Williamsburg, KY
Quoted from ForceFlow:I thought plan B was using a rubber band
I thought plan b was a pill for when your rubber broke not a zip tie
(Topic ID: 28788)
Quoted from jmountjoy111:I thought plan b was a pill for when your rubber broke not a zip tie
If you had the zip tie tight enough 
Wait....never mind....
Quoted from pacmanretro:If you had the zip tie tight enough
Wait....never mind....
Quoted from trumpy:not the WORST hack , but things aren't that expensive . found in a pop bumper, and how to repair bumper mounts . centre would of been CLOSE!! not
[quoted image][quoted image]
Well, the non-rigid lamp socket was actually a good modification that helps the Chinese junk lamps last longer than a day on location. These days LED's are fine though.
The bumper bracket mods are long lasting and a welcome operator tactic to keep the games running.
Here goes another example of the classic long screws to attach the flipper bracket and go through the playfield. As you can see the perfect paired holes above the EB insert and the flipper bat axle. Not pictured too was the kickout saucers both were stuffed with paper napkins cause you wouldn't want to find out why they weren't kicking balls back... not to mention the points as well as their importance to the rule-set.
The price was good so I decided to take it anyway, but normally I'd just walk. Fixing damage to a large solid color panel in the PF is beyond my ability, and has the extra problem that if it isn't a perfect match, really makes the machine look amateur.
IOW. price was good, and I'd driven too far. Got another 400 off for the not reported damage and just paid a grand.
The solution was to embrace the holes. I got little bullet hole stickers and after smoothing the area by hammering the wood flat with a plastic shoe, placed them over the holes, and added a few more so that it looked like the terminator had been sprayed with bullets. CC'd the whole thing, and now, beyond not bothering me, they kind of make me smile.
IMG_0412 (resized).jpegIMG_0599 (resized).jpeg 2 weeks later
Quoted from Skarv:[quoted image][quoted image]
Excellent work!
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Hey, it bothered me.
ok... I'll bite. My electronics kung-fu is weak... that said, I thought a burnt resister was basically a short. How did that piggy back thing add any value to the circuit. Or did the resister completely burn through (open).
I like your more elegant repair.
Thanks,
faz
Quoted from pinball_faz:ok... I'll bite. My electronics kung-fu is weak... that said, I thought a burnt resister was basically a short. How did that piggy back thing add any value to the circuit. Or did the resister completely burn through (open).
I like your more elegant repair.
Thanks,
faz
The original resistor fried and the previous owner removed it but didn’t have the correct value as a replacement. If you combine resistors you can often achieve the correct resistance needed with just some spare parts laying around the shop. There is a nifty formula for doing just that but it looks awful installed on the board. The previous repair was within specs.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:The previous repair was within specs.
Even for required wattage?
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:The original resistor fried and the previous owner removed it but didn’t have the correct value as a replacement. If you combine resistors you can often achieve the correct resist needed with just some spare parts laying around the shop. There is a nifty formula for doing just that but it looks awful installed on the board. The previous repair was within specs.
I wish I had the electronics knowledge to do that kind of repair work. Or to at least understand it.
Quoted from pacmanretro:Even for required wattage?
Amazingly, yes. Both looked to be rated for 5 watts.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:There is a nifty formula for doing just that but it looks awful installed on the board.
Ohm's law
This one is not that bad, Beyond it though I'm lost!
Series_parallel_resistors (resized).png
Quoted from Billc479:Doesn’t lamp cord and 20 gauge wire do the same thing?
Where did my smiley face go?
Lamp cord is mostly 14 or 12 awg, so it actually is better than 20 awg from a current capacity standpoint.
Quoted from robertmee:Lamp cord is mostly 14 or 12 awg, so it actually is better than 20 awg from a current capacity standpoint.
Most lamp cord is actually #18 gauge, larger #16 gauge is available also. https://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical-Wire-Lamp-Wire/N-5yc1vZc575
Raleigh
Quoted from chas10e:Most lamp cord is actually #18 gauge, larger #16 gauge is available also. https://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical-Wire-Lamp-Wire/N-5yc1vZc575
Admittedly, haven't bought it in 30 years. Like everything else, got more expensive and smaller 
Bought some Bally coin doors to restore and was tearing them down for an Evaporust bath. One had a corroding block off plate. Upon further examination I noticed the coin micro switch wiring was cut. I guess the switch or coin mech went bad, and the tech was stuck on how to block off that chute. I'd of just flipped the coin entrance plate around so it was blank, but this custom cut block off plate is a first for me.
DSCN5099 (resized).JPGDSCN5100 (resized).JPGQuoted from tomdrum:I'd of just flipped the coin entrance plate around so it was blank, but this custom cut block off plate is a first for me.
I've seen brushed stainless blank plates in coin doors before, but not a "custom" job like this. Guess that guy couldn't get a hold of one. Or a new microswitch for that matter...
Quoted from Ronnie1114:Who needs a power switch under the game...[quoted image]
Oh dear lord!
Quoted from Ronnie1114:Who needs a power switch under the game...[quoted image]
Way to utalize what you have laying around I guess.
Quoted from Ronnie1114:Who needs a power switch under the game...[quoted image]
No cover plate?
Quoted from Robotworkshop:No cover plate?
By the dirt stain....it looks like it had one at some point.
I had a Blue Chip one time where they'd installed a switch on the front of the machine, below the shooter rod... despite there being a power switch directly below it on the bottom. I asked the seller and they said they knew about the power switch, but didn't feel like bending down to hit it, so they drilled a hole in the front and installed another there 
Quoted from zacaj:I had a Blue Chip one time where they'd installed a switch on the front of the machine, below the shooter rod... despite there being a power switch directly below it on the bottom. I asked the seller and they said they knew about the power switch, but didn't feel like bending down to hit it, so they drilled a hole in the front and installed another there
Quoted from Ronnie1114:Who needs a power switch under the game...[quoted image]
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/doorbell-clubknock-before-entering#post-4163778
Quoted from scottslash:What am I looking at?!?
Not sure what the material is at the end of the shooter rod. Possibly some sort of epoxy. It has some slight give to it (not solid).
Quoted from barakandl:saw this on Facebook from a guy that sells PCBs. I think it is a crazy attempt to use four 6116 RAMs to replace a 6264?[quoted image]
This doesn't below in worst hack: whoever the tech was, they're brilliant!
Quoted from nwpinball:Cheaper than replacing those fuses that keep blowing... what could go wrong? This was on a Star Trek Next Gen I bought as a re-import on a container deal two years ago. It cleaned up nice though!
[quoted image]
I guess it still works as a fuse, like 10 or 20 amps slow-blow .
Zeist
Quoted from Ronnie1114:Who needs a power switch under the game...[quoted image]
That's just criminal, and you have to reach further to get to it than reaching under the game. Idiots abound.
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