(Topic ID: 28788)

Worst hack/repair you ever saw.


By mcclad

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,099 posts
  • 497 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by Soulrider911
  • Topic is favorited by 188 Pinsiders

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    There are 2099 posts in this topic. You are on page 42 of 42.
    #2051 44 days ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    I thought plan B was using a rubber band

    I thought plan b was a pill for when your rubber broke not a zip tie

    #2052 44 days ago
    Quoted from jmountjoy111:

    I thought plan b was a pill for when your rubber broke not a zip tie

    If you had the zip tie tight enough
    Wait....never mind....

    #2053 44 days ago
    Quoted from pacmanretro:

    If you had the zip tie tight enough
    Wait....never mind....

    #2054 44 days ago
    Quoted from trumpy:

    not the WORST hack , but things aren't that expensive . found in a pop bumper, and how to repair bumper mounts . centre would of been CLOSE!! not
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    Well, the non-rigid lamp socket was actually a good modification that helps the Chinese junk lamps last longer than a day on location. These days LED's are fine though.
    The bumper bracket mods are long lasting and a welcome operator tactic to keep the games running.

    13
    #2055 41 days ago

    Here goes another example of the classic long screws to attach the flipper bracket and go through the playfield. As you can see the perfect paired holes above the EB insert and the flipper bat axle. Not pictured too was the kickout saucers both were stuffed with paper napkins cause you wouldn't want to find out why they weren't kicking balls back... not to mention the points as well as their importance to the rule-set.

    The price was good so I decided to take it anyway, but normally I'd just walk. Fixing damage to a large solid color panel in the PF is beyond my ability, and has the extra problem that if it isn't a perfect match, really makes the machine look amateur.

    IOW. price was good, and I'd driven too far. Got another 400 off for the not reported damage and just paid a grand.

    The solution was to embrace the holes. I got little bullet hole stickers and after smoothing the area by hammering the wood flat with a plastic shoe, placed them over the holes, and added a few more so that it looked like the terminator had been sprayed with bullets. CC'd the whole thing, and now, beyond not bothering me, they kind of make me smile.

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    2 weeks later
    #2056 26 days ago

    Hey, it bothered me.

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    #2057 26 days ago

    All fixed. I can sleep now.

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    #2058 26 days ago
    Quoted from Skarv:

    [quoted image][quoted image]

    Excellent work!

    #2059 26 days ago
    Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

    Hey, it bothered me.

    ok... I'll bite. My electronics kung-fu is weak... that said, I thought a burnt resister was basically a short. How did that piggy back thing add any value to the circuit. Or did the resister completely burn through (open).

    I like your more elegant repair.

    Thanks,
    faz

    #2060 25 days ago
    Quoted from pinball_faz:

    ok... I'll bite. My electronics kung-fu is weak... that said, I thought a burnt resister was basically a short. How did that piggy back thing add any value to the circuit. Or did the resister completely burn through (open).
    I like your more elegant repair.
    Thanks,
    faz

    The original resistor fried and the previous owner removed it but didn’t have the correct value as a replacement. If you combine resistors you can often achieve the correct resistance needed with just some spare parts laying around the shop. There is a nifty formula for doing just that but it looks awful installed on the board. The previous repair was within specs.

    #2061 25 days ago
    Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

    The previous repair was within specs.

    Even for required wattage?

    #2062 25 days ago
    Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

    The original resistor fried and the previous owner removed it but didn’t have the correct value as a replacement. If you combine resistors you can often achieve the correct resist needed with just some spare parts laying around the shop. There is a nifty formula for doing just that but it looks awful installed on the board. The previous repair was within specs.

    I wish I had the electronics knowledge to do that kind of repair work. Or to at least understand it.

    #2063 25 days ago
    Quoted from pacmanretro:

    Even for required wattage?

    Amazingly, yes. Both looked to be rated for 5 watts.

    #2064 25 days ago
    Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

    There is a nifty formula for doing just that but it looks awful installed on the board.

    Ohm's law

    This one is not that bad, Beyond it though I'm lost!
    Series_parallel_resistors (resized).png

    #2065 25 days ago

    Definately a hazard. Wires undergauged and brittle from heat. I refused to work on the game without correcting this issue first for the customer.Too much of a liability.

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    #2066 25 days ago

    Doesn’t lamp cord and 20 gauge wire do the same thing?

    Where did my smiley face go?

    #2067 25 days ago
    Quoted from Billc479:

    Doesn’t lamp cord and 20 gauge wire do the same thing?
    Where did my smiley face go?

    Lamp cord is mostly 14 or 12 awg, so it actually is better than 20 awg from a current capacity standpoint.

    #2068 25 days ago
    Quoted from robertmee:

    Lamp cord is mostly 14 or 12 awg, so it actually is better than 20 awg from a current capacity standpoint.

    Most lamp cord is actually #18 gauge, larger #16 gauge is available also. https://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical-Wire-Lamp-Wire/N-5yc1vZc575

    #2069 25 days ago

    Guys - I was being sarcastic about whomever did the hack.

    #2070 25 days ago
    Quoted from Billc479:

    Guys - I was being sarcastic about whomever did the hack.

    its sad when you have to explain the joke

    #2071 25 days ago
    Quoted from chas10e:

    Most lamp cord is actually #18 gauge, larger #16 gauge is available also. https://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical-Wire-Lamp-Wire/N-5yc1vZc575

    Admittedly, haven't bought it in 30 years. Like everything else, got more expensive and smaller

    #2072 19 days ago

    Bought some Bally coin doors to restore and was tearing them down for an Evaporust bath. One had a corroding block off plate. Upon further examination I noticed the coin micro switch wiring was cut. I guess the switch or coin mech went bad, and the tech was stuck on how to block off that chute. I'd of just flipped the coin entrance plate around so it was blank, but this custom cut block off plate is a first for me.

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    #2073 19 days ago
    Quoted from tomdrum:

    I'd of just flipped the coin entrance plate around so it was blank, but this custom cut block off plate is a first for me.

    I've seen brushed stainless blank plates in coin doors before, but not a "custom" job like this. Guess that guy couldn't get a hold of one. Or a new microswitch for that matter...

    18
    #2074 19 days ago

    Who needs a power switch under the game...

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    #2075 19 days ago
    Quoted from Ronnie1114:

    Who needs a power switch under the game...[quoted image]

    Oh dear lord!

    #2076 19 days ago

    At least mount so as to look like a pickup !

    Good grief!!

    #2077 19 days ago
    Quoted from Ronnie1114:

    Who needs a power switch under the game...[quoted image]

    Way to utalize what you have laying around I guess.

    #2078 19 days ago
    Quoted from Ronnie1114:

    Who needs a power switch under the game...[quoted image]

    No cover plate?

    #2079 19 days ago

    By the dirt stain....it looks like it had one at some point.

    #2080 19 days ago

    I had a Blue Chip one time where they'd installed a switch on the front of the machine, below the shooter rod... despite there being a power switch directly below it on the bottom. I asked the seller and they said they knew about the power switch, but didn't feel like bending down to hit it, so they drilled a hole in the front and installed another there

    #2081 18 days ago
    Quoted from zacaj:

    I had a Blue Chip one time where they'd installed a switch on the front of the machine, below the shooter rod... despite there being a power switch directly below it on the bottom. I asked the seller and they said they knew about the power switch, but didn't feel like bending down to hit it, so they drilled a hole in the front and installed another there

    #2083 18 days ago
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    #2084 18 days ago

    What am I looking at?!?

    #2085 18 days ago

    Why that is the newest in shooter tip tech of course.

    Looks like electrical tape and beeswax.

    #2086 18 days ago

    Wish I still had the pic - a sliced up door hinge used for the drop target reset piece in a Blackout.

    #2087 17 days ago
    Quoted from scottslash:

    What am I looking at?!?

    Not sure what the material is at the end of the shooter rod. Possibly some sort of epoxy. It has some slight give to it (not solid).

    #2088 15 days ago

    Shooter rubber with a reservoir tip?

    #2089 15 days ago
    Quoted from Enaud:

    Shooter rubber with a reservoir tip?

    Ribbed for my pleasure.

    #2090 13 days ago

    Freeplay set up on a ms pacman service call yesterday.

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    #2091 9 days ago
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    18
    #2092 9 days ago

    saw this on Facebook from a guy that sells PCBs. I think it is a crazy attempt to use four 6116 RAMs to replace a 6264?

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    #2093 9 days ago
    Quoted from barakandl:

    saw this on Facebook from a guy that sells PCBs. I think it is a crazy attempt to use four 6116 RAMs to replace a 6264?[quoted image]

    This doesn't below in worst hack: whoever the tech was, they're brilliant!

    #2094 8 days ago

    Cheaper than replacing those fuses that keep blowing... what could go wrong? This was on a Star Trek Next Gen I bought as a re-import on a container deal two years ago. It cleaned up nice though!
    1-fuse (resized).jpg

    #2095 8 days ago

    From the same pin. This is, uh, an interesting way to replace burnt connectors... hack in one, solder a few wires to the pins, there's even a wire soldered to the back of the board because it looks like the connector melted off. Amazingly the board still worked fine.
    1-same pin (resized).jpg

    #2096 8 days ago
    Quoted from nwpinball:

    Cheaper than replacing those fuses that keep blowing... what could go wrong? This was on a Star Trek Next Gen I bought as a re-import on a container deal two years ago. It cleaned up nice though!
    [quoted image]

    I guess it still works as a fuse, like 10 or 20 amps slow-blow .

    12
    #2097 6 days ago

    Take a look at this heart warming quality repair on a power cord from a Black Rose I am currently working on...

    WP_20190610_15_07_03_Rich (resized).jpg

    #2098 5 days ago
    Quoted from Ronnie1114:

    Who needs a power switch under the game...[quoted image]

    That's just criminal, and you have to reach further to get to it than reaching under the game. Idiots abound.

    #2099 5 days ago

    A wonderfully redesigned line filter/junction box... or lack thereof.
    Photo Sep 29, 10 32 00 AM (resized).jpg

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    There are 2099 posts in this topic. You are on page 42 of 42.

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