(Topic ID: 28788)

Worst hack/repair you ever saw.


By mcclad

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,196 posts
  • 510 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 days ago by JethroP
  • Topic is favorited by 201 Pinsiders

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    There are 2196 posts in this topic. You are on page 42 of 44.
    #2051 5 months ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    I thought plan B was using a rubber band

    I thought plan b was a pill for when your rubber broke not a zip tie

    #2052 5 months ago
    Quoted from jmountjoy111:

    I thought plan b was a pill for when your rubber broke not a zip tie

    If you had the zip tie tight enough
    Wait....never mind....

    #2053 5 months ago
    Quoted from pacmanretro:

    If you had the zip tie tight enough
    Wait....never mind....

    #2054 5 months ago
    Quoted from trumpy:

    not the WORST hack , but things aren't that expensive . found in a pop bumper, and how to repair bumper mounts . centre would of been CLOSE!! not
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    Well, the non-rigid lamp socket was actually a good modification that helps the Chinese junk lamps last longer than a day on location. These days LED's are fine though.
    The bumper bracket mods are long lasting and a welcome operator tactic to keep the games running.

    14
    #2055 5 months ago

    Here goes another example of the classic long screws to attach the flipper bracket and go through the playfield. As you can see the perfect paired holes above the EB insert and the flipper bat axle. Not pictured too was the kickout saucers both were stuffed with paper napkins cause you wouldn't want to find out why they weren't kicking balls back... not to mention the points as well as their importance to the rule-set.

    The price was good so I decided to take it anyway, but normally I'd just walk. Fixing damage to a large solid color panel in the PF is beyond my ability, and has the extra problem that if it isn't a perfect match, really makes the machine look amateur.

    IOW. price was good, and I'd driven too far. Got another 400 off for the not reported damage and just paid a grand.

    The solution was to embrace the holes. I got little bullet hole stickers and after smoothing the area by hammering the wood flat with a plastic shoe, placed them over the holes, and added a few more so that it looked like the terminator had been sprayed with bullets. CC'd the whole thing, and now, beyond not bothering me, they kind of make me smile.

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    2 weeks later
    #2056 5 months ago

    Hey, it bothered me.

    20190509_164841 (resized).jpg
    #2057 5 months ago

    All fixed. I can sleep now.

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    #2058 5 months ago
    Quoted from Skarv:

    [quoted image][quoted image]

    Excellent work!

    #2059 5 months ago
    Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

    Hey, it bothered me.

    ok... I'll bite. My electronics kung-fu is weak... that said, I thought a burnt resister was basically a short. How did that piggy back thing add any value to the circuit. Or did the resister completely burn through (open).

    I like your more elegant repair.

    Thanks,
    faz

    #2060 5 months ago
    Quoted from pinball_faz:

    ok... I'll bite. My electronics kung-fu is weak... that said, I thought a burnt resister was basically a short. How did that piggy back thing add any value to the circuit. Or did the resister completely burn through (open).
    I like your more elegant repair.
    Thanks,
    faz

    The original resistor fried and the previous owner removed it but didn’t have the correct value as a replacement. If you combine resistors you can often achieve the correct resistance needed with just some spare parts laying around the shop. There is a nifty formula for doing just that but it looks awful installed on the board. The previous repair was within specs.

    #2061 5 months ago
    Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

    The previous repair was within specs.

    Even for required wattage?

    #2062 5 months ago
    Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

    The original resistor fried and the previous owner removed it but didn’t have the correct value as a replacement. If you combine resistors you can often achieve the correct resist needed with just some spare parts laying around the shop. There is a nifty formula for doing just that but it looks awful installed on the board. The previous repair was within specs.

    I wish I had the electronics knowledge to do that kind of repair work. Or to at least understand it.

    #2063 5 months ago
    Quoted from pacmanretro:

    Even for required wattage?

    Amazingly, yes. Both looked to be rated for 5 watts.

    #2064 5 months ago
    Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

    There is a nifty formula for doing just that but it looks awful installed on the board.

    Ohm's law

    This one is not that bad, Beyond it though I'm lost!
    Series_parallel_resistors (resized).png

    #2065 5 months ago

    Definately a hazard. Wires undergauged and brittle from heat. I refused to work on the game without correcting this issue first for the customer.Too much of a liability.

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    #2066 5 months ago

    Doesn’t lamp cord and 20 gauge wire do the same thing?

    Where did my smiley face go?

    #2067 5 months ago
    Quoted from Billc479:

    Doesn’t lamp cord and 20 gauge wire do the same thing?
    Where did my smiley face go?

    Lamp cord is mostly 14 or 12 awg, so it actually is better than 20 awg from a current capacity standpoint.

    #2068 5 months ago
    Quoted from robertmee:

    Lamp cord is mostly 14 or 12 awg, so it actually is better than 20 awg from a current capacity standpoint.

    Most lamp cord is actually #18 gauge, larger #16 gauge is available also. https://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical-Wire-Lamp-Wire/N-5yc1vZc575

    #2069 5 months ago

    Guys - I was being sarcastic about whomever did the hack.

    #2070 5 months ago
    Quoted from Billc479:

    Guys - I was being sarcastic about whomever did the hack.

    its sad when you have to explain the joke

    #2071 4 months ago
    Quoted from chas10e:

    Most lamp cord is actually #18 gauge, larger #16 gauge is available also. https://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical-Wire-Lamp-Wire/N-5yc1vZc575

    Admittedly, haven't bought it in 30 years. Like everything else, got more expensive and smaller

    #2072 4 months ago

    Bought some Bally coin doors to restore and was tearing them down for an Evaporust bath. One had a corroding block off plate. Upon further examination I noticed the coin micro switch wiring was cut. I guess the switch or coin mech went bad, and the tech was stuck on how to block off that chute. I'd of just flipped the coin entrance plate around so it was blank, but this custom cut block off plate is a first for me.

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    #2073 4 months ago
    Quoted from tomdrum:

    I'd of just flipped the coin entrance plate around so it was blank, but this custom cut block off plate is a first for me.

    I've seen brushed stainless blank plates in coin doors before, but not a "custom" job like this. Guess that guy couldn't get a hold of one. Or a new microswitch for that matter...

    23
    #2074 4 months ago

    Who needs a power switch under the game...

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    #2075 4 months ago
    Quoted from Ronnie1114:

    Who needs a power switch under the game...[quoted image]

    Oh dear lord!

    #2076 4 months ago

    At least mount so as to look like a pickup !

    Good grief!!

    #2077 4 months ago
    Quoted from Ronnie1114:

    Who needs a power switch under the game...[quoted image]

    Way to utalize what you have laying around I guess.

    #2078 4 months ago
    Quoted from Ronnie1114:

    Who needs a power switch under the game...[quoted image]

    No cover plate?

    #2079 4 months ago

    By the dirt stain....it looks like it had one at some point.

    #2080 4 months ago

    I had a Blue Chip one time where they'd installed a switch on the front of the machine, below the shooter rod... despite there being a power switch directly below it on the bottom. I asked the seller and they said they knew about the power switch, but didn't feel like bending down to hit it, so they drilled a hole in the front and installed another there

    #2081 4 months ago
    Quoted from zacaj:

    I had a Blue Chip one time where they'd installed a switch on the front of the machine, below the shooter rod... despite there being a power switch directly below it on the bottom. I asked the seller and they said they knew about the power switch, but didn't feel like bending down to hit it, so they drilled a hole in the front and installed another there

    #2083 4 months ago
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    #2084 4 months ago

    What am I looking at?!?

    #2085 4 months ago

    Why that is the newest in shooter tip tech of course.

    Looks like electrical tape and beeswax.

    #2086 4 months ago

    Wish I still had the pic - a sliced up door hinge used for the drop target reset piece in a Blackout.

    #2087 4 months ago
    Quoted from scottslash:

    What am I looking at?!?

    Not sure what the material is at the end of the shooter rod. Possibly some sort of epoxy. It has some slight give to it (not solid).

    #2088 4 months ago

    Shooter rubber with a reservoir tip?

    #2089 4 months ago
    Quoted from Enaud:

    Shooter rubber with a reservoir tip?

    Ribbed for my pleasure.

    #2090 4 months ago

    Freeplay set up on a ms pacman service call yesterday.

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    #2091 4 months ago
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    23
    #2092 4 months ago

    saw this on Facebook from a guy that sells PCBs. I think it is a crazy attempt to use four 6116 RAMs to replace a 6264?

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    #2093 4 months ago
    Quoted from barakandl:

    saw this on Facebook from a guy that sells PCBs. I think it is a crazy attempt to use four 6116 RAMs to replace a 6264?[quoted image]

    This doesn't below in worst hack: whoever the tech was, they're brilliant!

    #2094 4 months ago

    Cheaper than replacing those fuses that keep blowing... what could go wrong? This was on a Star Trek Next Gen I bought as a re-import on a container deal two years ago. It cleaned up nice though!
    1-fuse (resized).jpg

    #2095 4 months ago

    From the same pin. This is, uh, an interesting way to replace burnt connectors... hack in one, solder a few wires to the pins, there's even a wire soldered to the back of the board because it looks like the connector melted off. Amazingly the board still worked fine.
    1-same pin (resized).jpg

    #2096 4 months ago
    Quoted from nwpinball:

    Cheaper than replacing those fuses that keep blowing... what could go wrong? This was on a Star Trek Next Gen I bought as a re-import on a container deal two years ago. It cleaned up nice though!
    [quoted image]

    I guess it still works as a fuse, like 10 or 20 amps slow-blow .

    16
    #2097 4 months ago

    Take a look at this heart warming quality repair on a power cord from a Black Rose I am currently working on...

    WP_20190610_15_07_03_Rich (resized).jpg

    #2098 4 months ago
    Quoted from Ronnie1114:

    Who needs a power switch under the game...[quoted image]

    That's just criminal, and you have to reach further to get to it than reaching under the game. Idiots abound.

    #2099 4 months ago

    A wonderfully redesigned line filter/junction box... or lack thereof.
    Photo Sep 29, 10 32 00 AM (resized).jpg

    11
    #2100 4 months ago

    My eyes!!!

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    There are 2196 posts in this topic. You are on page 42 of 44.

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