just getting to this CV I’ve had standing covered since picking up last year. Thought this was funny
1871943F-753E-4230-B95B-A1D4873A1FC8 (resized).jpeg(Topic ID: 28788)
Nice. Is it a reimport?
What little can be seen of that playfield looks spectacular. Even the magnet core looks minty. Was the game locked in an air conditioned vault for 20 years?
Quoted from PinballGalore:just getting to this CV I’ve had standing covered since picking up last year. Thought this was funny
[quoted image]
Looks like someone went for some 'premier' rubbers
Quoted from phishrace:Nice. Is it a reimport?
What little can be seen of that playfield looks spectacular. Even the magnet core looks minty. Was the game locked in an air conditioned vault for 20 years?
Some areas are better than others but generally it’s in good condition. This game started its life in the UK (importer service sticker on back box with service dates. then Germany (DM slot, German cards on apron) then Israel which is where I found it, and also where I live. 
Wichita, KS
Quoted from bigguybbr:Looks like someone went for some 'premier' rubbers
Looks a rubber belt for a vacuum cleaner
Quoted from PinballGalore:This game started its life in the UK (importer service sticker on back box with service dates. then Germany (DM slot, German cards on apron) then Israel which is where I found it, and also where I live.
Saw a story recently saying soccer is now more popular than hockey in the US, but I had a feeling it wasn't from here. Confirmed.
Quoted from bigguybbr:Looks like someone went for some 'premier' rubbers
This is the way I am used to seeing expansion springs mounted. This type of mounting needs little explanation. A spring with coiled ends that mounts to a "hook" at each end.
Check this one out. The spring was too long and was "stretched" into the needed length. Clever work around, I would say.
Quoted from cottonm4:The spring was too long and was "stretched" into the needed length.
If they'd cut the extra length and made a new ring at the end you probably wouldn't have even noticed it.
Quoted from slochar:If they'd cut the extra length and made a new ring at the end you probably wouldn't have even noticed it.
You are correct.
This is factory. On the HUO Stern Ghostbusters I just brought home. Just like the factory workarounds on my classic Sterns where a gray/black wire was replaced by a purple/ white wire.
"Hey boss, we new out of springs."
Boss: "No, we are not. Use these. Get back to work."
Because I live in AU and postage is killer, I hate doing small orders. I've definitely done that on a machine while I waited for the right spring to come in with another order, and as a debugging step to check that the spring is actually the cause of the fault.
Quoted from eckelpeckel:Hmmm.. something seems off about the wiring in this afm.. pretty sure the masking tape and laughable splicing means.. yes!! an italian hack was here!! XD
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Telephone cable splices. Amazing.
Quoted from cottonm4:Telephone cable splices. Amazing.
That's so when playing the machine is outside and getting rained on, the splices stay dry.
Quoted from cysnake:This was also done on the main harness.....
[quoted image]
And if something isn't working, it is probably the orange wire.
1 week later
Quoted from DCRand:And if something isn't working, it is probably the orange wire.
Big sale on orange wire at "Bubba's used wire Emporium".
Quoted from pinballinreno:Big sale on orange wire at "Bubba's used wire Emporium".
Quoted from girloveswaffles:Kind of like this one:
Reminds me of that orange crap they used to absorb vomit back when I was in school and someone ralphed before they could get to the head.
Just orange everywhere!
Quoted from girloveswaffles:Kind of like this one:[quoted image]
That is awesome. All of that wiring in an attempt to bypass the missing right slingshot coil on Zip-A-Doo......
Quoted from MrBally:That is awesome. All of that wiring in an attempt to bypass the missing right slingshot coil on Zip-A-Doo......
That's nothing. Look at the A 26-1200 coil used for the left flipper. 
Several machines I have came across needing extreme TLC. A Williams Star Trek The Next Generation power board and a Flight 2000 Power Rectifier Board
257467569_10228449490001823_5038981953016308993_n (resized).jpg257636595_10228449491161852_8172469759491947608_n (resized).jpg260775975_10228488230490311_3989630594583976727_n (resized).jpg261104021_10228488229850295_5873933808901189402_n (1) (resized).jpgQuoted from Bmad21:Judge for yourself if my work was a bad hack job.
[quoted image]
Why not solder the connection?
Quoted from bigguybbr:Why not solder the connection?
I was more easier. I tried solder it to the tab, but it did not work.
Here's another.
Quoted from Bmad21:Judge for yourself if my work was a bad hack job.
[quoted image]
Posting your own hack. I like your style.
Quoted from Bmad21:I suck at it.
just a tip ....soldering is like welding ...if the parts and the wire are dirty the solder joint sucks same as welding, if you don't take the time to clean the parts to be soldered you will never be good at it. So on the tab it is a good idea to use a solder sucker to get all the excess old solder off then clean it with alcohol and maybe a wire brush if its really bad then apply solder flux (a necessatiy to get the part to tin) and re-tim the tab. Usually older pinball wire is very hard to get tinned cut the old wire that has solder residue on it off and restrip to get new straight wire ...dip the wire in flux and then tin .....then stick the wire through the hole in the tab and wrap it around with needle nose pliers. Make sure your soldering iron tip is tinned and clean it often so its shiny like chrome then lay it across the tab and the wire at the same time and flow solder into it for approx 5 seconds ....practise and you will get better
Quoted from bigguybbr:Why not solder the connection?
The coin door switches on the new Sterns use crimps that slip onto the tabs like that. But just the coin door switches.
Quoted from the9gman:just a tip ....soldering is like welding ...if the parts and the wire are dirty the solder joint sucks same as welding, if you don't take the time to clean the parts to be soldered you will never be good at it. So on the tab it is a good idea to use a solder sucker to get all the excess old solder off then clean it with alcohol and maybe a wire brush if its really bad then apply solder flux (a necessatiy to get the part to tin) and re-tim the tab. Usually older pinball wire is very hard to get tinned cut the old wire that has solder residue on it off and restrip to get new straight wire ...dip the wire in flux and then tin .....then stick the wire through the hole in the tab and wrap it around with needle nose pliers. Make sure your soldering iron tip is tinned and clean it often so its shiny like chrome then lay it across the tab and the wire at the same time and flow solder into it for approx 5 seconds ....practise and you will get better
And use some solder that has lead in it! Lower melting point than lead-free.
Quoted from cottonm4:The coin door switches on the new Sterns use crimps that slip onto the tabs like that. But just the coin door switches.
…and the start button and light included use crimp lug connectors too.
Quoted from cottonm4:The coin door switches on the new Sterns use crimps that slip onto the tabs like that. But just the coin door switches.
I’ve never seen an EOS switch with a crimp. I’d be wary of one with a bunch of loose strands.
20-30 mins learning rough solder work will pay dividends for many future repairs
Quoted from bigguybbr:I’ve never seen an EOS switch with a crimp. I’d be wary of one with a bunch of loose strands.
20-30 mins learning rough solder work will pay dividends for many future repairs
He did sloppy work on the wiring to the crimp barrel, and I will allow if you have a pinball machine, knowing how to solder and having the equipment to do so is a requirement.
But I'm willing to give this pinside apprentice some slack. The crimp got him up an running and it won't blow the machine up.
Quoted from cottonm4:He did sloppy work on the wiring to the crimp barrel, and I will allow if you have a pinball machine, knowing how to solder and having the equipment to do so is a requirement.
But I'm willing to give this pinside apprentice some slack. The crimp got him up an running and it won't blow the machine up.
It's my first ever machine. documentation concerning the shuffle bowler I have been working on is scarce (albeit a schematic and user manual) what is more of a help though is thinking what may it work.
Tracing the wirring in relation to the 25 cent coin mech and how it works inrelation to the the relays in the sub panel and sub panel to the machine itself.
The coin system wiring and figuring out what in the freak things do is what hindering this machine from running 100%
I did try to solder the wires I just found this solution easy to implement, I did try to solder it to the tab.
Quoted from Bmad21:It's my first ever machine. documentation concerning the shuffle bowler I have been working on is scarce (albeit a schematic and user manual) what is more of a help though is thinking what may it work.
Tracing the wirring in relation to the 25 cent coin mech and how it works inrelation to the the relays in the sub panel and sub panel to the machine itself.
The coin system wiring and figuring out what in the freak things do is what hindering this machine from running 100%
I did try to solder the wires I just found this solution easy to implement, I did try to solder it to the tab.
Someday you will learn how to solder and will learn how switches are constructed and then you can make a proper solder connection if you feel the need to.
Oh yeah, that you are tackling an EM shuffle bowler as your introduction to the world of pinball is commendable. For me, EMs are something I stay away from.
Quoted from mbwalker:And use some solder that has lead in it! Lower melting point than lead-free.
Hell yeah! Preach it brother!
Quoted from cottonm4:Oh yeah, that you are tackling an EM shuffle bowler as your introduction to the world of pinball is commendable. For me, EMs are something I stay away from.
My first pinball machine (and restoration job) was an EM. I personally think they are a good place to start. The schematics are simple, the parts are cheep and plentiful, and you can pick one up for relatively little money.
Quoted from mbwalker:And use some solder that has lead in it! Lower melting point than lead-free.
If you use lead solder, be sure to have proper ventilation!
Quoted from bigguybbr:If you use lead solder, be sure to have proper ventilation!
Good ventilation is needed because the flux in the solder melts and turns to vapor (and therefore becomes airborne). Not because of the lead content.
Lead melts and turns to liquid. You'd need a much higher heat to turn lead into a vapor.
That being said, its more important to keep your work area neat and tidy and don't eat while using lead solder. Your change of ingesting the lead from your fingers is much higher than your chance of breathing it in. And don't rub your eyes.
Quoted from bigguybbr:My first pinball machine (and restoration job) was an EM. I personally think they are a good place to start. The schematics are simple, the parts are cheep and plentiful, and you can pick one up for relatively little money.
I'm a reasonably good technician and mechanic, but I am from the "I need to see it once" camp. I need to stand at the shoulder of an EM tech to make things happen.
Quoted from PghPinballRescue:Good ventilation is needed because the flux in the solder melts and turns to vapor (and therefore becomes airborne). Not because of the lead content.
Lead melts and turns to liquid. You'd need a much higher heat to turn lead into a vapor.
That being said, its more important to keep your work area neat and tidy and don't eat while using lead solder. Your change of ingesting the lead from your fingers is much higher than your chance of breathing it in. And don't rub your eyes.
My aunt used to do stained glass - not just soldering at each joint, but lining the glass with copper foil tape so that the entire joint was soldered, which results in a much nicer-looking bridge between the pieces of glass. She wore a respirator while doing this work. She eventually got very sick with lead poisoning. No telling what exactly the method was that it got into her system, but it bears mentioning that we should at least take common-sense methods when working with lead solder.
I say that, and I'm not exactly "careful" myself, but being completely careless is asking for trouble - it's far from an irrational/alarmist viewpoint.
Richard
1 week later
Quoted from Deleenhe:My new AFM, works (mostly) but some sketchy repairs.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks like a vending machine plug for the coin holder...
Quoted from Deleenhe:My new AFM, works (mostly) but some sketchy repairs.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I'm not familiar with those boards, but did they replace out a bunch of burnt diodes with wire jumpers?
Quoted from bigguybbr:I'm not familiar with those boards, but did they replace out a bunch of burnt diodes with wire jumpers?
Yes, apparently legit and reflected on the board schematic that I downloaded as 0 ohm resistors. Maybe not executed well…
5F863513-06A4-49E0-8C94-68AE69909C73 (resized).jpegQuoted from Deleenhe:Yes, apparently legit and reflected on the board schematic that I downloaded as 0 ohm resistors. Maybe not executed well…
[quoted image]
Cool. I learn something new every day.
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
