(Topic ID: 28788)
Kitchener, ON
Quoted from pinballplusMN:Bad opto? Use a solid state eos switch.
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I like it...
Quoted from Robotworkshop:I guess this is what people do when they run out of fuse clips. Going to strip all that off and put the correct fresh fuse clips on the board. That and replace the TIP that recently shorted....
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I've seen much worse, I'd leave the fuse holder.
Quoted from Irishbastard:I've seen much worse, I'd leave the fuse holder.
I've seen much worse too but this is for my own personal game and since I already had the board out and I have a bunch of really good quality fuse clips they have already been changed out. Fixed some cracked solder connections too! Just going to deflux and wash the board after dinner then get it back in the machine.
I let it slide for a while but it was on the list to correct someday and since I finally had to pull the board today was the day.
So not really or maybe a hack? But if you are going to go through the trouble of taking the pops off of the pf to apply stick on clear pop ring protectors. How much more trouble would it have really been to do the paint touch up first? And of course, putting on a complete ring on all the pops would have maybe been a good idea.
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North Wales, PA
Quoted from Robotworkshop:I guess this is what people do when they run out of fuse clips. Going to strip all that off and put the correct fresh fuse clips on the board. That and replace the TIP that recently shorted....
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I mean...at least they didn't just bridge them with wire?
Gendt
Quoted from Vreuls:Someone has been really busy
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But does it work???
Quoted from Vreuls:Someone has been really busy
Pretty well executed actually. Shame about all that battery puke though.
Quoted from Vreuls:Someone has been really busy
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LOL, I've done this before. Works great!
Quoted from Vreuls:Someone has been really busy
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Could be worse. They could have "fixed" all the connections in the game that way. 
Richard
Not the single worst. But collectively on one game? I particularly like the neatly penned in missing letters where it’s worn to the wood. Oh and the empty middle hole in the lockdown bar. They apparently drilled all three holes with the locking portion backward, then had to turn it around and the holes didn’t line up.
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Quoted from dudah:[quoted image]
I would have never EVER thought of using THREE single AA holders. Never in a million years... It's a VERY literal replacement strategy. (But if your toolbox on route only has single holders and a bunch of alligator clips, its a quick and dirty way to get a machine back in service.)
Quoted from dudah:[quoted image]
Lmao that seems like a “my boss told me to get the batteries off the board so I did” situation
Quoted from Knxwledge:In a Midway Wild Kingdom I bought. Thinking about moving this along because its been sitting for years in my garage as a project. Way past my skill level to unhack this fuckery
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If you got the schematic out you could likely get it squared away in a couple hours.
The hardest part is the colors on the wiring harness fade dramatically over time, so most of it would be really making sure what color wire is what.
Quoted from Knxwledge:Way past my skill level to unhack this fuckery
My kinda challenge! LOL
Quoted from Robotworkshop:One of the worst fuse wiring jobs I’ve ever seen. If you follow the wires you’ll see it.
Luckily the only hacks appear to be with the power and those will all be corrected.
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Appears to be three fuses in parallel?
Quoted from mbwalker:Appears to be three fuses in parallel?
Yep. And they could have separated them all out if they had wanted to. I stripped all that out and have the wiring all cleaned up as original. Just added the two fuses to the inputs of the bridges.
I think the issue they were working with on the GI was all due to a bad lamp socket I found by the flippers. It had an internal short in it (occationally) and I put a new socket there to fix that too.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Yep. And they could have separated them all out if they had wanted to. I stripped all that out and have the wiring all cleaned up as original. Just added the two fuses to the inputs of the bridges.
I think the issue they were working with on the GI was all due to a bad lamp socket I found by the flippers. It had an internal short in it (occationally) and I put a new socket there to fix that too.
Maybe he was thinking "Hey, if one blows, I got 2 more fuses for backups!" LOL
Quoted from mbwalker:Appears to be three fuses in parallel?
On the other hand, if you need a 15 amp fuse and all you have are 5 amp fuses....I guess that would kinda work.
Quoted from alexmogil:Just started examining a System 11 for teardown and...
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It's not the worst but it sure it... interesting.
Aah. The good old spring snake seen in his natural habitat.
Quoted from alexmogil:Just started examining a System 11 for teardown and...
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It's not the worst but it sure it... interesting.
Some stress there.
Quoted from djblouw:So what’s the fuse rating of 18 gauge wire?
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Also, on the same SBM, a switch was installed under the pf. Haven’t figured out what it’s for yet. And it’s not a credit switch, since there is one on the door already.
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You're probably going to have to go into switch test to find out what that goes to.
... as far as the fuse rating of the 18AGW wire:
wtf-boom-o.gif
Also, on the same SBM, a switch was installed under the pf. Haven’t figured out what it’s for yet. And it’s not a credit switch, since there is one on the door already.
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That's factory, it advances the silverball lights on the backglass
Quoted from djblouw:So what’s the fuse rating of 18 gauge wire?
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Also, on the same SBM, a switch was installed under the pf. Haven’t figured out what it’s for yet. And it’s not a credit switch, since there is one on the door already.
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I think that wire is factory also. Probably just harvested from another area of the pin to get things going. It’s a lot like taking a vein from your leg to patch up your heart. Perfectly fine. 
Quoted from ODENONMYSIDE513:Also, on the same SBM, a switch was installed under the pf. Haven’t figured out what it’s for yet. And it’s not a credit switch, since there is one on the door already.
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That's factory, it advances the silverball lights on the backglass
Ah, that’s why it doesn t look like a total hack of an install. Good info!
Quoted from djblouw:Ah, that’s why it does t look like a total hack of an install. Good info!
Elektra has a similar switch too I believe.
Quoted from ODENONMYSIDE513:That's factory, it advances the silverball lights on the backglass
What was the intended purpose of being able to do that with the button?
Quoted from frenchmarky:What was the intended purpose of being able to do that with the button?
Advancing the Carry over feature to entice play
- or -
Screwing the player over by advancing it back to the s
Quoted from djblouw:Also, on the same SBM, a switch was installed under the pf. Haven’t figured out what it’s for yet.
If you press it, someone on the other side of the world dies.
Quoted from slochar:Advancing the Carry over feature to entice play
- or -Screwing the player over by advancing it back to the s
Okay the second one, THAT one I can buy. XD
Lempäälä
Its also the only way to test the lamps are working... if I recall correctly from the last one I worked on.
Quoted from PghPinballRescue:Its also the only way to test the lamps are working... if I recall correctly from the last one I worked on.
That's weird, if they are controlled lamps why wouldn't they just flash on and off with all the rest of the lamps in the lamp test, like EBD's DELUXE lamps do?
Quoted from djblouw:Ah, that’s why it doesn t look like a total hack of an install. Good info!
Sure enough. There it is shown in the SBM manual.
Quoted from frenchmarky:That's weird, if they are controlled lamps why wouldn't they just flash on and off with all the rest of the lamps in the lamp test, like EBD's DELUXE lamps do?
I agree, but I definitely remember something about these lights acting weird when we switched them over to LEDs (aside from the usual mods needed to get LEDs to work in a Bally).
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