(Topic ID: 28788)
Sana'a
Quoted from vid1900:Sure, I can weld.
But I can't grind......
That's not welding! That's something entirely different, although a welding machine was tragically involved.
I'm really digging the flying chicken substitute for the dancing Martian.
Richard
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Well, I suppose it depends just on how much time I wanted to kill. Since that board isn't particularly rare I don't think I am going to mess with it. I'll focus on more important projects for now. If I did need that board then I would probably use the wirewrap wire to bend up new traces like I did on this WPC board. It had a small hole (filled with epoxy) in the board where the three green jumpers are. All the jumpers that I made are on the component side of the board.
I've worked on boards with the rats nest of wires dangling off the back and if I ever get a machine like that then I'll redo the work and make it more like the attached picture.
GTFOH with that nice work. You're stinking up the hack thread. 
Only repair pictures showing birds nest jumper wires...man, I wish I could find that set of WPC boards I had that came back from Coin Service Tech with a mile of birds nest on them. Lord knows what happened to those boards to deserve that treatment; they came in a beat up old FH I had picked up many years ago. I remember selling the boards as "mostly working, with glitches" on eBay, with full disclosure pics of the beautiful repair job...
Quoted from Kneissl:What's happening to this thread!? That looks like a sweet repair job, I'm here for the total shit show not clean work.
Right?! 
Richard
Quoted from Kneissl:What's happening to this thread!? That looks like a sweet repair job, I'm here for the total shit show not clean work.
Sorry, I'll just keep to the before pictures in this thread....
We can resume the normal posting again...
Wilcox, PA
Quoted from GaryMartin:When you buy bar pins.....
I saw and played that AFM over the years and it continued to amaze me that it still played relatively well. I can't speak to when Gary picked it up in the condition shown as it had been a couple years prior that I had played it last.
It was in that same single owner establishment/location its entire life before Gary intervened and obviously got the snot played out of it and probably paid for itself several times over.
Quoted from HD_Fatboy:Well, I think it was nice to see the correct way to do the repair . It was not that big a deal, one pic...
Take it easy. It was obvious both of us were joking.
Richard
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:At least they waxed it.
LOL! Who has time to clean it before waxing?
I for one wonder if the weld was executed without taking the part out of the game! That’s skill, just sayin. Sometimes you need to sit back and consider ALL the options to truly appreciate the work displayed.
1 week later
2 weeks later
Quoted from Skarv:Back to what this thread is about.... Creative use of incredibly bad habits (or lack of proper parts) to make a pinball machine work. GI at its best... Diode's fried, connectors hard wired sort of...:
Well at least they sort of did it neatly. It probably would have been less work to just fix it properly.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:It probably would have been less work to just fix it properly.
Yeah that is way to much time and effort to F things up like that. 
Can't unsee!!! 
Not a worst, but found this in my Big Hurt today when I brought it home. Bypassed the factory 5vdc power supply with an arcade switcher that never shuts off, as long as the game is plugged in. Just set the game up about an hour ago, so haven't traced where the OTHER extra AC power cord goes yet.
Quoted from HHaase:so haven't traced where the OTHER extra AC power cord goes yet.
Does it have a bill acceptor?
ahhhh. That’s it actually. No acceptor mounted but that other ac wire does run all the way around to power one.
Bogotá
Quoted from Billc479:Haggy38 - So did it work? If it did, interesting hack.
Hahahahaha it actually works, tip36c was short and D1 diode, just clean the board and replaced with new tip36C, both flippers works now...... Ahhhhh operators magic!!!
Gustavo
Quoted from igo4rams:Can anyone tell me what this extra lock was for? Key switch for on/off or credits? Don’t see signs of extra wires but do see two screw holes under the lock on the inside.
That round label looks a lot like one on my Gamatron, it says something about some electronic security lock, though I didn't see anything on the inside related to it. I'll try to grab a pic tonight for comparison
Quoted from igo4rams:Can anyone tell me what this extra lock was for? Key switch for on/off or credits? Don’t see signs of extra wires but do see two screw holes under the lock on the inside.
Believe they were used to add credits (think service credits without opening the door). Obviously the rest of the stuff is not present in your game.
Quoted from flynnibus:Believe they were used to add credits (think service credits without opening the door). Obviously the rest of the stuff is not present in your game.
I've seen that on skee ball machines, but that would be the first time I've seen something like that on a pin.
Quoted from zacaj:That round label looks a lot like one on my Gamatron, it says something about some electronic security lock, though I didn't see anything on the inside related to it. I'll try to grab a pic tonight for comparison
15278095452391294153532 (resized).jpgYes, that looks like the sticker. Interesting? So not for credits! Wonder how and why it was on the game/s?
Quoted from igo4rams:Yes, that looks like the sticker. Interesting? So not for credits! Wonder how and why it was on the game/s?
Maybe there's a second switch that would detect when the coin door opened, and if it was opened without turning off the alarm key, it'd go off? And the OP had matching keys on their coin doors so installed the lock disable elsewhere or something?
Quoted from zacaj:Maybe there's a second switch that would detect when the coin door opened, and if it was opened without turning off the alarm key, it'd go off? And the OP had matching keys on their coin doors so installed the lock disable elsewhere or something?
Yes. Powered by a lantern battery. If coin door was pried open, the alarm would latch on. Prety loud bugger.
1 week later
Quoted from igo4rams:Not the worst but, really why?
That is easy... On location the weak-link with Bally games was the bridge rectifiers.
Beef them up, no more problems with blown lamp fuses and the ball not kicking out.
e.g. Eight Ball Deluxe.
Your welcome.
Quoted from vec-tor:That is easy... On location the weak-link with Bally games was the bridge rectifiers.
Beef them up, no more problems with blown lamp fuses and the ball not kicking out.
e.g. Eight Ball Deluxe.
Your welcome.
I don't understand. The bridges in the picture have their outputs connected to themselves:
pasted_image (resized).png
So the circuit looks like this, but with no load?
pasted_image (resized).png
Quoted from ajfclark:So the circuit looks like this, but with no load?
No load??? try the 7.5 Dc that feeds the lamp circuity. You know the blue solid wire.
Back in the day, you did what ever you could do to keep the games running 24 hrs a day.
Quoted from vec-tor:No load??? try the 7.5 Dc that feeds the lamp circuity. You know the blue solid wire.
Back in the day, you did what ever you could do to keep the games running 24 hrs a day.
My reference to "no load" was in relation to the circuit diagram.
I see no blue wire in the picture of the bridges:
pasted_image (resized).png
I see a black wire going to the + terminal of the bridge. A brown wire to the - terminal of the bridge. There's then a jumper from between the two AC terminals.
eg. the circuit appears to be:
Untitled (resized).png
Am I missing something?
Quoted from ajfclark:I see no blue wire in the picture of the bridges:
Not on the "bridge".....
connectors on power supply pc board.
Playfield J1 pin 5 = color [20] = blue.
Backbox J3 pin 11 = color [20] = blue
From your pictures... the output of the wire lead bridge is cut to feed into the external bridge.
It is like having a big fat diode on the output of the main bridge that then feeds back into the old
circuitry. I wired mine in parallel to the bridge on top, so it is like doubling up on the diodes to the bridge.
What you have is a wannabe hack, not that good. I hate when people cutup circuit boards.
Quoted from vec-tor:Not on the "bridge".....
connectors on power supply pc board.
Playfield J1 pin 5 = color [20] = blue.
Backbox J3 pin 11 = color [20] = blue
From your pictures... the output of the wire lead bridge is cut to feed into the external bridge.
It is like having a big fat diode on the output of the main bridge that then feeds back into the old
circuitry. I wired mine in parallel to the bridge on top, so it is like doubling up on the diodes to the bridge.
What you have is a wannabe hack, not that good. I hate when people cutup circuit boards.
They aren't my pictures, it's not my machine and I don't have the board to look at, I'm just trying to understand what they've done. I've looked at it again along with your comments, and I think they are just using the bridge on the left as a big diode on the + output of the existing bridge, correct?
Quoted from dothedoo:Although, why you'd do that with the switched illumination is beyond me. GI is what this was normally done for back then.
Answer: Bally's Eight Ball Deluxe. The MOC 3011 is very "sensitive" 
to any AC repel on the
Switched Illumination Buss.
As for the GI, true, true, true.
When I worked for a route operator, our Centaur's and EBD's (we had several of them) were burning out the recently introduced to pinball 555 lamps like crazy on the controlled lamp circuits.
Eventually, I called the Bally service line to discuss and they sent me a service bulletin with the mod that IIRC mentioned it cut the voltage by 1.2 volts to prolong lamp life.
Quoted from zacaj:So they're just using the bridges as a double inoine diode to drop the voltage a bit?
Yep. High current with simple heat sink capability. Stud rectifier would have to be isolated from the cabinet ground straps.
1 week later
Halifax, NS
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