IDC:
pasted_image (resized).png
Bulli
picked up a gottlieb Baseball from 1970. was nearly the end of the 2" flipper era. so was common back then for the operators 'converted' them to 3" flippers.
so this meant drilling new holes into the playfield
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Lempäälä
I once bought an old Bally game, originally with 2" flippers, but 3" flippers installed. The seller had found out that if both flippers are up, draining is impossible. So he had quite cleverly installed relays on flipper circuits, to prevent one flipper energizing if the other is already up.
Quoted from JethroP:Why adjust the flipper when you can just drill a new hole and reposition the post?
[quoted image]
Always another way to skin a cat.
Quoted from Tuukka:I once bought an old Bally game, originally with 2" flippers, but 3" flippers installed. The seller had found out that if both flippers are up, draining is impossible. So he had quite cleverly installed relays on flipper circuits, to prevent one flipper energizing if the other is already up.
That must have been quite an awkward feeling when playing that game. Pressing the flipper button and nothing happens would feel very odd, even if just for a split second of normal flipper play.
Quoted from Markharris2000:That must have been quite an awkward feeling when playing that game. Pressing the flipper button and nothing happens would feel very odd, even if just for a split second of normal flipper play.
Sure. And that's why the 3" flippers and relays were quite soon disposed of
Quoted from jibmums:Just pulled the drop target mech from my STTNG and I'm horrified. Is there a prize for greatest number of botched hacks to a single mech? Let's take a closer look.
1. Base: Screws to attach mech to playfield replaced with much longer screws. Didn't bother using the holes in the base for one since it would involve the trouble of feeding the nut driver around some wires, so screwed down the outside corner of the base in a new angled hole instead.
2. Microswitch: not quite sure what's going on here. Wrong switch entirely, swapped in from who-knows-where; a toaster perhaps? Looks like it's attached to the mech with some random bent/unbent scrap of metal, and by a single screw, plus it's still got a clipped wire attached to it, which may or may not be from this game.
3. Reset plate: let's replace this with a key! Maybe it's the key to the coindoor lock that I had to drill to get into the machine.
4. Target knockdown assembly: coil is missing entirely, and actuator arm is strangely bent, perhaps to keep the target from moving at all. Not that that could possibly happen with this mech.
5. Target: swapped in from a Terminator 2! Maybe the whole mech was swapped in from a Terminator 2 to replace a worse mech, but again, I can't see how that's possible. Spring has been pulled out of shape. And then there's the missing plastic ledge that the face of the target rides against on its way down, not that this one ever goes down. Looks like something that may have once been a pop bumper fiber yoke has been cut down and hot glued in its place.
6: Coil stop: One of the studs has been sheared off entirely. No problem, one stud will do, especially if we install the coil stop loosely and at an angle.
Fortunately the fix for this mess will be quite easy, just buy an entirely new one. Bright side: I now have a replacement drop target for my T2 with a relatively nice decal, should that one ever break.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
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I keep thinking I've seen it all, but every time I visit this thread, I am completely shocked an amazed. That's a new one, using a key for your drop target mech. Love it!
1 week later
Quoted from Williampinball:Wow that's a good one I guess use what u have lol
I have seen this before. Cringe.
I just drill through and install a t-nut. Perfect.
This thread stirs my emotions. Lol.
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:I have seen this before. Cringe.
I just drill through and install a t-nut. Perfect.
This thread stirs my emotions. Lol.
Yes same here some times things I have seen before how sweet is that lol
Quoted from Knxwledge:Started on this DE Star Trek thats been sitting for 20+ years. Luckily no corrosion from the 20 year old Duracells. Greeted by this in the backbox though. Hows your Monday going?
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First glance it looks like alot of soldering and some wirenuts were used to replace connectors which may have been harder to find for the previous owner. Or maybe they didn't know how to crimp pins or have the right tool. I suspect you'll find that kind of brute force throughout. "But the boards *look* clean"!! LOL
Quoted from Knxwledge:Started on this DE Star Trek thats been sitting for 20+ years. Luckily no corrosion from the 20 year old Duracells. Greeted by this in the backbox though. Hows your Monday going?
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I'm trying to understand the logic for the green shrink tube at that connector pin.
Quoted from cottonm4:I'm trying to understand the logic for the green shrink tube at that connector pin.
My guess would be too much exposed wire, so risk of short when they get pulled a bit as they are?
Quoted from Knxwledge:Started on this DE Star Trek thats been sitting for 20+ years. Luckily no corrosion from the 20 year old Duracells. Greeted by this in the backbox though. Hows your Monday going?
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The Duracell scares me more than the hacked connector.
Quoted from koji:The Duracell scares me more than the hacked connector.
I pulled Duracell's of the same vintage, month and year, out of an EATPM last week. It didn't go as well. Rob Anthony will have to spend some quality time with the CPU board before it will ever work again. Customer had no idea game had batteries. Twist: Duracell's in poster's game are DC Ultras and Elvira had DC Powerchecks, where you could test the battery by touching two spots on the battery.
Also, shocked to see how minty CN1 and CN2 look. Those are usually the first to get toasty.
IMG_20220815_143940_0 (resized).jpgQuoted from Knxwledge:Started on this DE Star Trek thats been sitting for 20+ years. Luckily no corrosion from the 20 year old Duracells. Greeted by this in the backbox though. Hows your Monday going?
[quoted image]
Wire nuts AND tape. How thorough!
Quoted from chad:Not a terrible hack, but a why would you change up and make more work. The machine screws were all replaced with threaded rod and metal acorn nuts applied. Even for the inlanes. [quoted image][quoted image]
They look great!
Quoted from Schwaggs:Wire nuts AND tape. How thorough!
That was my first thought. The time it took to tape after using wire nuts. Sigh.
Quoted from pinballinreno:They look great!
But if you are going to go to all that trouble for the "look", at least polish the acorn nuts.
If I can remove the plastics to change bulbs without having to remove the posts and rubbers and then put it all back together, it would be worth the extra work. I may look into that.
Quoted from DCRand:But if you are going to go to all that trouble for the "look", at least polish the acorn nuts.
He went to all that trouble and didn't get stainless acorn nuts? Geeze! I've got stainless acorns on Mystic. It looks great.
Quoted from Knxwledge:Here's that wire nut mess all cleaned up.
I never understand why people will work so hard to do things wrong. Nice job.
Quoted from oldschoolbob:I never understand why people will work so hard to do things wrong. Nice job.
Yeah.. thankfully there is a higher standard these days based on resale value and expectations.
Quoted from Knxwledge:Here's that wire nut mess all cleaned up. Clipped the zip ties after the photo was taken lol
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But how will that work now? You changed the colors of the wires?
And you might need some electrical tape around the white / brown.
Quoted from rmillman:But how will that work now? You changed the colors of the wires?
And you might need some electrical tape around the white / brown.
I'd just pull the connector pin and see if I could just slip a longer piece of heat shrink on it.
Quoted from rmillman:But how will that work now? You changed the colors of the wires?
Fortunately, the wire color change is close to the termination point and everything can be easily inspected. And if some of the correct wire comes along, it will be easy to make the swap.
Quoted from rmillman:But how will that work now? You changed the colors of the wires?
And you might need some electrical tape around the white / brown.
Every pinball machine needs:
Tape
Drywall screws
Wire-nuts
nails
keys
paper clips
wire ties
rubberbands
Or they wont work right.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Every pinball machine needs:
Tape
Drywall screws
Wire-nuts
nails
keys
paper clips
wire ties
rubberbands
Or they wont work right.
And aluminum foil to repair blown fuses.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Every pinball machine needs:
Tape
Drywall screws
Wire-nuts
nails
keys
paper clips
wire ties
rubberbands
Or they wont work right.
'Homeless' parts laying in the bottom of the cabinet...clueless where they go. Sometimes true even on a new pin.
Quoted from mbwalker:'Homeless' parts laying in the bottom of the cabinet...clueless where they go. Sometimes true even on a new pin.
Let’s not forget broken plastics.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Every pinball machine needs:
Tape
Drywall screws
Wire-nuts
nails
keys
paper clips
wire ties
rubberbands
Or they wont work right.
WD40
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